Great Migration Updates

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Western Serengeti (Grumeti River Camp) (6/9/2004)

Our trip from Grumeti River Camp to the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge was slowed somewhat by the mass of the migration right on the road around Seronera in the Serengeti. The majority of them were feeding and only a few lines were heading steadily west. We proceeded to Ngorongoro Crater Lodge and on the way saw many herds of zebra, Grants & Thomsons gazelles, hyenas and a herd of about 40 elephant.

On the way back to Grumeti River Camp the next day we saw a pride of lion and another herd of about 20 elephant. Once we got to Seronera and started heading back west to Grumeti, the migration had spread out from just west of Seronera all the way to the beginning of the Musabi Plain which is about 8 to 10 km. It's absolutely amazing to see because where ever you look there are wildebeest! We are hoping that they will all regroup on Musabi Plain were the viewing will be spectacular.

They seem to be moving very quickly, and we are expecting them at Grumeti a lot earlier this year.

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Western Serengeti (Grumeti River Camp) (6/4/2004)

The Migration was seen in the Seronera area on Monday with the tail end of the Migration south of Seronera. The main body seems to have moved on in the direction of the western Serengeti but has not yet been seen on the main road to Grumeti, so it is thought that they must be in the hill region.

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Grumeti River Camp (Western Serengeti) (3/8/2004)

On the morning of March 2nd I was driving from Ngorongoro Crater Lodge to Grumeti River Camp. The short grass plains between the Crater and the border of the Serengeti were very dry and dusty and I could see that no rain had fallen for quite some time. As I reached the border between the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and the Serengeti National Park I saw a sight that I have not yet seen in all my years of driving this route. The whole area between the Serengeti border and The Nabi Hill Gate was covered with wildebeest. From East to West, as far as the eye could see, the plains were covered with these magnificent animals with a few zebra scattered in-between. This was the main migration herd - I estimate at least 1.3 million animals! As I drove on through Nabi Gate I found an enormous herd of zebra, probably around 150 000, all heading towards the Simba Kopjes. This was an amazing sight which I will remember for the rest of my life!

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Serengeti, Klein's Camp (2/16/2004)

On the 7th February I found another excuse to drive to Ngorongoro Crater Lodge. As usual quite an interesting drive; the Serengeti is drier than I thought for this year. The Olduvai area is also dry even though as you start climbing the escarpment of the Ngorongoro Crater the landscape turns to green.

And so just before I reached Naabi gate and bid farewell to the Serengeti National Park .. at least for a while, I found a herd of about 500,000 wildebeest and zebra. They looked relaxed and somewhat resting. Indeed they have done quite a long walk and survived a lot, they deserve it! I noted that their direction is set to head south west as soon as they resume their journey, south west towards Ndutu area reassures me with dark rainy clouds signaling and beckoning them. A few kilometers ahead there is another small group of about 200,000 but these are not resting, they cross the road furiously towards the south western side, they are in a hurry and determined to cover a few miles that day.

A group of 18 ostriches catch my eye as they seem to be escorting these great travelers of the plains. A pride of eight lions sprawling on a termite mound observes a moving heard of wildebeest and zebra nearby. They seem not to even try to avoid this pride, but rather display the kind of attitude..." it doesn't matter anymore". A hundred yards away, I observe three hyenas pulling on what could be the remains of a spinal cord of a once athletic tomy gazelle, while another hyena walks slowly and lazily into the golden azures of the horizon.

Storming out of the east, I meet an old friend driving from the east around Moru copies and he informs me that there are also big herds of the migration there as well.

It's a lovely trip this time of the year and for those who have tried it, surely an ancient dust of Africa has settled into their souls! Once this happens to you, the magic connects you with this part of the earth.. longing always to return!!

Karibu, everything is moving in display, and the Greatest Show on Earth awaits you!!

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Serengeti, Klein's Camp (1/22/2004)

Another rare privilege awards me a drive from Ngorongoro Crater Lodge to Klein's Camp. It is January and I am ready with my note book to record all I see about the great migration movements.

It takes me six hours to drive from Ngorongoro Crater Lodge to Klein's Camp. It has not been raining for a while on the Southern Plains of the Serengeti and it is still dusty and the grass yellowish.

Millions of birds and a variety of animals on the way but no sight of all those big herds of migrating wildebeest and zebra. I counted about 2000 zebras and 500 wildebeest during the drive. The Northern Serengeti and the area around Klein's as well as the Mara are greener than the south even though I did not see a herd there either.

Certainly, these big herds have not perished from the surface of the earth,they are somewhere lavishing life in the bush but definitely not in the normal route they take and are definitely not having babies at the moment in the Southern Plains.

The news we have though is this great show might at any moment be around Kusini area and heading to Ndutu area...

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Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) (1/13/2004)

The migration of wildebeest seems to be heading towards Ngorongoro Crater at last. They are now on the move at Ndutu, part of Ngorongoro Conservation area (NCA). I saw big herds of wildebeest and zebra on the plains and the swamp area around Lake Ndutu and the acacia woodland.

This big herd has settled because of the abundance of water and good grazing.
In the Southern Serengeti, close to the NCA boundaries it is still very dry.

Lots of predators are moving with the herd: Lions, spotted hyena, cheetahs.... However, I saw only one calf. It should be the time for the females to drop their young. Zebras & gazelles have started already.

If the rain comes toward the NCA, then the wildebeest will start moving toward us...

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Masai Mara (Kichwa Tembo) (1/12/2004)

At Kichwa we wish a happy and prosperous new year to all.

Notably on our side, we are celebrating the New Year in style with the return of the Great Migration in to the Mara from the western corridor, following the foot of the Oloololo Escarpment towards Kichwa Plains and many others curving their way towards the Mara River. Most of those which crossed yesterday were zebras heading tirelessly in the direction of Musiara Plains in the Greater Mara. This is all unusually wonderful and a Great New Year Gift for Migration lovers. One can really have fun this time of year as the animals are calving, migrating and river-crossing with the calves! crossing with the calves!

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