Chitabe Trails Safari Report
Dear Friends,
As the rest of Botswana's Okavango Delta experiences the inundation of an early flood and a late deluge, rising and falling with the ebb and flow of an ancient rhythm of life-giving waters, Chitabe remains but a distant goal in the timeless history of the surging waters' memory- when once the island was completely encircled by water, we await the marvels of this phenomenon again.
The climate has settled into an autumn chill- clear bright skies, with chilly evenings and mornings. The average temperatures have altered somewhat dramatically, with highs around 29 degrees and lows around 12 degrees Celsius. We huddle around the fire for early morning breakfasts, tucking into bowls of Ben's delicious hot porridge as the dawn chorus of Swamp Bou Bous, Meyer's Parrots and Starlings welcome the sunrise.
The African Marula Trees have provided a feast for our local fauna- baboons, squirrels, elephants and resident humans have been indulging in the delicious fruit, which have covered the ground below their magnificent boughs.
The bushbuck ewe that calls Chitabe Trails island home has dropped, and she and her lamb are often seen picking their delicate way through the vegetation. She has particularly beautiful markings, and her offspring is a gorgeous carbon copy of her�
At the outlying pans, Saddlebill Storks, Wattled Cranes, Spurwing, Pygmy and Egyptian geese, Pied Kingfishers and Blackwinged Stilts are delighting in the abundance of water- a birder's paradise!
A fond farewell to our migrant species of feathered friends, who have finally headed north- apart from one woodland kingfisher who seemed to have lost his compass, or enjoyed our company so much that he left a few weeks after all the rest had gone.
On our eastern boundary, the once mighty Gomoti channel has risen again from a long period of drought, risen and fallen, the water claimed by the thirsty sands of the Kalahari below. Hippo have moved into the area after a long absence, and their calls reverberate into the African night, competing with the mighty roars of the four massive Gomoti lions, as they have been named, who have also recently appeared from the Moremi area.
Our resident coalition of male lions in the Chitabe sandbelt area have developed an interesting adaptation. Previously being buffalo specialists, they would bring one down almost every week, but now since the buff have not been in the area for some time, they have begun killing giraffe on a semi-regular basis, and have even brought down the occasional juvenile elephant.
The lioness that brought her cubs into the relative safety of the camp has moved her brood off- after she introduced them to her former pride-mate and her year-old cub. We were all mesmerised by the meeting, which took place in the middle of the day right in front of the camp. Before she left, the Warrs from the UK were treated to the sight of her calling out and suckling her cubs right outside their tent!
Ebineng was out on the Gomoti when he spotted three lionesses stalking a buffalo. One completed her final charge and was able to leap onto its back. With her sisters bring up the rear, the buffalo thundered away and into the channel, sending up plumes of spray in all directions. When Ebs and his guests were again able to see clearly, the buffalo was making off on the other side of the floodplain, leaving a disappointed-looking lioness on the other side of the water!
We have had a sighting of a lactating female cheetah in the area, which would be a pretty good indicator of cubs being somewhere nearby- although we haven't seen them yet, the grasses are still very high, but just starting to turn to a tinge of autumnal dun. Later in the month they will begin to flatten and die down, affording us better viewing opportunities.
Leopard sightings have been good, and there are at least six in the area close to camp- occasionally we hear the large male who lives in the island alongside give his unmistakable rasping call, sending the baboons into a fury of shouts and roars. Relax has also spotted a lactating female in the acacia woodland, so hopefully we might spot her cub or cubs soon!
Speaking of cats, vacationtechnician clients saw a young female caracal on sunset road, which was a truly memorable experience, as they are extremely shy and hard to spot.
The Moonstone Pack of six wild dogs have been sighted several times this month- and although they are a small and raggedy pack in comparison to the larger Mogogelo pack, they are doing well, hunting impala successfully in the sweet-grass areas of mopane woodland. We are expecting a litter from them in July, when they will form a den- this should hopefully swell their numbers somewhat�
The walking season is upon us again, and we have walkers out there almost every day, soaking in the wonders of being on foot out there in our glorious wilderness. This is an experience enriched by encountering things one would not normally notice from a noisy moving vehicle- the engagement of all of the senses (including some that have no name), revelling in your body, at one with the majesties of creation that surround you. Sleeping out in the hide, serenaded by the plinking sounds of the reed frogs, listening to the whoops of hyena giggling at their own private jokes, and hippos chortling to themselves in the channels is an experience few will ever forget.
The sunsets have transformed once again into their winter splendour- the sky is like the inside of a cobalt Faberge egg as the golden orb of the sun sinks us into another star-studded African night. Listening to the chirrups of the scops owls and the warbling lament of the nightjars as we sit around the fire of an evening reminds us all what a special and wondrous place Chitabe is, and we invite you to share the joys both great and small of simply being here.
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Client Comments
Ora and Michael Singer (New York)- " Ben was and amazing, outstanding guide who was very aware of what we had and had not seen, and chose our route accordingly!"
Fred and Gill Schwab (UK)- " The friendliness, warmth and hospitality here are the very best. Staying here is like staying with friends. A big thank you to everybody."
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