Kaokoveld Wilderness, Namibia

The Kaokoveld Wilderness Namibia supports the only population of desert-dwelling elephants in the world.

Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoilt gem in the purest sense.

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World Watch Advisory 03/17/04 04:54 GMT
Authorities warn March 16 2004 that serious floods are likely in northern Namibia in the coming weeks. Namibian Department of Water Affairs officials March 16 warned that impending floods in the Caprivi Strip in northern Namibia are likely going to exceed those seen in 2003 - which was described as a major disaster. Anticipate significant disruptions including road closures in this region in the coming weeks.

Officials have been reporting rising river levels in the Zambezi and Kavango rivers since mid-January. The water level in the Zambezi River March 14 was measured to be at least 1.6 meters higher than last year's level taken at the same time. Authorities estimate that additional rains in southern Angola are likely to push the levels well beyond those experienced in 2003 when floods submerged large parts of the Caprivi Strip and caused serious population displacements. Fears are even expressed that Katima Mulilo - a major town in the Caprivi Strip - may be flooded. Lake Liambezi in southern Caprivi has already begun flooding. Significant flooding may impact the major east-west road running through the Strip connecting Namibia with Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Expect disruptions in road travel and public services, including power outages; allow additional time to reach destinations. Consider postponing road travel to and through affected areas. If travel is unavoidable, carry plenty of food and water, and a radio with spare batteries. A personal satellite locator is also recommended. Avoid driving through water on roadways, as it could cause the vehicle's engine to stall. Do not attempt to move a stalled vehicle; abandon it and immediately move to higher ground.

As always in Namibia, drink bottled water only and use bottled water when brushing your teeth. Flooded conditions may lead to health risks and diseases such as malaria. Monitor media reports for local impact and follow the guidance of local authorities.

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The Kaokoveld in north-western Namibia is one of the most inhospitable corners of Africa - a 95 000-square-kilometre wilderness of rock, plains and shifting dunes that has been in the making for more than 2 000-million years. Yet the ancient and seemingly barren landscape supports an extraordinary variety of animals, far more than the reptiles and small mammals one might expect as having adapted to surviving the desert.

Unlikely as it may seem, the Kaokoveld is even home to the African elephant. These great beasts form the only population of desert-dwelling elephants in the world, and their time-worn paths are testimony to the fact that they have lived here for hundreds, perhaps even thousands, of years.

The elephants are not alone among the big game animals, as the western subspecies of the black rhinoceros Diceros bicornis bicornis is also found here. Together with the Etosha National Park, the Kaokoveld is home to 98 per cent of the world population of this subspecies. With a home range of up to 2 000 square kilometres, in some areas the rhino has to make a round trip of 54 kilometres to obtain water, so its diet includes usually unpalatable but moisture-storing plants such as the Welwitschia mirabilis and the gifboom Euphorbia virosa, with its extremely toxic milky latex and vicious spines.

Giraffe, too, occur here, but they seem weirdly out of place against the backdrop of a treeless desert plain and rugged mountains. More expected are the herds of gemsbok and springbok, constantly on the move in search of grazing, as are the rare black-faced impala - endemic to north-western Namibia and south-western Angola - Hartmann's mountain zebra, Damara dik-dik and the Kaokoveld rock dassie.

Birdlife includes two species that reach the southern limit of their distribution in Africa along the Kunene River - the Cinderella waxbill and the rufous-tailed palm thrush - but among the other noteworthy species are the bare-cheeked babbler, Hartlaub's francolin, Monteiro's hornbill, rockrunner and the white-tailed shrike.

For most of the year the landscape is devoid of vegetation, but after the occasional rains the plains are soon transformed into lush meadows of waving grasslands. In fact, the wealth of plants endemic to the Kaokoveld and south-western Angola is often overlooked.

The Kaokoveld's largely unspoiled wilderness atmosphere is the chief attraction for many of its visitors. What is perceived as wilderness to some, however, is hearth to others. For centuries Kaokoland has been home to the Himba people who live in harmony with their harsh environment. Dotting the landscape are their distinctive beehive-shaped huts, built from mopane saplings covered with a mixture of clay and cattle dung. Tall of stature and with striking features, the men remind one of the Masai of East Africa while the women, with their gleaming, ochre-coloured bodies, are equally handsome. Despite the intrusion of western culture, these Herero-speaking nomadic pastoralists continue their traditional way of life.

But time is running out for the Kaokoveld. It is a wilderness under siege, threatened by uncontrolled tourism and developments which could change the face of its primeval landscape forever. Once part of the largest conservation area in the world, the Kaokoveld section of the 99 526-square-kilometre Game Reserve Number 2 was deproclaimed in 1970 to make way for the homelands of Kaokoland and Damaraland. Various attempts to give conservation status to parts of Damaraland and Kaokoland have failed; the most recent was in 1993 when the Namibian Cabinet turned down a proposal for a game park in western Kaokoland - despite the fact that the Kaoko Council of Headmen had agreed to the proclamation of the park which would not affect the rights of the inhabitants.
When bands of poachers moved into the area during the late 1970s and ruthlessly mowed down the black rhinos and elephants, the then Directorate of Nature Conservation did little to stop the wanton destruction. By early 1983 black rhinos had virtually been exterminated in Kaokoland and their numbers in Damaraland were severely reduced. Between 1980 and 1983 more than 100 elephant carcasses with obvious signs of poaching were located north of the Hoanib River. Were it not for a handful of dedicated conservationists, notably Garth Owen-Smith, project leader of the Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation Project, and Blythe Loutit and the late Ina Britz of the Namibia Wildlife Trust (forerunner of the Save the Rhino Trust), the Kaokoveld's wildlife would have been wiped out. With the financial assistance of the Endangered Wildlife Trust, the Southern African Nature Foundation (now WWF South Africa) and other non-governmental organizations, a system of community game guards was introduced and by mid-1983 poaching had been brought under control.

The plight of the wildlife enjoyed widespread publicity in campaigns to raise money, and it was not surprising that large numbers of people were keen to explore the Kaokoveld when it became accessible shortly before Namibia's independence. Safari operators, eager to lure tourists to Africa's last wildernesses, added the Kaokoveld to their itineraries, resulting in ever-increasing numbers of visitors.

However, in the absence of any control measures, it was inevitable that problems would arise. Koos Verwey of Kaokohimba Safaris has seen a steady deterioration in the environment during the seven years he has been conducting safaris in the area. 'Tracks blazed by four-wheel-drive motorists who are either ignorant or simply could not care less, have proliferated,' he says. 'In 1989 there was only one road in the Hartmann's Valley. Nowadays there is a network of roads.'

'Another problem is the absence of designated camping facilities,' says Verwey, pointing out that there are only seven such sites in the entire Kaokoveld. 'As a result, people set up camp near fountains where animals come to drink - or near villages,' he explains, adding that there has been a steady increase in littering.

Realizing the need to provide facilities if the area was to retain its unique character, Verwey has developed campsites at Epupa and Otjinhungwa in the Marienfluss. Both projects have the support of the local communities who receive a percentage of the gross income.

But it is not only the environment that is being degraded. No less important are the negative effects tourism is having on the Himba people. 'Ignorance about and blatant disregard of Himba culture and value systems often result in offensive behaviour on the part of tourists,' says Garth Owen-Smith, adding that this has resulted in resentment towards tourists and an undignified situation in some communities. 'Tourists do not realize that they are invading other people's land when they set up camp and use scarce resources such as firewood and water without asking permission. It is, therefore, not surprising that some Himba have adopted an attitude of extracting what they can from tourists, creating the perception that they are beggars.'

In sharp contrast to this situation is the community of Purros where Owen-Smith and anthropologist Margaret Jacobsohn were instrumental in setting up a community tourism project, comprising a few shady campsites, each with a shower and flush toilet. Visitors can take guided walks to learn more about the uses of various plants, or a guided drive to look for elephants and rhino. 'Since the community derives direct benefit from tourism - such as campsite and guide fees as well as income from the sale of curios - there is no need to beg from tourists,' says Owen-Smith.

Two commendable tourism initiatives by private enterprise are Etendeka Mountain Camp and Damaraland Camp. Etendeka paid N$40 000 in voluntary bed levies to communities adjoining Etendeka's concession area in November 1996. Desert-dwelling rhino and elephant, as well as springbok, gemsbok, kudu and Hartmann's mountain zebra, occur in the area seasonally, but Liebenberg is quick to point out that visitors should regard game as a bonus. As a result, the main focus of this tented camp is on the smaller creatures, plants and magnificent scenery. Activities include guided nature walks and drives.

Damaraland Camp, north of the Huab River, was established by Wilderness Safaris Namibia in conjunction with the local community, which will receive 10 per cent of gross turnover. After 10 years, the community trust will acquire 20 per cent of the shareholding each year until it is wholly owned by the community. The luxury tented camp comprises eight tents with en suite facilities, a lounge/dining area and a pool. Guided nature walks and drives provide opportunities to spot the game occurring in the area - desert elephant and rhino, as well as springbok, gemsbok, kudu and Hartmann's mountain zebra.

The status of the Kaokoveld as one of Africa's last remaining wilderness areas is, however, also being threatened by two major development projects. If the planned Epupa hydro-electric scheme goes ahead, it will have far-reaching socio-cultural effects on the Himba people. Also under investigation is the possibility of a port at Möwe Bay in the Skeleton Coast Park, which lies some 425 kilometres north of Swakopmund. Both projects will have a major impact on the environment, bringing what little wilderness remains within even closer reach of tourism and other developments.

Protagonists of these projects argue that the developments will benefit the people of the Kaokoveld and Namibia, providing clinics, schools, job opportunities, clean water and electricity needed for the country's development. But others are adamant that there should be no compromise when it comes to conserving this unique wilderness.

Despite the many positive benefits that careful and sensitive projects could bring, none is likely to provide the answer to all the problems. What is needed is to give formal conservation status to the area, a move clearly spelt out in Namibia's National Development Plan which states that: 'The establishment of a conservation corridor from Etosha to the Skeleton Coast will be an important element in the development of wildlife and tourism.' The creation of such a conservation area will not only restore the Kaokoveld to its former glory, but it also raises the exciting possibility of a trans-frontier conservation area with the Iona National Park in Angola. And with this would come opportunities for ecotourism rivalled by few other conservation areas in the world.

NamibiaReading

Namibia’s Himba People
The Kaokoveld Wilderness
Namibia's Endemics
Etosha National Park
Big Sky... Big Earth
Skeleton Coast
Birding: Impalila Island and the Eastern Caprivi

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