Impalila Island and the Eastern Caprivi

Gliding silently in a Mekoro dug out canoe is an optimal mode of transport for serious birdwatchers.

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World Watch Advisory 03/17/04 04:54 GMT
Authorities warn March 16 2004 that serious floods are likely in northern Namibia in the coming weeks. Namibian Department of Water Affairs officials March 16 warned that impending floods in the Caprivi Strip in northern Namibia are likely going to exceed those seen in 2003 - which was described as a major disaster. Anticipate significant disruptions including road closures in this region in the coming weeks.

Officials have been reporting rising river levels in the Zambezi and Kavango rivers since mid-January. The water level in the Zambezi River March 14 was measured to be at least 1.6 meters higher than last year's level taken at the same time. Authorities estimate that additional rains in southern Angola are likely to push the levels well beyond those experienced in 2003 when floods submerged large parts of the Caprivi Strip and caused serious population displacements. Fears are even expressed that Katima Mulilo - a major town in the Caprivi Strip - may be flooded. Lake Liambezi in southern Caprivi has already begun flooding. Significant flooding may impact the major east-west road running through the Strip connecting Namibia with Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Expect disruptions in road travel and public services, including power outages; allow additional time to reach destinations. Consider postponing road travel to and through affected areas. If travel is unavoidable, carry plenty of food and water, and a radio with spare batteries. A personal satellite locator is also recommended. Avoid driving through water on roadways, as it could cause the vehicle's engine to stall. Do not attempt to move a stalled vehicle; abandon it and immediately move to higher ground.

As always in Namibia, drink bottled water only and use bottled water when brushing your teeth. Flooded conditions may lead to health risks and diseases such as malaria. Monitor media reports for local impact and follow the guidance of local authorities.

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Birding Adventure

Namibia's Caprivi Strip was for many years a closed military area and has only in recent times opened up as a superb birding destination. The eastern extremity of this long extension of Namibia is bounded by the Zambezi and Chobe rivers and is jewelled with many small forested islands and some superb floodplains. It forms the meeting point of four countries: Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana.

The largest island in this remote part of Africa is Impalila, some 11 kilometres long and four kilometres wide. On the two sides it is flanked by the converging Zambezi and Chobe rivers, 70 kilometres upriver from Victoria Falls, and on the third by a natural channel, the Kasai, as it winds its way between the two major rivers and thus parts the Namibia mainland at its eastern extremity.

Impalila Island has a variety of habitats ranging from mopane and riparian woodland to open grasslands, floodplains and reed- and papyrus-lined channels. The island, which is inhabited by rural Namibian people, has a superb tourist lodge which makes an ideal base for some exciting birding.

Birding remains good throughout the year but the best time is summer, in the months between November and April when migrant species are present. Birdwatching can be done on foot on Impalila and the smaller neighbouring islands, by motorboat on the Zambezi and Chobe rivers as well as along the reed-fringed Kasai, and by mekoro (traditional dugouts) through the floodplain.

A walk on Impalila Island is likely to produce Red-billed Helmetshrike, Swamp and Tropical boubous, Meyer's Parrot, Red-billed Francolin, African Mourning Dove, Brown Firefinch, Hartlaub's Babbler, Coppery Sunbird and Western Banded Snake Eagle, while Slender-billed Honeyguide and Golden-backed Pytilia are also possibilities. Along the Zambezi shoreline White-browed and Senegal coucals can be encountered. Where the tree-lined banks have overhanging vegetation two specials to look out for are White-backed Night Heron and African Finfoot. At dusk Natal Nightjar can be located by its 'chop, chop, chop' call in the floodplain close to the lodge and Pennant-winged Nightjar is sometimes seen. A visit to a nearby uninhabited island can also be rewarding. The dense riparian forest shelters Pel's Fishing Owl and two surprise encounters may be the only population of Olive Woodpeckers in Namibia, and Emerald Cuckoo at the very edge of its range.

Excursions through the floodplain by mokoro are fascinating. Silently and slowly, a local paddler propels you through waterlilies and marsh grasses, the habitat of Rufous-bellied Heron, Coppery-tailed Coucal, Lesser Gallinule, Lesser Jacana, Greater Swamp Warbler, Chirping Cisticola, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Little Bittern, Brown-throated Weaver and Pygmy Goose. There is always the anticipation of coming across something unexpected and, depending on the level of flooding at the time of your visit, you may very well pick up Spotted, African or Baillon's crake skulking in the floodplain shallows.

Boat-based birdwatching lends added excitement, and motorboat excursions up the Zambezi River or into the Chobe River provide very different experiences. The Zambezi is wide and there are large sandbanks and waterlily-covered backwaters. A series of rapids bordering Impalila provides a home for Rock Pratincoles which breed on the rocks surrounded by turbulent water. Close views can be obtained as the boat moves slowly past the birds in calmer water above the rapids. Further west the river is flat and wide, and it is worthwhile cutting the engine in the shallows close to sandbanks as African Skimmers, which breed on the sand when the water level is low, fly slowly past the boat, offering excellent photographic opportunities. These exposed sandbanks are usually good for wader viewing, and among the Palaearctic migrants such as Ruff, Marsh Sandpiper and Little Stint you can find various plovers, including White-fronted, Kittlitz's, Wattled and White-crowned. Large numbers of both Red-winged and Black-winged pratincoles gather to roost alongside numerous waterfowl: White-faced, Knob-billed and Fulvous ducks, Red-billed and Hottentot teals, and Egyptian and Spurwinged geese. Various storks, herons and egrets also favour the sandbanks and there is always the unexpected, such as the occasion when we came across a flock of Yellow-throated Sandgrouse. Coastal waders are sometimes another surprise and we have recorded Bar-tailed Godwit a number of times.

Quiet backwaters are worth exploring. White-backed Ducks usually sit motionless among the waterlilies and the beautiful little Pygmy Goose is also difficult to discern. Great Snipe, a special for the area, can sometimes be found on the margins of these backwaters. Be careful though, as Ethiopian Snipe is decidedly more common and the two species are easily confused. Watch for the Great Snipe's shorter, heavier bill, the barred underparts and the direct flight; Ethiopian Snipe has a zigzag flight when disturbed.

On some stretches the Zambezi shoreline has steep banks which provide nesting sites for Pied Kingfisher, Brown-throated Martin, Horus Swift, White-fronted Bee-eater and large colonies of Southern Carmine Bee-eater.

Boat rides on the Chobe River offer an entirely different experience. The river meanders and forms ox-bows in the floodplain and birdwatching takes on a different dimension with the added excitement of game-viewing from a boat - lions, large numbers of elephants and big herds of buffalo are often seen and, occasionally, packs of wild dogs. Rarer mammals include puku, red lechwe and the beautiful Chobe bushbuck. The grassy floodplain is home to Long-toed Plover, Slaty Egret and Pink-throated Longclaw. Osprey is a regular sighting, even in winter, and African Fish Eagles are common. Both Red-billed and Yellow-billed ox peckers are seen on the game animals, the latter showing a preference for buffalo.

As you return to the lodge along the Kasai channel at dusk, the water turns gold in the late afternoon light and crepuscular Marsh Owls and Black-crowned Night Herons can be seen flying overhead. Little Bitterns also make their appearance at this time and difficult-to-identify nightjars form tantalizing silhouettes against the darkening sky.

The eastern Caprivi is truly one of the favorite places in southern Africa, and for keen birders and nature-lovers a trip to this remote area is an absolute must.

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Birding: Impalila Island and the Eastern Caprivi

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