Livingstone Luxury Adventure!

Regarded as the most dramatic bathroom in Africa, Songwe Village Kwando Safaris

Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoilt gem in the purest sense.

THE REBIRTH OF ZAMBIA'S TOURISM CAPITAL

After becoming something of a ghost town in the 1970s and '80s, Livingstone in Zambia is undergoing a revival and is once again becoming known as the country's 'tourism capital'. Now, visitors to the Victoria Falls can experience - without crowds - authentic African ambience and the warm hospitality of this lovely town on the Zambian bank of the Zambezi River.

Over the last three decades conventional wisdom within the tourism industry has recommended the Zimbabwean side of the Zambezi River as the better option for visitors wishing to spend a few days in the thrall of the mighty Victoria Falls. The loser was the Zambian side and the town of Livingstone, as their share of the lucrative tourism trade fell to almost nothing.

But now the times, they are a-changin in this part of the world. The 'wrong side' of the Victoria Falls is undergoing its very own renaissance, a process of regeneration that has actually been underway for some time and is now beginning to stir tourists and operators alike. The town of Livingstone, with its countless attractions that include choice lodges, great budget accommodation and exciting activity options, is fast becoming not only a viable holiday destination, but also a popular one. The renewal had its beginnings in 1992, after Zambia's change of government. Tourism was actively encouraged and promoted for the first time since independence in 1964, and now it is this sector of the economy that is driving the improvement in the area's fortunes.

The town's history dates back almost 100 years and was linked to the activities of British colonialism in general and Cecil John Rhodes's British South Africa Company (BSAC) in particular. The first European settlement in the area, the Old Drift trading post, was established on the banks of the Zambezi in 1898 where the convoys heading into the northern hinterlands landed after crossing the river.

The catalyst for the growth of Livingstone from malaria-infested trading post to regional capital came about via a combination of economic and political factors. Rhodes had already secured all the mineral rights in the greater region by offering the then paramount chief, King Lewanika, protection from the Matabele. When coal was discovered south of the Zambezi and copper to the north, Rhodes and the BSAC undertook to build a railway line linking these two spheres of burgeoning industry. By 1904 the line had reached Victoria Falls and 14 months later the bridge had been completed, linking what was then Southern Rhodesia to Northern Rhodesia.

It was also in 1905 that the BSAC decided to move its offices away from the damp and mosquito-ridden Old Drift site, giving life to present-day Livingstone. Even in those early days, the combination of the Falls and the railway line had been pinpointed as a major tourist attraction in the making, and when it came to choosing a site for the new town many of the townsfolk wanted it positioned a lot closer to the waterfall in order to take advantage of what they considered to be a certain money-spinner. There were reputedly many disputes and much argument, but Rhodes and his company, preferring the site on higher ground away from the river, overrode them all. Soon afterwards, the town was given official sanction when the British Government selected Livingstone to become the centre of its interests north of the Zambezi River.

By 1910 the population of Livingstone had grown to more than 300 and the town boasted a fine Government House, a court house, two hotels, a hospital and a post office, a boat club, various churches and numerous shops and commercial businesses. True recognition came in 1911 when it was made the capital of Northern Rhodesia, which it remained until 1935. Even after the new capital, Lusaka, and the flourishing Copper Belt began eroding Livingstone's political influence, the town continued to prosper as a small commercial centre and a major railway junction. At the height of its prominence in the late 1950s and early 1960s, it was a thriving colonial outpost with a busy tourism industry centered on the Falls. Then, in 1964, came independence and Livingstone started to die.

To the first-time visitor, Livingstone may not appear particularly noteworthy. Along Mosi-Oa-Tunya, the broad, leafy main street, one sees the usual mix of old and new that characterizes most ex-colonial African towns and cities. But to those who remember the town five years ago (could you find somewhere to make a phone call, let alone send an e-mail?) and 10 years ago (could you get a cold Coke?), the changes are incredible.

The use of paint is often a good indicator of changing prosperity in African countries, and Livingstone is getting it by the bucketful, in all sorts of vibrant colors. Still in the main street but swinging out of the central district and heading towards the Falls, one passes on the right a recently renovated complex painted in a wonderful array of earthy colours. This is the African Adventure Centre, housing an eclectic group of individuals and companies, some with wonderfully quirky names. They are all members of the new generation of entrepreneurs helping to drive the town's revival. But Cyberian Outpost, Fawlty Towers, Serious Fun Adventures, African Visions, Makora Quest, Safari Par Excellence and The Funky Monkey are not the only places where you'll find the new-look Livingstone; it's just that this downtown strip is the most visible sign of the transformation. Supermarkets, restaurants, gift shops, tour operators, guesthouses and lodges are all opening up at a rapid rate.

Much of the area's appeal lies in its diversity of attractions, from the rich history and the cultural experiences to the selection of great lodges (see opposite) and the best views of the waterfall. The old is represented by two museums, a collection of turn-of-the-century church buildings and many colonial-style homes, shop buildings and hotels. Fortunately, the town council has embraced the local heritage and views it as an asset to tourism, with all buildings erected before 1924 having been declared 'ancient heritage' sites and protected by law. The Livingstone Museum offers visitors a fascinating insight into the history of the greater region, and contains a collection of memorabilia belonging to David Livingstone, including personal letters and diaries.

For many tourists to the Victoria Falls, this is their first - perhaps only - chance to experience authentic African life. Just outside Livingstone, the Makuni Village and its inhabitants welcome visitors and invite them to stroll through the maze of huts and get involved in the daily chores.

The Falls region has gained a worldwide reputation for being one of the top adrenalin-sport destinations. But did you know that all these activities, except parachuting, were pioneered on the Zambian side? From the first bungee-jumping and commercial rafting operations to kayaking and micro-lighting, they all began here. The two latest options, river boarding and abseiling, also recently originated at Livingstone and both are set to make inroads into the more established pursuits of white-water rafting and bungee-jumping.

Livingstone is officially known as Zambia's 'tourism capital', a status it is now beginning to live up to with the recent 'big news' story that Sun International really is coming to town after two years of uncertainty. Clearing has already started on the sites of the old Mosi-Oa-Tunya hotel and Rainbow Lodge, with a five-star hotel and a four-star resort replacing the old establishments. The new development is expected to bring in more than 400 bed-nights to the Livingstone area and is due to open by mid-2001. In the meantime it will be responsible for providing thousands of jobs to the local workforce. Many smaller operators and tourism-affiliated businesses are banking on Sun International's marketing clout and worldwide reputation to give the whole industry a major boost. The multinational has also undertaken to become involved in managing the surrounding national park and upgrading the local airport.

As one of the natural wonders of the world, the Victoria Falls are always going to be on the itinerary of the serious traveler, and the area's allure to the adrenalin junkies of the world seems boundless. Now, in Livingstone, visitors who prefer to avoid the busy commercialism on the Zimbabwean side have an alternative place to stay.

Accommodation options on the Zambian side of the Victoria Falls may still lack large, opulent resort complexes, but they certainly make up for it in a great selection of small to medium-sized lodges, unique in their location and style, and offering the charm and personal hospitality associated with self-owned establishments. All are situated in scenic surroundings with river frontage along the Zambezi. Visitors also have access to the full range of outdoor activities associated with the Falls, as well as the cultural and historical options that Livingstone presents.

Kwando Safaris Songwe Point Village
For those wanting a real African experience, it doesn't get much better than at Songwe Point Village. Songwe's objective is to provide guests with the ultimate in local cultural involvement and the whole camp is run along the lines of a traditional village. Hosts Gabrielle and Juliet offer supreme hospitality throughout an unforgettable stay that includes evenings of folklore story-telling around a fire, traditional meals and hours of singing and dancing to African drums. Songwe also offers excursions to the nearby royal village of Chief Makuni, which has a natural history museum.

A bonus is the spectacular view of the lower Zambezi gorge, and for many guests the highlight of their stay will be taking an evening bath that offers one of the most awesome views ever.

The River Club
If you're looking for something a little different from the conventional safari lodge, then head for the urbane elegance of The River Club where the emphasis is on the British colonial style of yesteryear. The main house, set back from the river-fronted pool deck, boasts an impressive library and sitting room, and an intriguing collection of black-and-white historical photos of the area. In the main dining area you'll be treated to some of the finest food in the region. And if you tire of water-based activities, you can always try a game of croquet on The River Club's lush lawns. The accommodation comprises 10 stilted, split-level bungalows and two sumptuous honeymoon suites, all with panoramic views over the river.

Tongabezi
A stalwart of the Zambian tourist industry, Tongabezi has long been a favourite destination for those who prefer the serenity of the Zambian side. The lodge fronts the Zambezi River along a gentle bend and offers a range of distinctly styled accommodation options. Its honeymoon suite is particularly appealing and it also offers a fun family unit known as the 'dog house'.

As an alternative, it is possible to stay at the smaller and more isolated camp, Sindabezi Island. Both camps have a great reputation for their food.

Livingstone, Zambia

WHEN TO GO
The most comfortable months are April to September, when the temperatures are cooler, rain is unlikely and the threat of malaria is lower. For those who don't mind heat and rain, the summer months can be very rewarding, as the countryside is at its most scenic.

Keen rafters should check with vacationtechnician.com, as the rafting operators may close down during May and June because of high water levels.

GETTING THERE
There are no scheduled flights into Livingstone, but SAA and several other African airlines fly to Lusaka. Coming from Europe or North America one would need to connect with British Airways, which also flies to Lusaka.

VISA REQUIREMENTS
South African passport-holders do not require visas. Passport-holders of other countries should check with their travel agent.

HEALTH REQUIREMENTS
There are no official health requirements to enter Zambia, but Livingstone is in a high-risk malaria area so it is advisable to take prophylactics, particularly between December and May; using insect repellant and sleeping under mosquito nets is strongly advised. Get Insured.

The water in the lodges along the Zambezi is safe to drink, but drink bottled water if you are staying in town.

Before participating in any of the adrenalin sports, make sure that you are dealing with a reputable operator and they are covered by a rescue service. The best medical facilities in the area are across the border at Victoria Falls.

Changing money on the street is not illegal, but it is strongly advised against. As the kwacha is of no value outside Zambia, it is worth exchanging any surplus back to a stronger currency before leaving.

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