Birding Kruger National Park

$Just two-million hectares in extent, the Kruger National Park encompasses a tiny fraction of the total extent of southern Africa. Yet no less than 54 per cent of the 920 species listed in Roberts' Birds of Southern Africa have been recorded in it!$

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Just two-million hectares in extent, the Kruger National Park encompasses a tiny fraction of the total extent of southern Africa. Yet no less than 54 per cent of the 920 species listed in Roberts' Birds of Southern Africa have been recorded in it. No wonder it's a favorite hotspot among local and foreign birders, especially during the summer months when all kinds of migrants flock in. And in 1998, its centenary year, the Park will be more popular than ever.

The experts list a number of factors to explain the diversity of birdlife: a range of habitats based on the Park being situated where geological and climatic zones meet; five major river systems within its boundaries; and short- and long-term rainfall cycles which affect the arrival of migrants. Many migrant species occur only in summer, so this is the best time for birders too. Certain species - European and Broad-billed rollers, Carmine Bee-eater, Woodland Kingfisher and Great Spotted, Jacobin, Striped, Diederik, Klaas's and Red-chested cuckoos - arrive regardless of the amount of rain that has fallen, but others - Black Coucal, Montagu's and Pallid harriers, Fan-tailed and Desert cisticolas, Monotonous Lark, Harlequin and Common quails and Kurrichane Buttonquail - only visit after particularly heavy rainfall when the grass is thick and lush.

Naturally, some parts of the Park are more attractive to birds (and birders) than others. Six of the 'hottest' hotspots, from Pafuri in the north to Lower Sabie and Crocodile Bridge in the south, are highlighted here.

Pafuri
Many of the more tropical species reach their southern limit at Pafuri, making it without doubt the best and most exciting birding locality in the Park. It is within easy reach of the Shingwedzi, Punda Maria and Sirheni restcamps, and a birder would do well to spend at least a full day here. There is an excellent picnic spot among the tall trees right on the bank of the Luvuvhu River and this is a very good place to see many different species, especially Narina Trogon, Wattle-eyed Flycatcher and Yellow White-eye. Sadly, numbers of both the Trumpeter Hornbill and the northern race of the Cape Parrot have been greatly reduced due to a major die-off of the sycamore figs during the drought of 1993. Fortunately, the loud calls of these two species make them easy to locate.

Tropical Boubou, Gorgeous Bush Shrike and Bleating Warbler are common along the river, but are more easily heard than seen; their calls are among the characteristic sounds of the area. Southern Lesser Blue-eared Starling has been recorded at the Pafuri border post just south of the Luvuvhu River on the eastern boundary, a sighting confirmed by the presence of the distinctive juveniles. Other interesting species which are easily ticked are Meves' Long-tailed Starling and Crested Guineafowl, and when you get a view of the sandbanks along the Luvuvhu River you have a good chance of seeing White-crowned Plover.

In the arid bushveld between the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers Three-banded Courser have been seen on a few occasions, once even with young. The only records of Crimson-breasted Shrike in the Park have also been made here.

In summer Mottled Spine- tails wheel around the baobab trees where they have their nesting sites, although both they and Böhm's Spinetails can be seen at any time of year if you are prepared to spend time 'skywatching', particularly at the western end of Nyala Drive or from the highwater bridge over the Luvuvhu River. Summer is also the time to see Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and Broad-billed Rollers.

Lemon-breasted Canaries breed in the mlala palms at 'Crooks' Corner' after the first good rains. Terrestrial and African Yellow-bellied bulbuls are common in the northern part of the Park, and other resident species which can, with luck, be recorded are Crowned Hornbill, Racket-tailed Roller, Thick-billed Cuckoo and Yellow-spotted Nicator. The last two species are easier to locate if you get to know their calls.

The Nyalaland Trail is based very close to the Luvuvhu River and is probably the best way to experience the Pafuri area and its birds. On foot and in the company of knowledgeable rangers, trailists have a chance to see Pel's Fishing Owl, Crowned Eagle (which nests in the vicinity), Peregrine Falcon and African Finfoot. Mottled Spinetails breed and roost in a large baobab in the trail camp itself. In some years a pair of Black Eagles nest on a rock ledge within sight of the camp and they can be watched at leisure.

Punda Maria
Situated in a botanically diverse area and close to the almost tropical habitats of the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers and the forests of the Soutpansberg, Punda Maria has been the site of many unusual bird records. Some of the more interesting species observed have been the Mashona Hyliota, Broad-tailed Paradise Whydah, Racket-tailed Roller, Yellow-bellied Sunbird, Golden-backed Pytilia and the Blue-spotted Dove; the last two have been seen in the restcamp. Also in the camp are Eastern Bearded and African White-throated robins and African Goshawk, as well as Southern Black, Blue-grey, Fan-tailed and African Paradise flycatchers. A short walking trail, named after the last species, has been laid out in the camp and visitors can spend some time following it at their leisure. African Yellow-bellied and Terrestrial bulbuls also occur in the camp and are easily located by their calls.

The Mahogany Loop (the S99) is well worth taking, particularly for those also interested in trees as it passes through Punda Maria Sandveld habitat. A very early morning drive along it in summer may be rewarded by sightings of Pennant-winged Nightjar, which occasionally occurs here, and of African Barred, Barn and Spotted Eagle owls. Although mopane trees are abundant in the northern areas of the Park, they form tall forests in only a very restricted area, which is traversed by the S60 and the H13-1 roads. These forests are the only habitat in the Park where Arnot's Chat occurs.

To the north-east of Punda Maria is a small dam named Klopperfontein which, when it has water, has been known to host African Rail and both Common and Lesser moorhens. There are many buffalo in this part of the Park and they should be carefully checked for Yellow-billed Oxpeckers. Also inspect any bird perched in a dead tree - it may be a Dickinson's Kestrel.

Shingwedzi
The main attraction for birds at Shingwedzi is the Kanniedood Dam, just east of the camp. While most of man's activities have had a negative impact on the Park, the construction of dams to provide water for wildlife has created new aquatic habitats. Waterbirds were relatively scarce before dams were built, and many species common elsewhere were seldom - if ever - recorded. Now dams attract White-winged and Whiskered terns, Black-winged Stilt, Red-winged Pratincole, Greater Painted Snipe, a variety of waders, Lesser Jacana, Pygmy Goose, Glossy Ibis, Knob-billed and White-faced ducks and Thick-billed Weaver.

To the east of the main road north and south of Shingwedzi are plains usually characterized by shrub knobthorn and mopane interspersed with larger trees such as marula. They have a well-developed grass layer, so this is where to look for grassland species such as bustards, francolins and quails. In summer, with luck, the migrant Pallid and Montagu's harriers can be seen coursing low over the plains. Flat-topped umbrella thorns provide nesting sites for Lappet-faced Vultures and Secretarybirds, while shrub knobthorns are favoured by colonial nesters - the queleas and Wattled Starlings. A breeding colony of queleas is a spectacle in itself: the pulsating activity of the small birds and their presence in vast numbers attract a variety of raptors, particularly Steppe and Lesser Spotted eagles.

An hour or two spent wandering around the Shingwedzi restcamp is likely to produce Bennett's Woodpecker, Mourning Dove, Collared Palm Thrush, Red-headed Weaver and Cut-throat Finch.

On the S50 gravel road south to Letaba, the Nshawu Dam usually has something of interest to birders, and beyond it the Kondlanjovo plain (about 12 kilometres north of Letaba) and the Malopanyana and Middelvlei windmills are worth a little time. Secretarybirds and Kori Bustards are often seen striding through the grass, and closer examination of the plain may reveal Rufous-naped, Red-capped and Sabota larks. In wetter summers, when there is good grass cover, there is even a chance of seeing Montagu's and Pallid harriers.

Letaba and Olifants
Well situated for a number of good birding localities, Letaba gives easy access to both the Letaba and Olifants rivers and a few very good dams. In the camp itself Natal Robins are resident and can often be seen in the dense shrubbery. In winter, at sunset, large numbers of Red-billed Oxpeckers fly in to roost in the tall mlala palms at the entrance to the restaurant, and at sunrise and sunset throughout the year hundreds of Helmeted Guineafowl congregate on the sandbanks in front of the camp to drink. An African Fish Eagle pair has become very tame and the birds are often seen perching in the trees on the river front virtually inside the camp. More abundant are the Red-winged Starlings and Mourning Doves which have colonized the area.

Many loop roads along the Letaba and Olifants rivers give good access to these watercourses. White-crowned Plovers are common on the sandbanks along the Olifants River, but strangely enough not along the Letaba. Goliath and other herons are often seen along the rivers, and it is worth checking the swallows and swifts for Grey-rumped Swallow, Brown-throated Martin and Horus Swift.

Both the Mingerhout and Engelhard dams are good spots for birding, and the latter in particular can be rewarding. It is conveniently close to Letaba restcamp, there are access roads on both its banks, and there is a new hide on the dam's northern shore. Red-winged Pratincoles have bred right next to the road along the southern bank of the dam in early summer. A wide variety of waterbirds forage along the sand- and mudbanks, and African Open-billed Storks, African Spoonbills and the larger herons are nearly always present.

The high-water bridge over the Letaba River shelters hundreds of Little Swifts, and in summer bats roost under its arch in vast numbers. At sunrise and sunset a Bat Hawk may be seen chasing the bats, and occasionally one of the other small raptors, such as Gabar Goshawk, European Hobby or even Wahlberg's Eagle, may join the hunt for both bats and swifts.
If you are entering or leaving the Park at the Phalaborwa Gate, it is worthwhile stopping at the Masorini open-air museum, not just to look at its interesting displays, but also to observe Mocking and Familiar chats.

Like Letaba, Olifants restcamp has well-developed gardens and trees and is a good place to spend a few hours watching African Yellow-bellied Bulbuls and Red-winged Starlings, among others. Birds in the riverbed can be seen from the verandah in front of the restaurant, although at some distance. Saddle-billed Storks nest below the camp and Black Storks on the cliffs a few kilometres downstream; the latter can often be seen flying to and from these cliffs. Bats are common around the camp at sunset in summer, and they attract a variety of raptors including Gabar Goshawk, European Hobby and occasionally Bat Hawk.

Skukuza
Also a good place to spend quality birdwatching time, Skukuza Camp has many large trees and well-established lawns. The birds here are those of the Lowveld riparian forest and include Purple-crested Lourie, Yellow-fronted Tinker Barbet, Heuglin's, Natal, African White-throated and Eastern Bearded robins, and Scarlet-chested, Marico, White-bellied and Collared sunbirds. African Green Pigeons have become very tame, and African Palm Swifts have taken to nesting on buildings.

Bats are plentiful at Skukuza, too, in summer and they attract European Hobbies and Bat Hawks as they do elsewhere. Up to six European Hobbies at a time have been recorded chasing bats at sunset. The Skukuza section of the Sabie River is one of the few places in the Park where the African Goshawk occurs, and it can be seen performing its early morning display. It also hunts bats at sunrise and sunset. The low-level bridge over the Sabie offers the best opportunity in the Park for Half-collared Kingfisher, African Finfoot and African Black Duck.

On the access road to the nursery is a large dam on which a bird hide has been built. The static water level of the dam, kept full because it provides the emergency water supply for the camp, does not encourage waders, but African Darters and White-breasted and Reed cormorants are nearly always present, and African Rail has been seen from the hide. Flocks of Red Bishop and Thick-billed Weaver nest in the bulrushes fringing the dam and can easily be seen from the lookout point. The dam has also been a favoured locality for Osprey.
Lower Sabie and Crocodile Bridge

These two camps are relatively close to the Mozambique coast and some of the species associated with the coastal strip, such as Wattle-eyed Flycatcher and Blue-throated Sunbird, move up the Sabie and Crocodile rivers into the Park from time to time. The gardens of both camps have many aloes and when these are in bloom they attract a host of sunbirds, starlings, bulbuls and Eastern Black-headed Orioles.

There are two dams in the immediate vicinity of Lower Sabie. The first is in the river right in front of the camp, but as the water level does not fluctuate due to the permanent supply from the river, this is not a particularly good birding site. However, the overflow from the dam attracts some fish-eating species, in particular Goliath and Green-backed herons. The second dam is only half a kilometre to the west of the camp gate and is an excellent spot for storks such as Black, Woolly-necked, African Open-billed, Yellow-billed and Marabou.

To the north-west of Lower Sabie White-crowned Plover is regularly recorded at the Nkuhlu picnic spot, the only place south of the Olifants River where it occurs. The plains areas to the north and south of the camp are good for Kori Bustard, Red-crested and Black-bellied korhaans and Ostrich and, if the veld has been burned or overgrazed, for Lesser Black-winged Plover and Temminck's Courser. Swainson's Francolin is common on these plains, as are the quails - Harlequin and Common, and the Kurrichane Buttonquail - although you will be lucky to see them as they seldom emerge from the long grass.

The tarred road between Lower Sabie and Crocodile Bridge cuts through the very dense 'Gommondwane Bush' which is the haunt of the small leaf-gleaners. Check bird parties for Burnt-necked Eremomela, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Stierling's Barred Warbler and others. The new S130 gravel road gives access to a number of good pans which are of interest when full and have been known to harbour Striped Crake.

Some of the Park's rarer birds can be seen in the Crocodile Bridge area as it is the northern limit for certain South African species. Purple-banded Sunbird has been recorded a few times, Golden-rumped Tinker Barbet has often been seen in the camp itself as well as nearby, and small numbers of Black-bellied Starling occur along the Crocodile River.

TRAVELLER'S ADVISORY
When to go
Birding in the Kruger National Park is good throughout the year, but even better between October and April when the migrants are present. These are the very hot and wet summer months; winter is cooler and drier, and more rewarding for viewing game.

How to get there
For motorists there are major routes from Gauteng to all the Park's entrance gates: via Pietersburg and Louis Trichardt to Punda Maria in the north; via Pietersburg and Tzaneen to Phalaborwa; via Witbank, Lydenburg and Acornhoek to Orpen Gate and the central region; via Witbank, Nelspruit and Hazyview to the Paul Kruger Gate, Skukuza and the southern Park; and via Witbank and Nelspruit on the N4 to the Malelane and Crocodile Bridge gates in the south.

There are direct flights daily from Johannesburg International Airport to Skukuza, where it is possible to hire a car. Private aircraft can also land at Skukuza, if permission is obtained beforehand.

Getting around
Speed limits inside the Park are 50 km/h on tarred and gravel roads, and 20 km/h in the camps. Travelling hours vary with the season, but in general camp gates are opened half an hour after dawn and closed half an hour before dusk. The times are given at the camp entrances and are strictly enforced. Between November and January camp gates open at 04h30 to give visitors an opportunity to see the Park's night birds. The opening and closing times of the Park entrance gates also vary according to the season, but are similar to those of the camp gates.

Where to stay
Choose from 24 restcamps, ranging from the large, bustling Skukuza (complete with airstrip, Avis car hire, bank and auto-teller, post office, workshops, medical facilities, plant nursery and the Stevenson-Hamilton Memorial Library) to small private and bushveld camps. The main camps (i.e. all those except the private and bushveld camps) have shops, licensed restaurants, cafeterias and petrol supplies, and some also have swimming pools. Private camps must be booked en bloc (up to about 18 people), but individual bookings can be made for huts in bushveld camps. With no shops, restaurants or fuel supplies, both these types of camp tend to be quieter and more secluded than the main camps.

The accommodation ranges from luxury houses and self-catering cottages (with or without kitchens or bathrooms) to furnished tents and camping sites.

What to take
Definitely binoculars and bird book(s)! Also, warm clothing for winter evenings and night drives; a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen (especially if you are going on a trail); mammal, reptile, insect and plant guides; camera. The shops in the main camps stock most essentials, such as food, medicines, toiletries, magazines, film, snacks and cool drinks.

Birding guides
Field Guide to the Birds of the Kruger National Park by Ian Sinclair and Ian Whyte (Struik Publishers) is an excellent companion on any visit to the Park. Checklists of Kruger Park birds are also available and can be bought prior to your visit or at shops in the main camps. Other field guides to southern African birds - Roberts', Newman's or Sasol - as well as birdcall tapes such as those produced by Guy Gibbon will, of course, be very useful too.

Wilderness trails
For that 'get back to nature' experience - not to mention exciting birding opportunities - you can't do better than a three-night, two-day trail. Guided by two rangers, you and up to seven others can explore the wilderness surrounding one of seven base camps that are located far from roads and in different parts of the Park. These trails are popular and you should book well in advance.

Health precautions
Malaria is endemic in the Park, with peak transmission between December and May. Visitors are advised to take a combination of a chloroquine drug and a daily dose of Palud- rine, and to use an effective insect repellent.
It is safe to drink water from taps inside the huts, but not from garden taps. Bottled water is available in the shops. Enquire about first-aid facilities at the reception office at each camp. There is a doctor at Skukuza.

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