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November 28, 2004

Wilderness Safaris in Southern Africa promote Conservation

South Africa sounds loud call of wild

Long excluded from parks, blacks are being wooed in drive to educate new conservationists.

DENNILTON, South Africa -- With trepidation evident in his face, Josiah Phalane reached a wavering hand out and touched the spotted tail in front of him, then jumped back as Byron, a tame cheetah, turned around to take a look at him as well.

"I have never even heard about animals like this," Phalane said in wonderment, once out of range of Byron's claws. "It's very exciting."

Phalane, a small-town kid with dreadlocks, always dreamed of being an airline pilot. But after meeting Byron during a program to expose South African youth to wildlife conservation efforts, the 19-year-old was rethinking his plans.

"I would never have even thought about it," he said when asked whether he had considered a career in conservation.

But now, "I would be very interested," he said. "I like this."

Conservation in South Africa, like in many African countries, long has been dominated by whites. Most game reserves were created during colonial rule, often by displacing black people. In South Africa, blacks were barred from visiting the country's parks during 40 years of apartheid rule.

The result is that many black Africans have little experience with and feel little connection to wildlife.

Conservation is widely seen as an elitist pursuit. White-run campaigns to save species have alienated legions of poor people who feel they matter less than the animals. In South Africa, a nation with one of Africa's best systems of game parks, most children have never seen a wild animal, except on television.

"People think of reserves as places where you remove the black man, put in a fence, put in animals and then people come and appreciate them," said Mantlako Sebaka, a marketing manager with South Africa's national parks service. "Black people don't appreciate that."

That reality presents an enormous risk for the future of conservation in Africa. Millions of poverty-stricken people look across game park fences and see land ripe for farming, while African leaders struggle to defend conservation spending when faced with so many other pressing social needs, environmental officials say.

Mandela sounds alarm

Many people see parks as "meaningless or even costly," warned former South African President Nelson Mandela in a speech at the World Parks Congress meeting in Durban last year. "In South Africa, it is time to break with this legacy."

That is now slowly happening as government conservation officials, teachers, private safari operators and international wildlife officials begin leading a broad campaign to boost black involvement with and support for conservation.

In South Africa, the national parks system in conjunction with the country's tourism agency is looking at ways to lure more blacks to game reserves.

Wilderness Safaris, a vacationtechnician.com partner, now plays host to local children for a week each year at several of its camps in Botswana, Namibia, Malawi and South Africa, and is opening a full-time wilderness camp for children on South Africa's southeast coast.

International conservation organizations such as the African Wildlife Foundation and the World Wildlife Fund provide scholarships and other funding to help educate a new generation of black conservationists.

And wildlife protection groups, such as the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Center near Pretoria, have begun taking wild cats into black schools in an effort to convince kids that animals are worth protecting.

"It's critical to do this," said Marilyn Hull, the manager of educational programs at De Wildt and handler for goodwill ambassador cheetah Byron, who visits several black schools a week. "We need to reach these children and get them involved."

Changing ideas about the importance of conservation isn't easy.

For most of the last century, conservation in South Africa has "appealed almost exclusively to the affluent, educated, mainly white minority," noted Farieda Khan, a University of Cape Town doctoral candidate.

But environmental officials are trying some creative ideas. Marketers at South Africa's national parks service have persuaded "Isidingo," one of South Africa's more popular soap operas, to film episodes in the country's national parks, with leading black characters ruing what they had missed by not visiting earlier.

The parks service also is working with schools to include conservation education as part of the core curriculum.

A divergent career path

"Conservation is not a traditional career for blacks, who aspire to be lawyers, doctors, politicians," said Patrick Bergin, president and CEO of the African Wildlife Foundation, based in Washington. But his organization and others, he said, are funding master's and doctoral work by promising black conservationists and "are looking for the next black Jane Goodall or Richard Leakey."

Leading international conservation groups also have acknowledged in recent years that conservation can no longer simply be about fencing endangered areas. Sustainable conservation, most say, involves ensuring that neighbors of protected areas get some economic benefit from parks, such as jobs.

There are already plenty of signs of progress. Communities neighboring some of the country's top game reserves are being offered the opportunity to run lodges and other accommodation in or near the parks.

Hector Magome, a black PhD, is head of conservation services for the South African national parks service. And Byron the cheetah and his handlers receive letters from a growing number of young big-cat fans.

"When I was growing up, people told me that animals like cheetahs should die, that they have no use," wrote one student. "But when they chose me to go and learn about cheetahs, I was happy. Thank you for coming to teach us about cheetahs. Now I know better than most people."

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July 05, 2004

Little Kulala Safari Report

Little Kuala Camp Namibia

Little Kulala Safari Report - June 2004

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The weather in June has been one which is definitely introducing the winter temperature especially in the late evening and early morning with our coldest night being 3 degrees!! The morning temperature in general was a bit kinder to us with a usual 10 degrees, but don't feel discouraged there are plenty of our guests still sleeping on our star beds looking at the stars. The temperature during the day is wonderful and comfortable ranging between 25 and 29 degrees.

Everybody is enjoying the closed vehicles on the morning to drive to Sossusvlei and the hike to Deadvlei and to conquer Big Daddy. Even with the nature drives one needs to remember to take some warm clothes along. Very exciting at the beginning of June we had the transit of Venus across the Sun and for a couple of hours in the morning everyone's noses were facing skywards looking at the sun with protective eclipse glasses, we are definitely ready for the next one.

Orion and the beautiful Saturn are not visible anymore but in the morning Venus is back in action as the morning star. Exciting constellations visible this month are Scorpio, Southern Cross and in the north we are able to see part of Orsa Major or better known as the Big Dipper.

Our little water hole has become increasingly popular with most, including daily visits from six resident ostrich; our big group of Oryx lead by an albino are coming to the water hole quite frequently and of course our faithful groups of springbok. More often in the evenings lately, we have been lucky with predator sightings including the Spotted Eagle owl, Jackals, however, our Spotted Hyaena are shy at the waterhole, we hear them most nights during their howling concerts. An unusual sighting this month was a Blacksmith Plover which found a home at our waterhole for two days.

Little Kulala is situated on a large private reserve, bordering the Namib Naukluft Park, in the heart of the Namib. The camp offers magnificent views of the famous red dunes of Sossusvlei, mountainous scenery and vast open plains.

Little Kulala has eight thatched and canvas chalets of Kulalas, each built on a wooden platform to provide maximum airflow. A popular option with outdoor enthusiasts is to sleep under the stars - mattresses are placed on private stargazing platform on top of each room.

The main lodge has a lounge, bar, dining area and plunge pool, with a view of the dunes. The verandah overlooks a waterhole. Early morning guided game drives to the spectacular dunes are through a private gate on the Tsauchab River.

Game drives and walks are also offered on the private reserve. Here, guests can enjoy incredible views, desert game and smaller desert fauna and flora. Another option, at an extra cost, is early morning ballooning, beginning at first light.

The 60-minute balloon safari offers a truly unique experience to soar silently above the magnificent sand dunes and desert - with a champagne breakfast served at your landing site.

On the edge of the oldest desert in the world, this is not a game rich area, however, whatever game we see is interesting and dramatised by the contrast between the desert and animals like Springbok, Gemsbok (Oryx) and Ostrich who manage to survive in these harsh conditions.
Night drives using spotlights often encounter small mammals such as Aardwolf, Bat Eared Fox, Hares and sometimes Spotted Hyenas

LOCATIONï¿½ Kulala is 350 km south of Windhoek and can easily be reached by sedan car.
ï¿½ The entrance is situated 17 km south of Sesriem on the road 826 (follow the signpost with arrows on the C36).

PRICING / CHILD POLICY
High Season: July to October
Shoulder Season: January to June & November to December
☼ Children over the age of 8 years are welcome

ACCOMMODATION
Number of units:
Eight chalets in total comprising:
ï¿½ 7 x "kulalas" each with twin beds (there are 4 extra beds available for children/triples)
ï¿½ 1 x family room which sleeps 5
ï¿½ 4 x tour leader/guides can be accommodated in rondavels
19 guests in total can be accommodated plus tour leaders

Chalet details:ï¿½ Each "kulala" is especially adapted to the unique desert conditions, built on a platform to ensure maximum airflow, thatch roof provide a cool respite from the sun
ï¿½ Ceiling fans ensure a breeze at all times.
ï¿½ All rooms are en-suite with shower, flush toilet and hand basin.
ï¿½ Each room has a private veranda with view of the majestic dunes without seeing the neighbours.
ï¿½ A private rooftop area on top of the bathroom gives guests the opportunity of spending a night under the magnificent night sky for which bedrolls are available.

CAMP DESCRIPTIONï¿½ The main lodge comprises of the reception, lounge, bar, dining room and veranda.
ï¿½ Thatch roofed
ï¿½ There is a swimming pool with shaded area if guests want to relax

GAME VIEWING
A water hole in front of the main building gives the opportunity to see Oryx, Springbok, Bat Eared Fox, Aardwolf, Ostrich and Jackals. Some Spotted Hyenas can be heard at night.

ACTIVITIESï¿½ Nature drives into the desert in 3 x 10 seater and 1 x 6 seater 4 x 4 vehicles
ï¿½ Walking Trails
ï¿½ Visits to Bushman painting sites
ï¿½ Visit to Sossusvlei and Sesriem
ï¿½ Balloon safaris (additional cost, even if guests are on Fully Inclusive rate. Closed 15 January to 15 February)
ï¿½ Horse riding safari (on request and at an additional cost)
ï¿½ The Scenic sundowner tour is one of the best scenic safaris in the Namib. This exclusive tour is ended with a Champagne sundowner.
ï¿½ Private vehicles can be booked at an additional cost, subject to availability.

SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE

Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.

05h00 - Wake Up

05h30 - Light breakfast is served

05h55 - Depart on Sossusvlei excursion
Full buffet brunch is served on the dunes
Return to Lodge

15h45 - Depart on afternoon activity

19h00 - Dinner at the Lodge

ELECTRICITY & WATERï¿½ Solar heating for hot water
ï¿½ 220v power is available in each kulala camp 24 hours a day
ï¿½ Video battery recharging facilities are available; please bring spare battery and adaptors.

DRINKS POLICY
Drinks on game drives and house-wine at dinner are included in the Fully Inclusive rate. All other drinks are excluded unless pre-arranged (for an extra cost all drinks can be included).

LAUNDRY POLICY
A daily laundry service is included in the nightly tariff.

EXTRAS PAYMENT
Payment can be affected by: Travellers' cheques, cash or Visa/MasterCard

FLYING / DRIVING TIMES
To/from Windhoek 1 hour 15 mins
To/from Swakopmund 1 hour

Self drive ï¿½ 5 hours from/to Windhoek (350 Km)
Self drive ï¿½ 6 hours from/to Swakopmund (380 Km)

AIRSTRIP DETAILS
Geluk Airstrip co-ordinates
S 24.40.6, E 015.48.1
Gravel surface
15 minutes from camp

GRATUITY SCHEDULE
The following is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards:

R 100 per guest per day. This will be divided up amongst the camp staff.

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Serra Cafema Safari Report

Serra Cafema

Serra Cafema Namibia Safari Report - June 04

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June has been a great month for Serra Cafema. We were very busy with the peak season starting. Our guests came from all over the world, from as far as New Zealand and as close as South Africa. Serra Cafema is a knock out for our guests, some saying they now no longer have to go to the moon, Serra Cafema is better.

The Himba tribe continues to amaze people. Even though not many of them have remained at the village, they still give the guests a good impression on how they live in this barren area. They really have such a rich culture, there is so much to learn from them.

We still have not had any rain, however, some of the animals are returning to the area. Temperatures have dropped somewhat in the mornings and evenings, however, the fireplace in the main area is very cozy and the best spot to warm up and relax after a long day out on the quad bikes. We are also getting more and more foggy mornings in camp, it sure makes getting out of bed very difficult.

The water level of the Kunene is going down quite rapidly, making the boat trips shorter and the crocodile viewing better with a 3 meter croc daily waiting at the rapids close to camp. The bird life is great. Night life has been booming with regular sightings of Black-backed Jackal and Brown Hyaena around camp.

Serra Cafema remains the best place to end your safari in Namibia, or even Botswana. After a hectic safari of getting up early in the mornings and being kept busy throughout the day, Serra Cafema is the spot to come and relax at. Our activities will also keep you busy, but the water in the late afternoons and evenings will sooth your soul back to normality.

Come see for yourselves how beautiful our dunes and mountains are, this is a little peace of heaven on earth.

Serra Cafema Camp is one of the most remote camps in all of Southern Africa and offers one of the most memorable experiences in Namibia. The small 16 bedded camp, whose only access is by aircraft, is located in the extreme north-west of Namibia and is further away from Namibia's capital city, Windhoek, than from Botswana's Okavango Delta.

Serra Cafema shares this region with the wonderful and colourful Himba people who are some of the last true nomadic people of Africa. The Kunene River is the only permanent source of water and creates an oasis along its banks surrounded by rugged mountains and sand dunes.

The camp is situated under big shady Albida trees overlooking the Kunene River and comprises 8 canvas and thatched chalets that are raised off the ground, each with its own en-suite bathroom. Other facilities include a small swimming pool, dining room and bar. One goes to sleep at night to the gurgling water sounds from the rapid just downstream from camp.

In stark contrast, during the day, guests spend their time exploring one of the planet's driest deserts. Activities include enjoying the breath-taking landscape scenes with Springbok, Ostrich and Oryx dotted here and there, traversing the sand dunes in 4x4 Landrovers and boating on the Kunene River where we can watch for the Kunene crocodiles.

Walking in the remote mountain and river valleys are also a highlight. Serra Cafema is often visited by the native Ovahimba families who live in the nearby vicinity, which gives guests the opportunity to learn about their lifestyle and traditions.

Guests can get into some of the massive sand dunes to the west of the camp.

Game viewing in this area is limited to large herds of Oryx and springbok in the Hartman's valley. The Kunene River has a large population of Nile Crocodiles. Cinderella Waxbills, Rufous Bellied Palmtrush and Grey Kestrels are three species of bird not seen anywhere else in southern Africa, Palm nut vultures are seen occasionally as well as a number of the Namibian endemics. There are also a number of endemic reptiles.

LOCATION- Situated on the southern bank of the Kunene River
- At the foot of the Hartman's valley.

PRICING / CHILD POLICY
High Season: July to October
Shoulder Season: January to June & November to December
Children over the age of 8 years are welcome

ACCOMMODATION
Number of tents:
7 tents comprising of:
- 1 double tent with king size bed
- 4 twin tents
- 1 family tent
- 2 en-suite guide / pilot rooms.
This camp can accommodate 15 guests (if including a family) plus tour leaders.

Tent details- En-suite bathrooms with indoor and outside shower.
- Private viewing decks overlooking the Kunene river valley and the Serra Cafema hills.
- Overhead fan
- Large mosquito nets
- Large luxuriously appointed Meru tents which are raised off the ground

CAMP DESCRIPTION- Situated under big, shady Albia trees with uninterrupted views of the Kunene river valley.
- The camp is elevated on wooden decks with walkways to each tent.
- Small pool
- Dining area and bar

GAME VIEWING
Game viewing in this area is limited to large herds of Oryx and springbok in the Hartman's valley. The Kunene River has a large population of Nile Crocodiles. Cinderella Waxbills, Rufous Bellied Palmtrush and Grey Kestrels are three species of bird not seen anywhere else in southern Africa, Palm nut vultures are seen occasionally as well as a number of the Namibian endemics. There are also a number of endemic reptiles.

ACTIVITIES- Nature drives in Hatman's valley in open land rovers.
- Traversing the sand dunes on quad bikes
- Boating on the Kunene River
- Walks in the valleys and at the waterfalls
- Visit to a working Himba village
- Full day outings with picnic lunch

SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE

Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.

06h00 - Wake up

07h00 - Full breakfast

07h30 - Depart on full day outing which can include walking, visiting a nearby village, quad biking or boating on the Kunene River. A picnic lunch is included

19h00 - A three course dinner is served in camp
Stargazing

ELECTRICITY AND WATER- 12v Power with facility to charge video battery
- Water is solar heated
- 12v power for lighting and fans in the tents

DRINKS POLICY
Drinks on game drives and house-wine at dinner are included. All other drinks are excluded unless pre-arranged (for an extra cost all drinks can be included).

LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service is included in the nightly tariff

EXTRAS PAYMENT
Payment can be affected by cash, travellers' cheques or Visa/MasterCard

FLYING TIME
Windhoek 3hrs 20 mins
Swakopmund 2hrs 30 mins

AIRSTRIP DETAILS
Hartmann Valley and following are the airstrip details:
Latitude: S17 22 37.0
Longitude: E012 15 22.0
Altitude: 1900ft
Length: 850m
Heading: 02/20

GRATUITY SCHEDULE
The following is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards:

R100 per guest per day. This will be divided up amongst the camp staff.

SUGGESTED LUGGAGE LIST

1. Good quality sunglasses - preferably polarized. Tinted fashion glasses are not good in strong light
2. Sun hat
3. Golf-shirts, T-shirts and long-sleeved cotton shirts
4. Shorts/skirts
5. Long trousers/slacks
6. Track suit
7. More formal attire for your stay at prestigious city hotels or on one of the luxury trains.
8. Underwear (sports bra recommended on game drives as the roads can be bumpy and uneven) and socks
9. Good walking shoes (running/tennis shoes are fine)
10. Sandals
11. Swimming costume
12. Warm winter jersey
13. Warm Anorak or Parka and scarf / gloves for the cold winter months (May to September)
14. Light rain gear for summer months (late November to April)
15. Camera equipment and plenty of film
16. If you wear contact lenses, we recommend that you bring along a pair of glasses in case you get irritation from the dust
17. BINOCULARS - ESSENTIAL (Night vision binoculars are not essential but highly recommended if your safari includes night activities)
18. Newman's bird book if you are a keen birder
19. Personal toiletries (basic amenities supplied by most establishments)
20. Malaria tablets (if applicable)
21. Moisturizing cream & suntan lotion
22. Insect repellent e.g. Tabard, Rid, Jungle Juice, etc
23. Basic medical kit (aspirins, plasters, Immodium, antiseptic cream and Anti-histamine cream etc)
24. Tissues/"Wet Ones"
25. Visas, tickets, passports, money etc
26. Waterproof/dustproof bags/cover for your cameras.

Please note that bright colours and white are NOT advised whilst on safari. Please remember that there may be a restriction on luggage limits on your safari - please ensure that you have the details from your agent according to your itinerary and ask your agent ahead of time if you would like details on the feasibility and costs of taking excess luggage with you on any of these restricted luggage safaris.

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Makalolo Zimbabwe Safari Report

Makalolo Plains Camp

Makalolo Camp Zimbabwe Safari Report - June 2004

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Either we've all acclimatised to the Hwange weather or Mother Nature is saving a cold surprise for later! The winter weather has been quite bearable with minimum temperatures ranging between 3 and 12 degrees Celsius. Overall, these sunny days have boasted a comfortable average of 27 degrees Celsius and the pleasant temperatures can be attributed to the cloud cover that has been keeping the warmth in. However, after sunset, the temperatures drop quite rapidly and it is necessary to wrap up! Some guests have donned their bath robes on the morning and evening drives and have started a new fashion trend at Makalolo!

On 8 June we witnessed the transition of Venus with the sun - looking through welding helmet glass; Venus was seen as a small dot on the lower right hand side of the sun's circumference. Considering the last one was seen 1000 years ago, it was quite a highlight for our young generation!

False Mopane and Zambezi Teak appear to be the only trees resilient enough to withstand the colder temperatures and proudly display their green foliage amongst the surrounding tones of brown, tan, khaki and yellow. The abundance of dry grass carpeting the plains could be a potential fire hazard this season, which our pans seem well prepared for! The bush is brittle and thinning out gradually as awesome herds of buffalo and elephants plough and mow through the desiccated maze of moisture less vegetation. Seas of skeletal dried wild hibiscus will hopefully be eradicated in the process, as they are making the landscape look rather unkempt.

Some of our guests had the privilege of experiencing the big six all in one day, plus wild dogs and honey badgers thrown in for good measure! Our most memorable sighting of the month was that of a very relaxed rhino cow and calf captured at Little Mbiza amongst the tall golden grass in the soft light just before sunset. Foster and his guests did an approach on a male rhino whilst on a walk at Mbiza and everyone found that rather exhilarating! Leopard sightings are improving drastically and most of them have been close encounters! Most sightings have been on the way back into camp from evening game drives and have been on the road which junctions the road to our compound - obviously, this is a young male clambering around familiar territory which is being seen on a regular basis!

Wild dogs have once again hit the headlines as our resident pack of 5 has been sighted hunting and killing both impala and kudu at Ngweshla. One misty morning, we heard the cry of a young animal in front of tent 9, and upon investigation, discovered the dogs devouring the body a young kudu cow. After eating their full, they sunned themselves at the pan in front of camp for a few hours.

During an evening of dinner table conversation, our guides debated the size of honey badgers! It was very ironic that on the following morning's transfer to the airstrip, a honey badger was nearly flattened when it ran onto the road in front of the vehicle! That same evening, a pair of honey badgers was seen at Somavundla and apparently this had been the best honey badger sighting for Doug Kew. After having not seen honey badgers in our concession for some time, as well as the guides contesting whose size was more accurate, it made for fantastic first hand experience for our guests!

Lion sightings have been poor, due to the fact that our former resident pride now belongs to Linkwasha! Apparently the new male in or concession (aka Vuka) has been lingering around Little Mak. Though his spoor has been seen on the road on several occasions, he himself has been extremely elusive but Lion Research has confirmed that he is definitely in the Little Mak area. On an evening drive to Mbiza, game drive guests and guides discovered the fresh carcass of a young collared lioness. The remains were brought back to camp for research purposes and it is believed that the 18 month old lioness was killed by the eight young male cubs that are part of the pride prowling around Linkwasha, intending on forming their own coalition/s. Foster recovered the skull from this young lioness and has put it on display in our living area!

Elephant and buffalo activity have been outstanding! Elephants are congregating in large herds around various mineral licks and water holes and are still amazing our guests with their frequent visits to the swimming pool for a quick drink. Valentine awed guests on an afternoon drive with the sighting of a baby buffalo that had been born just minutes before! They witnessed the mother buffalo eating the after birth!

Some good probability sightings for the month have been as follows: 100% for elephant, giraffe, impala, black-backed jackal, springhare, wildebeest and zebra. Aardwolf 3%, bat-eared fox 13%, lesser bush baby 3%, bush buck 3%, buffalo 87%, caracal 3%, cheetah 7%, eland 27%, genet 7%, honey badger 7%, hyaena 7%, hunting dog 10%, side-striped jackal 43%, kudu 53%, leopard 20%, lion 17%, rhino 13%, roan 13% and wildcat 3%.

Red-billed francolins have topped the charts this month with their breeding behaviour! We are seeing new little clutches of chicks running around camp almost on a weekly basis! Twice during the month, the guinea fowls in front of camp have had close encounters with a Martial Eagle! One morning the guinea fowls went into a raucous flutter as a Martial swooped down onto the flustered flock and connected with a guinea fowl in mid-flight! Fortunately for the guinea fowl it was a near miss and it escaped unscathed, bar a few feathers which we retrieved for display purposes! The second time it happened, the guinea fowls had wisened up to the Martial's tactics and made for the trees! A little banded goshawk was seen drinking in the bird bath outside the dining area on a very cold winter's morning. We spotted a juvenile crowned crane waking across the plains at Ngweshla with both parents. We were rather excited with this finding because it proved that our familiar friends' nest had withstood the abundance of water during the rainy season and they had a young one to prove it!

Makalolo Plains is situated in a remote area within the vast Hwange National Park and is one of the few camps built within the Park. Hwange is legendary for its wonderful array of wildlife and massive herds of Elephant and Buffalo - especially in the dryer winter months.

There are excellent opportunities to view game from open 4x4 vehicles during the early morning and late afternoon, when game is most active. Foot safaris are also offered, and are accompanied by an armed professional guide. The camp is set in a unique location, overlooking the Samavundhla Pan - which attracts game in good concentrations.

The entire camp is raised on wooden boardwalks and platforms, giving guests excellent views over the waterhole and floodplain in front of the camp. Accommodation consists of nine large, comfortable tented rooms with en-suite shower, toilet and basin - all with hot and cold running water.

There is an outdoor shower for those who enjoy showering under the stars. The lighting in the rooms is battery powered - ensuring peace and quiet in camp. Meals are enjoyed in the separate raised dining area.

There is also a lounge, pub and plunge pool. The camp has hides overlooking the waterhole, which allow guests to enjoy close up game viewing.

NOTED GAME VIEWING

Summer sees the large antelope herds migrate onto the plains, closely followed by their predators. Elephants, Buffalo, Sable, Roan, Giraffe, Wildebeest, Impala and sometimes even Gemsbok can be seen here. The area is one of the best for predators - Lion, Leopard, Wild Dog and Cheetah are regularly sighted, along with the smaller African Wild Cat, Serval, Honey Badger, Civet and Hyena. The area has a number of waterholes which attract game in large concentrations, especially during the winter months. Guests can sit at a waterhole and watch the passing parade of animals as they come to quench their thirst. For the bird watcher, Makalolo offers a wonderful range of birding, from Miombo species right through to the Kalahari species.

LOCATION
o Situated in the South Eastern section of Hwange National Park on a private concession.

PRICING
High Season: 1 July - 31 October
Low Season: 1 January - 30 June and November/December

ACCOMMODATION
There are nine tents consisting of:
Seven twin bedded tents (can be set up as double beds if required)
One honeymoon tent, and one tour leader or guest tent.
This camp can accommodate 16 guests and one tour leader or 18 guests, if all in one group, with tour leader in basic staff accommodation.
Sold to a maximum of 16 guests on a FIT basis

Tent details:
o Luxury tents raised off the ground on teak decking
o En-suite bathrooms within tents with showers
o Fans
o Tents have outside showers
o Honeymoon tent has an outside bath
o Wooden doors, and no zips
o Mosquito proof
o Gas radiator heaters in winter months
o Soaps, shampoos and insect repellents are supplied in each room

CAMP DESCRIPTION
The camp is built on a raised teak platform under thatch overlooking the Somavundhla plain, and set in a stand of teak trees.
o Telescope for on-deck viewing
o Plunge pool on raised deck
o Curio shop
o Conference facilities available on request, if group books out whole camp o Dining room, lounge and pub are thatched
o Library
o Game viewing platform
o Bunker hide in pan in front of camp

GAME VIEWING
There are Lion, large herds of Elephant, Buffalo, Hyena, Giraffe, Sable, Wildebeest, Impala, Waterbuck and Reed Buck.
The highlight here is the large open plains, where one can see large quantities of animals. Summer game viewing is excellent with Wildebeest, Zebra and Eland found in abundance on the plains. In winter the water holes are magnets for Elephant and on some days each water hole can get up to 1000 Elephants coming down to drink.

ACTIVITIES
o Game drives in 2x7-seater and 2x9-seater vehicles (wind-resistant ponchos are provided during winter months)
o Walking safaris with armed professional guide
o Bunker hide underground in front of camp next to waterholes
o Hides in the trees overlooking waterhole

SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE

Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.

summer/winter
05h00/06h00 - Wake Up
05h30/06h30 - Light breakfast
06h00/07h00 - Game drive, canoeing, boating, walk with drinks and snacks
10h30/11h00 - Brunch/lunch
- Option to rest or sit at hides
15h30/15h30 - Afternoon tea
16h00/16h00 - Game drive / walk with drinks and snacks
20h00/20h00 - Dinner under the stars or under thatch

ELECTRICITY & WATER
o Camp has 220v generator-powered electricity, power is stored in 12v batteries which power the lights and fans in the rooms
o Video camera batteries can be charged while out on a game drive
o Water for showers etc is heated by solar power

DRINKS POLICY
All drinks are included in the nightly tariff, except for imported champagne and hard to obtain drinks such as Bourbon.

LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service, weather permitting, included in the nightly tariff.

EXTRAS PAYMENT
Curios and/or tips/gratuities will be billed to the tent number and settled on check-out. Payment can be made in cash (US$), travellers' cheques and Visa or MasterCard credit cards.
If guests wish to tip, our recommended tipping schedule is as follows:
Guides - US$5.00 per person per day
General camp staff - US$3.00 per person per day
Specialist guides (if applicable) - US$10.00 per person per day. This is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards.

FLYING TIMES
to/from Hwange Airport - 20 minutes
Victoria Falls to the camp's strip - 55 minutes
Makalolo to Giraffe Springs - 30 minutes

AIR STRIP DETAILS
Linkwasha airstrip is located 30 minutes' drive from camp.
Air strip co-ordinates: S19.07.93, E27.12.79
1000m long, grass strip, can take King Airs 90's, provided that they have high flotation landing gear.

HEALTH
There are a few basic health matters that require care and attention. We are obviously not medical practitioners and the following points are recommended guidelines only. Please consult your doctor and also check with your health department prior to departure for any changes in health regulations.

a) Malaria
Malaria within South Africa's borders is only prevalent in a few areas. It is encountered mainly in northern and eastern Mpumalanga, northern Kwa-Zulu Natal, and the border areas of the Northern and North West Provinces. Malaria is also common in the lower lying areas of Swaziland. It can also be found throughout Mozambique and Zimbabwe, and much of Botswana. Northern Namibia is also a malaria area. Should you be visiting these areas malaria precautions are advised.

Malaria transmission is at its highest during the warmer and wetter months of November through to April. From May through to October the risks of acquiring malaria are reduced.

The malaria parasite requires a human host in order to complete its life cycle. In most cases, our camps are situated in remote, unpopulated areas, so the chances of contracting malaria are very slim. Nonetheless, it is worth taking preventative measures.

Both chloroquine-resistant and normal strains of malaria are prevalent in Africa. Malaria is transmitted by a very small percentage of female Anopheles mosquitoes. They are only active in the early evening and throughout the night, at the times when one is usually sleeping or sitting around the campfire.

MALARIA prophylactic recommendations for southern African travellers:
Expert opinion differs regarding the best approach to malaria prophylaxis. It is important to bear in mind that malaria may be contracted despite chemoprophylaxis, especially in areas where chloroquine resistance has been reported. Please remember that the best insurance is the preventative kind: avoid being bitten by using mosquito repellents liberally. Wear long-sleeved shirts and trousers/slacks in the evenings. If staying in a bungalow or tent, spray with an insecticide like DOOM to kill any mosquitoes that may have flown into your room. Mosquito coils are effective.

If you become ill on your return, while still on prophylaxis or even once you have stopped taking them, ensure that your doctor does everything to establish that your illness is not malaria.

Malaria is not a serious problem if you are sensible and take basic precautions. There have been very few cases of our guests contracting malaria during our 19 years to date, of operation.

b) Water
It is very important that you drink plenty of water especially during the warmer months. It is generally recommended that guests drink at least 2 to 3 litres (4 to 6 pints) of water per day to limit the effects of dehydration. This excludes tea, coffee and alcoholic beverages, which act as diuretics and can actually contribute to dehydration.

Generally, water throughout Southern Africa is safe to drink directly from the tap. However, bottled water is readily available, so please do not allow yourself to become dehydrated.

c) Other Health Issues
There are no other health issues that one needs to be overly concerned with.

GUESTS COMMENTS
"Thank you for making our 40th anniversary celebration so very memorable! We had the most incredible guide spottings - just unbelievable! We definitely will spread the word about how wonderful game and staff are!" BARB & JIM GIFFORD, WISCONSIN, USA

"Thank you Foster, Tendai and Shelley for a wonderful time here at Makalolo. We loved all the personal attention and friendly atmosphere here. Yay for the walking safari - right up to that big white rhino! I'm sure some of our best photographs and best memories will be from you guys here!" THE HEARD FAMILY, WASHINGTON DC, USA

"Thanks so much to all for a wonderful and heart warming experience here! It's a magical place full of very special moments. Can't think of a place I'd rather be". DENISE LANDAU, COLORADO, USA

Hakuna Mutata from all at Makalolo!

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July 03, 2004

11 Tage im nï¿½rdlichen Botswana Safari Spezial

vacationtechnician.com Botswana Afrikan Wild Hund

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11 Tage im nï¿½rdlichen Botswana
(Participation Camping Safari)

1. Tag: Victoria Falls

Ankunft in wo sich die Teilnehmer dieser Safari (startet normalerweise an einem Mittwoch Abend) bei der Ilala Lodge treffen. Nach der Teilnehmerbegrï¿½ssung folgt eine allgemeine Diskussion der vorliegenden Safari. Die Gï¿½ste die schon am morgen in Victoria Falls eintreffen, kï¿½nnen den Tag ausnutzen um die vielen Ausflugsmï¿½glichkeiten die hier geboten werden, in Anspruch zu nehmen (Tour der Victoria Fï¿½lle, Flug ï¿½ber die Fï¿½lle, Wildwasserfahrten usw). Bitte beachten das Ausflï¿½ge wie Wildwasserfahrten einen vollen Tag in Anspruch nehmen, und zu so einem Ausflug bitte einen weiteren Tag vorweg in Victoria Falls dazu buchen. Die ï¿½bernachtung heute mit Frï¿½hstï¿½ck bei der Ilala Lodge ist im Preis miteinbegriffen.

2. & 3. Tag: Chobe National Park

Heute morgen verlï¿½ï¿½t die Safarigruppe Victoria Falls und die Reise fï¿½hrt zu dem berï¿½hmten, der ca 85 km von Victoria Falls entfernt gelegen ist. Das Camp wird heute an dem Ufer des Chobe Flusses inmitten des Chobe National Parks, aufgeschlagen. Dieses ist Elefantengegend, und viele grosse Herden sind hier nicht selten. Aber auch viele Wasservï¿½gel und Antilopenarten wie z.B. die seltene Puku Antilope, sind hier Zuhause. Die Vegetation dieses Gebietes ist sehr vielseitig und die vielen Raubtiere, wie Lï¿½wen, Leoparden und Geparden sind natï¿½rlich auch hier vorzufinden.

4. & 5. Tag: Savute bis zum Chobe National Park

Die Reise fï¿½hrt heute weiter in die einmalige Savute Landschaft, wo das Camp nicht weit entfernt des nun trockenen aufgeschlagen wird. Die grossen Antilopenherden hier, versichern eine reiche Konzentration an Raubtieren wie Lï¿½wen, Geparden, Hyï¿½nen und selbst Wildhunden. Geniessen Sie die Wildniss Afrikas aus erster Hand, die Ihnen ausgezeichnete Fotogelegenheiten bieten kann.

6. bis 8. Tag: Moremi Wildreservat

Heute morgen velassen Sie Savuti und die Fahrt fï¿½hrt in das berï¿½hmte Moremi Wildreservat in dem Herzen des . Der Kontrast zwischen der grassbewachsenen Savutilandschaft, und der des langsam fliessenden Wassers des Okavangodeltas ist enorm. Hier inmitten eines der schï¿½nsten Wildreservaten des sï¿½dlichen Afrikas, wird ein privates Camp unter dem freien Himmel aufgeschlagen. Die nï¿½chsten zwei Tage sind erfï¿½llt von Wildbeobachtungsausflï¿½gen in einem offenen Safariwagen. In diesem Gebiet sind Lï¿½wenscharen, Tï¿½pfelhyï¿½nen und Wildhunde Zuhause, und Sie erforschen von dem Safariwagen die offenen Grasslï¿½nder, ï¿½berflutungsgebiete und den Busch auf der Suche nach diesen und vielen anderen einmaligen afrikanischen Tieren.

9. & 10. Tag: Okavango Delta

Von dem Moremi Wildreservat fï¿½hrt die Fahrt weiter nach Maun. Von hier folgt der Flug per Kleinflugzeug in das Herz des Okavango-Deltas zu einem der Wilderness Safaris Camps in dem Mokoro-Aktivitï¿½ten geboten werden. Hier in dem Delta verbringen die Teilnehmer die nï¿½chsten zwei Nï¿½chte der Safari. Sie erforschen die kristallklaren papyrusumsï¿½umten Kanï¿½le, die mit Lilien bewachsenen Lagunen und die grï¿½nen Inseln dieses einmaligen ï¿½kosystems. Das Transportmittel hier sind die speziellen Kanus, Mokoros genannt, die von den Banyei-Bootsmï¿½nnern durch die Wasserlandschaften gestakt werden. Hier bietet sich die einmalige Gelegenheit die vielen kleinen, und grossen Tiere des Deltas aus unmittelbarer Nï¿½he in Ruhe zu beobachten. Mit ein wenig Glï¿½ck sehen Sie hier vielleicht eine scheue Sitatunga Antilope (eine vom Aussterben bedrohte Sumpfantilope), Bï¿½ffel und auch Litschi-Antilopen um nur einige zu nennen. Diese reiche Wasserlandschaft ist natï¿½rlich auch ein Wasservogelparadies. Abends unter dem endlosen afrikanischen Sternenhimmel kï¿½nnen Sie in dem kleinen privaten Camp die einmalige Ruhe des Deltas geniessen, die nur von den Lauten der Nachtvï¿½gel, wie Eulen und Nachtschwalben, oder aus der Ferne rufenden Lï¿½wen und Nilpferden, unterbrochen wird.

11. Tag: Ende der Safari

Heute, nach einem kurzen Flug ï¿½ber die wunderschï¿½ne Landschaft des Okavangodeltas ended Ihre Safari in Maun, rechtzeitig fï¿½r Ihren weiteren Anschlussflug.

Was ist im Preis eingebegriffen

Diese Safari ist auf einer Basis der aktiven Teilnahme, und ist daher eine echte Campingsafari und schliesst den Gebrauch einer Camping Austattung, mit Aussnahme eines Schlafsacks, ein. Sie kï¿½nnen jedoch auch durch Wilderness Safaris entweder einen Schlafsack mieten (kostet 30.00 Euro) oder je nach Wunsch auch eine komplette Ausrï¿½stung, bestehend aus: Schlafsack, Kopfkissen und Handtuch, mieten (Kosten betragen 40.00 Euro). Alle Mahlzeiten sind eingeschlossen, bis auf die in der Ilala Lodge, in Victoria Falls, welche auf einer ï¿½bernachtung mit Frï¿½hstï¿½ck basiert ist. Zwei tï¿½gliche Wildbeobachtungsfahrten bei allen Camps, alle Ausflï¿½ge und Transfers in offenen Safariwagen, Mokoros and Kleinflugzeugen; die Dienste des Rangers und Camp-personals sind im Preis eingeschlossen. Die Nationalparkgebï¿½hren sind auch im Preis eingeschlossen, werden jedoch separat aufgefï¿½hrt (158 Euro pro Person ï¿½ Preise unter Vorbehalt). Die verpflichtendenden Zimbabwe Tourismus Gebï¿½hren sind auch im Preis einbegriffen.

Was ist NICHT im Preis eingebegriffen

Alle Linien- und regional Flï¿½ge zwischen den Lï¿½ndern des sï¿½dlichen Afrikas und deren Flughafensteuern (falls nicht anders vereinbart); alle persï¿½nlichen Ausgaben; Visas und deren Gebï¿½hren; jegliche neuen Tourismussteuern die von den jeglichen Botswana und Zimbabwe Regierungen implimentiert worden sind; jegliche Trinkgelder und alle Aktivitï¿½ten die nicht im Reiseprogramm ausgeschrieben sind. Bitte beachten Sie das die zimbabwische Regierung zur Zeit eine weitere Ausreisesteuer von US$ 30.00 berechnet, und diese muï¿½ in Bar bei der Ausreise gezahlt werden (die exakten Gebï¿½hren bitte bei der Hand haben, denn es wird kein Wechselgeld ausgezahlt!). Die Eintrittsgebï¿½hren zu den Victoria Falls sind nicht im Preis einbegriffen.

Bitte beachten Sie folgendes:

ï¿½ Optionsbuchungen kï¿½nnen nur 21 Tage lang gehalten werden. Nachdem diese Zeitspanne verstrichen ist, ist eine Kaution von 10% des Buchungspreises zahlbar falls diese Reise fest gebucht werden soll, falls nicht, verfï¿½llt die Optionsbuchung nach 21 Tagen.

ï¿½ Eine Rechung fï¿½r eine eventuell ausstehende Differenz der Buchungskosten wird 8 Wochen vor des ersten Reisetages angefertigt, und die Gesamtkosten der Reise mï¿½ssen 4 Wochen vor Abreise gezahlt sein. Bitte beachten Sie das kein Gast in unsere Camps reisen darf bevor die gesamten Buchungskosten nicht in voll gezahlt worden ist.

ï¿½ Unsere allgemeinen Grundbedingungen zu Buchungen sind ausfï¿½hrlich auf der letzten Seite unserer Broschï¿½re beschrieben und sind auf alle Reisebuchungen zutreffend. Falls Sie eine Kopie der dieser Grundbedingungen benï¿½tigen, kï¿½nnen wir diese bei Nachfrage gerne zuschicken.

ï¿½ Die Beschaffung jeglicher Visas ist ihre Verantwortung. Falls Sie weiter Fragen hierzu haben sollten, bitte kontaktieren Sie uns, oder Ihre Reiseagentur zwecks weiterer Information.

ï¿½ Die Gepï¿½cksbeschrï¿½nkung auf den Interlodge Charterflï¿½gen ist 12 kg pro Person, in weiche Taschen verpackt sein mï¿½ssen (dies schliesst jegliches Handgepï¿½ck und Kameraausstattung ein). Falls Reisende diese Beschrï¿½nkung ï¿½berschreiten, werden erhebliche Kosten zur Verfrachtung dieses extra Gepï¿½cks auf die Gï¿½ste zukommen, denn dieses Gepï¿½ck wird per Privatcharterflug durch das nï¿½rdlichen Botswana geflogen werden mï¿½ssen.

ï¿½ Bei dieser Form von aktiver Safari werden die Teilnehmer ihre eigene Wï¿½sche waschen mï¿½ssen, jedoch Waschbecken werden hierzu zur Verfï¿½gung gestellt.

ï¿½ Alle Teilnehmer mï¿½ssen vor Begin der Safari eine umfassende Reiseversicherung zur etwaigen Stornierung oder Reisegepï¿½cksverlust abschliessen, die wï¿½hrend der gesamten Reise gï¿½ltig ist.

ï¿½ Die allgemeinen Stornobedingungen der Firma Wilderness Safaris sind gï¿½ltig, und sollten Teilnehmer einen Anschlussflug oder Flug verpassen, oder Flugverspï¿½tungen haben sind die Stornobedingungen bei Nichteintreffen eines Gastes gï¿½ltig. Bitte versichen Sie das Sie eine angemessene Reiseversicherung diesbezï¿½glich vor Ihrer Abreise in Anspruch genommen haben.

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June 23, 2004

Bushmen Appeal

vacationtechnician.com Bushman Appeal

22 June 2004

BOTSWANA PRESIDENT PERSONALLY GIVES BLANKETS TO
BUSHMEN AND TELLS THEM NOT TO GO HOME

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In a surprising move, last week the president of
Botswana personally visited New Xade, one of the
government sites where the 'Bushmen' were taken
after being expelled from their ancestral land.

Although it was only 3 weeks before the Bushmen
take his government to court for the right to
return to their land, President Festus Mogae was
accompanied by Sidney Pilane, the lawyer acting
for the government in the case.

Pre-judging the court's ruling, the president
told the San Bushmen that they should not try to
return to their land and also distributed
handouts of food, clothing and blankets.

He told the Bushmen: 'I am your father and I have come to
check up on my children.'

Stephen Corry, director of Survival, which is
very well-known in Botswana for its support of
the Bushmen, said today, 'To pretend that this
visit is not a blatant attempt to influence the
court case, and the British MPs' trip,* is just
naï¿½ve.

In other countries, a visit from the head
of state - and defendant - so close to the court
hearing would not be allowed.

The irony is that the president's handouts actually reinforce the
state of dependency the Bushmen have been reduced
to. These hunter-gatherers are no longer allowed
to hunt and have been turned by the government
into beggars and prostitutes.

So the president's actions are in fact entirely in keeping with his
prevailing attitude, that the Bushmen are to be
stripped of their ability to lead lives outside
of government control. To call this 'development'
is just a mockery. It's an appalling 21st century
echo of how indigenous peoples in North America
were once robbed of their lands in exchange for a
few blankets.'

A Bushman who must remain anonymous said of the visit, 'This is just bribery.'

* A group of British MPs is due to visit New Xade
at the end of June 2004. They are: Nigel Jones, Dianne
Abbott, Tony Banks, Ashok Kumar, Alan Meale,
Roger Godsiff, Jane Griffiths, Andrew Hunter,
John Horam, Paul Keetch.

UK: New motion in Parliament on Bushmen
A second Early Day Motion has been tabled in the UKï¿½s House of Commons supporting the Bushmenï¿½s right to return to their homeland. 24 MPs have already signed; if you live in the UK, please urge your MP to sign too. The motion (EDM no. 1168) can be read at http://edm.ais.co.uk/weblink/html/motion.html/ref=1168. To locate your MP you can use the following website: http://www.locata.co.uk/commons/

BOTSWANA: Bushman hunters arrested
Three Bushmen from the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana have been arrested and charged with ï¿½unlawful huntingï¿½. The three were hunting near the resettlement centre of New Xade, where they have been forced to live since the government evicted them from their reserve in 2002. The arrests are the latest in a rising tide of persecution of Gana and Gwi Bushman hunters. The Bushmen were banned from hunting and gathering in the reserve after the evictions, and since then those hunting around the resettlement centres have faced harassment, arrest and heavy fines or imprisonment. ï¿½I feel angry because I am a hunter and Iï¿½m not allowed to hunt. I have children but I donï¿½t know how to feed them,ï¿½ says one man. In the resettlement centres, the Bushmen are dependent on government rations.

For more information contact Miriam Ross on (+44)
(0)20 7687 8734 or email
[email protected]

Survival International is a worldwide organisation supporting tribal
peoples. It stands for their right to decide their own future and
helps them protect their lives, lands and human rights.

Survival International
6 Charterhouse Buildings
London EC1M 7ET
UK

Tel: (+44) (0)20 7687 8700
Fax: (+44) (0)20 7687 8701
General enquiries: [email protected]
http://www.survival-international.org

*`ï¿½*-.,_,.-*`ï¿½*-.,_,.-*ï¿½
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June 22, 2004

Bushmen

Botswana Bushmen

June 22, 2004

DeBeers Diamonds: Last Straw for Botswana Bushman?

The court case that could decide the future of the Gana and Gwi
Bushmen will be held in July this year. Two hundred and forty-eight
Bushmen and Bakgalagadi are taking Botswana to court over the
government's forced eviction of them and their families from their
ancestral land, in what could be a test case for Bushman rights
across southern Africa.

Sign the Petition to support the Bushmen.

The case will begin on 4 July with an 'inspection in loco' of the
resettlement centres, and of the Bushman communities in the Central
Kalahari Game Reserve to which nearly 200 Bushmen have returned
despite government opposition. Fearing that their voices will not be
heard, as has been the case in previous government-led tours, the
Bushmen are calling for observers from the local and international
media to observe the 'inspection'.

The Bushmen want the government to recognise their rights to return
to their land and live there without fear of further eviction, and to
hunt and gather freely. The original case was dismissed on a
technicality in April 2002. The Bushmen appealed, and won the right
to have the case re-heard on its merits.
Note: Wildlife department permits are required to enter the Central
Kalahari Game Reserve. Entry to the resettlement centres outside the
reserve is unrestricted.

Permits are also required for filming. In the past, film makers have
sometimes been prevented from filming by the police, even when they
had the required permit.

For further information, please contact Kali Mercier at +44 20 7687
8731 or email [email protected]
--

Survival International
6 Charterhouse Buildings
London EC1M 7ET
UK

Tel: (+44) (0)20 7687 8700
Fax: (+44) (0) 20 7687 8701
General enquiries: [email protected]
http://www.survival-international.org

.::.
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Trance Bushmen

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June 21, 2004

Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe - With a name like that, one would think this town would have no trouble attracting tourists. After all, Victoria Falls, the town, is cheek-by-jowl with Victoria Falls, the waterfall - a jaw-dropping, heart-stopping torrent one mile wide and 300 feet high, its constant roar audible for a mile or more, its towering cloud of spray visible from the farthest horizon. Mere words do not do justice to Victoria Falls. One must see it to appreciate it.

Makalolo Safari Report June 2004

Linkwasha Safari Report June 2004

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Where better to start to see the waterfall than Victoria Falls, the town? Until lately, the answer was "nowhere."

In the contest for falls-hungry tourists, Victoria Falls towered over its only rival, Livingstone, just across the broad Zambezi River in Zambia. Lively Vic Falls embraced everyone from backpackers to jet-setters; bungee-jumpers to golfers. Livingstone, disheveled and sedentary, had some historic cachet: it is named after the explorer David Livingstone, the first European to see the falls. But for tourists, it was an afterthought. Then Zimbabwe imploded. And the tables turned.

Suddenly, prosaic Livingstone is hot, jamming visitors into new four-star hotels and river's-edge lodges, bursting with upscale craft and souvenir shops, clubs and casinos. Victoria Falls is not. "There's just no one coming here," a disconsolate businessman said, a conclusion borne out by even a brief stroll in the deserted shopping district. Since early 2000, when squatters began occupying that nation's white-owned farms in what would become a wholesale seizure of commercial farmland, tourism in Zimbabwe has hit the skids. Things grew worse in 2002, after President Robert G. Mugabe was re-elected in balloting marred by widespread violence. It deepened further last year, as inflation roared past 600 percent and fuel shortages became pervasive.

In truth, Zimbabwe's violence and repression have largely passed by Victoria Falls. The region is so solidly in the camp of Mr. Mugabe's political opponents - and such an important source of scarce hard currency - that the government has avoided measures seen in other opposition centers, like the invasions of pro-government youth militia, which might scare tourists away.

But Zimbabwe's reputation has grown increasingly ugly, especially among tourists from members of the Commonwealth nations, mostly former British possessions. Mr. Mugabe quit the Commonwealth in December after it refused to lift its suspension of Zimbabwe in protest of the nation's human rights policies.

One hotelier in Victoria Falls, who refused to be identified for fear of retaliation, said tourist traffic from Europe and the United States has been little affected by Zimbabwe's turmoil, but that visits from commonwealth nations have all but dried up. Some tour agencies in some Commonwealth nations have removed Zimbabwe from their lists, one South African agent said, and replaced it with package trips to Zambia.

During a recent visit to the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, Mike Carter, a New Zealand appraiser on vacation with his family, emerged raincoat-clad from the falls' drenching mist and said, "We never considered coming to Victoria Falls," the town. "We wouldn't bother going 'til they sort things out." Zimbabwe's loss has been Zambia's gain. Livingstone's hotel occupancy has jumped since 2000, to 50 percent from an average of 36 percent, despite a brace of new hotels.

The contrast with Victoria Falls could hardly be more stark. Zimbabwe businessmen say average hotel occupancy runs between 20 and 30 percent, and some of the bigger four-and five-star resorts have severely pared their staff to keep from closing. The world-famous grand dame of local hostelries, the Victoria Falls Hotel, marked its centennial in June with hallways of empty rooms despite an effort to lure celebrants with a 100th-birthday package. The plight of merchants is, if anything, bleaker. Souvenir shops on the main street to Victoria Falls sometimes pass the entire day without ringing up a single sale, one vendor said. Some wholesalers and street vendors have given up and moved their operations to Zambia, prompting a government minister to denounce them as unpatriotic in a recent meeting with the town's beleaguered businessmen.

Things could change, of course: longtime residents remember that Vic Falls prospered most in the 1970's, when Zambia's economic policies drove that nation and its Livingstone tourism business close to ruin. In the meantime, merchants and hotel operators might take a tip from a tourism Web site and try to turn their bitter plight into tourism lemonade. Zimbabwe's national parks "are completely safe to visit, as they are far from the cities where the instability exists," the site says. "Game lodges are desperate for occupants, so prices are extremely competitive. And low lodge occupancy means you'll have thousands of hectares of pristine game country virtually all to yourself."
.::.
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June 17, 2004

Global Warming threatens Namibia's Skeleton Coast

Skeleton Coast, Namibia

Parts of Namibia's exotic Skeleton Coast could be submerged by the end of the century and its rich marine life badly hit by global warming, a report by the southern African country's environment and tourism ministry warns.

The 1,500-kilometre (937-mile) Namibian coastline -- which hosts tourist hotspots because of its unspoilt beauty and wildlife -- is dotted with ghostly shipwrecks, a testimony to the unforgiving Atlantic stretch that gives it its name.

A 130-page report, released last week for the UN's Framework Convention on Climatic Change, painted a bleak picture on the impact of global warming on the coastline and on the Benguela current running alongside.

"The cold Benguela current will experience temperature rises due to global warming, thus negatively impacting on the fisheries industry," it said.

"Over the last decade, a trend of warmer sea surface temperatures has been noted over the northern Benguela region," the report said, noting that temperatures could rise between two to six degrees Celsius (36 to 43 Fahrenheit) in Namibia by 2100.

"Marine biodiversity may also be impacted if there are shifts in the Benguela current system," it added.

Marine life off the coast rely heavily on the nutrient-rich upwellings of the cold Benguela current. "Any changes in the frequency, timing or distribution of upwelling would influence production", according to the report.

The sea level will have risen between 30 and 100 centimetres in 96 years from now, the report said "certainly inundating significant parts of Walvis Bay, Namibia's main port. The coastal towns of Swakopmnund and Henties Bay are also vulnerable".

According to marine scientist Jean-Paul Roux, the periodic warming of the Benguela System, called the Benguela Nino Events, has increased.

"During the 1995 Benguela Nino event, unusual mortalities of sardine, horse mackerel were noted ... the Namibian stock of Cape anchovy virtually disappeared while then sardine stock was reduced to its lowest level on record following this event", Roux wrote in a recent publication titled "Namibia's Marine Environment".

Fishing and fish processing are one of the former German colony's major export earners contributing to 10 percent of the gross domestic product.

Joe McGann, climate change coordinator in Namibia's environment and tourism ministry said that "even without the threat of climate change, Namibia faces absolute water scarcity by the year 2020."

"Namibia is highly dependent on its natural resources such as fish, minerals, agricultural land and wildlife", McGann added. "The variable rainfall, frequent droughts and reliance on subsistence agriculture combine to make Namibia highly vulnerable to climate change".

The Benguela current, which runs along the west coast of southern Africa, brings cold water from the South Pole. The current greatly reduces the amount of rainfall that falls along coastal areas, resulting in semi-arid and desert vegetation in the western coastal plains.

Significant resources are required to pre-empt or adapt to potential negative climatic effects, said Deputy Environment and Tourism Minister Petrus Ilonga Monday at the launch of the report.

"Climate change is not of our (Namibia's) making and we cannot be expected to bear the costs of this global problem alone."

.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.

Namibia's Skeleton Coast is one of our planet's most beautiful places and is now host to one of our finest safaris. Over much of the past decade, access to this private area within the National Park has been restricted.

However, in April 2000 we opened our 12-bedded, luxury tented camp and we can now offer superb 4 or 5 day fly-in safaris to this incredible area, with guaranteed departures every Wednesday and Saturday.

Close on 300,000 hectares (660,000 acres) of the National Park has been set aside as an exclusive safari experience for those who want to really get away! It is wild, desolate and uninhabited - and stunningly beautiful.

The Benguela Current brings cool, plankton and fish~rich waters all the way from Antarctica and moderates the temperatures in the region. Mean temperatures year round vary from a high of 28ï¿½ C (82ï¿½F) to a low of 10ï¿½C (50ï¿½F). Summers are incredibly mild, even though we are in the desert!

The cool ocean air meets the warm desert air and nearly every morning mists cover the coastline, bringing life~sustaining moisture to the desert's fauna and flora.

This is a safari that will rival anything in Africa for those who enjoy the excitement of wild and remote places.

Safari Field Reports

About The VacationTechnician Company

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June 01, 2004

BUSHMEN TO TAKE BOTSWANA TO COURT IN JULY

Botswana Bushmen

June 1, 2004

DeBeers Diamonds: Last Straw for Botswana Bushman?

Sign the Petition to support the Bushmen.

Permits are also required for filming. In the past, film makers have
sometimes been prevented from filming by the police, even when they
had the required permit.

For further information, please contact Kali Mercier at +44 20 7687
8731 or email [email protected]
--

Survival International
6 Charterhouse Buildings
London EC1M 7ET
UK

Tel: (+44) (0)20 7687 8700
Fax: (+44) (0) 20 7687 8701
General enquiries: [email protected]
http://www.survival-international.org

.::.

Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense...

The Weapon of Mass Destruction?
vacationtechnician conservation
vacationtechnician Paradise Paradigm

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May 28, 2004

Kwando Botswana Safari Report

Private Flying Safaris or Scheduled Departure Safari Holidays with vacationtechnician

Kwara camp

* Good viewing two days ago of a pride of 3 males, 2 females and 3 cubs\
* Evening viewing of a female leopard hunting impala near Tsum Tsum ï¿½ she was unsuccessful.
* Numerous groups of bachelor herds of elephants
* Large groups of Zebras and Wildebeest.
* Nigh-time viewing of Aardwolf as well as African Wild Cat, Civet and Serval
* Cheetah viewing for a couple of days ï¿½ adult female with 2 cubs
* Nomadic hyena sighted frequently, but no active dens yet.
* Sighting of a python late last week.
* Excellent water birds in front of the camp and in the marshes including Saddle-billed storks, Wattled Cranes, Egrets, as well as Spur-wing and Egyptian Geese.
* The water is right in front of the camp.

Lagoon camp

* A male leopard was followed at night ï¿½ it stalked and killed a springhare.
* Lagoon pride (3 females and 4 cubs) seem feeding on an impala that they had filched from Wild dogs.
* A young male cheetah was spotted by on of the Lagoon staff as it was walking past the lounge on the guest pathway.
* Large numbers of both buffalo (one herd exceeding 1000) and elephant sighted on drive as winter game-viewing gets into full swing.
* The lagoon pride 3 lionesses and 4 cubs were watched feeding on a giraffe.
* 3 roan antelope
* African wild cat, caracal, a group of 6 bat-eared foxes foraging as well as an Aardwolf basking in the sun
* General game sightings have been excellent ï¿½ zebra, wildebeest, impala and giraffe

Lebala camp

* Large numbers of elephant in herds ranging from 50 ï¿½ 100 strong are coming down to the river adjacent to camp daily.
* 3 herds of buffalo up to 400 strong are being seen regularly on drive
* Regular sightings of a pride of 7 lions with cubs ï¿½ they killed a giraffe between Lebala and Lagoon Camps.
* 2 sightings of cheetah including a Male chasing and killing a scrub hare.
* Male leopard seen regularly around camp as well as a fem stalking but missing an Aardvark
* 4 python sightings in 2 days as well as sightings of a cobra and a puffadder ï¿½ getting in a last feed before winter.
* Wild dogs ï¿½ the Selinda pack of 14 spending some time in the southern traversing as well as regular sightings of the Lebala pack of 5 with the pregnant Alpha Female.
* 2 active hyena dens, 4 adults with 9 cubs and 12 adults with 2 cubs seem nightly.
* good sightings of zebra, wildebeest and giraffe with night-time sightings of honeybadger, Serval hunting, Civet, African Wild Cat and Bushbaby.
* Ground hornbills having been seen flying over the camp several times and have been heard most mornings.

To learn more about Botswana safaris with vacationtechnician.com click these links:

Botswana Safari Reports
Botswana Safari Guides
Kwando
Okavango Delta
Luxury Okavango Delta Safari Camps

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May 21, 2004

Okavango Delta Botswana Flood Levels 21MAY04

While the Okavango Delta in Botswana has being steadily filling up these past few weeks, the arrival of the second "spike" of new 2004 flood waters (caused by the rains that fall in Angola in Jan / Feb/ March) has not materialised as yet. This been great for vacationtechnician safari camp clients in the north of the Okavango and has given a reprieve; while the early flood waters have had a chance to spread out and disperse. The water levels at Duba Camp for instance have dropped by about 10cm these past weeks - but has just started rising fractionally again these past few days.

It appears as though the biggest effects of the first and early flood waters have been more felt in the west of the Delta and large areas around Mombo Camp are still largely dry. The main flood from that first and early pulse is now just past the "Buffalo fence" just outside of Maun and should be reaching Maun shortly. Some of the flood waters in the East of the Delta have already gone way down the Gomoti River and the floodplains are starting to fill up there - although Chitabe is still dry except for those lagoons that always carry water.

In the Linyanti, the Zibadianja Lagoon is reasonably full from the localised rainfall - but not from the flood waters from Angola. We are still waiting for the flood waters to get to the Linyanti area. The waters have pushed about 300 meters down the Savuti Channel but has stopped flowing and it has receded a bit..... till the arrival of the floods.

.:::.

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May 19, 2004

The dolphin/human connection and healing

Soul Safaris Dolphin Experience

The dolphin/human connection and healing The connection between humans and dolphins has been documented historically since ancient Grecian times and possibly even earlier. It has been proposed that the notion of unconditional
positive regard that dolphin encounters create is healing in itself. Dolphins seem to possess the extraordinary ability to trigger the healing processes within us. People have reported feelings of profound inner peace and states of euphoria after swimming with these incredible marine mammals.

Sufferers from psychological and physiological disturbances, such as acute depression, attention deficit disorders, post-traumatic depression and bi-polar disorders have made remarkable and in some cases, even permanent recoveries after swimming with wild dolphins. The sound vibrations
emitted from dolphins are said to have potent influences on the body, mind and spirit.

This hypothesis has been reinforced through the work of Dr Horace Dobbs. Dr Horace Dobbs first noted the idea that dolphins have healing powers in the UK in the mid-1970s.

Two incidents convinced him that dolphins have a special therapeutic influence on the human mind and spirit. In the first, Geoff Bold, a lifeboat mechanic who was close to nervous breakdown, swam with a friendly dolphin called Donald. After this encounter, Bold's depression was considerably lifted. A few years later, when Dr Dobbs took a group of people out to see Simo, a friendly bottlenose dolphin swimming off the coast of Wales, he was intrigued to note that the dolphin spent most time with one man, Bill Bowell. Then aged 54, Bowell had previously suffered both a heart attack and a nervous breakdown, and had slipped into a state of deep depression. The meeting with Simo was a
remarkable turning point for him. He described the dolphin encounter as more therapeutic than all the anti-depressant drugs he had been taking. After subsequent swims, Bowell started to change from being apprehensive, withdrawn and nervous into an altogether more confident and outgoing
person.

ï¿½Dolphins have always evoked in me most of the values we humans are striving for, especially freedom and love. I could never justify their confinement. Since I started in 1974, I have conducted all of my research with wild dolphins in the open sea. It was their choice to participate. They were always free to swim away at any time - and often did. It was a challenge, but I succeeded in showing that it is possible to work with totally free wild dolphins that chose to associate with humans.ï¿½ - Dr. Horace Dobbs

" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."

Soul Safaris Dolphin Experience ï¿½

Located along a miles long white powder beach in southern Mozambique, a resident pod of over a hundred gentle and playful dolphins are waiting for you to join them for a stay in paradise.

.:::.

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May 17, 2004

Chitabe Trails Botswana Safari Report

Chitabe Trails

Chitabe Trails Safari Report

Dear Friends,

As the rest of Botswana's Okavango Delta experiences the inundation of an early flood and a late deluge, rising and falling with the ebb and flow of an ancient rhythm of life-giving waters, Chitabe remains but a distant goal in the timeless history of the surging waters' memory- when once the island was completely encircled by water, we await the marvels of this phenomenon again.

The climate has settled into an autumn chill- clear bright skies, with chilly evenings and mornings. The average temperatures have altered somewhat dramatically, with highs around 29 degrees and lows around 12 degrees Celsius. We huddle around the fire for early morning breakfasts, tucking into bowls of Ben's delicious hot porridge as the dawn chorus of Swamp Bou Bous, Meyer's Parrots and Starlings welcome the sunrise.

The African Marula Trees have provided a feast for our local fauna- baboons, squirrels, elephants and resident humans have been indulging in the delicious fruit, which have covered the ground below their magnificent boughs.

The bushbuck ewe that calls Chitabe Trails island home has dropped, and she and her lamb are often seen picking their delicate way through the vegetation. She has particularly beautiful markings, and her offspring is a gorgeous carbon copy of herï¿½

At the outlying pans, Saddlebill Storks, Wattled Cranes, Spurwing, Pygmy and Egyptian geese, Pied Kingfishers and Blackwinged Stilts are delighting in the abundance of water- a birder's paradise!

A fond farewell to our migrant species of feathered friends, who have finally headed north- apart from one woodland kingfisher who seemed to have lost his compass, or enjoyed our company so much that he left a few weeks after all the rest had gone.

On our eastern boundary, the once mighty Gomoti channel has risen again from a long period of drought, risen and fallen, the water claimed by the thirsty sands of the Kalahari below. Hippo have moved into the area after a long absence, and their calls reverberate into the African night, competing with the mighty roars of the four massive Gomoti lions, as they have been named, who have also recently appeared from the Moremi area.

Our resident coalition of male lions in the Chitabe sandbelt area have developed an interesting adaptation. Previously being buffalo specialists, they would bring one down almost every week, but now since the buff have not been in the area for some time, they have begun killing giraffe on a semi-regular basis, and have even brought down the occasional juvenile elephant.

Chitabe Trails Botswana

The lioness that brought her cubs into the relative safety of the camp has moved her brood off- after she introduced them to her former pride-mate and her year-old cub. We were all mesmerised by the meeting, which took place in the middle of the day right in front of the camp. Before she left, the Warrs from the UK were treated to the sight of her calling out and suckling her cubs right outside their tent!

Ebineng was out on the Gomoti when he spotted three lionesses stalking a buffalo. One completed her final charge and was able to leap onto its back. With her sisters bring up the rear, the buffalo thundered away and into the channel, sending up plumes of spray in all directions. When Ebs and his guests were again able to see clearly, the buffalo was making off on the other side of the floodplain, leaving a disappointed-looking lioness on the other side of the water!

We have had a sighting of a lactating female cheetah in the area, which would be a pretty good indicator of cubs being somewhere nearby- although we haven't seen them yet, the grasses are still very high, but just starting to turn to a tinge of autumnal dun. Later in the month they will begin to flatten and die down, affording us better viewing opportunities.

Leopard sightings have been good, and there are at least six in the area close to camp- occasionally we hear the large male who lives in the island alongside give his unmistakable rasping call, sending the baboons into a fury of shouts and roars. Relax has also spotted a lactating female in the acacia woodland, so hopefully we might spot her cub or cubs soon!

Chitabe Trails Game Drive

Speaking of cats, vacationtechnician clients saw a young female caracal on sunset road, which was a truly memorable experience, as they are extremely shy and hard to spot.

The Moonstone Pack of six wild dogs have been sighted several times this month- and although they are a small and raggedy pack in comparison to the larger Mogogelo pack, they are doing well, hunting impala successfully in the sweet-grass areas of mopane woodland. We are expecting a litter from them in July, when they will form a den- this should hopefully swell their numbers somewhatï¿½

The walking season is upon us again, and we have walkers out there almost every day, soaking in the wonders of being on foot out there in our glorious wilderness. This is an experience enriched by encountering things one would not normally notice from a noisy moving vehicle- the engagement of all of the senses (including some that have no name), revelling in your body, at one with the majesties of creation that surround you. Sleeping out in the hide, serenaded by the plinking sounds of the reed frogs, listening to the whoops of hyena giggling at their own private jokes, and hippos chortling to themselves in the channels is an experience few will ever forget.

The sunsets have transformed once again into their winter splendour- the sky is like the inside of a cobalt Faberge egg as the golden orb of the sun sinks us into another star-studded African night. Listening to the chirrups of the scops owls and the warbling lament of the nightjars as we sit around the fire of an evening reminds us all what a special and wondrous place Chitabe is, and we invite you to share the joys both great and small of simply being here.

Click here and Introduce yourself to a friendly vacationtechnician!

Client Comments

Ora and Michael Singer (New York)- " Ben was and amazing, outstanding guide who was very aware of what we had and had not seen, and chose our route accordingly!"

Fred and Gill Schwab (UK)- " The friendliness, warmth and hospitality here are the very best. Staying here is like staying with friends. A big thank you to everybody."

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May 15, 2004

TOP TEN SAFARI RECOMMENDATIONS

Top Ten Safari Recommendations

TOP TEN SAFARI RECOMMENDATIONS

#1: Best all-round safari: Jacana Safari, Botswana. Excellent choice for first safari, also ideal for single travelers as there is no single supplement if you are ï¿½willing to shareï¿½. The group of no more than 8 has 100% exclusivity in all camps.

# 2: Best ï¿½Ultimate Safariï¿½ experience: Best of Southern Africa flying safari. Traveling by private dedicated aircraft between premier camps in best areas of 4 countries (Namibia, Botswana, Zambia & Zimbabwe). Excellent review by Travel Editor of New York Times who took this trip in May 2003.

#3: Best value for money: Zimbabwe fly-in safari. The Wilderness Safaris camps in Zimbabwe are being filled by savvy Africa travelers who know that it is during these times that one enjoys the finest wildlife encounters, at attractive prices.

# 4: Best ï¿½activeï¿½ safari: Rhino Safari, Zimbabwe: game drives, foot safaris with best-qualified guides in Africa (Zimbabwe full pro guides); tracking rhino on foot, boating on Lake Kariba, canoeing on Lower Zambezi River, and more.

# 5: Best ï¿½newï¿½ trip for 2004: Gorilla treks in Rwanda are back!

#6: Best combination of two countries: Botswana and Namibia. Botswana has lots of opportunities for game-viewing, the incomparable Okavango Delta and it combines perfectly with Namibiaï¿½s desert and dune experience.

#7: Most unusual destination: Madagascar. Adorable lemurs, amazing people, strange spiny forests, always the unexpected. Just donï¿½t expect everything to work 100%ï¿½

#8: Trip most likely to be a ï¿½life-changingï¿½ event: Mana Canoe Trail, Zimbabwe.

#9: Best honeymoon destination: North Island, Seychelles. No question.

#10: ï¿½Best kept secretï¿½ safari area: Mashatu Game Reserve, Tuli Block. Too many of our clients return from Mashatu with multiple leopard sightings or other fabulous game-viewing experiences for this area to remain ï¿½undiscoveredï¿½ for long.

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Africa Safari News

Chikwenya, Zimbabwe Safari Camp

Hello Friends,

ZIMBABWE - WORTH A SECOND LOOK?

If you are at all interested in Zimbabwe, this is one Southern African country where the prices have not increased lately, so please give us a call for a quotation. We can put together a very attractive safari including Makalolo Plains (Hwange Game Reserve) and Matusadona Water Camp (on Lake Kariba), together with Victoria Falls.

On longer itineraries, the Mana Pools area can also be included - and adventurous types may wish to do the Mana Canoe Trail between Ruckomechi and Chikwenya. I have had more than one client tell me that this safari was a life-changing event.

While Zimbabwe has lately been a controversial destination due to the political situation there, the safaris are operated in very remote and very safe areas, completely isolated from any populated towns or cities. Zimbabwe has had excellent rains so far this season, which is good news for the game later on in the year. The wildlife sightings have been absolutely awesome! On a recent safari vacationtechnician clients spotted over 20 different mammal species in one game drive in Hwange National Park ï¿½ including Wild Dog, Lion, and the very rare Red Hartebeest.

NEW ZAMBIA PACKAGES
Zambia's magnificent national parks are relatively unknown, but our associates Star of Africa has unveiled a series of stunning safari destinations in four of Zambia's most game-rich areas. The lodges offer a diverse choice of environments, and represent a very exciting upmarket wildlife circuit. When managing director Dave Bennett was here in Europe recently, he told me that the game-viewing at some of the camps have been extraordinarily good, with some clients experiencing as many as 5 different leopard sightings on one game drive. Dave tells me that game-viewing in the Lower Zambezi area is very similar to that of the near legendary Mana Pools area of Zimbabwe.

Two of our clients with St. Louis Zoo Travel recently traveled to the South Luangwa region of Zambia on an inspection trip, where they spent several days with Star of Africa, whom they described as 'a real winner in Zambia'. Our clients were complimentary about the level of guiding, the accommodations and the wildlife.

Here is what they had to say about Puku Ridge: "The accommodations are superb. Each unit is huge, with a sitting area, a deck overlooking the plain, sunken tub, etc. Quite reminiscent of Jao Camp in Botswana. The dining area is nicely laid out, overlooking a pool built into the side of the hill. Wildlife is all over the place." They were equally impressed with the other camps and experienced some excellent game-viewing such as observing a pack of 22 wild dogs, large herds of Black Lechwe, good views of the endemic Thornicrofts Giraffe and much else besides, including a great number and variety of birds.

Star of Africa has now introduced several package deals which include all or some of their lodges, at attractive rates. For example the 9-day 'Zambian Spice Trail' safari includes 2 nights at each of Star of Africa's luxury lodges in the Victoria Falls area (Sussi & Chuma); Lochinvar National Park (Lechwe Plains Tented Camp); Lower Zambezi National Park (Kulefu Tented Camp) and South Luangwa National Park (Chichele Lodge or Puku Ridge). Please call or e-mail for detailed itineraries and prices which start at around $3,000.00 p.p. sharing for an 8-day 'Classic Zambezi' safari which includes 3 nights in the Lower Zambezi area.

MADAGASCAR MAKING A COMEBACK

The good news from Madagascar is that it is safe to travel to the country again. A new broom sweeps clean in the form of new President Marc Ravolamanana who is reputed to be a man of great vision.

Madagascar isn't for everybody, and at times it can be a difficult place to travel due to poor roads and other minor inconveniences. However, if you can handle the fact that not everything may happen exactly as per the timing on the printed itinerary, it may just be the place for you. Just the other day I saw comedian John Cleese in a television interview situation where the reporter wanted him to be 'funny'. All Cleese wanted to do was talk about the lemurs he had seen on a recent trip to Madagascar, where he did some charitable work. Like so many before him, John Cleese was clearly totally enchanted by these amazing creatures. He went on and on about how beautiful and entertaining they were, how many different kinds there are, and how endangered many of them were due to habitat loss. One could sense that Clease would much rather be in a forest in Perinet than the television studio he found himself in...

Anybody that's been to Madagascar can relate. I am not a great 'monkey' fan, and I generally consider the few African monkey species which I have seen, especially the cheeky Vervet monkeys, to be a bit obnoxious. By contrast, Madagascarï¿½s lemurs are stunning. It took me all of 15 seconds to fall in love with the first species of lemur I had a good look at, namely the Ringtailed Lemur, at Berenty. Following a family group of Ringtails around on a foraging expedition at Berenty, was one of my best nature experiences ever. The mothers were casting me a wary eye, and the little ones almost seemed to be 'daring' one another to get close to me, and then dart away. I was so close that I could see the particular type of flowers that they were picking, ever so daintily but very effectively, steadily moving from one shrub to another.

So take off the watch, brush up on a few words of French, and book a trip to Madagascar. You will love the lemurs! And possibly a lot of other things too - the people, the birds, the reptiles, the spiny forest, and simply being in a country that is just so 'different' in almost every way one can imagine.

NEWS FROM SOUTH AFRICA

When is the best time of the year to visit South Africa? Definitely during the South African Spring (Fall in the northern hemisphere). South Africa is a year-round destination but the far north-eastern part of the country - where the major game reserves are located - is prone to hot, humid and often rainy conditions in the summer months from December through about March.

So if you are planning a trip to South Africa, and have some flexibility with your dates, September and October are probably the two best months. The winter months of June, July & August are good too, just a bit cold and with a significant chance of rain in the Cape.

From the outset of the year, many South African venues and suppliers have either held or lowered their rates for 2004 and 2005. There are quite a few good special offers goings, the best of which is: From May through the end of September, stay for 2 nights at either Jock Safari Lodge (inside Kruger Park), Sanbona (south-western Cape) or Shamwari (Eastern Cape) and stay for 3 nights free (Room Only basis) at either Lake Pleasant in Knysna or Steenberg Hotel in Cape Town. Sanbona Game Lodge has over 7 different Rock art sites for guests to enjoy. It is also home to cheetah as well as the 'big five' mammals. There are over 165 bird species including Black and Fish Eagle. Hot air ballooning is available as an optional extra.

The Cape Grace is offering a 4 night stay for the price of 3 nights until 19 December 2004. This is an effective 25% reduction on a 4 night stay.

Great news is that Chapman's Peak on the Cape Peninsula has reopened and the views are absolutely amazing. Even better is that Wilderness Safaris are not charging an additional fee for either their Private or Scheduled Tours utilizing the improved toll road.

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May 08, 2004

Hollywood's latest destination: Namibia

Namibia with vacationtechnician.com

SWAKOPMUND, Namibia -- Out in the rolling red dunes stretching for hundreds of miles from this palm-lined resort lie the remains of some wrecked C-119 cargo planes.

They're the latest evidence of Hollywood's growing infatuation with the Namibian desert -- sets for "Flight of the Phoenix," a 20th Century Fox remake of the 1965 adventure set in Mongolia's Gobi Desert.

Namibia may not be an obvious stand-in, but it beat out other locations scouted in China, Chile, South Africa and the United States.

"Not only does Namibia have the tallest dunes, but it also has the perfect climate, because it is close to the ocean," said production designer Patrick Lumb. "It is ideal, because it looks isolated and inaccessible, when in actual fact we're 10 minutes away from Swakopmund."

Peaceful Remote Luxury

Swakopmund, home to about 30,000 people, is a popular resort on the Atlantic coast with numerous restaurants and outdoor cafes. Those were packed with cast and crew from the United States, Britain, South Africa and 15 other countries during the four-month film shoot.

"I tell my wife I'm roughing it, but I'm not," said Wyck Godfrey, an executive producer from Los Angeles. "It's like a tourist town."

"Flight of the Phoenix" was the latest in a series of big-budget Hollywood movies shot here in recent years, including "The Cell" (2000), "Beyond Borders" (2003) and "The Young Black Stallion" (2003). There have also been film productions from India, Italy, Poland and Britain, and documentaries, commercials and music videos are regularly shot here.

Still, this southern African country remains relatively undiscovered as a film location, said Guy Nockles, the movie's Namibian unit production manager. "It is new, has variety and is a great location," he said.

Namibia has decent infrastructure and a government eager to help international film productions get what they need.

The movie work is a boost for an economy in which more than a third of the population lives on less than $1 a day.

Business was booming in Swakopmund during filming of "Flight of the Phoenix" -- particularly at the popular fish restaurant The Tug, which was frequented by director John Moore and lead actor Dennis Quaid.

Add up the money spent on accommodation, restaurants and other personal expenses, and the movie put $35.3 million into the local economy, Nockles said.

It also created much-needed jobs in an area with about 40 percent unemployment, said Freddy Kaukungua, spokesman for Swakopmund's municipal government.

"They are part-time, but if more and more movies come, we can create a whole new sector," he said.

"Flight of the Phoenix" used up to 280 crew members a day, including around 130 Namibians. Their wages were not high by Hollywood standards, but the $14.50 daily minimum was double the local rate for unskilled workers.

The recent volatility of the South African rand, to which the Namibian dollar is pegged, is a problem for international productions.

"Mad Max Fury Road," also a 20th Century Fox production, canceled plans to film here last fall when the U.S. dollar fell sharply against the rand. The producers of "Flight of the Phoenix" had hedged against foreign exchange volatility by buying all the rands they needed early.

There were a few problems during the shoot, filmmakers said, citing a break-in at a crew member's home and insufficient policing in the town.

And Swakopmund is also incapable of supporting more than one feature film at a time.

"Accommodation would be the biggest problem. There are no more houses available for rent," said Nockles, who co-owns a production company, Namib Films. "You walk around restaurants, and you can't get in. You look in, and it's mostly film crew."

Nockles is convinced Hollywood will be back.

"Americans after every war make a stack of movies," he said. "They just had a war in the desert. Where else would they come?"

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April 26, 2004

Mombo - NBC Today Show

Matt Lauer NBC Today Show at Mombo Camp

NBC arrived at the beginning of the month and took over Mombo Camp Okavango Delta Botswana , turning Mombo into something resembling the NASA control centre. The generators ran 24 hours a day; wires and cables were laid all over the camp, and telephone linkups were established via satellite.

It was an eerie sensation hearing the ringing of telephones. A bonus, however, was been allowed to call family and friends from the camp. The whole aim of the nine day preparation was a 3 hour live broadcast to the USA as part of NBC's "Where in the World is Matt Lauer" morning show. The rain kept away for the full nine days of the preparation, but as Mombo, or Murphy, would have it the heavens opened during the live broadcast. This did not cause any major problems however and the show went off smoothly.

Matt Lauer NBCToday Show Mombo

Numerous guests were present, including Mr. Louis Nchingo of Debswana and an entourage of policeman who were there to make sure the almost US$1million worth of diamonds were safe. The show ended at 5pm where upon the crew had to pack everything up in time for the arrival of the first guests at 12pm the following day.

Matt Lauer NBC Today Show Mombo Camp

We were all amazed at the speed at which the packing happened. The new guests would not have known anything had taken place was it not for the fact that they were informed that Matt Lauer had been and gone. It was very obvious from most USA visitors' reactions that the NBC morning show is huge in America.

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April 23, 2004

Safari Guide Profile: Mark Tennant

Mark Tennant

" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."

Mark Tennant

Mark has been a guide in Botswana and helped to developed our guide training and wildlife experience for the first 5 years.

His passion for birds and the African wilderness developed while he worked for the Vulture Study Group in the early 1980's. In 1991 he decided to move permanently into the bush where he worked at Phinda in Northern Zululand. As part of the team he was involved in staff training and worked developing the guest experience there.

Mark is a professional photographer and his work has earned him a number of international photographic awards. Coupled with his intimate knowledge of animal behaviour, he is regularly called upon by international film crews to assist in the production of wildlife documentaries. He has been the subject of a TV series as well.

Besides wildlife, photography and birds, Mark is a knowledgeable about frogs and butterflies. These interests and background makes him a highly informative and entertaining guide.

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Botswana Best Birding Safari with Ken Newman

Bateleur Eagle

Botswana's Best Birding with Ken Newman

" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."

This 5-night safari to the Okavango Delta Botswanaat a time of the year when all the intra-African and European migrants are in residence and breeding is at its peak. We travel with Ken Newman, one of the region's foremost bird painters and authors. We travel to two Okavango camps offering contrasting habitats and birding experiences within the Okavango Delta.

Most of the region's rarities and endemics should be seen - from Pel's Fishing Owl to the diminutive Brown Firefinch. Within the waterways, savannahs and lagoons, countless herons, ducks, jacanas, eagles, vultures, ibis, storks, plovers and all the 'LBJ's should be found. Some of the rare species include Slaty Egrets, Wattled Cranes, Coppery-tailed Coucals, Black Coucals, Thick-Billed Cuckoo, Chirping Cisticola and Lesser Jacana.

Recommended time of year to travel - early to mid November.

About Ken Newman

KEN NEWMAN Birding Artist/Author/Photographer

Ken was born in England at an early age and stayed there for another 24 years. He scraped through school mainly through good marks for his early artwork and writing abilities, his main interests outside of school being: birds eggs, butterflies and similar creepy crawlies. Adolf Hitler interrupted his wildlife studies so Ken contributed to the dictator's downfall by teaching aeroplane recognition to carefree aircraft gunners, at the time not appreciating the value of this fully-paid-for bird identification training.

Post war Britain saw Ken in the art department of a London advertising agency that he enjoyed for four years, but eventually began to feel the need for more space and opportunity.

He arrived in South Africa in 1948 with a pioneering spirit and soon had one foot on the ladder to progress drawing soap bubbles for Lever Brothers in Durban. That bubble soon burst with the monotony of the situation and Ken moved to Johannesburg in 1950 where his graphic art career continued in between breakaway safaris until 1968 when birds took over his life.

Ken's introduction to bush life was an early trip to the Kruger National Park where he discovered that no one had much interest in, or knowledge of South Africa's birds. He was to learn that Ground Hornbills were Turkey Buzzards, Lilac-breasted Rollers were Blue Jays and that Grey Herons were Blue Cranes.

In 1955, having married his late wife Elisabeth (also an artist), they set off on a seven month round Africa safari, just camping and seeking wildlife. Two years later they did it again, this time taking pictures, especially of birds, for photojournalism.

Ken decided there was a real need for a beginner's guide to the birds of South Africa, and so he started on Garden Birds of South Africa. Faced with the problem of illustrations he decided to try painting. His first picture, a portrait of a Bateleur, was shown with pride to Elisabeth with the question "Do you think I could paint birds?" Her answer, short and to the point, was "No! Not a damn!" So he started.

GARDEN BIRDS OF SOUTH AFRICA was launched in 1967 and stayed on the bookshop shelves for another 30 years. Others followed in quick succession. Ken's paintings and books sell both locally and overseas, and he is much involved in matters ornithological.

Ken has been with Wilderness Safaris/vacationtechnician as a specialist guide, on a casual basis, since the company's early days. His prime interest is in the birds of southern Africa, an interest shared by his wife Ursula and their three children.

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April 22, 2004

Flying Safari Report Botswana

Cheetah: Post breakfast Pre Siesta

The distances between camps were so great we had to cover them in what is called a 'light aircraft', but which is more like a biscuit tin with a propeller.

Those with a fear of flying should not attempt this trip.

After an hour of bumping around, a thousand feet above the Botswana scrubvelt, our lawn mower with wings was angled at 45 degrees to scare the elephants off the dirt airstrip before we circled again at a stomach-churning angle into a buffeting descent against the rising midday hot air currents. Finally, we crunched down into Kwando in the Chobe conservation area.

My son had been sick into a leaky paper bag, his friend was shaking his head saying: 'Never again, I will never go in a small plane ever again in my life.' (We only had five more booked on our itinerary.) My travelling companion, the only other adult apart from the pilot - an Aussie woman with attitude - was sitting sobbing, head between legs.

My hands were trembling and sweating, and although it had taken us nearly three days' flying to get here via Johannesburg, Victoria Falls and Kasane, I fully intended to reschedule our entire holiday and get us all out by any route possible rather than go up in one of those things again, even if it meant a 10-week trek across the desert with oxen.

We unloaded ourselves and got into an open-top Jeep to bounce off past termite mounds, vultures, and about 150 curious elephants. Antelope and giraffe darted out of the way as we careered through dust tracks at speed to avoid sinking into the sand. It was bloody hot. This was not Disney, this was real and it was difficult not to feel that we had entered a dream.

Game Drivin!!!!!

In fact, what we were seeing was so strange and so wondrous that within three minutes my son was saying, 'This is the best holiday of my life, ever', his friend was saying, 'I hope we never leave here', and my adult companion, having made an apparently instant recovery, was insisting we set off immediately on the night drive to see if we could find the hyenas which were evidently gnawing over a recent cheetah kill somewhere off to our left through a thorny thicket.

To get anywhere this good, this interesting, this mind-blowing, maybe you have to suffer a bit. If it were easy to get to, it wouldn't be the thousands of square miles of unspoilt wilderness choking with wildlife and natural history that it is.
In your average safari park they take you down well-trodden routes to the game, which might be a few scrawny lions which have already appeared in a thousand home videos and know which is their best profile.

Botswana is the last true wilderness of Africa, and apart from the Okavango Delta, it's mostly flat and dry. We divided our trip between Chobe, which is a savannah full of bushes, trees and more wildlife than a David Attenborough documentary, and the Makgadikgadi Pans (pronounced ma-caddy-caddy), a desert made of salt where the horizon is so wide you can see the Earth's curve.

Our accommodation was large, old-style khaki tents with bucket showers and hanging canvas wash baskets. By day it was ridiculously hot and at night it was Dartmoor cold. The dusty wind let up for about an hour a day.

Apart from the food, which was really good at both camps, we were away from our usual comforts and soon realized that this was going to be a trip which would register highly on the strength-of-character scale.

In Botswana, as our guide explained, you are in a wilderness and you go out in the early morning and after sundown with a high-powered torch to see what you can find.

As it happened, during our three days at Kwando we were outrageously lucky and saw just about everything that Nature could chuck at us: basking hippos, a herd of shy zebra, every kind of antelope, two cheetah dragging their full bellies to the shade, a leopard running off with a dead baboon in its mouth being chased out of the area by 50 or so live ones, hyenas, jackals, wildebeest, buffalo, wart hogs and enough species of exotic bird to make an ornithologist twitch.

There was also an untapped stream of information from our guide about the way Nature works in the bush; how the acacia tree has evolved in tandem with the giraffe; why the leadwood tree stays standing for 50 years after it has died. The school field trip will never be the same for the children.

There were two guides on the Jeep, one driving and telling us about the landscape, the other, a lookout with awesome eyesight, sat on a small seat on the bonnet. (Kwando Only)

Occasionally, Lets, our lookout (tracker), would leave his perch and come and sit in the back seats with us.

This was when we were approaching the more dangerous animals, and was presumably to avoid him looking like the angry horns of the large Toyota beast.

Don't say a word (and don't move either)

We quickly learned to listen very carefully to Mr Fish, our guide at Kwando, not just because his knowledge was encyclopaedic, but also in order to avoid being speared, eaten or nibbled at by Nature.

'Don't turn your back on a lion, it will see you as prey' is more than an interesting or academic titbit when you are 15ft away from a mother lion whose cubs are gambolling towards you, and she is making a noise like a giant motorcycle turning over at four times less than its maximum potential.

By the end of the first day we were hanging on his every word. The boys were captivated; here was a real life Ace Ventura.

There were dents and a tusk-sized hole in the side of the Jeep where an elephant had recently skewered it when another guide had mistakenly thought he was showing his guests an example of a 'mock charge'.

We soon realized we were completely dependent on Mr Fish in this hostile terrain.

At night, we were relieved that he escorted us to our tent with his torch, because there was a hippo sniffing around it, and the main thing with a hippo, as Mr Fish explained, is not to get between it and the water because it will try to get back there when alarmed, destroying anything which gets in its way, including you.

Having seen the size of a hippo's open jaw that morning as its skull lay glinting in the sun being picked over by vultures, we were more than happy to let Mr Fish stamp on the ground and make funny noises at our night visitor until it had pottered off into the dark.

Possibly, what makes Botswana so special is that it is a relatively late starter in the safari business. It achieved independence in the mid-Sixties under Sir Seretse Khama, who established a multiparty democracy there, and he ensured that nearly 20 per cent of the land is protected.

In terms of conservation, Botswana is a world leader, something which became apparent at our second stop, Jack's Camp, on the edge of the largest salt pan desert in Africa. Our hardiness must have been improving because we managed the second light aircraft flight with a little more dignity, and were beginning to feel almost rugged.

The Makgadikgadi Pans is a place where geology, anthropology and a string of other ologies meet. As the water disappeared from what was, millions of years ago, a giant inland lake, all that was left was this vast area of dry, salty, white mud.

We drove out on to it on light quad bikes to avoid sinking, and encouraged by Indiana Jo, our macheteed guide - an even more heroic figure to the boys walked off to see what we could find. Within a quarter of an hour we had collected maybe 20 or 30 genuine Stone Age hand tools which had been lying around there for the past 200,000 years or so.

After re-scattering them, Jo gave us a brief, child-friendly talk about the shifting of tectonic plates and the difference between early and middle Stone Age man, before serving up gin and tonic (tonic contains quinine, an anti-malarial agent, and the boys didn't miss the gin).

When we watched the sun not so much set as fall behind the curve of the Earth, there being nothing but flat salt pan in every direction. I've never seen such a horizon, even at sea. Nor have I seen a canopy of stars so vast.

Three days later, there was salty dust in every crease and pore of our skins and thorn scratches on every available area of leg, having been out walking with bushmen who showed us how they lay traps for black korhaan birds, dig for porcupines and wrestle water out of the ground.

After a morning spent sitting around the massive baobab tree dedicated to the 19th-Century explorer Chapman listening to Indiana Jo tell us the story of Livingstone and explain to us the history of the carvings on the tree, we felt we were leathery travellers, and could handle anything that the Great Outdoors could spring on us.

Big Baobob Botswana

One of the boys said that this wasn't a holiday, it was a test of how brave you are. And by then we felt we were pretty brave.

In the visitors book at Jack's Camp we left the comment that the children, who are both under 10, had come out to Africa as boys, but were leaving it as men. When the going gets tough, the tough get on another light aircraft and fly back to Johannesburg with battered clothes, crusty, faithful boots and a faraway look in their eyes.

By the end of our trip, we'd been charged by 30 elephants, growled at by lions, shaken our shoes every morning for scorpions, and put ourselves through every precaution against malaria known to person kind (apart from Lariam, the one with the side-effects).

But nothing could compare with the test of endurance visited on us by Sabena.

On the return flight, our new-found nerves of steel began to erode during the five-hour wait on board the plane at Johannesburg prior to it being cancelled. We were dumped without a hotel room in the Jo'burg suburbs, with no one from Sabena to be seen.

This bunch of explorers had turned into a fractious mob arguing about Game Boy scores.

After 30 sleepless hours, we managed to transfer our return tickets to SAA and finally got home, minds expanded, to the laundry, the mail, the answerphone, and the leaking boiler.

We had been through the experience of a lifetime, out in a wilderness the size of France with the Kalahari dust still in our eyes, and fantastical images of leopards, cheetah, lions, giraffes, baboons and the freshly killed carcass of a zebra still vivid in our minds.

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Safaris Guide Profile : David Luck

Dave Luck

When Dave was a young child his parents relocated to Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia). The family settled in the small town of Kitwe on the Copper Belt. His father worked on the mines and was also a keen conservationist, actively involved with the Wildlife Society of which he later became Chairman.

Dave accompanied his father on many trips and quickly developed an interest in the fauna and flora and with the numerous books that his father gave him, developing an incredible all round knowledge ranging from amphibians to aardvarks. When cycling around Kitwe he would take his 17 pet chameleons with him!

In the early 1970s Luangwa was experiencing poaching elephant and rhino and in the 1979 Dave would accompany the rangers on patrols during his school holidays. This taught him exception bush skills and tracking and he became a good shot with the rifle.

His interests as a young African were numerous including fishing, swimming, drawing and painting and he developed a passion for photography. Demand for chimpanzees in zoos and private collections resulted in numerous orphans. He was involved in the building of a rehab centre outside Kitwe and this gave him the opportunity to observe the chimpanzees in close quarters.

In the afternoons after school Dave spent every available moment exploring the bush in search of anything great and small. He finished high school in 1979 and in 1980 David was drafted into the South African Defence Force and spent two years in Angola. Here, he had ample time to observe the little known Giant Sable.

His passion for books and photography made him choose a career in publishing and printing where he obtained a Diploma in Photolithography with Distinction. For 3 years he pursued the trade, but the bush made him homesick so he went to Zimbabwe and became a guide at Bumi Hills in the Matsusadona National Park

Dave has worked in many countries including Zimbabwe, Botswana and Malawi where he worked at a lakeside lodge and was involved in scuba diving safaris and yacht charters.

In 1999 he joined Okavango Wilderness Safaris as a houseboat captain and a river guide and later went on to manage Vumbura camp in the Okavango Delta.

In 2001 Dave joined the Privately Guided Safari division. He is currently running privately guided trips specializing in walking, catch and release fly fishing, sketching and painting, birding, elephant and leopard behavior and digital photography. Dave remains passionate about the bush and he shares this with his guests. He is a dedicated naturalist guide and wonderful host.

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Big Cat's Hunting Strategies

Cheetah Kill in Africa with vacationtechnician

Africa's three big cats - lion, leopard and cheetah - all capture and kill their prey in much the same manner as a domestic cat kills a mouse. The body proportions, dentition and claws of all cats - from lions to lynxes - is basically the same. Body size, social habits and habitat preferences are what separates most members of the family Felidae.

Although the way in which large cats stalk or approach their prey differs, the actual method of killing is similar. The first objective is to bring the quarry to the ground, and for medium-sized prey this is achieved by grasping the hindquarters. With its feet firmly on the ground, a lion or leopard pulls an antelope to the ground by hooking its talons into its rump and tugging downward. If in pursuit of fleeing prey, cats reach out with their forepaw to trip their quarry. For very large prey such as buffalo, lions may jump onto the animal's back, using their own body weight to topple the victim. Once an animal is off its feet, the cat goes for the throat or muzzle, clamping its jaws tight to suffocate the prey. With small prey, a bite is delivered to the neck to sever the spinal chord.

Natural Selection, Survival of the Fittest

Whenever a cat hunts and dispatches prey, it must minimise the chance of injuring itself - a sprained leg or broken canine tooth, could easily lead to starvation.

In many parts of Africa, lion, leopard and cheetah occur side-by-side. They are able to coexist because they have different habitat and prey preferences, which reduces competition. Different hunting strategies are employed not only by the different big cats, but also for the various prey species which they hunt.

Leopard
The leopard is the most adaptable of Africa's big cats, with the widest range of prey. Large males can tackle quarry up to the size of adult Topi although they rarely take such risks. Medium-sized and small antelope, as well as warthog, are favoured prey in most areas. The leopard relies on its stealth and patience to approach its prey. Successful hunts usually demand that the leopard surprises its victim, pouncing before it can react and pulling it to the ground. Smaller prey, such as hyraxes, hares and monkeys may be chased and cornered before being clawed and bitten on the back of the neck or throat. In some parts of their range, leopard are almost entirely nocturnal hunters, but in other areas (notably the South African lowveld) they are active throughout the day. Individual leopards may acquire a preference for certain prey animals and develop particular hunting strategies. Warthog may be captured as they leave or enter their underground burrows, entailing a lengthy wait for a patient leopard. Catfish will be plucked from shrinking pools at the end of the rainy season by a leopard which ignores other quarry.

Lion
Lion are the only truly social cats and adult females typically hunt in pairs or groups. When hunting favoured prey such as wildebeest or zebra, lions usually stalk to within 30 metres before rushing at them. In most cases the lions will wait until the quarry has turned away or has its head down. Once it detects danger, the victim bolts but it may be too late. On rare occasions, (and invariably in daylight) lion may ambush prey, with one member of the pride lying in wait as its partner forces the quarry to run in its direction. The sheer abundance of prey can also determine hunting strategies. When great herds of migratory wildebeest are milling about, lions can simply rush into them and pull down one or more of the confused animals. When the same herds gather to cross the Grumeti or Mara rivers, lions simply wait at favoured crossing points and pick off the startled wildebeest. Although male lions have the reputation (quite deserved) of pirating free meals from hardworking lionesses, they are called upon when extra large prey is tackled. Several females may corner and threaten a buffalo, but it will usually take a big male to topple such a beast. In northern Botswana, some large lion prides have taken to preying on young and even sub-adult elephant, and this entails tight teamwork to separate their targets from defensive adults. In South Africa's Kruger National Park, lions appear to have become adept at killing giraffe by attacking them on tarmac roads where the tall mammals lose their foothold on the slippery surface. Lions generally have a higher success rate when hunting after dark.

Cheetah
Built for speed, cheetah hunt by day. They are less reliant on stalking than leopard or lion, but most successful hunts involve walking slowly towards their prey, and ï¿½freezing' their posture each time the quarry looks in their direction. Once a cheetah gets to within a range of 50 metres or less, it will sprint towards the prey, instantaneously singling out one individual. With its quarry in full flight, the cheetah's strategy is to catch up with it and strike out, clipping its back legs. The faster a gazelle or antelope is running, the more readily it tumbles. Such a fall may cause a broken leg, but within seconds the cheetah takes hold of its victim's throat and clasps its jaws tightly. Cheetah only have about 300 metres in which to catch their prey, because they cannot continue at full speed beyond that. Gazelles often evade cheetah by turning sharply, while animals which stand their ground are rarely attacked. Cheetah are less adaptable than lions or leopards, but some individuals may become adept at hunting in thick bushland where sprinting is impossible. At Kwandwe, in the Eastern Cape Province, some Cheetah have broken all the 'rules' and have taken to hunting on moonlit nights.

Watching any of the big cats on the hunt is one of the most thrilling elements of a safari. With astute and sensitive guides and an intimate knowledge of predator territories vacationtechnician guided safaris provide some of the best opportunities to witness this behaviour.

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Africa: the best vacation in the World?

Africa with vacationtechnician.com

"When my mother took me to Botswana and Zimbabwe in 2001, I fully expected it to be the "trip of a lifetime," never imagining that I would become so passionate about Africa, needing to return every year. So, yes, Africa is the best vacation place I've ever been. Why?

First and foremost -seeing the wild animals in their natural habitat. I have had a lifelong love for animals and have refused to set foot in zoos for over 30 years.

I can't begin to describe the thrill when first seeing a herd of elephants on the shore of the Gache Gache River in Zimbabwe. Or, getting within five feet of the mountain gorillas in Uganda. For me, NOTHING can compare to those experiences.

I think, for me, Africa provides an experience that is so profoundly different from my day-to-day existence. I live in San Francisco and have lived here, in the heart of the city, for my entire adult life. While I've visited Paris, London, Rome, Florence, Venice, Brussels, New York, which all have their individual charm and beauty and excitement, they are, for me, just variations of all major cities.

It was not until I visited Africa that I realized that I am no longer intrigued or even interested in spending my vacations that way--running around a city, going to museums, hanging out in cafes, finding restaurants, shopping, etc. etc. I can do all that home.

Africa allows me to just be....I am forced to relax and just look and listen and smell...No other place on earth provides that type of serenity".

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"The answer to the question for me is absolutely, completely, whole-heartedly, YES.

I have been completely around the world over a period of 2 years, years ago.
Went from east to west (starting in the states and then Hawaii, Japan etc.). Other times I have visited and lived in several countries.

Out of all of these, Africa is my favorite. Africa is special.

Outside of Africa, the country that makes the deepest impression is India, however I will never consider it a holiday - it is an experience. Some favorite cities - Kyoto, London. Crete was a wonderful holiday location.

But for me, an animal lover, everything pales compared to Africa.

-Waking up in the bush and wondering what wonderful animals I'll see today...?

-Heading out to a new camp and wondering what interesting people I'll meet.

Typically when we travel in other places we don't meet a lot of new people, at least not long enough to have a two-hour dinner conversation.

In Africa you do.

Wonderful, adventurous people that are also traveling and kind gentle people who live in Africa. I just feel that traveling in Africa was like nothing else I had done before and yes, it meant so much to me that I wish everyone I know could experience it.

I never felt so alive as I did there".

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April 21, 2004

5 Rivers Northern Botswana Safari >part 2<

Kwando Kwara Safari Camp Botswana

Part One of this article found here.

" Iï¿½ll just go and grab your pilot, I think heï¿½s having a fag.ï¿½

So spoke my down-to-earth air charter representative upon welcoming me back to Maun while transferring me to my next aerial roller coaster ride ï¿½ yet another tiny Cessna ï¿½ which would wing me northwards to Kwando Kwara Camp in a private concession north of the Moremi Game Reserve, bang smack in the middle of the Okavango Deltaï¿½s seasonal flood plains.

Indeed, my pilot ï¿½ Steve, a Kiwi like 30% of all charter pilots in Maun ï¿½ was having a smoke while watching the dying seconds of the Rugby World Cup Final.
He greeted me some minutes later informing me with a sly grin that Australia had just been deprived of victory via the boot of Englandï¿½s Johnny Wilkinson. I moaned, in true South African fashion, that the poms would be even more insufferable than usual, completely ignoring my birth and upbringing in Cambridge.

In truth, the Rugby World Cup seemed a million miles away, as did every other intrusive accoutrement of the modern era, such as cell phones, faxes, e-mails and motorcars. Where I was headed, they meant nothing.

Forty minutes later I was being driven in an open Toyota Hilux through the dense bush by Charles and his chirpy tracker Muluki towards Kwara Camp.

Kwara is one of four camps which make up the Kwando Circuit. The circuit includes Lagoon Camp and Lebala Camp in the Kwando private game reserve further north on the edge of the Linyanti swamps and close to the Caprivi Strip, Kwara Camp in the Delta itself and Songwe Village just outside Livingstone in neighbouring Zambia. Kwara is situated north of and adjacent to the Moremi Game Reserve. Itï¿½s in the centre of the 175,000-hectare Kwara concession which fronts the permanent water of the 1,6-million hectare delta and is backed by bush and open seasonal flood plains.

The camp consists of 8 tents sleeping 16 guests and is run by the affable Peter Gordon and his bubbly wife Anita Els, both of whom do an excellent job as enthusiastic hosts at the camp.

Kwando Lagoon.

Arrival at the camp offers some much needed respite from the sun, with the overhanging trees providing excellent shade. Welcomes are made in the lounge area, with its comfortable couches and chairs overlooking the seasonal flood plains in front of the camp. To one side is a bar where guests are invited to help themselves if no one is around to look after their needs.

Indeed, this is an attitude prevalent in all of the camps ï¿½ basically make yourself at home and help yourself! It makes for a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere with no one expecting silver service waitors to fuss over their every desire. In any event, if thereï¿½s something you want that you canï¿½t find yourself, thereï¿½s always one of the helpful camp staffers to help out.

Alongside the lounge and bar area is a roomy dining room which overlooks a small plunge pool. The pool enjoys the shelter of the shade trees as well with the result that the water is always wonderfully cool and visited regularly by the paradise flycatchers which nest overhead.

The tents are set amongst the trees to the other side of the lounge area and consist of two comfortable single beds, side tables and drawers and a small wardrobe. There is a flushing toilet and twin basins in a separate bathroom to the rear of the tent and an outside shower. A small stoep with deck chairs and tables makes the perfect place to sit, binoculars in hand, while surveying the countryside beyond the trees for animal activity.

Kwando Lagoon

The real activity takes place out on the early morning and late afternoon game drives and Charles and Muluki were expert at finding it. Or rather racing to it.

Our forays into the bush netted some excellent sightings, including an over-ambitious night adder trying to eat an over-inflated bullfrog, wild dog, lions bringing down a female giraffe and a young male leopard who thought heï¿½d take on first a water monitor which was bigger than he was, and second a herd of tsessebe who looked at him as if he was taking the proverbial urine.

The lion kill was a double-edged sword. A pride of lionesses had made the kill with two small cubs at heel. When we first sighted them they were feasting happily being watched from afar by two curious, and hungry males who were not part of the pride. Later that afternoon the males attacked the pride and killed the cubs, stealing the kill for themselves. We found the cubsï¿½ pitiful little bodies that evening. I couldnï¿½t bring myself to take pictures.

Dinners were spent discussing the daysï¿½ sightings while contending with sumptuous home-cooked meals and some excellent wine.

Alternatives to the game drives are just as exciting for those who love the bush. I tried out a bush walk with Charles and we ended up tracking some lions. Little did we know that they were a mere 40 metres away in the long grass watching us with as much interest as we had in their tracks.

The bush walk brought us to the mokoro station, deep in the bush on one of the myriad small channels which eventually join the Godikwe lagoon system. A mokoro ride is an absolute must for anyone visiting the Okavango. Poled gently through the small, reed-lined channels, a mokoro gives visitors a hippo-eyed view of the swamps and is perhaps the most tranquil and relaxing way to experience the Delta.

At Kwara there is also the option of a river safari on a sort of double-decker boat with an upstairs viewing platform affording endless views of the waterways and surrounding bush. The river ride takes in several islands where marabou and yellow-billed storks nest, and where at sunset, over a few bloody marys, you can marvel as birds from every corner of the Delta come home to roost for the night.

Itï¿½s a hard life; this safari business and days melt seamlessly into one another. For the first time in a long time I felt the thrill of true relaxation and actually forgot what day it was, far from the madding crowd and intrusive cell phone.

Communication in the bush is done by radio, and certain camps have bush mail ï¿½ a kind of e-mail done over radio waves, but apart from that isolation rules. For some it may be a worry, but in reality it only takes an hour for a plane to be dispatched in an emergency, and the camps all have emergency medical evacuation cover for guests in the event of something untoward happening.

After two leisurely nights at Kwara, I bade farewell to my hosts and once more enjoyed the pleasures of low flying at midday on a full tummy (brunch inevitably coincided with close encounters of a Cessna kind) for the 25-minute transfer north from Kwara to Lebala Camp, virtually on the Namibian border at the Caprivi Strip. Kwando Lebala and its sister camp, Kwando Lagoon, are situated inside the original 232,000-hectare Kwando concession.

Kwando is the brainchild of near-legendary Botswanan John Mynhardt and is run by MD and president Kevin Leo-Smith. Leo-Smith was one of founders of Phinda Resource Reserve which grew into Conservation Corporation Africa. He is very much a hands-on leader and lives in Maun with his wife, former tennis star Greer Stevens.

The terrain around Lebala is completely different to Kwara, providing an awesome contrast to the latter. Dry dusty plains give way to lush vegetation and sweeping lagoons and river systems on the edge of the Linyanti swamps which lead down towards what was the Selinda spillway. The spillway is dry, for now at least, but a season or two of good rains would more than likely change that.

Lebala Camp is a 25-minute drive from the airstrip and in the heat and dust of noon it was a trip which left me determined not to wear shorts again on open vehicles as I could feel my knees frying in the harsh glare.

Lebala Camp Botswana with vacationtechnician.com

Guide Spencer and tracker Silver didnï¿½t seem to notice the heat as I tried to protect my exposed flesh with my hands but pointed out to me that anything with half a brain game-wise would be under cover of whatever shade they could find. I agreed and wondered about mad dogs and Englishmen as the temperature soared past the 40 mark.

The drive was thankfully over quick enough and soon we were enjoying cooling beers in Lebalaï¿½s shady open-air bar, trying to rehydrate desiccated flesh while enjoying the company of Lebala Camp manager Gareth Flemix.

There are eight tents at Lebala. Actually, calling them tents is a bit of an understatement. Sure, they look like tents from the outside ï¿½ all khaki and blending in with the surroundings. But inside they are absolutely huge with an enormous double bedroom-cum-sitting room with two larger than average divans, a large raised deck complete with chairs and tables overlooking the dusty plain, a separate dressing area which doubles as a study, with drawers, shelves and a small wardrobe, and an equally gigantic bathroom with twin basins, the usual flushing loo and a full-size pedestal bath complemented by an outside shower.

Bigger than the average hotel suite, Lebala gets full marks for accommodation and shows just what you can achieve under canvas in the middle of nowhere.

Lebala Tent Bedroom

And it is remote. But stunning nonetheless.

Within half an hour of my settling in by the plunge pool I was treated to the sight of a large breeding herd of elephants filing past not 100 metres away. Indeed, some of the experiences at Lebala will go down as legends in my personal records. For example, on my first afternoon a huge dust storm built up on the plains outside my tent. I watched from my deck as twisters pulled the dust up into the atmosphere, silently building into a huge pall which an ever-strengthening blast of hot, dry air began to drive towards the camp.

As it approached I heard wild trumpeting and Garethï¿½s excited yells to the rear of my tent. I went to the door and was greeted by the sight of a rampaging and obviously very upset young bull elephant charging past within a couple of metres of me, blasting on his horn for all he was worth, closely followed by Gareth madly clapping his hands and making almost as much noise.

The afternoon drive that day was amazing, with us witnessing the first, faltering steps of a newborn wildebeest and having sundowners within a couple of metres of some very garrulous hippos, who treated us to a water ballet par excellence. Darkness brought with it what seemed to be Africaï¿½s entire population of spring hares and my first wild African rock python, which Spencer put at just short of the four-metre long mark. Our return to the camp was accompanied by the local hyena clan, who promptly chased an African wild cat through the bar as we were downing a few pre-dinner drinks.

Dawn the following day brought with it a pack of wild dogs who were also chased through camp by the hyenas. They ran over to the airstrip where they quickly caught and ate on the spot five young impala.

The dogs of Lebala are becoming legends in their own lunchtimes and have become a passion for Gareth and his head guide Steve, who have been recording their activities in minute detail for the past few years.

In spite of its remote position, Lebala is for me a large slice of paradise and one which I intend returning to regularly. Itï¿½s a marvelous place to unwind and reflect on lifeï¿½s real meaning.

African Wild Dog at Kwando

But sadly, all good things must end, and this portion of my Five Rivers Safari had, all too quickly, or so it seemed. A 50-minute flight in the ubiquitous Cessna back to Maun put me back on Air Botswana for the flight back to Johannesburg via Gaborone. But, in the words of the Terminator, Iï¿½ll be back. And finish what Iï¿½ve started.

When I left the first instalment of the Five Rivers Safari it was at the end of November on the hot, dusty plains of Kwando Lebala in the far north of Botswana. My return, to pick up my tour of the nine camps participating in the safari, put me in the familiar surroundings of Livingstone in Zambia but with a huge difference ï¿½ rain, and lots of it had transformed this often oppressively hot and dry region into a lush and verdant wonderland.

Welcome to the green season, and the long awaited, life-bringing deluges this far-flung part of the world had needed for so long.

Songwe Village was to be my first port of call on this second half of my Five Rivers Safari, which I resumed with Nationwide Flight CE 202 from Johannesburg International to Livingstone.

I must say, Nationwide is developing into a fine airline and one South Africans can be truly proud of. I am impressed most of all with their levels of service and friendliness which put the often sour faces of their major competitors to shame. At the end of the day a trip by plane, whether short haul or international, should be a pleasurable experience, not something to endure. Nationwide seem to realise this and make the 90-odd minutes to Livingstone pass with pleasant ease.

It was sunny when I landed in Livingstone and a week or so of rains earlier in January meant that the nearby Victoria Falls were almost at peak flow, filling the air with their thrilling mist which gives them their local name ï¿½ Mosi o Tunya ï¿½ the smoke that thunders.

I was met by Songwe manager Dorothy Shinga and guide-cum-driver Munkombwe and began the journey to Songwe Point, which is approximately 14km out of town. However, itï¿½s a long haul at 45-minutes due to the rough, and I do mean rough, road. Once off the main tar road itï¿½s a spot of major bundu bashing over rock and through mud to get to the village. But itï¿½s more than worth the trek.

As we pulled into Songwe the sun was steadily being overtaken by steely grey clouds, with the huge thunderheads forming on the horizon a sign of things to come.

Like Lebala, Kwara and Lagoon camps, Songwe is part of the Kwando family.

But itï¿½s very different to its stable-mates.

Songwe offers participants in the Five Rivers safari a chance to get down and cultural. Itï¿½s akin to getting up close and personal with rural Africa.

Accommodation in the village is in traditional huts, simply but comfortably furnished and with the added luxury of en-suite toilets and showers. The bathrooms have no windows but low walls at the sink and shower afford the aforementioned stunning views of the gorge and the stretch of the Zambezi between rapids 10 and 13, well-known to white-water rafters.

Songwe Village sits on top and at the tip of a 700 foot narrow cliff peninsula overlooking the Zambezi River: SPECTACULAR!

It could so easily have been kitsch, but Songwe is anything but. In typical Kwando style the marriage of tradition, comfort and convenience is seamless and works perfectly. Sinks in the bathroom are large enamel bowls with a single, cold tap. In the early morning a large iron kettle is placed outside the door of the hut for freshening up purposes. The showers are basic but have hot and cold water and all the intricacies are there, but in a low-key, traditional way. The mirror is framed in recycled fanta cans, the enamel wear is everywhere, from the mugs for your toothbrush to the rubbish bin.

The beds are made from rustic poles and the linen is a mix of pure colonial cotton sheets and locally woven textile throws with the compulsory mosquito net ï¿½ an absolute must in this malaria-ridden region.

The huts are arranged in a traditional village formation around a central area where chickens and goats roam freely. On each side are two additional huts which house double showers and huge luxurious Victorian-style baths. One set of these bathroom facilities faces sunrise over the gorge, and the other ï¿½ you guessed it ï¿½ sunset. The baths are positioned slightly raised to afford marvelous views as you relax and soak with a glass of something everso slightly refined from the makeshift bar in the central living area.

This is housed in its own, open hut to one side of the kitchen hut at the end of the village, close to the edge of the gorge. Here you relax on plump cushions on a built-in bench around the perimeter of the hut, which has a small fire pit at its centre. Meals are taken here, eaten off your lap or, on occasion, at a makeshift but perfectly functional table.

The idea, and it works marvelously, is to get you to relax and experience what itï¿½s like to be part of a proper, working village.

During a stay at Songwe guests get the chance to experience a proper, traditional village dinner, eaten seated on a cushion on the floor using your fingers as cutlery. Dorothy, who runs Songwe with her husband Emanuel, explained that some guests are squeamish when it comes to eating in such an al fresco manner and that forks and knives are optional. Not for me. I dived in with both hands making short shift of the delicious shuma (pap), beef and chicken stews and assorted veggies such as spinage and pumpkin.

Itï¿½s a great experience and a refreshing change to table dï¿½hote and a jacket and tie affair.

After dinner entertainment comes in the form of some impromptu drumming and marimba playing, singing and dancing. Guests are invited to join in with their own favourite songs, but somehow my rendition of Hotel California seemed out of place in this devine and oh-so relaxed setting.

Activities at Songwe are equally relaxed, with guests learning about the cultural heritage of the local Mukuni tribe, which has lived in this area since the 13th century, having migrated from northern Cameroon.

The village of Songwe itself is part of the greater Mukuni village and is home to about 1500 people. Guests can visit the village where there are several curio stalls offering a range of arts and crafts made by the local villagers.

You are also taken across to Mukuni itself, by ox-wagon when the weather permits, but in this sticky season the road is much more suited to the village Landrovers. Mukuni is home to a further 7000 people, all overseen by senior chief or Munokalya Patrick Siloka Mukuni. Chief Siloka has been the main man since 1985 and rules over his people with a Bedyango or Chieftainess who is equal to him in stature but from a different lineage.

During my visit to Mukuni I was taken to Lumpasa palace to meet the incumbent Bedyango, Anne Siloka, who although she shares his name is actually not related to the Chief. Chief Silokaï¿½s lineage goes back generations. His ancestors met David Livingstone under a huge acacia tree outside Lumpasa palace.

Songwe Village is heavily involved in community development with the villagers, using tourism to inject much-needed resources into the communities via the Mukuni Environmental, Cultural and Economic Development Trust with the assistance of guests who participate in cultural activities and tours and buy curios from the stalls.

After the tour of Mukuni it was off to the Livingstone Museum to learn more about the area. Livingstone is very proud of its namesake, the inimitable Dr David, and he naturally features heavily in the exhibits, with his hat, coat, gun, box of medical instruments and medical qualifications all displayed lovingly along with in depth information about his life and contribution to the community around the falls.

Also on display are exhibits illustrating the geographical, geological, anthropological and biological histories of the region and the recent political history of Zambia. Itï¿½s a small museum, and desperately in need of funding, but itï¿½s a start and an indication of the pride the local community has in its roots.

Then it was off on a sundowner cruise on the river with Safari par Excellence, which, at $60 per person is not bad value for money, including as it does tasty snacks and all drinks during the three-hour cruise.

The morning of my departure from Songwe was when the weather decided to mess with my itinerary, preventing my transfer by air charter. Early morning thunderstorms had given birth to flash floods, one of which emerged from the solid rock wall of the cliff-face opposite my hut with a roar of earthquake proportions heralding its approach.

The inclement weather played havoc across the region causing airports to close and flights to be cancelled and is a good illustration of how traveling in this part of the world is never cast in stone. Flexibility is an absolute must. As is patience. But in a smooth and impressively professional manner alternative arrangements were made for a road transfer to Kasane, some 70km away, where I would pick up my flight to Lianshulu Lodge in the East Caprivi area of Namibia.

Itï¿½s a strange part of the world, where international borders abound. One minute youï¿½re in Zambia, a short boat trip across the confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi rivers and youï¿½re in Botswana, and before you can say Jack Robinson itï¿½s Namibia. And there, on the horizon is Angola. And in the other direction is Zimbabwe. So began a curious series of immigration posts and 20-minute transits which have made my passport rather full and interesting. Four countries in one day is not unusual here.

The flight from Kasane to Lianshulu with was smooth and thankfully interesting enough to make the 50-minute journey pass quickly. Pilot Gerd Niehaus pointed out the Chobe and Zambezi flood plains and the temporary fields and grazing which in a few short weeks time would be under water.

Lianshulu Lodge is located in the Eastern Caprivi on the Namibian side of the Kwando River. Itï¿½s situated in a small, 800-hectare private concession in the Mudumu National Park, which covers around 800 square kms. Due to the general inaccessibility of the river, Lianshulu has exclusive use of the meandering waterways and lagoons, whilst other vehicles are rarely encountered on nature drives in the park, conveying a powerful sense of remoteness.

Indeed, the only other camp in the park, Bush Lodge, is part of Lianshulu.
The lodges are owner-run by Ralph Meyer-Rust and his partner, Sharon Theron. Ralph co-owns the lodge with partners Jonathan Gibson, and Peter Koep, of legendary status in the Namibian legal profession. Bush Lodge Managers, Beverley and Flavien Daguise, also lend a hand, making sure that guestsï¿½ needs are well catered for.

Lianshulu is a Lozi name meaning ï¿½the place of spring haresï¿½.

The lodge consists of 11 very private and intimate rooms nestled on the edge of a lagoon which is part of the Kwando river system. All have views of the water and the ubiquitous hippo population which provides all-day entertainment accompanied by a cacophony of grunts.

The rooms are luxuriously appointed and are in the process of being transformed into veritable palaces with lots of cool tiles, enormous bathrooms and living space for Africa.

Sumptuous meals are taken in the main complex with its huge deck overlooking the Lianshulu lagoon and, yes, more of those marvelous hippos. In the dry season elephant compete for the water, giving game buffs some exhilarating encounters with the wild. Thereï¿½s also a marvelously shady pool area which was a major drawcard for me in the often humid conditions.

Activities include the nature walks, river safaris and game drives which make up an integral part of each day, and are interspersed with marvelously impromptu bush brunches served al fresco on islands in the river. Daily itineraries are tailor-made to suit guests with Ralph at pains to make the point that life at Lianshulu is geared towards slowing down and absorbing the natural beauty of the area.

At this time of year, with everything so wet and water not in short supply, the game is more dispersed but the hues and colours of green Africa more than make up for the lack of action. And the birding is out of this world. I was quickly adding new ticks to my check-list with lesser jacana, lesser moorhen and African finfoot among the endemic species I spotted.

In addition to hosting and entertaining guests with some riveting fireside stories, Ralph is also something of an expert on the area, having worked in it as a guide and expedition leader for more than 20 years. Heï¿½s a fount of knowledge on the areaï¿½s biodiversity, political history and geographical composition. My guide, Peter Damson, a Zimbabwean from Kariba, was also extremely well-informed and knowledgeable.

So what about that history aspect? Most of us know the Caprivi as the place ï¿½ons manneï¿½ went to fight the Swapo gevaar. But the Caprivi is so much more than the 14-day war. Itï¿½s origins are long and complicated. Originally conceived by Germany in the late 1800s it was used as a political football between Britain and Germany. Control over it was gained through intense political bartering which also affected the history of neighbouring areas such as Bechuanaland (now Botswana) and Northern Rhodesia which is now Zambia. It occupies a strategic but very isolated position juxtaposed between Angola in the north, Zambia to the north-east and east, Botswana in the south and Zimbabwe in the south-east.

Lianshulu is heavily involved in community development in the area, most notably with the original creation of the Kwando thatching industry and the initial inception of Lizauli village where for a small fee of R25 guests can experience the culture and traditions of the local tribespeople, including a consultation with a dancing medicine man.

The area around Lianshulu is rich in natural history as well. The Mudumu is home to a broad range of species, from the Big Four (there are, sadly, no rhino in this part of the world) in season to impressive herds of impala and zebra.

I took the option of a nature walk with Peter, checking out the smaller and sometimes infinitely more interesting details of fauna and flora that only walking brings you into contact with.

I also had the opportunity to experience the intricacies of a cross-border transfer along the river, with guests coming in from Kwando Lagoon campï¿½s airstrip, an hour by boat upriver, going through the formalities of leaving Botswana and entering Namibia under a makeshift riverside immigration post run by the Botswana Defence Force. It all runs smoothly, in spite of being hundreds of kilometres away from the intricacies of ï¿½civilizationï¿½ and goes a long way to making the Five Rivers Safari one of the best ways to visit several different countries on one trip.

On my second afternoon at Lianshulu I was beginning to get the feeling that the weather was following me. The heavens literally opened just as I was about to depart on a sunset river safari and put paid to any birdwatching ideas I may have had. It gave me the opportunity to spend more time in the excellent company of Ralph and Sharon and was a great illustration of how well Lianshulu copes with keeping guests happy when the weather says ï¿½izzit?ï¿½.

From Lianshulu it was a quick road trip down the trans-Caprivi highway and back into the dense bush to Susuwe Island Lodge.

Along with Impalila Island Lodge ï¿½ my final destination on this marathon journey ï¿½ Susuwe is part of Islands.

Located on Birre Island on a peaceful stretch of the Kwando known as Carmine corner, the lodge is surrounded by the Bwabwata National Park. Itï¿½s pristine wilderness which some may remember as the base of SADF activites in the Caprivi at Fort ï¿½Doppiesï¿½. Indeed, the remains of the camp can still be seen as you leave the park.

The contrast between its neighbours is stark. Encompassing vast flood plains and Kalahari woodlands, gone is the thick loam of Lianshulu, replaced by the distinctive white sand of the Kalahari basin whose dunes form the base for some of the elevated lookout points which made the area so important for the military.

Running the show at Susuwe is Bruce Lawson. Bruce is literally a legend of the Southern African bush, having walked from the Cape to Cairo and led overland birding safaris for many years. Birds are his speciality, which is no surprise when you learn that his dad is the Lawson of Lawsonï¿½s Birding Safaris. Time spent with Bruce on the activities at Susuwe is invaluable as you tap into his incredible wealth of knowledge and experience. During my stay I spotted the rare Arnotï¿½s chat and some beautifully colourful violet-eared waxbills. Indeed, this is the area for rare avians, with pygmy geese also putting in several appearances.

Together with head guide-in-waiting Sean Braine, a Namibian whose home is Etosha, Bruce makes sure that a stay at Susuwe is an education in all that makes the place special.

Itï¿½s a small lodge, with six beautiful suites positioned to enjoy views over the Kwando to the flood plains. Built in a blend of wood, thatch and reed, each suite is spacious offering some of the best of lifeï¿½s little luxuries such as hairdryers and private plunge pools overlooking the river. Thereï¿½s something special about relaxing in a plunge pool, bloody mary in hand, and gazing into the wilds of Africa. Especially when blue waxbills and brown firefinches are pecking at a feeder full of millet not a metre away from you and swamp boubous are catching dragonflies in front of your very nose!

Meals are eaten communally at the main complex with its beautiful open lounge areas leading onto the riverine forest and river beyond. Elevated viewing platforms offer a chance to get up into the canopy of overhanging trees and afford some lovely views of the river and woodland beyond.

Speaking of meals, be warned ï¿½ none of the camps on the Five Rivers Safari are geared towards those watching their weight! All of the food is outstanding with some fabulous dishes being washed down with no small amount of fine wine. If anything, thereï¿½s just too much of it. But thereï¿½s always time for siesta, if you can drag yourself away from the bush.

Elephants are no strangers to the area as Susuwe annually witnesses huge migrations of breeding herds, with often as many as 1000 animals observed at Horseshoe, an oxbow on the river a short drive from the lodge.

Susuwe is involved with the local Mayuni conservancy group in a joint venture partnership. This progressive approach to interaction between lodge guests and local tribal trusts has been of huge benefit to the community and to sustaining conservation in the area.

And so to the last outpost on this marathon trip ï¿½ Impalila Island Lodge.

Another 50-minute flight took me almost back to Kasane, landing at Impalilaï¿½s airstrip from where transfer is made via a short drive and longer, and very impressive boat trip through the Kasai Channel which links the Chobe and Zambezi rivers.

Impalila Island Lodge is located in an unusual position on the borders of four neighbouring countries. At the very tip of the eastern Caprivi it is situated on Namibian soil, but across the Zambezi is Zambia, and next to it Zimbabwe and Botswana which borders the Chobe.

Built on the tip of Impalila island at a place called Kamavozu ï¿½ the place of baobabs ï¿½ the lodge overlooks a section of the Zambezi known as the Mambova Rapids.

Fitingly, a huge baobab dominates the entrance to the lodge. Itï¿½s one of three in the area, with the other at the rear of the main complex and a massive, 2000-year-old specimen a short nature walk away.

Owner manager Simon Parker runs Impalila with the help of his partner, Renee (accent over first e please) te Roller. Simon has been at Impalila since its inception, 9 years ago. Heï¿½s something of an expert on the area and has become a local hero to the island tribespeople, often helping them in times of need. As he points out, no lodge of this kind can function without the cooperation of the local residents and there is a huge responsibility attached to a venture of this kind. He regularly ferries the island police officers, who, curiously, do not have their own boat, and has on more than one occasion used his boats as ambulances for seriously injured local villagers, some the victims of crocodile attacks.

Itï¿½s a beautiful place and quite unique in its position so close to so many major international boundaries. And itï¿½s very private, with the nearest major human structure Island in Africaï¿½s new venture, Ntwala Island Lodge, still to be completed on a neighbouring island.

Eight en-suite chalets are positioned along the rapids, enveloped in dense rainforest with private decks positioned to best enjoy the swirling waters which pass almost beneath them. The sound of rushing water is everywhere and lulls you to sleep each night under the safety of your mosquito net in huge, king-sized beds.

The suites are cozy and comfortable, built in wood, thatch and reed with plump wingback chairs and ottomans the perfect place to sit and listen to the river and the sounds of this water-bound wonderland.

The majority of activities at Impalila revolve around water. Game viewing is done by boat back through the Kasai Channel to the Chobe National Park. Itï¿½s a wonderful journey into Africa and offers some great views of Chobeï¿½s famed elephants and even big cats who target the wide river banks and the antelope they attract.

Guide Albert Muyoba has very sharp eyes and spotted some excellent things for me to photograph, including two of the biggest water monitors I have ever seen and a young bull elephant enjoying the best bath ever.

Then thereï¿½s fishing, and guide Haydn Willens who is ever-willing to share his passion for the piscine. A fly-fishing enthusiast, Durban-born Haydn, who is also a top competitive bream fisherman, taught this particular blonde the ins and outs of landing tiger fish ï¿½ which the Zambezi is famed for.

He must be a good teacher because I soon posed for pics with my very first tiger, a mere tiddler at 1,5 kgs but nonetheless a fighter which took no small amount of wrestling to reel in. All fish are caught and released again, so there was no remorse at my newfound skill.

Like all of its colleagues on the Five Rivers Safari, Impalila is tip top when it comes to service. Especially when it comes to matters culinary with student chef Charl Kleu, who hails from Centurion near Pretoria, literally cooking up a storm. I wanted to bring him home with me but he wouldnï¿½t fit in my bag. Sad, but then its an incentive to go back and visit Impalila again!

My journey home from Impalila was again indicative of the curious position of the island. By boat to the other side of the island where Namibia has a small border post. Checking out of Namibia itï¿½s off by boat to Kasane and a riverside immigration office where you check in to Botswana. From there itï¿½s a 20-minute journey by road to Kazungula where you check out of Botswana, nip across the river by boat or ferry and check into Zambia for the 40-minute road trip to Livingstone airport, where you finally check out of Zambia and onto the Nationwide flight home. Phew! Itï¿½s an interesting, if not exhausting series of ins and outs. Blink and youï¿½ll miss an entire country.

My overall impression on finally coming to the end of my journey is that I have found some of the most wonderful places in Africa, and all of them literally on my doorstep. Our immediate neighbours are not so far away and more than worthy of a visit. Everyone I encountered on the way was friendly, and passionately patriotic. And they all want to see more of us. The Five Rivers Safari will certainly see to that.

Part One of this article found here.

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April 20, 2004

5 Rivers Safari Northern Botswana

Game Drive in Botswana with the Kwando Safaris Tracker on the bumper scanning the bush and the footprints in the sand..

Part 2 of this article found here

Iï¿½ve often wondered how Grace Kelly and Ava Gardner managed to beat their way through the African bush in the old Hollywood classic ï¿½Mogamboï¿½ without ever breaking out into a sweat. And (in Avaï¿½s case, at least) in high heeled mules to boot!

Iï¿½ve just been on safari and I ï¿½perspiredï¿½ considerably, but then I left the old stilettos at home (tottering can be tiresome).

Safari. Itï¿½s a wonderful word, evoking images of colonial sorts striding out into the wilds of Africa in very inappropriate clothing, sleeping in scorpion-infested tents and drinking copious amounts of gin and tonic to fend off malaria, old chap.

A lot has changed, thankfully, but the modern equivalent still offers a chance to get up close and personal with the spirit of mother Africa.

Under the cloak of the ï¿½Five Rivers Safariï¿½ you can choose between areas as diverse as the Okavango Delta, Central Kalahari, Caprivi Strip and the Upper Zambezi basin.

Safaris these days require you to pack light (sorry, Ava) with a maximum of 12kgs in a soft bag and the usual hand baggage. This is because transfers between camps are in small five or six-seater Cessnas, so bags have to be squished into tight spaces, as do passengers. Basically, if youï¿½re not a contortionist when you leave, you sure as hell are when you return!

Mogambo

In my case the squishing began in Maun with vacationtechnician Air, one of several charter companies working out of the northern Botswana town. A 25-minute flight north in the blistering heat of midday with the charming Faris at the controls brought us to the first port of call - Xakanaxa Camp.

The name requires some bushman-like clicking to produce it properly, but most non-clickers like me pronounce it Kaka-naka. Run by Bob and Flo Flaxman, the camp is located on the Khwai River in an area of seasonal swamp in the Moremi Game Reserve. Itï¿½s undeniably one of the prettiest spots around, shaded by jackalberries, morulas and knob-thorns and overlooking vast expanses of reeds, which are occupied by a veritable cornucopia of birdlife.

Xakanaxa has its own resident crocodile; a small family of bushbuck and a hippo nicknamed Pavarotti which is prone to midnight strolls around camp.

The camp consists of a large reception area and small curio shop, 12 twin-bedded tents, with a communal lounge area, dining room and boma-style fireplace where guests gather after dinner to exchange stories of the dayï¿½s adventures. There is also a plunge pool set in a small pool deck with a separate lapa-cum-sala providing much-needed shade in the heat of the day.

A short walk from the main camp is Pandaniï¿½s, a satellite camp of four tents with their own lounge and dining area and separate plunge pool overlooking a small lagoon on the Khwai.

Pandaniï¿½s can be booked out in its entirety by small groups of up to eight people through vacationtechnician.com.
The tents themselves are a marvelous illustration of how camping need not mean roughing it. High twin beds swathed in percale cotton linen with log-hewn furniture offering space to unpack clothes and store essentials. Rugs on the floor lead footfalls to the en-suite bathroom. Surrounded by wooden fencing to fend off prying eyes both human and animal, the toilet, basin and shower offer the chance for guests to commune with nature.

Hot and cold running water and an inexhaustible supply of Doom, Tabard and Peaceful Sleep mean that you stay clean while bugs (and there are plenty of them) are for the most part kept at bay.

At this juncture it is probably best that I mention something which may seem obvious. Bush camps are not for those who scream at every little creepy crawly or worry about wild Africa coming too close for comfort. After dark you do not wander around ï¿½ you are escorted to and from your humble abode to and from the dining room and lounge areas. There are no fences to keep small hairy things and larger, furry things out. There is only your tent canvas or lodge wall to keep you in.

Animals and goggas wander in, and out of camp with impunity. And by animals I mean everything from water monitors, snakes, monkeys and hippos to hyenas, lions, leopards and elephants.

After dark there is generally no power, meaning that light is provided by storm lamps, oil lanterns and candles. Mosquito coils keep the little biters away and the only way to keep a good flow of air through your abode is to keep flaps down or windows open. Malaria is a very real and ever-present problem and anti-malarial measures are a must, whether it be medication or spraying thoroughly each night.

Indeed, a healthy respect for and interest in bugs is probably an advantage while on safari. In the rainy season especially the lights around the dinner table at night can attract a huge range of bugs, from cicadas (press them gently and they buzz obligingly) and grasshoppers to long-horned beetles and several kinds of mantis.

At Xakanaxa the Flaxmans do everything they can to make your stay the most enjoyable it can be, and you soon settle into a nice routine. Early-morning wake-ups begin each day, with coffee, tea and biscuits and cereals at the lounge before heading off with your guide on a three-hour game drive.

Xakanaxa Camp Tent Moremi Reserve Botswana

The guides are all very experienced and knowledgeable about the area and its diversities. Some, like Metsi, named after the water, have had some very close encounters with the Moremiï¿½s four-legged inhabitants.

Back at Xakanaxa generally by 10 o clock, Flo and Bob greet you and escort you to the dining room for a lavish and exceedingly filling brunch, after which the rest of the morning and early afternoon are yours to relax, catch up on some snoozing and cool off in the plunge pool. Then itï¿½s tea-time with cakes and snacks and off on a late afternoon drive, stopping for sundowners at a suitable spot en route before returning to camp for dinner and drinks around the fire.

The meals are wonderful, with home-cooked fare lovingly prepared and presented. The wine flows and after-dinner Amarulas are the perfect way to wind down for bedtime in Utopia.

Xakanaxa Lounge Sunset

Guests have the option of taking game drives in the Moremi or boat trips into the swamps, with short forays into the reed-lined channels on the traditional mokoros. These days the mokoros are fibre-glass as opposed to hollowed out trees in an effort to protect the woodlands around the swamps.

The Moremi Game Reserve has everything but rhino. Consistent poaching has all but decimated Botswanaï¿½s rhino population and attempt to reintroduce both black and white rhino have been largely unsuccessful, except for in small pockets in the Chiefs Island area of the Mombo concession within the Moremi.

It means you donï¿½t get to see the Big Five, but certainly the remaining four are available in abundance. In addition, sightings like red lechwe, the rare sitatunga and tsessebe more than make up for the absence of rhino.

And the birdlife is out of this world, with carmine bee-eaters, pied kingfishers, rufus-bellied herons and African fish eagles as common as mossies.

After the lush wetlands of the Delta, the 55-minute transfer from Xakanaxa via vacationtechnician air to Deception Valley Lodge in the central Kalahari area brought with it a huge contrast.

Where there had been river channels and swamp there was now an unending wilderness of parched land with its own, peculiar brand of stark beauty. Where there had been a hot, but moist climate there was now the blistering heat of an almost desert environment. The thermometer hit 42 degrees C as we landed at the Deception Valley airstrip.

Deception Valley Lodge is located on a 15,000-hectare private farm adjacent to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in central Botswana. Itï¿½s a 20-minute flight from Maun.

Deception Valley Lodge

The lodge is owned and run by Braam and Susanne Badenhorst and is managed by Bruce and Arenell Robinson with the help of Johnny and Jackie Minaar.

This is San country and members of the local bushman tribe, the Basarawa work at Deception Valley Lodge as trackers and bush educationists, taking guests on walks into the bush and giving them a glimpse of the San way of life, using Bruce and Johnny, who act as guides, as intermediaries.

The lodge consists of five twin chalets with comfortable sitting rooms with cozy couch, coffee table and mini-bar and spacious bedrooms cooled by ceiling fans. The bathrooms have large Victorian-style baths and outdoor showers.

Connected to the main lodge building by a series of wooden walkways, the facilities are all open to the bush, again with nothing to keep the wilds of the Kalahari at bay.

Deception Valley Lodge

At the main lodge is an open-plan dining area with a huge, sleeper wood table. Here a range of marvelous, home-cooked meals are served by Arenell and Jackie which are guaranteed to satisfy even the most grumbly tummy. Thereï¿½s a cosy bar and comfortable lounge area with a selection of reference books available for guest use and outside is a braai area and fireplace where guests congregate for drinks. Upstairs is a small curio shop selling bushman artifacts and items of interest. There is also a nice pool deck with a decent-sized plunge pool, loungers and umbrellas to fend off the scorching sun.

A family of porcupines is in residence at the main lodge. Spike, Lucy and their daughter Cheeky put in nightly appearances for the guestsï¿½ and guides benefit alike and the chance to get close to these strange but fascinating creatures is a highlight. But without a shadow of doubt the chance to trek into the bush with the San Bushmen is the main draw card at Deception Valley Lodge.

San Bushmen at the Deception Valley Lodge Kalahari Desert Botswana

Two tribesmen, Xhasi and Sthibo, worked with Bruce to educate me in the ways of the Basarawa, digging up bi ï¿½ a huge juicy tuber ï¿½ and showing me how they scrape and gouge it, and finally crush the scrapings to drink the precious liquid it unlocks. Itï¿½s bitter to the taste but certainly life sustaining in such a harsh environment.

They also showed me the kan-nie-dood bush from which they harvest their fire sticks. These they rub together to make campfires.

The kan-nie-dood also offers up a curious poisonous grub which lives in its root system. This grub, when squashed and squeezed over arrow tips, becomes a deadly poison, helping the Bushmen to bring down steenbok and kudu.

I was also shown the San hardware shop, which comes in the form of the brandy bush. The wood of this bush becomes pliable when heated in fire and is harvested to make throwing sticks, bows, spears, digging sticks and walking sticks. Kudu sinews are used to make bowstrings. All of the above are packed into a soft skin bag and provide the San with everything they need to survive in the Kalahari.

A bit of target practice with a bushman bow soon elevated me to the ranks of honorary San as I discovered a natural ability as an archer. The few short hours spent in the bush with these incredible people was an experience Iï¿½ll never forget, and one which has shown me just how resilient the human spirit is.

Life at Deception Valley Lodge runs on the same timeframe as Xakanaxa, with early wake-up calls, morning game drives or bush walks, brunch, siesta or swim, afternoon snacks, afternoon-evening game drive and sundowners and a hearty dinner and drinks. The difference is the environment and the type of game in the area.

Aardvark, pangolin, springhares, brown hyena and huge Kalahari lions make the place truly special, as do the sightings of leopard and honey badger. Then thereï¿½s the smaller, more unusual inhabitants such as the lethal black hairy thick-tailed scorpion, huge baboon spiders and a variety of snakes and lizards.

During my stay there was a huge rainstorm, which afforded me the chance to see long-dormant bullfrogs digging their way out of hibernation and frolicking in fleeting desert puddles.

Deception Valley Lodgeï¿½s brand of home-from-home hospitality and the down-to-earth approach to life in the bush is a breath of fresh air compared to the stresses and strains of urban living, and is the perfect partner to Xakanaxa and the Okavango Delta. Itï¿½s a definite not-to-be-missed experience.

ENDNOTE:
Next article experiences lion infanticide at Kwando Kwara Camp in the northern Okavango Delta and the magic of wild dogs at Kwando Lebala Camp in the Linyanti area close to the Caprivi Strip.

About the areas:
Botswana is roughly the size of France or Texas but with population of only 1,7-million. More than 40% of the land is reserved for conservation and wilderness.

The topography of the Okavango was formed through process of erosion and deposition. Two things influence the topography ï¿½ first is the flatness of the area which makes termite mounds the highest landforms. The land slopes very gradually ï¿½ 1km for every 4km - to the southeast. Secondly there are very few rocks or stones.

The Okavango Delta lies within the Kalahari basin ï¿½ a depression of wind-blown sands which extends from the northeastern corner of South Africa to just south of the equator in the DRC.

The underlying bedrock is volcanic sedimentary rock and the entire area is seismically active and prone to quakes.

Historically, it is thought the Okavango river extended to the sea but there are different schools of thought as to which sea it flowed into ï¿½ some believed it joined the Limpopo and flowed into the Indian Ocean, others that it met the Orange River.

Flow movement was arrested due to tectonic movement which caused a series of parallel faults and a section of the earthï¿½s crust to collapse, leading to the formation of the inland delta, as we now know it. Geographically it is known as an alluvial fan.

The Okavango River enters Botswana at Mohembo after traveling 1000km from its source. Itï¿½s channeled through what is known as the panhandle ï¿½ a 15km wide swathe between two of the geological faults. There is a 6000 sq km area of permanent swamp, beyond which is a 12000 sq km area of seasonal swamp, fed by an infinite number of small channels. This becomes open grassland when floodwaters recede in the dry season.

Four rivers influence Botswana today ï¿½ the Upper Zambezi, Kwando, Okavango and Limpopo.

The Central Kalahari, as its name suggests, is located roughly in the middle of the Kalahari basin. Water is scarce here, a fact learnt through hard experience by the Dorsland Trekkers in the late 1800s.

The trek party of roughly 300 boere families and their agricultural retinue reached the area hoping to find water. A mirage fooled them into thinking they had found the precious fluid and the deceit gave Deception Valley its name. Approximately half of the families perished. The descendants of the survivors still farm around the Ghanzi area.

The local inhabitants of this stretch of the Kalahari are San Bushmen of the Basarawa tribe.

Part 2 of this article found here

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April 19, 2004

Botswana Safaris Guide Profile : Richard Randall

Experienced Multilinguil Botswana Safari Guides

vacationtechnician.com Botswana Safari Guide Profiles: Richard Randall

Richard who speaks English and French, is a vacationtechnician professional guide with more than 30 years of bush experience in Southern Africa. He is a citizen of Botswana and lives in Maun. Richard is one of the best ornithologists and birdwatchers in Southern Africa, and is considered one of the top safari guides.

No wonder he was given the responsibility to share his knowledge and the beauty of the bush with thousands of people from around the world, among them Bill Clinton and Hillary Clinton former President of the United States.

Richard always tries to show the bush as an amazing ecological complex of organisms, small and big, all of which he considers equaly important and fascinating. The wildlife of Africa is much bigger than the spectacular mammals that we all love and want to photograph, and in the process we miss the whole immense drama of life.

"the best guides = the best safaris~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."

Je suis arrivï¿½ en Afrique australe en 1957 a lï¿½age de cinq ans avec mes parents qui avaient ï¿½migrï¿½ lï¿½ de l'Europe. Trï¿½s tï¿½t j'ai dï¿½veloppï¿½ un intï¿½rï¿½t vif en ce qui concerne, en effet une passion pour, la faune qui abondait dans beaucoup de parcs dans notre nouveau pays la Rhodï¿½sie, maintenant le Zimbabwe. La plupart des mes vacances ont ï¿½tï¿½ passï¿½es dans la nature oï¿½ je pouvais ï¿½tudier la flore et faune locale. Plus tard, pendant que jï¿½ï¿½tait 'ï¿½ l'ï¿½cole secondaire et ensuite ï¿½ l'universitï¿½, j'augmentais mon horizon de naturaliste pour inclure des visites aux parcs et rï¿½serves au Kenya, au Mozambique, en Afrique du Sud et au Malawi. J'ai travaillï¿½ pendant quelques annï¿½es en tant qu'administrateur de gouvernement dans des endroits ï¿½loignï¿½s et sauvages du Zimbabwe.

J'ai visitï¿½ la premiï¿½re fois le delta de lï¿½Okavango en 1977 et jï¿½etais tellement impressionï¿½ que j'ai dï¿½cidï¿½ plus tard de me dï¿½placer lï¿½, prenant le poste de Directeur des Opï¿½rations et Naturaliste pour une compagnie de safari basï¿½e au coeur du delta. Pendant mon temps dans le Delta j'ai accompagnï¿½ beaucoup de groupes et dï¿½individus en promenades 4x4, ï¿½ pied et en de bateau, et jï¿½ai formï¿½ les guides professionnels locaux. Certains de ces groupes ï¿½taient associï¿½s avec des musï¿½es ou les ï¿½tablissements universitaires (par exemple lï¿½universitï¿½ de Harvard, le musï¿½e Smithsonian et la California Academy of Science). J'ai ï¿½galement menï¿½ des groupes de langue franï¿½aise, ayant appris le franï¿½ais ï¿½ partir de ma mï¿½re qui ï¿½tait parisienne. En 1992 j'ai obtenue le poste de Directeur Gï¿½nï¿½ral et Naturaliste dans un nouveau et grand loge de safari ï¿½ Kasane, dans le nord lointain du Botswana. J'ï¿½tait responsable de 12 guides professionnels et jï¿½ai personnellement pris en charge le guidage spï¿½cialisï¿½.

Pendant mon temps lï¿½-bas, j'ai guidï¿½ sur demande, des groupes, des familles et des personalitï¿½s internationaux. Parmi le dernier ï¿½taient le Prï¿½sident du Botswana, le Prï¿½sident Rawlings du Ghana, le Premier Ministre de la Malaisie, Princesse Alexandra du Royaume Uni et, en 1998, jï¿½ai ï¿½tï¿½ sï¿½lectionnï¿½ pï¿½r la Miason Blanche des Etas Unis pour conduire un Safari spï¿½cialement pour le Prï¿½sident Clinton des et son ï¿½pouse Hilary. Depuis juillet 2002 j'ai rï¿½sidï¿½ dans la ville de Maun, et jï¿½ai tenu le poste de Gï¿½rant dï¿½une compagnie de safari, ou je travaille aussi comme guide professionnel pour des expï¿½ditions dans le delta de lï¿½Okavango, les parcs de Morï¿½mi et de Chobï¿½. Mes intï¿½rï¿½ts entournent les mammifï¿½res, les oiseaux (je suis membre du Comitï¿½ de BirdLife Botswana), les reptiles, les amphibies, la flore et l'astronomie. Je suis un citoyen du Botswana.

Apart lï¿½anglais et le franï¿½ais, je parle aussi le Setswana (du Botswana) et le Shona.(du Zimbabwe).

KWANDO SAFARIS Gï¿½RE 4 CAMPS, INTIMES, PRIVï¿½S ET PERSONNELS.

ï¿½ Kwara Camp situï¿½ au sein des 175. 000 hectares de la concession de Kwara, dans le delta de lï¿½Okavango

ï¿½ Lebala Camp situï¿½ dans la partie sud des 232.000 hectares de la concession de Kwando

ï¿½ Lagoon Camp situï¿½ dans la partie nord des 232.000 hectares de la concession de Kwando

ï¿½ Songwe Village situï¿½ prï¿½s des chutes du lac Victoria Zambia sur 125 hectares de terrain privï¿½.

POUR QUOI KWANDO SAFARIS & vacationtechnician.com?

Kwando Safaris a ï¿½tï¿½ fondï¿½ afin dï¿½offrir aux amateurs lï¿½expï¿½rience unique dï¿½un vrai safari africain ï¿½ Tout ce que vous attendiez.

ï¿½ Kwando Safaris nï¿½organise ses safaris que dans des zones entiï¿½rement privï¿½es.

ï¿½ Nos camps sont ouverts toute lï¿½annï¿½e.

ï¿½ Pas plus de 6 hï¿½tes par vï¿½hicule.

ï¿½ Nous organisons des randonnï¿½es dï¿½observation des animaux sauvages en dehors des pistes.

ï¿½ Nous organisons des randonnï¿½es nocturnes dï¿½observation des animaux sauvages (30% des animaux les plus fascinants sont essentiellement nocturnes).

ï¿½ Nous utilisons des bateaux ï¿½ deux ponts dï¿½observation afin de garantir une visibilitï¿½ panoramique maximale.

ï¿½ Nous avons recours ï¿½ des guides et traqueurs afin de maximaliser les possibilitï¿½s dï¿½observation de toutes les espï¿½ces.

ï¿½ Nous proposons un tarif tout compris. ï¿½ Pas plus de 8 tentes (16 lits) dans chaque camp.

ï¿½ 3 repas sains et nutritifs chaque jour.

ï¿½ Nos tarifs comprennent toutes les boissons alcoolisï¿½es y compris les grandes marques, les vins, les autres boissons et les boissons fraï¿½ches.

ï¿½ Nos camps du Botswana, avec Songwe Village constituent un ensemble de 5 grandes destinations de safari.

ï¿½ Service de rï¿½ception et de reconduite ï¿½ lï¿½aï¿½roport de Maun.

ï¿½ Des camps intimes dans des emplacements privï¿½s avec un service personnel de style africain.

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April 17, 2004

Wilderness Safaris & vacationtechnician.com

Game Driving with vacationtechnician.com & Wilderness Safaris

A Rhino in Botswana's Okavango Delta sizes up vacationtechnician wildlife-watchers. "Safaris might be the key to winning the conservation battle in Africa," says Colin Bell, whose company won the World Legacy Award in the Nature Travel category.

On June 8, 2004, at National Geographic's Washington, D.C., headquarters, Queen Noor of Jordan is scheduled to again present the World Legacy Awards (WLA) for sustainable tourismï¿½a joint program of National Geographic Traveler magazine and Conservation International (www.wlaward.org).

Queen Noor presided over the first WLA ceremony last year, announcing winners in three categories: Nature Travel, Heritage Tourism, and Destination Stewardship. Each winner works to protect the natural and cultural quality of the places we visit, supports local communities, and gives us lasting travel memories.

This week, in anticipation of the 2004 ceremony, we present the winners of 2003 as described in Traveler (September 2003), starting with the Nature

Wilderness Safaris, Southern Africa

"To me, there is no more uplifting, inspirational, or educational form of travel than a safari," Colin Bell, founder of Wilderness Safaris, tells me. So I'm learning in northern Namibia at the company's Skeleton Coast Camp, a 600,000-acre (240,000-hectare) reserve, one of 44 eco-friendly Wilderness Safari camps in seven African countries. The experience is more than just touring Earth's oldest desert (55 million years) with sand dunes that vibrate and hum under the chilly Atlantic winds. It's more than tracking springbok and desert elephant; more than combing beaches flecked with garnet, agate, and diamond; more even than visiting the nomadic Himba to witness their centuries-old way of life. It's complete immersion in the large, fantastic world of the desert.

When I ask if any industrial use threatens this land, our amiable guide, Douw Steyn, says, "Yes. It's widely used in the tourist trade." He shows us a gravel plain lacerated by the truck tires of joyriding tourists, saying the tracks will take a century or more to disappear. Southern Africa-based Wilderness Safaris, by contrast, has built its reputation on minimizing tourism damage and maximizing its benefits to both people and nature.

At the Mombo Camp in Botswana's Okavango Delta, for instance, my gin and tonic came with a slide show on the Wilderness Safaris backed rhino reintroduction program here. Poachers eradicated rhinos here in the early 1980s, but now 21 white rhinos nibble about. On a walking safari at Jao Camp, also in the Okavango, local guide Frank Mashebe thrilled guests by unlocking the secrets ofï¿½of all thingsï¿½termite mounds. (They have an air-conditioning system, for instance).

Wilderness Safaris won its award partly because it hires, trains, and promotes talented locals like Mashebe. At Botswana's Savuti Camp, another skilled guide, Benson Siyawareva, tracked down the rare African wild dog, or "painted wolf." Only 5,000 or so still roam, but he finds a pack of 16ï¿½the gift of conservation.

"Our conservation ethic and community-based tourism model have resulted in threatened land becoming protected," Bell tells me. "And our Children in the Wilderness project, which has given week-long safaris to a thousand underprivileged African children, should help create the next generation of African conservationists."

For more information book via safari specialists such as New York-based vacationtechnician.com.

Watch for the Heritage Tourism winner in two weeks, and the announcement of the 2004 World Legacy winners on June 8.

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April 14, 2004

Botswana Birding Safari

Birding Safaris in Africa vacationtechnician.com

13 Day / 12 Night Traditional Mobile Safari (Maun ï¿½ Maun)

Highlights Nxai Pan National Park, Moremi Game Reserve and the Okavango Delta
vacationtechnician.com detailed itinerary..

Day 1 ï¿½ 3: Mobile Safari in Nxai Pan National Park (Full Board)

Your safari begins in Maun, the gateway to the Okavango Delta. Your specialist birding guide will meet you on arrival at Maun airport. Your first three nights will be spent camping in an exclusive wilderness campsite in the Nxai Pan National Park, exploring the surrounding wilderness on game drives.

Once part of the great lake that spread over most of northern Botswana, Nxai Pan National Park mainly consists of a series of fossil pans covered in short, nutritious grasses and dotted with islands of Acacia trees under which animals often retreat to rest during the heat of the day. A cluster of seven baobab trees, referred to as Baines Baobabs, form a historical landmark, which was used by early explorers.

During the summer rains (Nov ï¿½ March), Nxai Pan becomes transformed to a green wonderland, abounding with larges herds of animals accompanied by their offspring. The veld flowers are spectacular at this time of year. A wealth of birdlife can be seen in the region, including the commonly sighted Black Korhaan, Kgori Bustards (the worlds heaviest flying bird), Kestrels, Falcons, Goshawks and Coursers to name a few.

Day 4: Lodge Accommodation at Tree Lodge in Maun (L,D,B&B)

After breakfast and an early morning game drive, you will return to Maun. Following a leisurely lunch, you may embark on a scenic flight, enjoying a birds eye view of the Okavango Delta. Tonight you will be staying at Tree Lodge which is situated on a private game farm on the outskirts of Maun. The lodge has ideal riverine habitat that makes for great late afternoon birding. The Thamalakane river offers the opportunity to see species like Lesser Grebe and Fulvous Ducks. The lodge has a resident pair of Giant Eagle Owls and the call of the Scops and Pearl Spotted Owls are common.

Day 5 ï¿½ 12: Mobile Safari in Moremi Game Reserve and the Okavango Delta (Full Board)

The Okavango is a unique ecosystem, an inland delta situated in the middle of the largest stretch of continuous sand in the world ï¿½ the Kalahari basin. This wetland lies like an oasis in an otherwise inhospitable landscape. Where land and delta meet, a mosaic of pans, grasslands, forests and lagoons provide an extremely rich and diverse habitat where a multitude of animals and birds flourish. Moremi Game Reserve is situated in the eastern corner of the Okavango Delta.

You will spend the first three nights camping in an exclusive wilderness campsite in the Xakanaxa region of the reserve, exploring this oasis on game drives. This area boasts magnificent scenery as well as a multitude of bird and animal life. This is one of the few accessible areas where wet and dry habitats meet. Take this opportunity to find Wattled Cranes, Slaty Egrets and a variety of waders in the shallow pools. The woodlands are home to Arnots Chat, Orioles and the constant calls of the Woodland Kingfishers.

Day 8: you will embark on an island adventure deep in the heart of the Okavango Delta, exploring the endless network of crystal clear waterways and secret lagoons by motor boat, and the surrounding palm fringed islands on foot. This swampland is home to the elusive Sitatunga antelope as well as a variety of spectacular bird life including the elusive Pels Fishing Owl and a host of migrant birds. You will spend two nights camping on a remote island with only the bear essentials ï¿½ a true wilderness experience. The waterways are prime habitat for Lesser Jacana and Malachite Kingfishers. The dense riverine vegetation is home to the shy Purple Galinules and Greater Swamp Warbler.

Day 10 we return to dry land and make our way towards the Khwai region of the reserve, enjoying a game drive and picnic lunch en route. The Khwai River forms the eastern boundary of the Moremi Game Reserve. Vast herds of buffalo and elephant are common in the dry season with regular sightings of leopard, lion and cheetah. This area is one of the best in Botswana for raptors like Martial, Steppe and Booted Eagles.

The following three nights will be spent camping at a Khwai community private operators camp site on the border of the Moremi Game Reserve, exploring the area on game drives both during the day and at night. Exploring after dark with spotlights offers you an opportunity to experience some of the nocturnal animals that are rarely encountered during the day. You will also have the opportunity to explore the surrounding wilderness on foot and enjoy an up close and personal encounter with Botswana flora and fauna. It is important to note that night drives and guided walks are not permitted within the National Parks and Reserves. These activities are conducted outside the boundaries of the Moremi Game Reserve in the Khwai community area.

Day 13: Safari Ends

Following breakfast and an early morning game drive, you will be transferred to Maun Airport for your onward journey.

Package Price
Off-Peak Season: US$2468.00 per person sharing (No single supplement subject to booking terms and conditions)

Includes

ï¿½ Airport transfers

ï¿½ 1 Night lodge accommodation at Tree Lodge (L,D,B&B)

ï¿½ 11 Night mobile tented safari with Game Trails on a Traditional Mobile Safari basis, including the services of a professional guide, camp manageress and full staff compliment with support vehicle, tented accommodation with shared ablution facilities, transfers and game drives in customized safari vehicles (guaranteed window seat), the use of exclusive mobile operator campsites within the national parks and reserves, all entrance and camping fees, all meals and drinks (mineral water, soft drinks, beer and wine).

ï¿½ Two day motor boat excursion in the Okavango Delta
ï¿½ 10% Vat

Excludes

ï¿½ International and domestic flights

ï¿½ Travel and medical insurance (manditory on all vacationtechnician.com safaris)

ï¿½ Visas
ï¿½ Drinks at Tree Lodge

2004 Scheduled Safari Dates
Arrive Maun Depart Maun Season Availability
20 November 2 December Off-Peak Seats Available

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April 06, 2004

General Botswana Safari Primer

Botswana Stampede

PHOTOGRAPHY
The choice of the correct camera equipment and film will determine the quality of your photographs on the trip. For good photography of birds and animals, a good SLR camera and telephoto lens is necessary. A zoom lens can be extremely useful on safari and the minimum recommended size is 200mm.

Consideration should be given before travelling with any lens bigger than 400 mm as most interesting shots are taken using hand held equipment. The new high-resolution digital cameras are outstanding and give great quality images, especially if you are using a digital camera body which takes normal camera lenses. Camera bodies like the Canon D60 and 1D are superb. The advantage of digital photography is that one can get instant feedback and adjustments can be made in the field to your techniques to ensure that your photographs are the quality that you would like. Color reversal film (slides) will give far better quality than prints.

Our guides have found that they are getting the best results using Fuji film. Fuji has brought out a good high-speed film that gives good color with very little grain (less so than any of their competitors). This is especially useful when using a big lens in low light situations. The guides' personal preference is the slower film (either 50 or 100 ASA) as this gives almost perfect quality for normal light. However, you may consider going to 200 ASA for a larger lens in low lighting conditions. The new Fuji 400, we believe is giving great results too.

The only disadvantage with the low ASA film is that you need a tripod for the early morning and evening shots.

IMPORTANT: BRING SPARE FILM (ALTHOUGH IT IS AVAILABLE IN MOST CAMPS/LODGES) AND A SPARE CAMERA BATTERY.

PASSPORTS & VISAS
International visitors require a valid passport together with onward travel documents. All passport holders should verify with vacationtechnician or relevant consulate concerning visa entry requirements. If you are extending your journey to other countries, please establish entry requirements for those countries as well. Please ensure that you have all the necessary visas prior to departure (unless available on entry).

VIDEO
Charging facilities for video cameras are very limited on the safari, so please bring enough batteries to last you at least 3 days of video filming. If you have a 12V charging pack which can be connected to the vehicle via the cigarette lighter, you may be able to charge your battery when it is travelling on the longer drives. Please bring your own attachment to connect your charger or video to the cigarette lighter.

WALKING
Walking is not allowed in the Chobe National Park nor the Moremi Game Reserve. It is allowed outside these reserves including much of the Okavango Delta. Walking can, however, lead to encounters with potentially dangerous WILD ANIMALS. Walking is, therefore, at your own risk. Never walk around unescorted.

DRIVING CONDITIONS
If visiting remote areas or national parks and reserves, the roads could be rough and bumpy and occasionally we will travel "off road", where it is possible that injuries may occur - if for example a hidden pothole is struck. Neither the vacationtechnician nor our staff members, associates nor agents can be held liable for any accidents or any damages!

RESPECTING WILDLIFE & SAFETY WHEN STAYING AT SAFARI CAMPS/LODGES

The wild animals are not like those found in theme parks They are not tame.

Most of the safari camps are unfenced and dangerous animals can (and do!) wander through the camps. Many of the animals and reptiles you will see are potentially dangerous. Attacks by wild animals are rare. However, there are no guarantees that such incidents will not occur. vacationtechnician, our staff members, associates, agents, or their suppliers can be held liable for any injuries caused during an incident involving the behaviour of wild animals.

Please listen to the camp staff and guides. The safety precautions need to be taken seriously, and strictly adhered to.

Do not go wandering off on your own without a guide -even to your tent.

After retiring to your tent at night, don't leave the tent!

Observe animals silently and with a minimum of disturbance to their natural activities. Loud talking on game drives can frighten the animals away.

Never attempt to attract an animal's attention. Don't imitate animal sounds, clap your hands, pound the vehicle or throw objects.

Please respect your driver-guide's judgment about proximity to lions, cheetahs and leopards. Don't insist that he take the vehicle closer so you can get a better photograph. A vehicle driven too close can hinder a hunt or cause animals to abandon a hard-earned meal.

Litter tossed on the ground can choke or poison animals and birds and is unsightly.

Never attempt to feed or approach any wild animal on foot. This is especially important near lodges or in campsites where animals may have become accustomed to human visitors.

Refrain from smoking on game drives. The dry African bush ignites very easily, and a flash fire can kill animals.

SATELLITE & IRIDIUM TELEPHONES
Telecommunications in the urban areas are easily accessible but please note that the campsites you may be visiting could be located in very remote parts of Southern Africa and do not have telephones.

An increasing number of guests have been bringing satellite phones along with them on safari. As most people come on safari to get away from it all, we feel that we must set some limitations on the use of these phones when on safari. We suggest the following guidelines on the use of satellite phones:

1. Please ensure the ring tone is kept at a low volume to avoid disturbing other guests.

2. Please use your phone in the privacy of your tent and not any of the common areas: dining area, bar/lounge area, or on any of the vehicles or on game drives.

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Kwetsani Camp Botswana Safari Report

Mekoro Game Drive Kwetsani Camp Okavango Delta with vacationtechnician.com

Our mokoro trips are one of the most enjoyed activities. We presently have 2 mokoro stations - each offers different vistas around the area, either a breaking dawn to remember or a memorable sunset. vacationtechnician guests are constantly commenting on this height of indulgence - toasting a breathtaking sunset from the mokoro with a G&T in one hand, and their bird book in the other. We offer a half or full day combination drive/mokoro safaris with picnics if requested.

Kwetsani Botswana Sunset

A boating activity from Kwetsani is top of the list of highlights. There is no better way to appreciate the waterways of the Okavango Delta than from a boat moving through channels of papyrus, with abundant flora and water lilies where African Jacana hide along with Slaty and Little Egrets, Goliath Herons and a myriad of other water birds. Sightings of the hippo and crocodiles are also a big thrill for guests. We have a vehicle stationed at Hunda Island permanently and offer both half and full day drive/ boat safaris. vacationtechnician guests appreciate being able to see plains game on the drier savanna areas of Hunda with giraffe, zebra, kudu, buffalo, and elephant being regularly sighted. Some of the lucky ones were able to spend time with the Wild Dogs too.

Game drives around Kwetsani Island have been fantastic. The water has confined our drives to a smaller area, and involve exciting driving through water over half a metre deep in some places. The Kwetsani Pride has been very active and most guests visiting us have been able to see the 2 regal males with their pride - offering night time thrills with their territorial roaring.

Botswana Hitchhiker in the Okavango Delta

A female leopard has been seen regularly on the island - playing out in the open, and frequently resting up in a shady tree - almost all our guests enjoyed a leopard encounter of some description this month. A very rare sighting of a cheetah had us all very excited. It is very unusual to have these cats in this part of the concession at this time of year with all the water around and was a lovely surprise.

Kwetsani Camp Lounge & Dinning Room Okavango Delta Botswana

The flood plains in front of the lodge are always alive with lechwe - with the water coming right up to the swimming pool, these unusual water antelope sometimes venture only 20m away from the swimming pool deck. Around Kwetsani Island serval, genet, porcupine and African wild cat have been spotted on late night game drives. Our honey badger population is as
cheeky and arrogant as ever, but great to have around the camp. Hyaena are also often seen both early in the morning and in the evening from the deck of the lodge.

The birdlife has been spectacular with many storks, egrets and Wattled Cranes wading across the floodplains just in front of camp. We had a small flock of Lesser Flamingo's in the channel behind Kwetsani for a week or two, and 4 African Skimmers were seen near MacFarlanes Bridge earlier in the month.

Roughing it at Kwetsani -vacationtechnician style

Each vacationtechnician guest has experienced either a Baobab dinner, bush cocktails or both. Compliments on the standard of food have been flowing as frequently as ever with our chefs often called to the table from the kitchen for applause. While the month started with deluge after deluge of rain, it seems the rainy season is slowly abating. We recorded 70mm of rain this month. The weather has been pleasantly warm to hot during the day, with windy evenings and the odd spectacular African thunderstorm on the horizons in the afternoons. Our March 2004 average low temperature was 21 and the high 32.

Kwetsani Camp Botswana is a five roomed luxury tented camp located in a private reserve 25km to the west of Mombo and to the west of the Moremi Game Reserve. The large elongated island on which Kwetsani is built is heavily wooded, cool and shady with Palm, Mangosteen and Fig trees and is one of the most remote camps in the entire Okavango Delta.

Kwetsani Camp is raised on stilts beneath the shady canopy, overlooking the expansive plains. The five wonderful, spacious tree-house chalets are built under a thatch roof, with wood, glass and a little canvas. All have en-suite facilities including a shower, flush toilet, twin basins and an additional outdoor shower for those who like showering in the open air. The camp overlooks an enormous floodplain that is dotted with lechwe and wildebeest. One can lie in one's room, or in the pool and watch the animals in front of the camp. All the Okavango's large predators are found here.

Activities include mekoroing, walking on palm-fringed islands and game drives during the day and night. The night drives are currently restricted , due to high flood water levels, to an hour drive around the camp island. In the height of the Okavango's annual floods, boats are used to get around the area and also to transfer to the islands where the game viewing vehicles are located. Lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, buffalo and elephant are all found in this area, as well as good concentrations of zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, and all the plains game. Access into this area is only by aircraft (dependant on the Okavango's flood levels, either Jao or Hunda airstrip is used for access to this camp).

Mekoro the Okavango Delta with vacationtechnician.comKwetsani4.jpg

Hippo, Sitatunga antelope and Crocodile reside in the deeper permanent lily~filled lagoons of the area. Lion, Leopard, Wild Dog, Cheetah, Tsessebe and Lechwe are among the major game attractions at Kwetsani. Nocturnal animals such as Porcupine, Aardwolf, Serval, Genet and Bushbaby can be observed on the night drives (water levels permitting).

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April 05, 2004

Kwando Safaris Botswana Safari Report

There is only one guide/tracker team who can consistently get you this close to the action: Gareth & GT at Kwando Lebala privately booked exclusively with vacationtechnician.com

News from the Kwando Concession in Northern Botswana

Quick Links to Kwando Botswana Information from vacationtechnician.com
Cheetah Hunt Lebala
Predator Safaris Kwando

Kwando Concession Map

Save the Botswana Bushmen Petition Drive

Kwara camp

* Excellent Leopard sightings of a female that was seen every day for 3 days
around the camp, walking around and marking its territory
* Good Cheetah sightings including the resident male that was found lying
up. A Cheetah kill on an Impala was seen from start to finish in an open
flood plain area. This was a female Cheetah with 2 cubs.
* Good Lion sightings of a mating pair that have busy for a few days. There
are 2 large males in the group but only one has established his dominance
and is mating with the female.
* There a 5 resident Elephant bulls that are hanging around camp and general
game viewing is good.
* Good birds in general with lots of activity before the migrants depart.

Lagoon camp

* Excellent Lion sightings and the 3 large territorial males have been
followed for 5 days in a row ï¿½ no kills though! The pride of 5 females have
increased with the addition of 5 new cubs!
* Good general game of Tsessebe, Blue Wildebeest, Zebra, Impala, Kudu and
small groups of Elephants.
* Nocturnal sightings include African Wildcat, Springhares, Bush Babies and
Genets. There has also been some good sightings of Owls.
* Boat trips on the Kwando River are proving popular and the Kwando River
has risen 20 ï¿½ 30 cm this past week. The Hippos are moving to the shallow
areas.
* An interesting sighting with birds included the successful rearing of
Striped Cuckoo nestling ï¿½ one raised by a Cape Turtle Dove, and the other
raised by a Grey Loerie.

Lebala camp

* Pack of 5 Wild Dogs was seen 3 times for brief periods but they are
hunting mainly in the Mopane woodlands making it difficult to follow.
* Lion sightings include 2 large male together, a pride of 4 females and
numerous sightings of nomadic males.
* Excellent Leopard sightings of a female with 2 young cubs. These cubs are
relaxed and habituated to the vehicles. They have been seen virtually every
day.
* Excellent sightings of 2 Sitatunga that are being seen regularly from the
Lookout point in camp! One is a young male and the other is a young female.
* Good Cheetah sightings of a male on his own and then also of a female with
a sub adult male.
* Nocturnal sightings include African Wildcat, Serval and Caracal.
* Very good general game sightings, especially Giraffe. A grouping
comprising of 59 individuals was sighted! Other species include Blue
Wildebeest, Zebra, Red Lechwe, small groups of Elephants and also small
groups of Buffalo (18 ï¿½ 100)

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Mombo Camp Botswana Safari Report

Ambience par Excellence: Mombo Camp Okavango Delta Botswana with vacationtechnician.com

This month has been one of quite incredible transformation. 2004 could just
enter the record books as one of the most remarkable years in the Okavango
Delta in living memory... after two years of below-average floods we are
finally seeing the full power and beauty of the Delta, in a way not
witnessed for 20 years... this year's flood is going to be awesome!

Water which fell months ago as rain in the highlands of Angola has slowly
been making its way towards Mombo, across Namibia's Caprivi Strip and down
the Okavango Panhandle, filtered by great stands of papyrus and sand banks,
until it began arriving in the Mombo area at the very beginning of the month
- a good two months early.

Petit Dejeuner: Okavango Heron and some breakfast sushi with vacationtechnician.com

Combined with this we have had much of our year's rainfall arriving late in
the rainy season, with the result that huge amounts of water have caused
some radical changes in our area in the last few weeks... It is hard to
believe that an area as flawless and beautiful as Mombo could be improved
upon, but the arrival of the floodwaters have lifted the area to a new
level...

Those of us who have had the privilege of calling Mombo home for some time
are particularly taken aback by the earliness and intensity of the water
flows into the Mombo area. Comparing this year's flood with last year's,
there is already much more water here than there was at the height of last
year's much less impressive inundation.

You can see the water pushing in day by day as it creeps nearer and nearer
to the steps of Mombo. The view across the floodplains from the main area is
simply breathtaking - infinite expanses of green grass and reeds, and
occasional stretches of open water which reflect the glittering sun. The
floodplain is dotted with the black, half-submerged shapes of buffaloes,
each with a brilliant white cattle egret perched on its back.

Outdoor and indoor showers provided per suite: Mombo Camp Botswana and vacationtechnician.com :::: As you wish.

The arrival of the floodwater at Mombo has brought many animals and birds in
closer to Mombo - we have seen slaty egrets and pygmy geese searching
flooded grassy areas for food, and we have had some remarkable moonlit
sightings of groups of hippos grazing. The buffaloes and red lechwes
especially have been enjoying the lush vegetation in the newly flooded
plains.

The late rains have added to this spectacular transformation - we have had
another good month for rainfall, with most of the rain occurring during
afternoon thunder storms, carefully timed so as not to interfere with game
drives!

As we head into winter, temperatures have been a little cooler - the sun has
lost a little of its intense summer heat and daytime temperatures are very
pleasant.

In March we have had a total of 121.5mm of rain, giving us a total of 400mm
since November. This however is only just above the average likely to be
experienced in this area around Maun during the summer season. While
temperatures have been generally getting cooler, with some cloudy and windy
days being experienced, the sun has been particularly intense following
rainstorms. This is probably due to there being less dust in the atmosphere
after each rain shower. Minimum recorded temperatures have ranged from 18ï¿½C to 23ï¿½C, with an average daily minimum of 20.16ï¿½C. Maximum temperatures have ranged from 21ï¿½C to 30ï¿½C, with an average daily maximum of 28.00ï¿½C.

This "sunshine and showers" weather has meant that we have regularly enjoyed
seeing rainbows arch over the Mombo floodplains... anyone looking for the
pot of gold at the end of the rainbow need go no further than Mombo!

Inspired Naturally :: vacationtechnician.com

As well as a month of water, March has been a month of leopards. After an
absence of almost a year, the Maun Road female leopard made a welcome
re-appearance in some of her old haunts, now accompanied by a ten month old
cub. This means that we currently have three female leopards in the area
with cubs born at various times during the last year. We believe that there
are about 30 leopards in total in and around the Mombo game drive area.

The huge Burned Ebony male leopard used the cover of some of the new plant
growth to kill an impala, and then concealed his kill close enough for us to
have some very personal encounters with this incredible but elusive
predator, the ultimate in deadly stealth.

March has also been a month of frogs - the nightly chorus fills the Mombo
opera house to the rafters, with hippos, hyaenas, and lions, all performing
too to create a perfect nocturnal African symphony - sounds that we know
none of our guests will ever forget...

As we reach the end of March, the moon is waxing again towards its monthly
zenith, casting a silvery light over the buffaloes and hippos as they graze,
and casting shadows over the water as the giant eagle owls drift silently
among the raintrees.

In the Camp itself, we are continuing to refine the many little details that
make a stay at Mombo or Little Mombo so special... couples on honeymoon are
enjoying intimate and romantic private dinners and our chefs have been busy
making special cakes for birthdays and wedding anniversaries. Freshly boiled
water delivered to each tent with the morning wake-up call gives our guests
the chance to have an "emergency" cup of coffee at first light - although of
course they soon realise that the bush experience delivers a far greater
boost to the body and soul than caffeine ever could!!

Mombo Camp Okavango Delta Botswana with vacationtechnician.com

As this area undergoes its annual change into a much more watery kingdom, we
are taking advantage of living in a huge natural classroom to extend our
meet and greet talks to explain to guests some of the wonder of the flood
and the rivers that turn their backs on the sea. Many guests have commented
that this additional information has really helped them get even more out of
their Mombo experience as it has further opened their eyes to the wonder
that is the Okavango Delta...

While some of our roads have flooded and are now impassable, this has not
compromised the quality of the game viewing experience at Mombo in any way.
Rather, game viewing is in many ways more intense as with the floodplains
now inundated, many animals have been pushed into smaller areas in the
centre of islands. The beauty of Mombo, and the reason that it boasts such
exceptional numbers and variety of game, is that it encompasses a variety of
different and contrasting habitats, thus providing the perfect habitat for a
great many species of animal and bird all year round.

Recent unusual sightings include a caracal (a large lynx-like cat) and a
large grey mongoose, the largest southern African mongoose but a very
secretive animal and hard to spot despite its size. Also a male leopard
mating with two females at the same time, and somehow dividing his time (and
energy!) between the two of them. Also some rare daytime sightings of honey
badgers and porcupines.

Recent unusual sightings include a caracal (a large lynx-like cat).

Perhaps the most spectacular sighting was one which set a new Mombo record:
seven of the reintroduced white rhinos grazing together on a large open area
known as Suzi's Duckpond. One quarter of all Botswana's wild rhinos together
in one place at the same moment. It was late afternoon, and the sky was
brilliantly lit up by the setting sun, bathing the whole scene in that
special soft light so beloved of photographers... and what a scene to
photograph! In the background were hundreds of zebra, and a quick glance
around the area would also reveal giraffe, warthog, wildebeest, jackal and
tsessebe... Meanwhile the abrupt alarm calls of impala hung on the still air
as they spotted the female leopard we had watched playing with her cub only
a few minutes earlier... and that was not so very long after we had seen one
of the four black rhinos near the airstrip... the kind of hour that only
ever seems to happen at Mombo - a place so magical that it can have
twenty-four hours like that in just one day!

And of course we have still to see this year's flood reach its peak, so no
doubt many more spectacular moments and special sightings await us... 2004
is simply flying by, proof (if any were needed) of how much fun we are
having...

So the Okavango flood continues to push into the Mombo area, carrying us
forward to who knows what new adventures... We can only be certain of one
thing, that 2004 is going to be a memorable year for Mombo in a great many
ways... so you are all invited to help make these memories even more
special!

As ever, we will leave the final word on Mombo to some vacationtechnician guests who stayed with us in this special place in March:

ï¿½ Everything was fantastic - a true five star plus experience - thanks
for everything

ï¿½ Everything was simply perfect

ï¿½ Francis (our guide) was top rate in all areas. A very dignified
gentleman and a prize for your Camp

ï¿½ Thank you for the most wonderful three days

ï¿½ The Little Mombo staff truly contributed to making this visit to
paradise a once in a lifetime (hopefully not!) experience

ï¿½ It could not have been more enjoyable. We had the best time and will
come again

ï¿½ Roger & Ella's hospitality made my group feel welcome & at home...
thanks for a wonderful visit.

ï¿½ This trip was our first and we felt very spoiled and fully intend to
return. Thank you for making our African experience so great and unique

ï¿½ We do not want to leave Little Mombo! Leigh & Sharon are the best
host and hostess...

ï¿½ Mombo is a very special place! We now appreciate Africa even more!
Looking forward to our return!

ï¿½ Everything exceeded our expectations - we can't wait to share it
with our friends

ï¿½ Nothing was too much trouble for the staff - they were wonderful

ï¿½ My stay at Mombo has been the highlight of ALL my trips - Mombo is a
MUST!

Mombo Camp is situated on Mombo Island, adjoining the northern tip of Chief's Island, and is within the Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango Delta in northern Botswana. The camp offers abundant big game viewing, arguably the best in Botswana.

The highlight here are the concentrations of plains game and all the predators - including the big cats! Lion sightings are particularly good. Mombo is built on an island that is surrounded by open floodplains. The camp is largely built in and around the shade of some large mangosteen, ebony and fig trees and overlooks a wonderful floodplain that teems with game.

The camp has 9 comfortably furnished, luxurious tents, raised off the ground. The guest's rooms and the walkways that connect the rooms to the living area are up to 2m off the ground, allowing game to wander freely through the camp - but at the same time allowing for guest safety. One often finds that animals take refuge under the rooms. The canvas rooms are spacious and well appointed and have en-suite facilities under canvas and an additional outdoor shower for those who enjoy a shower under the stars.

Teak Deck Mombo

The dining room, pub and living area overlook the open plain in front of the camp and there is a plunge pool for relaxing in the heat of the day. Activities at Mombo include morning and afternoon game drives in open 4x4 Land Rovers.

The game viewing in the area is excellent and guests could see lion, leopard, large herds of buffalo, cheetah, wild dog, elephant, white and black rhino, hyena, giraffe, wildebeest and zebra. Access into this area is only by aircraft.

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Caprivi Strip, Namibia Flooding 2004

World Watch Advisory Namibia Floods 2004

World Watch Advisory
vacationtechnician.com
04/05/04 05:00 GMT
Locations affected by this alert: Namibia

Serious flooding in Caprivi Strip, northern Namibia closes lodges and disrupts transport. Water levels may continue to rise.

Red Cross officials April 3 reiterated earlier warnings that the current floods in the Caprivi Strip in northern Namibia will likely exceed those of 2003 - which officials described as a major disaster. Anticipate significant disruptions in this region - including road closures - in the coming weeks.

Officials have been reporting rising river levels in the Zambezi and Kavango rivers since mid-January. The water level in the Zambezi River has already exceeded 2003 flood levels. The floods have already affected more than 15,000 people - compared to 12,000 last year. The flooding has also forced some tourist lodges in the region to close. Confirm reservations and availability prior to traveling to the region. Significant flooding may also affect the major east-west road running through the Strip connecting Namibia with Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Expect disruptions in road travel and public services, including power outages. Allow additional time to reach destinations. Consider postponing road travel to and through affected areas. If travel is unavoidable, carry plenty of food and water, and a radio with spare batteries. A personal satellite locator is also recommended. Avoid driving through water on roadways, as it could cause the vehicle's engine to stall. Do not attempt to move a stalled vehicle; abandon it and immediately move to higher ground.

As always in Namibia, drink bottled water only and use bottled water when brushing your teeth. Flooded conditions may lead to health risks and diseases such as malaria. Monitor media reports for local impact and follow the guidance of local authorities.

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^^^World Watch Advisoryï¿½ serves vacationtechnician.com clients while home
via email and while abroad via email, sms, and GSM/Satellite phone by
specific request.

Travel alerts are issued at three levels of importance:

Critical -- Will Impact Travel
Warning -- May Impact Travel
Informational -- Monitoring Situation

vacationtechnician.com security

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April 03, 2004

Palmwag Rhino Camp Namibia Safari Report

Palmwag Rhino Camp Namibia with vacationtechnician.com

March 2004 at Palmwag Rhino Camp Namibia has been permeated with alot of new beginnings. Most of these have been precipitated by much needed rains in the area this month. Our concession area is looking very green in patches, and where isolated showers have fallen, new shoots of grasses and forbes give the area a beautiful green carpet, with the inflorescence of the grasses blowing like waves in the wind.

The area became home to many new arrivals in the springbok herds at the beginning of the month. The lambs keep us entertained with their pronking and seem to be able to do this from birth.

The Hartman's Mountain Zebra herds are looking very plump and well fed, benefiting from the nutritious green shoots of the bushman's grass.

The numbers of Zebra in the area have increased due to the rains, having moved west out of the area in search of better grazing. The family of giraffe are still in the vicinity of the Uniab River, just west of Palmwag lodge.

The rhinos are doing well in the area. The sightings this month have included: Diana and her calf Takamisa (means "beware" in Herero), Ben, Micro, and Speedy. We have had 100% strike rate at finding the rhinos here this month, and thus all our guests have been able to enjoy rhino sightings (some having to walk a little further than others!).

This is mostly thanks to our excellent Save the Rhino Trackers who are expertly skilled in tracking as well spotting rhino from extremely far distances.

A family of Bat eared foxes, 2 cheetah (on two separate occasions), 2 lionesses and many black-backed jackal have been spotted during the month and enjoyed by the guests.

The area has also the new coloured blooms of the season with the large salmon red flowers of Hoodia currori, white flowers of the Catophractes alexandri, Devil thorn yellows, and a blanket of creamy Heliotropium curassavicum flowers. The pods of the Terminalia prunoides and the cones of the female Welwitchia mirabilis add spots of red to the green landscape.

Out on tracking excursions during the day, the colourful sound of the Bokmakierie, the frog- like croaking of the Ruppells Korhaan, the noisy chatter of the Cape Sparrow and last but not least the ascending call of the Benguela long billed lark can be heard. The evenings next to a blazing campfire under the stars are filled with the sounds of many insects, good conversation, and the eerie call of the jackal in the distance.

Palmwag Rhino Camp is situated in the 1 million acre private Palmwag reserve in Damaraland in north-west Namibia, between Etosha and the Skeleton Coast - few places on the planet can offer this level of privacy and wilderness experience.

This desert reserve has a number of fresh water springs that support healthy populations of animals including desert adapted black rhino and elephants as well as large populations of the rare Hartman's mountain zebra, giraffe, oryx, springbok and kudu. The predator population is the largest outside of the Etosha National Park with over 100 lions, cheetah, leopard, brown and spotted hyena.

Bird life is prolific and diverse with most of Namibia's endemics present. Palmwag Rhino Camp accommodates 14 guests in 7 large East African styled "Meru" tents (but can be sold to 8 tents if required) each with an en-suite bathroom comprising hand basin, flush toilet and a classic bucket shower that is filled with hot water whenever needed.

Lights are powered by solar panels and the tented dining room offers uninterrupted views of the desert and mountains. Welwitschia (ancient desert adapted plants) plants dot the plain in front of the camp. Activities include rhino tracking on foot or by vehicle as well as day and night nature drives. Guests often enjoy full day outings, with a picnic lunch, on the reserve.

Palmwag Rhino Camp is a joint venture between Wilderness Safaris and the "Save the Rhino Trust" - a non-profit conservation organisation that has been working in this area for 20 years. The Trust have been singly responsible for helping to ensure that these rare, desert adapted black rhino survived the slaughter that went on throughout other parts of Africa in the 80s and 90s.

Today this population of black rhino is growing in numbers and the area boasts the largest concentration of rhino anywhere on the planet outside of a national park. Community game scouts who were employed by the Trust to help with the patrolling and monitoring all these years are now seconded to the camp and are the trackers and guides. A portion of every guest's revenue goes to the Trust.

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Best of Southern Africa Safari

Chikwenya, Zimbabwe with vacationtechnician.com

Migratory Behavior On a Safari

By NANCY R. NEWHOUSE

The cheetah moved silkily, stealthily picking up one front paw, then the other. Behind her, imitating her movements, were two young males. Our guide explained in a near whisper that she was teaching her teenage sons how to stalk, aiming for a distant group of impala.

Three open Land Rovers, reasonably far apart, held us, the rapt audience. Fifteen minutes passed in utter silence as the cheetah paused to sniff the air, exhaustively scrutinize the terrain, then move on. Suddenly, she dropped low and started running at warp speed, in complete silence. Then to our immense disappointment, she suddenly disappeared behind some small trees on this mostly open plain. Our drivers threw their cars in gear and we careered down the dirt track, but we were too late.

It was the most thrilling moment in an afternoon of game viewing at Mombo Camp in the Okavango Delta in Botswana. But there were so many moments. That morning, we had seen three male lions patrolling their territory. Among the striking birds was the lilac-breasted roller, a lovely little creature (common in southern Africa) in Popsicle tones of lavender, green and turquoise. Zebra and impala were so common they were pretty much ignored, although the elegance of the dainty impala never ceased to charm me.

This was Day 7 of a two-week ''flying safari,'' a mid-May tour of southern Africa with Wilderness Safaris. The ambitious itinerary started in Johannesburg, going from there to Namibia, the Okavango Delta in Botswana, Zambia and Victoria Falls and finally Zimbabwe.

I had arrived in Johannesburg on my own, traveling anonymously, to join what I was told would be a group of 10 others. In fact, when I came down to the lobby of the elegant Grace Hotel, after a night to recover from the numbing flight from New York, just two people were there -- Dan, a lawyer from San Diego, and Bruce Van Niekerk, the young, chipper and omnicompetent South African who was our guide and pilot for the entire trip. This was a group?

I never discovered why the numbers shrank so, but one result was that Dan and I had a private pilot, as well as a terrific guide and companion, flying us around southern Africa in a small plane, a Cessna twin-engine 310. In short order we took off from Lanseria Airport, flying northwest across the Kalahari Desert to southern Namibia.

When, several hours and one refueling stop later, we approached Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp, the first of six lodges that we would visit, we were definitely in the middle of nowhere -- a stark, lunar gray-brown desert.

It seemed impossible that anything could live here, but waving cheerfully as we touched down on the small landing strip was Dios, crisply uniformed, who drove us in a Land Rover up a bone-rattling steep track to the camp, almost invisible above the plain. Two smiling staff members met us with cold washcloths and showed us the handsome lodge and our cabins. Nine of these thatch-roofed, stone and wood ''guest rooms'' (actually individual structures) were strung out along the hillside.

I was amazed at the comfort of my tile-floored bungalow, with its king bed draped in mosquito netting, a chaise and a few pieces of attractive dark wood furniture, a double free-standing sink and claw-foot tub, a toilet and a shower with a small window that opened to the desert. A tiny porch with a postage-stamp sized pool completed the setup, all sited for total privacy.

There wasn't much time, however, to luxuriate. We left after a quick late lunch to explore the Kulala Wilderness Reserve in which the camp is set, and before dawn the next morning, were off to the adjoining Namib-Naukluft Park to see the sun rise.

At almost 19,300 square miles, it is one of the largest nature reserves in Africa, noted not for game (although there are ostrich, springbok, oryx and many birds) but for the vast sweep of huge ocher dunes, truly orange-red at dawn and sunset.

Backpackers and tourists of all ages walked and hiked in the park. Bruce pointed silently to a dune lark, unique to this area, hopping in the grasses before we unpacked a generous picnic brunch under an acacia tree.
That night, back at Sossusvlei, we were surrounded by deep silence, and a black night sky brilliant with low-hanging stars.

The next camp, Ongava in northern Namibia, could not have been more different. We reached it after a diverting day flying up the coast, stopping for a boat ride to see seals, have lunch on the beach and walk around Swakopmund, a pristine little coastal town founded by German settlers in 1892.

At Ongava Lodge, we were in rich game country. The flat plain of vast Etosha National Park, 8,600 square miles, was practically next door. At a popular park watering hole we visited in a Land Rover expedition the next day, zebra, kudu, wildebeest, springbok and black-faced impala milled about. We saw 14 giraffes browsing, their necks sticking up at wild angles, and two young males fighting. A lioness thrilled us by giving chase to a jackal, as her five cubs popped their heads up.

The camp itself, undramatically set in scrub trees at ground level, is in the safari company's private game reserve. As a result, much of the same park game can be seen in relative solitude, or from the lodge, overlooking a watering hole lighted at night.

At Ongava the skill of Shadreck, our ebullient driver-tracker with superhuman eyesight, came into play, as an afternoon game drive extended into darkness. Driving while holding a floodlight, he showed us the track of a python, and knew an elephant's size, age and sex from a footprint. His triumph was finding a family of rhino. On the way, a group of rare Hartmann's mountain zebra dashed across our path.

As at all the camps, at night you are accompanied to and from your lodging by a staff member. After all that rough driving, I fell into bed after dinner, to be awakened by the roaring of a lion, near enough to make the air vibrate.

After arid Namibia, Jao Camp, in the Okavango Delta of Botswana, felt like a verdant water world. Our band of three flew there from the unprepossessing small city of Maun, the jumping-off point for the delta's many camps.

All nine units (wood floors, tented sides, thatch roofs) and the main lodge are connected by wooden walkways, high above the ground under towering trees. Even the animals like the arrangement, as it allows them free passage underneath.

My bungalow was downright luxurious, its wooden floor gleaming, with a comfortable couch and coffee table, free-standing double sinks and tub, and notably, a toilet in a separate enclosure with a floor-to-ceiling view of the delta. An open veranda ran its length. As at each camp, there was an outdoor shower; a mischievous vervet monkey in the canopy tossed a nut down at me as I showered, the closest I got to injury in the wild.

Another amenity, a deeply cushioned gazebo, looked out on the delta, one segment of a vast area where the Okavango River spreads out and comes to an end in an aqueous world of reeds and stunningly rich bird life. Water levels have been a concern in recent years, but the river had just released a substantial amount of water.

At Jao, the few hours of downtime between early-morning and late-afternoon game drives were particularly welcome, and the dawn symphony-- peepers, bell frogs, bird calls -- was scintillating.

It was also the liveliest camp socially, in large part due to the warmth and constant attention to detail of the couple who run it, Rebecca and Clinton. Often, Rebecca met groups when they returned from drives; Clinton quickly fixed a glitch in my outdoor shower. One very jolly dinner was held in a circular log stockade constructed in traditional form; inside, a bar, a communal dinner table and copious buffet, and a stomping, rocking group of welcome songs from the African staff kept us up late around the campfire.

As at other camps, guests were a mixture of Europeans and Americans. Among the 20 or so guests were four Belgians, a French father with teenage son; an Italian and several American couples. And there was at least one young honeymoon couple in each camp.

In addition to game drives, Jao offered boat trips. Moving silently, the narrow makoros, the traditional hollowed-out log boats poled by a standing oarsman, carried us into the mysterious, sinuous delta. We made our way in narrow channels through papyrus and thick reeds, opening into large pools studded with waterlilies. A thumbnail-size green painted reed frog clung to a reed, and a tiny brilliant malachite kingfisher flashed by. At sunset, we pulled up on shore near a huge baobab tree to observe the tradition faithfully followed at every camp, the sundowner. Out came the drinks kit, and shortly a cool vodka and tonic or a glass of good South African red wine was in hand as the sky lighted up and the reeds turned to bronze.

Just 10 miles away, but still requiring a flight, was Mombo Camp, less green than Jao but equally comfortable. The camp looks out on a large shallow lagoon, which animals sloshed across at all hours, particularly lechwe, a marsh-loving antelope, and elephant families.

One creature, the vervet monkey, was all too present; the monkeys had just learned how to unzip bungalow screens and had trashed three cabins.
Leaving Botswana for Zambia, we flew northeast, arriving directly over Victoria Falls before landing in Livingstone, just across the Zambezi from Victoria, which is on the Zimbabwe side. The river was so high that rafting was forbidden and the falls were only partly visible under a cloud of mist.

We were headed for the River Club, a delightful hideaway several miles outside Livingstone, run and co-owned by a paragon of English style, Peter Jones. The lovely small manor house, decorated with hunting prints and deeply comfortable furniture, is supplemented by 10 thatch-roofed, tent-sided bungalows high above the Zambezi. Simply but pleasantly furnished, they are completely open on the river side. To wake up looking directly out on the Zambezi, magnificent in its breadth here, was rivaled only by descending a short staircase to the open-air bathroom (the toilet was enclosed).

Lunch was pleasantly set up under the trees, then guests were free to swim in the pool or take the sunset cruise, as most of us did, seeing hippos and birds including the brilliant bee-eaters. Not a game lodge, the River Club offered a visit to a nearby village with traditional style huts, where we were able to meet Zambian children and talk with their teachers, as well as visits to the funky but interesting Livingstone Museum in town (now under renovation), and of course Victoria Falls. Under umbrellas and slickers in a drenching rain created by the torrent below, we inched along the slippery but well-fenced path on the Zambian side, as moved by the water's thunderous roar as the view, because only a portion of the cascade was visible through the mist.

When Peter Jones was in residence (one night of our two), the River Club was also host to passionate croquet matches.

Before leaving for our last stop, Chikwenya in northeastern Zimbabwe, I wanted to see the Victoria Falls Hotel, the grand 1904 hostelry on the Zimbabwe side of the river. We had already seen the blocks-long lines of cars waiting for gasoline in Livingstone, and an even clearer expression of the political turmoil in Zimbabwe was the near emptiness of the elegant and impeccably maintained hotel.

After meeting Bruce at the Victoria Falls airport, Dan and I were reassured by the long flight over Lake Kariba and hundreds of miles of bush: our Zimbabwean destination was truly remote.

Chikwenya is set in a valley of Eden-like beauty in Mana Pools National Park, a World Heritage Site. The Zambezi, much narrower here, is flanked by huge acacia trees, and game is plentiful, although the camp is known for its fishing. In style, Chikwenya is comfortable but rustic and plain; sadly but unsurprisingly, it was barely half full.

We joined an English angler, who comes here every year, on a morning fishing trip. He immediately caught three fish, including a fighting tiger fish the area is famous for; no one else had a nibble. Then to my astonishment a tiger fish grabbed my hook. I battled to reel it in, and succeeded, with the shouted encouragement of five males. What feelings of triumph!

On our final outing, we took a canoe trip downriver, carefully led by camp staff because of the hippos dotted around the water. A saddle-billed stork, baboons on the bank, egrets, all were at eye level, and as we paddled, the Zambezi was stained pink by a brilliant sunset. It was hard to imagine anything other than peace in this lovely corner of the world.

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Linkwasha, Zimbabwe Safari Report

Zimbabwe Safaris with vacationtechnician.com

March 2004 has been mostly cloudy and overcast with a few days of clear blue sky. Huge thunderstorms have been a common thing this month, mostly at night , and with not nearly as much lightning as in the previous few months. Our total rainfall for the month was 103 mm. Our temps for this month were max 29 deg C and min 18 deg C and overall very comfortable. Evenings and mornings are now starting to cool down as the days get shorter and we get into winter.

With the good rains there is water absoloutly everywhere! Ngamo Plains now resembles parts of the Okavanga Delta! There are still a huge number of wild flowers out and the bush is very thick making spotting difficult in parts! With all the good food in abundance the wildlife all are in very good condition.

WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS
37 Species of mammal were sighted this month in Linkwasha, Zimbabwe . Our average species sighting for the month was 15.6/day and on the best day of the month 21 species were sighted! Not bad at all considering the thick bush and the amount of surface water around. Highlights for this month was the sighting of an Aardwolf near the old camp. It was very close and right out in the open. We haven't seen one for a few months nows. There is alot of activity at Ngamo Plains as it seems the female Wildebeest are starting to come into season and as a result lots of sparing and chasing by the males over leks and the ladies! We pressume it is a little earlier than most years because of all the late rains? Huge herds of Wildebeest still roam the plains and on a few occasions the huge Lioness there has been seen on some carcasses. There is still a good number of Zebra on the plains but already some herds have started moving north west and can be seen in fairly good numbers (30-40) in and around camp. Herds of Buffalo generally seen in small numbers now, and all in great shape! Have had a huge herd of Eland 70 plus hanging around at Back Pans with plenty of new calves.

vacationtechnicians observed as the resident pack of Wilddogs tried to catch a youngster but were driven off by a very protective cow. They have been in and out of camp often this month terrorizing the Impala, Kudu and Waterbuck! We are carefully watching a new edition to the Waterbuck family, about a week old now, and hoping the dogs don't pick it up in their sights! The little Hippo calf, born last month, is fine and well. It seems that any calves born out of winter have a much better chance of survival here! The Leopard sightings have been good and all in the area around camp. The young male still walks through camp regularly at night and a mother and sub adult cub, very relaxed, has been seen on a few occasions between camp and Scotts Pan.

Lions sightings this month mostly came from Ngamo Plains and were of the big "Queen" lioness and 2 other sub adults. Six new lions, mostly males, were seen on the fringe of our concession and we hope to see more of them this month. Hyeanas been very vocal around camp and a pack of 6 , 4 young pups, have been sighted a few times from the main deck. The lone Cheetah male showed himself once this month at Back Pans eyeing out a small herd of Impala.

Our percentages for this month were Buffalo 55%, Eland 97%, Elephants 74%, Giraffe 87%, Hyena-Spotted 32%, Wilddogs 19%, Leopard 16%, Lion 29% and Sable 42%.

Zimbabwe Birds
Species total for this month was 141. Ngamo Plains with all the rain is unbelievable with Spoonbills, Crowned Cranes , Sacred Ibis , Painted Snipes , huge flocks of Knob Billed Ducks , Egrets and Herons !! Our highlight this month was the sighting of a SPURWINGED PLOVER on the 20th March at Ngamo. We have reported the sighting to various birding organisations and are eagerly awaiting for news to see if it is at all possible that this could be the first sighting in Zimbabwe!!! The observations were all made at at distance of less than 15 meters, right out in the open and we were also able to get some excellent pictures of the bird. Everything seems to be breeding, Dabchicks, Spurwinged Geese, Knob Billed Ducks, Red Billed Teals, Egyptian Geese, White Faced Ducks and also a first for most of us here in Hwange were Painted Snipe with 3 chicks! We are closely watching a few African Jacanas nests with eggs and also a Whiskered Tern on eggs near camp.

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April 02, 2004

Okavango Delta Botswana

Okavanga Delta Botswana Flood 2004

Okavango Delta Botswana Flood - Apr 01 2004

The flood of 2004, as of 30th March, 2004 is middle stage. The first wave of water, has now entered the system and the flood levels are dropping at Mohembo. Traditionally the Okavango Delta system has two peaks if plotted on a line graph. The reason for this is that the Cubango river has it's input, up to 6 weeks before the Cuito. Thus, the water entering the Okavango panhandle had a peak inflow of 778 cubic meters per second in late February. This has dropped to 555 cusecs as of yesterday. However, this will definitely rise sometime in the next two weeks and probably top out in the region of 800/810 cusecs.

Historical Water Flow Chart

The Okavango Delta is an extremely dynamic system, driven by tectonic, gradient, sediments, vegetation growth, and mammal movement. No less important is the dynamic and hugely varying climate and weather conditions, and the effect of this on the Okavango.

It is well known that the Okavango Delta has an external catchment, in the central highlands of Angola. From these highlands rise the two rivers that feed the Okavango. From a catchment more west in Angola rises the Cubango and further east the Cuito. The average rainfall in the catchment is in the region of 1000 mm per annum, falling during the months of October, November, December, January and February. There have in the past been considerable rains as late as Mrch and April. These are the very same months that rain falls over the Okavango alluvial fan(or delta) itself.

The timing of the rains, both in Angola and over the fan has a huge effect on the total amount of water that enters the Okavango region in any given season.

What I meant earlier about the dynamics of the weather enters this domain. For example, in the last two decades we have had extremely dry rainfall months over the Okavango itself. Combined with evapotranspiration this has meant that the Kgalgadi sands which underpin the Okavango have been extremely dehydrated WHEN THE FLOOD ARRIVES in January at the top of the panhandle. The amount of floodwaters have to, therefor, firstly fill the sand and then spread out over the delta proper.

If there were good rains as in 2000/2001, they arrived out of sinc with what turned out to be a smallish flood. Thus the area that was flooded in the following season, was relatively small.

This season 2003/04 we have has a wonderful set of dynamic timing.

The rains started to fall very early in October in the Cubango section of the catchment. In other words they started to fall in October in the highlands. When these waters started to arrive in the delta they coincided with the arrival of the local rains. These local rains have themselves been better than those of more than 9 years. Of some importance, is the fact that they have been spread out in such a way that, as the flood spread out over the fan, the rains had saturated the ground ahead. This has resulted in the water being able to move relatively quickly and more widely that for more than two decades.

The total input of rain has been estimated to be between 2 and 30% of the total flood that enters the Okavango. Early estimates, based on rainfall figures from Shakawe and Maun, as well as from our camps in the delta, would indicate that this year, the rain will contribute about 14% of the total. This is not measured at any discharge meter, but can be seen on the ground, with gleaming waters spreading throughout the delta.

On the Jao, Xigera, Pom Pom system, there has also been a net gain of water at the expense of the Boro system. The Jao camps, Xigera and Pom Pom are surrounded by good deep water and are a must see for wetland lovers. The Kwedi concession camps of Duba, Vumbura, Little Vumbura and Vundumtiki have returned to the wonderland that that area can be. Boating to and from the camps and to the dryland for game drives. Mombo is in effect and island, with wildlife being extremely concentrated. Fantastic viewing of many, many species in a relatively small area is the order of the day in the delta. I can hardly believe the bird life this year so far.

Anyone, who is awe inspired by natural places, and understands the importance of wetland bio-diversity, absolutely must visit Botswana's Okavango this year.

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