Big Sky... ...Big Earth Namibia

Etosha National Park, Namibia as seen from your bed at Little Ongava Camp

Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoilt gem in the purest sense.

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World Watch Advisory 03/17/04 04:54 GMT
Authorities warn March 16 2004 that serious floods are likely in northern Namibia in the coming weeks. Namibian Department of Water Affairs officials March 16 warned that impending floods in the Caprivi Strip in northern Namibia are likely going to exceed those seen in 2003 - which was described as a major disaster. Anticipate significant disruptions including road closures in this region in the coming weeks.

Officials have been reporting rising river levels in the Zambezi and Kavango rivers since mid-January. The water level in the Zambezi River March 14 was measured to be at least 1.6 meters higher than last year's level taken at the same time. Authorities estimate that additional rains in southern Angola are likely to push the levels well beyond those experienced in 2003 when floods submerged large parts of the Caprivi Strip and caused serious population displacements. Fears are even expressed that Katima Mulilo - a major town in the Caprivi Strip - may be flooded. Lake Liambezi in southern Caprivi has already begun flooding. Significant flooding may impact the major east-west road running through the Strip connecting Namibia with Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Expect disruptions in road travel and public services, including power outages; allow additional time to reach destinations. Consider postponing road travel to and through affected areas. If travel is unavoidable, carry plenty of food and water, and a radio with spare batteries. A personal satellite locator is also recommended. Avoid driving through water on roadways, as it could cause the vehicle's engine to stall. Do not attempt to move a stalled vehicle; abandon it and immediately move to higher ground.

As always in Namibia, drink bottled water only and use bottled water when brushing your teeth. Flooded conditions may lead to health risks and diseases such as malaria. Monitor media reports for local impact and follow the guidance of local authorities.

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Sun-scorched fields stretch towards stark granite mountains. Endless acres of barren beauty roll beneath blue skies to distant golden dunes. The magnitude of the desert is overwhelming. Below and all around me is wide open space; Namibia is a claustrophobe's dream.

It's a cold winter dawn as we head along the N7 out of Cape Town. Our Land Rover's filled to capacity and the roof rack is stacked tight. Soon we're passing the green fields of Malmesbury and Moorreesburg, then Citrusdal where orange trees hang heavy with fruit. After a petrol stop in Vanrhynsdorp, the scenery begins to change, the lush pastures giving way to arid scrubland. Under a deep blue sky, we continue north, to Springbok and a break, and then on to the border at Vioolsdrif, where towering hills and columns of stone line the road and windmills blur in the breeze. With the sun starting to set, we cross the Orange River and head into Namibia.

Our destination is Hobas, a small camping site north of Ai-Ais, just 10 kilometres from the Fish River Canyon. Dust rolls in great billowing clouds behind our vehicle as we continue into the darkening night. The main attraction of Hobas is the viewpoint over the Fish River Canyon, the starting point for the famous five-day hike that attracts outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world. The spectacular trail is only open from April to September as the rest of the year is simply too hot, with midday temperatures soaring to 45 °C.

The next morning I awake to the twittering chorus of birds and a strong wind with twisting columns of sand sifting along the plains. Strapping on my helmet, I set off on my mountain bike, following the dusty road to the viewpoint. There's no sign of humanity and, with the wind whipping me sideways, I bounce along in the relentless desert heat.

I reach the viewpoint where a group of excited hikers are about to begin their adventure, and gaze in awe at the gaping beauty of the canyon floor below. It's an hour's tough hike down to the river and I pick my way down the boulder-strewn path. Great folds of rock carved out over time zigzag down the gorge, curving around corners out of sight. Often I lose track of the path and have to clamber across valleys of stone. It's eerily still and the only sound that breaks the silence is that of rocks crunching beneath my boots.

After a knee-wrenching descent, I reach the sandy banks and stark beauty of the Fish River. It's been a hot hike and the green waters, though freezing, are inviting, so I dive in and swim to the other side. All too soon, it's time to make my way back up to the viewpoint. The ascent is as challenging as the descent and, sweating and swearing, I slog my way upwards over loose stones, stopping every few minutes to catch my breath. As I reach the top the day is all but spent, and the sun's last rays are illuminating the upper canyon walls in a rich golden light. But there is no time to linger as I still have an hour's bike ride back to camp. With the moon yet to rise and the light fading fast, the tracks ahead are almost invisible and by the time I reach Hobas, I'm cycling in the dark.

The next day we continue north into the great wide open. Towards evening, however, Sossusvlei and the spectacular sand dunes of the Namib Desert are still many kilometres away. So, with our petrol gauge showing empty, we decide to overnight in the desolate town of Seeheim. Situated just off the main road between Keetmanshoop and Lüderitz, Seeheim is simply a stop-over for most travelers, a diesel-and-dust town fallen into disrepair, with one hotel and a railway track. But Zirkie Kloppers, owner of the Seeheim Hotel, is upbeat. 'Life here is good,' he says, wrapped up in his trenchcoat against the evening chill. 'I've got two businesses in South Africa but soon I'm going to move here permanently. With my hotel and game farm, what more could a man want?'

Another day and another early start as it's a seven-hour drive ahead to Sesriem. A stiff breeze is blowing and small bushes take on a life of their own as they cartwheel across the road. To enjoy traveling through Namibia, one needs to settle into the rhythm of the road. Time spent behind the wheel cannot be seen merely as a means of getting from one place to another. With long straight roads, kilometers become meaningless so you relax, admire the scenery and enjoy the ride.

The terrain changes again and sand dunes begin to appear as we edge closer to the great Namib Desert. It's been a long, dusty day and we are happy to reach Sesriem and the Sossusvlei Lodge which is the perfect place to recharge one's body after a tiring day behind the wheel. The lodge is run on an eco-friendly basis. All electrical appliances are solar-powered and, with water at a premium, the bathrooms are fitted with showers instead of baths. After a hot shower in the luxurious Bedouin-style tents with adobe walls and cool slate floors, we gorge ourselves at the sumptuous open-air buffet while watching the moonlit dunes.

Sesriem is the gateway to one of Namibia's top attractions, the Sossusvlei dunes, where a sunrise excursion is essential to see the golden sands at their best. This morning, however, I'm on a journey of a different kind. The air is perfectly still and the sun is just making its appearance as our hot-air balloon begins to drift skywards. Silence surrounds us, the only sound being an occasional burst of flame on the burner by our pilot Thierry Travers. 'We never know in which direction we're going to go,' he tells us. 'It all depends on the wind ... and where ever it takes us, we land.' The beauty of the desert is never more evident than seen from above. Like a big bright bird, we coast effortlessly above the Sesriem Canyon 600 metres below. Small tributaries of dried-up rivers snake across the parched land and in the distance all we can see is great oceans of sand.

'I love my job,' smiles Travers, as he ignites another burst of gas into the coloured canopy. 'I never get bored and even though it's the same flight, every day seems different.' The scheduled hour literally flies past and suddenly we're descending. Travers guides us back to earth and we land in the middle of nowhere with a bump.

Another highlight in this desert wilderness is a 4x4 nature drive. 'A few months ago when we had the big floods, these were raging rivers,' says our guide Sembuli Juma, as he drives us through the dried-up Tsauchub and Aus riverbeds. 'Some of the guests staying at the lodge were stuck there for two weeks. But I don't think they really minded,' he quips.

Juma is a wealth of information and points out the spoor of hyaena, jackal, oryx, springbok and ostrich as we stop at an area where hundreds of bitter tsamma melons lie scattered on the ground. 'You see that big nest in the tree? It's the home of sociable weavers - up to 300 of them live there together.' All the animals and plants in the area have adapted in some way to the harshness of desert life. By way of example, Juma shows us the odd-shaped moringa tree, the roots of which probe into the earth for some 15 metres in search of water. We crest a dune and from the top watch the desert sunset. The last rays of light bathe the Namib sand in a soft golden glow.

Early next morning we're treated to harsh images of an achingly beautiful land where dead, contorted tree stumps protrude grotesquely from the cracked clay earth. This is Dead Vlei, one of Africa's greatest sights and the weirdest place I've ever been to. Nearby, Sossusvlei is still partially filled with water from recent floods but Dead Vlei last held water over 500 years ago and the air is too dry for the petrified camelthorn trees to rot. I've never seen anything like it and I walk around the strange landscape stunned, shooting roll after roll of film.

We drag ourselves away from the otherworldly scene of Dead Vlei to negotiate a further five kilometres through deep sand to Sossusvlei itself. We make it through without getting stuck and soon I am hiking my way up to the crest of a dune. From my vantage point I look back down towards the vehicles and people at the base, mere specks of humanity dwarfed by the mountains of sand.

Namibia's premier holiday resort is the coastal town of Swakopmund. It's another long drive but eventually we pass the sandy wastelands of Walvis Bay and cruise alongside the Atlantic Ocean into a misty Swakopmund. With extensive tourist facilities, quaint German architecture and old-world charm, Swakopmund is a pleasant place to spend a couple of days. Adventure enthusiasts are drawn to the area by the host of adrenalin-charged activities taking place in the dunes, and it's not long before I'm off for an afternoon of quad-biking on four-wheeled 'Breezers' that can reach speeds of 75 kilometers an hour.

We leave the Swakop River mouth and coast along mist-shrouded slopes, swerving through sandy tracks and powering up big dipper dunes. The sandy terrain is an ecologically sensitive area but the quad-bike trips are run responsibly. Riders are instructed to follow existing tracks and not go off on their own. It's another world out here and within minutes I'm totally hooked on the speed and sand. Enveloped in the mist, we stop for a drink at the top of a steep dune and our guide gives instructions on how to handle the sheer descent. 'Hold the handlebars straight, don't pull on the brakes, leave the throttle alone and enjoy the ride,' he smiles, before disappearing down the slope. This one isn't for the faint-hearted so I take a deep breath and lurch over the edge. 'Yee...haaa!!!' I scream, careering down the heart-stopping dune before leveling out after the wildest ride of my life. In a thin jersey and short pants, I'm a little underdressed for the fog, but with adrenalin rushing through my blood, I don't even feel the cold.

An excursion that's not to be missed when visiting Swakopmund is the Welwitschia Drive, a self-guided route that starts 20 kilometers from town and features the giant Welwitschia mirabilis plant. These unusual plants are found only in the Namib and some specimens are estimated to be as much as 2 000 years old. Leaving the tar road, the drive takes us through the gravel plains of the Namib-Naukluft Park. Down below in the Swakop River valley, the spectacular scenery has appropriately been named the Moon Landscape for the lunar-like patterns that cut across the land. We make several stops to inspect the strange plants and the large lichen fields. The lichens survive on moisture from the fog that often blankets the area and are best viewed in the early morning before they dry out and lose their colour in the hot sun.

The next day we head north along the coastal road towards Henties Bay. From there, it's a short dusty ride inland to the rocky spectacle of the Spitzkoppe. Known as the 'Matterhorn of Namibia', these imposing granite mountains rise some 700 metres above the flat surrounding plains and are a paradise for rock climbers. The scenery is spectacular. Towering cliff faces dominate the landscape and I clamber around massive boulders that seem to have been scattered by giants at play. The wind drops and the setting sun casts slanting shadows across the golden slabs of granite. Soft hues of purple and pink dance across the horizon as a full moon rises over the distant peaks of Damaraland.

Sometime in the early hours of the morning a wild wind blows in and threatens to tear away the tent. At dawn it's still raging and with the wind-chill factor, the temperature is well below zero. Despite the cold, I'm up for sunrise and spend two shivering hours photographing rock rabbits, tenebrionid beetles, lazy lizards and peculiar trees. Then we wait for the sun to warm us before packing up and heading on towards Twyfelfontein. A Herero man on his donkey cart gives us directions to the defunct mining town of Uis and we continue along the rutted road full of big squashed spiders. The midday sun beats down relentlessly and near the Ugab River, a sad-looking lady sits at her roadside stall selling Herero dolls. 'Not many cars pass by here,' she says in Afrikaans. 'The best I can hope for is to sell three a month.'

It is late by the time we reach Twyfelfontein, but there's still enough light for a quick visit to the rock paintings for which the area is famous. Two circular walks have been laid out along the slopes of the flat-topped mountain where more than 2 000 rock engravings, some dating back 6 000 years, have been recorded.

No visit to Namibia is complete without a trip up north to Etosha National Park. We enter through the Andersson Gate and because it's the dry season there's plenty of wildlife around. In the short drive to Okaukuejo Camp, we see large herds of zebra, giraffe, oryx, impala and springbok.

We spend the next two days exploring Etosha's animal world. Early mornings are the best, when huge herds of Burchell's zebra line up at waterholes to drink. But the most prolific viewing is at the waterhole right in the Okaukuejo Camp. The focus of visitor activity and conveniently floodlit at night, the Okaukuejo waterhole is abuzz with the ceaseless traffic of hundreds of animals coming to quench their thirst. We are treated to a large herd of at least 40 elephants having the time of their lives, slurping up water and rolling around in the mud. With dust and spray flying everywhere, it is truly a special scene. There's not a sound from the human gallery assembled at the low wall overlooking the waterhole.

On our final game drive, I'm lucky enough to catch sight of a lone leopard padding along the road before it slinks away into thick grass. I've never seen a leopard in the wild before so I grab my binoculars and attempt to follow its path. There are just 10 minutes of sunlight left, and the camp gates close promptly at sunset, but a leopard sighting is rare so I cut it fine, staying out in the hope of catching another glimpse of the beautiful cat. No such luck, and I get back to camp as the gates begin to swing shut. Situated in the north-western corner of Namibia is one of the world's last true wilderness areas, the remote Kaokoland. This rugged place, home to the nomadic Himba people and desert-dwelling elephant and rhino, is in most parts only accessible in a 4x4 and large tracts remain unexplored. We're on limited time so Opuwo is as far as we can go. A true frontier town, Opuwo is the only place in the region where petrol and provisions can be bought. Travellers heading deeper into Kaokoland are advised to be totally self-sufficient and to travel in convoy with another vehicle.

Although most of the are situated well off the beaten track, there are some villages near Opuwo that can be visited with a guide. One of these settlements is Omagotanga where I meet the village chief, Kamorambwa Ngumbi. 'Life is very difficult for us,' says the chief through an interpreter. 'There is not much rain and our crops do not grow well. But we meet at the holy fire every day to speak with our ancestors and ask them for good luck.' The men have just killed a goat and in a Himba village, nothing goes to waste. The skin is used for clothing while the bones are used to make necklaces; and the horns of cattle are used to store red ochre powder.

Time passes too quickly in Namibia - a tranquil journey of warm clear days, spectacular sunsets and bone-chilling nights. After a fleeting detour back to Swakopmund, we begin the long drive homewards. Our final camp site is near Noordoewer, on the banks of the Orange River, with South Africa just a stone's throw away. Night draws a black veil over the moonless sky. I stretch out under the studded heavens and count shooting stars as they streak through the Milky Way. From across the plains comes the call of a jackal. I lie there, relaxed, long into the Namibian night.
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GETTING THERE
By road: arriving from South Africa, the two main border posts are at Noordoewer and Ariamsvlei. Both are open 24 hours. There are regular bus services between Windhoek and both Cape Town and Johannesburg.

By rail: once a year, in May, the luxury South African train Rovos Rail voyages between Pretoria and Swakopmund, taking seven days. The Shongololo Express links Namibia with South Africa, taking in top tourist destinations:

By air: Windhoek International Airport is served by numerous airlines and has regular flights connecting it with southern African countries and Europe.

GETTING AROUND
By road: Namibia has more kilometres of road per capita than any other African country. Distances to cover are vast and the best way to get around is as part of an organized tour. Tarred roads link all the major centers, but the aim in this beautiful land is to get off the highways and onto the dust. Most gravel roads can be traveled by sedan vehicle, the exception being Kaokoland where a 4x4 with good ground clearance is essential in most parts. In the more remote areas, it is important to be totally self-sufficient and to travel in convoy with another vehicle if possible. Read up about your route before you leave and go well prepared. You will be traveling long distances, so relax, take it easy and enjoy the ride.

By rail: NamRail's main line runs from the South African border via Keetmanshoop to Windhoek, Okahandja, Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. A northern section links up with Omaruru, Otjiwarongo, Otavi, Tsumeb and Grootfontein.
Namibia's luxury Desert Express links Windhoek and Swakopmund by rail, taking 24 hours.

By air: Air Namibia flies internally between major towns.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
South African citizens do not need a visa to enter Namibia, just a passport that is valid for six months after date of entry. Citizens of the USA and some other countries require visas.

HEALTH WARNING
The northern parts of Namibia, including Etosha National Park, fall into a malaria risk area. It is advisable to take the necessary precautions, especially during summer.

WHEN TO VISIT
The dry, cool season from May to October is the most pleasant time; during summer (December to March) temperatures can become unbearable. During the South African school holidays popular resorts can be crowded.

WHERE TO STAY
There is a wide range of accommodation available in Namibia.

CURRENCY
Local currency is the Namibian dollar (NAD) but South African Rands are accepted as an equal substitute.

LEISURE AND ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES
Namibia's open spaces and stark beauty offer great opportunities for hiking. Take your pick from the Namib-Naukluft Park, Waterberg Plateau, the Ugab River and the best of them all, the spectacular Fish River Canyon. Other popular activities include hot-air ballooning above the desert, river-rafting trips on the Orange River, 4x4 excursions and horse trails.

HIGHLIGHTS
Namibia has some of the most spectacular scenery I've ever seen. It is a country in which one really experiences the freedom of wide open space. Nothing can quite compare to the surreal landscape of Dead Vlei, Sossusvlei's towering sand dunes and the sheer magnificence of the Kulala nature drive. Other experiences not to be missed include a hot-air balloon trip at sunrise over the Namib Desert, quad-bike riding through mist-shrouded dunes near Swakopmund and watching the Etosha elephants take their sunset bath at the Okaukuejo waterhole. Sunset over the Spitzkoppe is truly beautiful and the opportunity to meet the Himba of Kaokoland is definitely worth the long, dusty drive.

PLIGHT OF A DAYTIME HUNTER
At the turn of the century an estimated 100 000 cheetahs lived in 44 countries throughout Africa and Asia. Today there are less than 10 000 cheetahs world-wide, and Namibia is home to the largest number. These cats thrive in open areas where prey is abundant, and although there are 2 400 living wild in Nambia, their natural habitat has greatly decreased over the years. As a result, 95 per cent of wild cheetahs are found on commercial livestock farmland.

Although cheetahs pose no threat to human life and their favoured prey is small antelope, the young of large antelope, warthog, hares and gamebirds, problems between themselves and farmers exist. Cheetahs are daytime hunters and chase down their prey, reaching speeds of over 110 kilometres per hour. Goats or sheep do not run from predators as wild animals do, so a healthy cheetah will not naturally target livestock. Cheetahs are, however, often blamed by farmers for stock losses more likely to have been caused by noctural hunters such as jackal and hyaena.
One initiative dedicated to promoting the co-existence of farmer and cheetah is the Cheetah Conservation Fund (CCF).

DIRT ROAD DRIVING - SIX SAFETY TIP
• On gravel/dirt roads, keep far behind the vehicle in front to avoid dust, which will obstruct your view.
• When overtaking, switch on your headlights, pass as quickly as possible and get some distance between you and the other car.
• Gravel roads are slippery, so slow down before bends.
• To minimize the risk of a skid, keep changing down into a lower gear. Keep your foot off the accelerator and try not to brake unless you have to.
• If skidding starts, turn the wheels in the same direction as the skid.
• If a blow-out occurs, do not brake. Take your foot off the accelerator and let the car come to a gradual stop.
Courtesy of the National Road Safety Council, Namibia

MOVING WITH THE WIND
Sunrise hot-air balloon trips are offered in Namibia. Each morning weather permitting, passengers watch the balloon inflate, and are taken by one of the qualified pilots over the awakening desert for approximately an hour's flight. The direction depends on the wind but the general route gives breathtaking views of the Sesriem Canyon and the Aus and Tsauchub riverbeds. After an exhilarating landing in the desert - in calm conditions, the balloon can be pinpointed to drop onto the trailer of the support vehicle that's been following on the ground - the crew quickly set up a champagne breakfast fit for a king. 'Once you start living in this beautiful part of the world, and doing this kind of work, it just keeps growing on you,' says the pilot. 'You can never get yourself to leave.'

ECO-FRIENDLY ADVICE
Unlike temperate zones that recover fairly quickly from human abuse, dry desert regions are far more fragile, so extra effort should be made when travelling in Namibia to keep the environment unspoiled. Every tourist should adhere to the following eco-friendly advice:
• When driving in the desert, or in any other sensitive environment, never leave the road or deviate from well-used tracks. Due to low rainfall, fresh tyre marks can take up to 80 years to disappear.
• Avoid camping in riverbeds because animals often congregate at these points. Sometimes they travel for days to get to a waterhole and if tourists are camping nearby, they will avoid it and not be able to drink.
• The golden rule of camping is to take out what you take in. Don't leave without your litter and don't just bury it as animals will simply dig it up. Also, at times when no ablution facilities are available, remember that toilet paper left in the bush is not a pretty sight. Burn it and make sure the flames are extinguished.
• Don't waste firewood and never leave a fire burning when vacating a camp.
• In the desert and other dry regions of Namibia, water is scarce and should not be wasted. Use it sparingly and don't use soap to wash clothes or yourself in streams or rivers as animals and humans use these resources for drinking.

THE OCHRE PEOPLE
There are approximately 5000 Himba people living in Kaokoland. They are closely related to the Herero, most of whom migrated to central Namibia in the 19th century. The Himba are pastoralists whose nomadic existence revolves around finding grazing land for their cattle and goats. Most of the Himba men have adopted some form of Western dress but the women still wear their traditional outfits of leather aprons, thongs and headdresses.

The Himba are known as 'the ochre people', and the women make yearly trips to gather supplies of the red powder which they mix with fat to cover their bodies from head to toe. This treatment protects their skins against the harsh desert climate. Himba huts are built from mopane trees, with thick reed ceilings, and are sealed with cattle dung. The most sacred place in any settlement is the holy fire where the Himba talk to their ancestors and pray for guidance and good luck.

Being involved as equal partners in an initiative to develop game-viewing and tourism in the area, the Himba are able to generate an alternative income by becoming the conservators of the remaining wildlife where they have lived and hunted for centuries. This example of ecotourism serves to unite the conservation of the wildlife with the development of the Himba community.

When visiting any Himba village, tourists should take care not to walk between the holy fire and the main hut as this would be seen as a sign of disrespect. When the Himba depart with their cattle for another area, they often leave their household items in the empty settlement until they return. Tourists should respect their customs and not take any of their possessions as souvenirs.

Namibia at a glance
Full name: Republic of Namibia Area: 824 268 square kilometres Topography: 4 distinct regions - Namib Desert, semi-arid mountainous plateau, Kalahari Desert, bush-covered plains Highest mountain: Königstein (2 579 metres) in the Brandberg Capital city: Windhoek Government: Multi-party parliament and a democratic constitution President: Sam Nujoma Population: 1.8 million. Population density is less than two people per square kilometre Languages: English is the official language; also several Bantu languages, Afrikaans and German, and Khoisan languages spoken by the San (Bushmen) Currency: Namibian dollar

Welwitschia mirabilis: a living fossil plant and botanical oddity, peculiar to the arid regions of Namibia and southern Angola. Research suggests that most individual plants live for over 1 000 years, producing only two leaves in their lifetime. Scientists are perplexed as to how exactly these plants obtain enough moisture to survive, presuming that they absorb morning dew from a network of fine roots lying near the surface of the ground, and underground moisture from a very long tap root. Studying their reproductive patterns also proves difficult since welwitschias only flower after exceptional rains, and the seeds germinate under specific, optimal conditions. Young plants are therefore very rarely seen.

NamibiaReading

Namibia’s Himba People
The Kaokoveld Wilderness
Namibia's Endemics
Etosha National Park
Big Sky... Big Earth
Skeleton Coast
Birding: Impalila Island and the Eastern Caprivi

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