Mvuu Camp/Lodge MalawiMalawi Safari Report - June 2004
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Clear blue skies, chilly mornings and all the time drying out���. By the end of June there is very little palatable grass left in Liwonde National Park. The open areas east of the Lodge have taken on the dry barren desert appearance usually only seen in the last weeks of the dry season. There is not a blade of grass left in the area, piles of elephant dung are scattered every few meters across the sandy exposed earth and the Acacia tortilis have been heavily shredded, with broken branches and strips of bark dangling from their trunks. On the night of the 12th the elephants returned to finish off a job started last November. They ate away at the scarred trunk of the Baobab in the middle of the open area, eventually toppling the massive tree bringing to an end, in a single night, what has been a feature of the landscape for hundreds of years. The hippo have given up their nightly migrations into the interior of the park and instead spend their nights grazing on the last remaining areas of grass along the edge of the marshes. The entire elephant population has moved to the river, with numerous small herds scattered from Chinguni in the south to Mvera in the north. By the end of the month most boat trips during the heat of the day were recording well over a hundred elephant in a two to three hour period. The nightly nocturnal visits to the lodge by breeding herds to feed in the lush riverine vegetation along the edge of the lagoon have once again become the norm. The Mopane leaves have started turning to a golden brown colour, carpeting the woodland floors with rich rusty colours in the late afternoon light. The water holes scattered inland have mostly died out with only a handful still supporting small muddy puddles at their centre. Towers of billowing smoke that mark the perennial bush fires that rush through the tall dry thatching grass in the east of the park have become a feature on the distant eastern horizon. Only the nightly chill in the air and crisp clear skies in the morning give any indication that the height of the dry season is still to come.
As the month progressed so the level of crocodile activity in the lagoon increased as the crocs moved into their breeding season. The large territorial male has recommenced frequent high profile patrols around the lagoon in a routine that takes him from the shallows at the eastern end of the lagoon, past the tents, below the dining area and along the edge of the walkway out to the mouth of the lagoon before looping back around close to the far bank before returning. Every few meters it surfaces, exhaling with a loud hissing noise to make sure any potential challengers are fully aware that they enter the lagoon at their peril. When not on patrol it positions itself high on the sand bank opposite tent 3 in a very impressive display of bulk and armoury, showing off assets that make it one of the most efficient predators on the planet.
The Boehm's bee eaters have started nesting and are seen in numbers perching low in the branches along the lodge pathways, before swooping on an unsuspecting insect flying past. A sharp snapping noise as the bird grabs the insect and returns to the perch to batter its victim on the branch before swallowing it whole. The persistent watcher is soon rewarded as the birds frequently return to their nests and give away the small hole in the ground with a few scratch marks around the edge of it, the only sign of activity going on below. Out along the edge of the water the usual residents ensure that any-one spending a quiet half hour in the hammocks on the tent balconies is entertained with an insight into the bustling goings on of life in the lagoon. The large open billed stork is a constant fixture, perched on one of the dead Acacia's over the water, watching life go by. The pair of fish eagles sit high in the fever trees, recording the passing of time with their echoing call that for many visitors is the signature tune of Africa. Down on the water lilies and grasses of the floating island at the lagoon edge, Black crake, Squacco and Green backed heron, Little bittern, Cattle egrets, African jacana's and numerous Weavers, Warblers and Prinia's all strive to make a living in a busy world. A rustling in the leaves under the thickets, reveals the slow methodical movements of a large monitor lizard, creeping toward the water while all the time the background melody as the robins and palm thrushes strive to out perform each other.
By the second week of the month elephant herds had arrived is such numbers along the river that it became impossible to even begin to explain to guests that two months ago we had to search far and wide to get even a glimpse of an elephant. Breeding herds appear out of the mopane woodland in the early hours of the morning, heading west to the marshes and river. They follow the tree lines along the long dry sandy river beds of the Ntangaye, Nangondo, Namandanje and Mwalasi rivers before plunging into the still waters of the lagoons at the mouths of the rivers flooded back inland from the Shire River. They spend the day light hours submerged up to their midriffs feeding in the tall reeds and marshes. The flood plain south of the Ntangaye River has become a fascinating hot spot of late afternoon activity. To the south lies large stretches of uninterrupted marsh, that comes to an abrupt halt as the tall riverine thickets along of Ntagaye River protrude right to the edge of the Shire. To the north the marshes give away to the high river banks in the area of Mvuu. Numerous herds of elephant spend the day slowly moving north through the marshes before arriving at the open flood plains of the southern Ntangaye by late afternoon. From here they rush across the open areas into the thickets to the north. Several herds often appearing at once out of the reeds, followed by the ever present wondering bulls. Huge social gatherings have been occurring at the edge of the thickets as the breeding herds meet and offer their greetings. Calves and young bulls are noisily disciplined as they get carried away in the excitement of meeting distant relatives, while the large solitary bulls use the opportunity to prove their dominance to the young bulls still attached to the breeding herds. On the evening of the 21st we parked the vehicle alongside the fever tree grove on the edge of the southern Ntangaye flood plain. In the golden light of the late afternoon we watched as five breeding herds of between 10 - 20 in each emerged out of the tall reeds in the south, hurried in close formation across the open flood plain and stop at the edge of the tree line. Three large bulls waited at the edge of the reeds to greet each herd before rushing with them across the grass plain only to return within a few minutes to disappear into the reeds of the marsh and then reappear with the next herd. Each time the young bulls of the herd were singled out for special attention. The much larger bulls place their tusks and trunk on the smaller bull's forehead letting out a screech before driving the young bull backward for ten meters or so before it broke and ran for cover in the thickets.
The buffalo herds are still out in the far north eastern sector of the park, spoor can frequently been seen in the block between the northern sanctuary fence line, East road and the Old Niafulu Hills road. There are a number of water holes in this section all of which appear to be within a few weeks of completely drying out. In the last week of the month a couple of large bush fires spread in from the eastern park boundary and burnt much of the remaining grazing in the area so I suspect the herds will be forced to move in the next few weeks. If their movement patterns from last year are repeated they should move south into the grasslands immediately to the north of the Niafulu hills where a large water hole still has some water reserves. As this too dries out they then moved further south to the Mwalasi area. Both of these areas are within striking range of our game drives so we will hopefully record an increase in sightings in the coming months.
We have opened a new game drive road, aptly named Sable road, that cuts west from east road though the cathedral Mopane woodlands to eventually emerge at Mvera drive and the Shire. Late afternoon drives along this road have provided us with some fantastic sable viewing. Several breeding herds, numbering between 50 - 80 animals, have been recorded on each drive along a grassland spur that runs along a shallow drainage line. This road has added a fantastic new dimension to the game drives by cutting right through the heartland of the sables favourite habitat and providing the sort of sable viewing previously only a feature in the last few weeks of the dry season as the sable emerge from the woodland areas to drink at the Shire.
The Kudu bulls are still in close attendance to the small breeding herds frequently seen in the thicket areas. The highlight of the month was on the 28th when the Ntagaye herd appeared out of the thickets and strode out onto the open flood plain of the southern Ntangaye. The herd is made up of three mature females, three calves from last season, a young bull of 2-3 years and closely followed by a very large bull with spiral horns that must be close to two meters towering above him. One of the females appeared to be in season and was being followed very closely by the young bull. The dominant bull looked on without showing any undue concern. We then watched for more than half an hour as the young bull repeatedly mounted the female, without even as much as a glance of protest from the large bull in attendance. Obviously it hasn't read the books about the large dominant bulls chasing the young bulls from the herd and thus preventing interbreeding.
Drives in the breeding sanctuary have remained fairly quiet with sightings of sable, Liechtenstein's hartebeest and zebra. On the 14th the scouts on an anti poaching patrol reported coming across a leopard in the vicinity of the Mwalasi river mouth. On seeing them it apparently climbed down from the tree where it was resting and disappeared into the thickets.
Night drives in the second half of the month were a bit quiet with the combination of full moon and relatively cold temperatures keeping activity to a minimum. However we got very excited on the night of the 22nd when the spotlight beam revealed the small scurrying shape of a striped polecat in the vicinity of Staff and Flycatcher road junction. The second record in two months and only one of a handful of sightings in the ten years of the lodge's existence. A pangolin was also reported in the same area from one of the drives from the camp, again a once or twice a year occurrence. Civet and porcupine have continued to show up at regular intervals and sightings of genet, thick tailed and lesser bush baby, white-tailed and marsh mongooses are frequently recorded. The jackals have moved north into the area between crocodile sandbank and Old cormorant colony and are only seen occasionally at the moment. We have been treated to some excellent owl sightings with Pel's, white-faced, barred, wood, scops, giant eagle and spotted eagle owls all been record during the month.
The activity in the breeding colony of White breasted cormorants has reached fever pitch as the huge number of chicks scream for attention from the adults returning from their fishing sorties to the north. The commotion can be heard for more than a kilometre along the river. On the afternoon of the 6th I was sitting in the vehicle on the northern banks of the lagoon watching the hive of activity in the white coated Borassus palms across the water. I noticed that one of the palms right in the middle of the colony looked strangely out of place. Its leaves were the pale green colour of the palms further down stream away from the colony. The cormorants without exception were avoiding this tree. Closer inspection revealed a much larger nest tucked in above the clumps of Borassus fruit with the unmistakable shaped head of an adult fish eagle protruded from the top of the nest. A second bird called from the dead Lead wood to the north of the lagoon and its mate in the nest responded. Completely intrigued by the bird's choice of nesting sight I settled down to watch. Sure enough within half an hour the male Fish-eagle swooped off its perch and darted into the mass confusion of Cormorants in the colony. It made two or three unsuccessful attempts to catch a fleeing cormorant in flight before settling just above its nest. On three occasions since during the month we have watched as this scene was repeated and have twice found the fish eagles feeding on cormorants. While fish eagles in general have been quite often recorded to be catching and feeding on other birds, the deliberate sighting of a nest in amongst such an abundant food source as provided in the cormorant colony is something fascinating.
We recorded a very creditable 203 species of birds during the month, with three additions to our year to date records: African Black Sunbird, Southern Banded Snake eagle and a Southern Pochard. Of the Liwonde specials Lillian's Love Birds are prolific at the moment attracted in large flocks to feed on the small orange yellow fruit clustered on the top of the Euphorbias (ingens). We have recorded Brown breasted Barbets on three occasions and were once again treated to the sight of two Pel's fishing owls roosting high in an acacia albida during an early morning walk in the southern Ntangai thickets. The group of resident Spur-wing plovers has appeared to have expanded their range with a number of sightings of a second group of up to four birds in the vicinity of Borassus palm in the north to complement the frequent sightings in the vicinity of the Ntangaye mouth to the south. We have also had some very nice late afternoon sightings of a pair of White-backed night herons in the lagoon at the cormorant colony.
Mvuu Camp is situated just south of Mvuu Lodge on the banks of the Shire River in Malawi's Liwonde National Park.
It offers a wide range of options including camping, self catering and full board rates with activities. The activities on offer are the same as Mvuu Wilderness Lodge, but the camp is better suited either to families or those on a budget as rates are very reasonable.
A particularly rewarding way of arriving at Mvuu Camp is via the boat trip from Liwonde Town. This river trip takes you 30 kilometres along the Shire offering an excellent chance to see game and birds en route and also the ever changing scenery and vegetation along the banks.
There are nine comfortable walk in tents with shared facilities and five en suite brick chalets. A large wood and thatch dining and lounge area is situated nearby and offers a magnificent view upstream to the north. There is also a specially constructed boma for dinners under the stars.
among the "specials".
Elephant and Sable Antelope occur in large numbers, as do Hippo, Crocodile, Impala and Waterbuck. Leopard, Serval and the rare Oribi may occasionally be seen. Black Rhino have been reintroduced from South Africa's Kruger National Park, as have Zebra, Lichtenstein's Hartebeest, and Buffalo from elsewhere within Malawi.
Birds are prolific, especially along the Shire River where African Fish Eagle, Palmnut Vulture, African Skimmer and Pel's Fishing Owl are fairly common. Bohm's Beeeater, Lilian's Lovebird, Bat Hawk, Livingstone's Flycatcher, Whitebacked Night Heron and Brownbreasted Barbet are among the "specials."
LOCATION
� Situated to the south of Lake Malawi in the Liwonde National Park, the camp is built overlooking the Shire River, the main drainage river from Lake Malawi.
PRICING / CHILD POLICY
High Season: July to October, Easter and Christmas
Low Season: Rest of the year
Children over the age of 8 are welcome.
ACCOMMODATION
Number of tents:
5 Tents in total consisting of:
� 4 twin bedded tents
� 1 honeymoon tent with bath
� Guides/tour leaders accommodated in guest accommodation if available otherwise in staff quarters
This camp can accommodate ten guests; larger groups can also be accommodated in the nearby Mvuu Camp which sleeps up to 36 guests.
Tent details:
� Private veranda overlooking secluded lagoon
� En-suite facilities with a shower
� Tents are mosquito proofed
� Soaps, shampoos and insect repellents are supplied in each room
CAMP DESCRIPTION
Communal Area:
� Dining room and pub under thatch
� Swimming pool
GAME VIEWING
Superb area for Elephant, Hippo and Crocodile during the drier months in the middle of the year. Kudu, Sable, Impala, Waterbuck and Warthog are seen as well as Serval, Civet, Mongoose and Genets on night drives. Baboon, Vervet Monkeys, Bushbuck, Oribi, Leopard, Lion and Bush pig are also found and the birdlife is spectacular all year - Boems Bee-eater.
ACTIVITIES
� Game drives in 1 x 10 seater vehicle
� Night drives
� Boating in 1 x 10 seater safari boat
� Walks with experienced guides
� River Safaris
� The highlight here is superb river cruises where guests may get close to Hippos, Crocodile and wonderful birdlife. There is a Black Rhino re-introduction program and it is possible (with special permission) to visit the Rhino sanctuary in the park, which also contains Liechtenstein's Hartebeest and Buffalo.
SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE
Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.
06h00 Game Walk
07h00 Breakfast
08h00 Boat safari
12h00 Lunch
16h00 Game Drive
19h00 Dinner, table d' h�te or occasionally curry buffet or braai (barbecue)
ELECTRICITY & WATER
� 220v generator
� 12v solar for lights in the tents
� No plugs in the tents but can use plugs at reception if necessary
DRINKS POLICY
Drinks are not included in the nightly tariff and are charged to the guests account.
LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service, included in the nightly tariff
EXTRAS PAYMENT
Payment can be affected by cash or the following credit cards: Visa, MasterCard and American Express.
FLYING TIMES
To/from Lilongwe 55 minutes
To/from Blantyre 40 minutes
To/from Club Makalolo 20 minutes
AIRSTRIP DETAILS
Mvuu (Makanga)
Airstrip co-ordinates:
S 14.15, E35.18
1000m long
GRATUITY SCHEDULE
The following is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards:
Guides - US$5.00 per person per day
General Camp Staff - US$3.00 per person per day
Specialist Guides (if applicable) - US$10.00 per person per day
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Little Kulala Safari Report - June 2004
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The weather in June has been one which is definitely introducing the winter temperature especially in the late evening and early morning with our coldest night being 3 degrees!! The morning temperature in general was a bit kinder to us with a usual 10 degrees, but don't feel discouraged there are plenty of our guests still sleeping on our star beds looking at the stars. The temperature during the day is wonderful and comfortable ranging between 25 and 29 degrees.
Everybody is enjoying the closed vehicles on the morning to drive to Sossusvlei and the hike to Deadvlei and to conquer Big Daddy. Even with the nature drives one needs to remember to take some warm clothes along. Very exciting at the beginning of June we had the transit of Venus across the Sun and for a couple of hours in the morning everyone's noses were facing skywards looking at the sun with protective eclipse glasses, we are definitely ready for the next one.
Orion and the beautiful Saturn are not visible anymore but in the morning Venus is back in action as the morning star. Exciting constellations visible this month are Scorpio, Southern Cross and in the north we are able to see part of Orsa Major or better known as the Big Dipper.
Our little water hole has become increasingly popular with most, including daily visits from six resident ostrich; our big group of Oryx lead by an albino are coming to the water hole quite frequently and of course our faithful groups of springbok. More often in the evenings lately, we have been lucky with predator sightings including the Spotted Eagle owl, Jackals, however, our Spotted Hyaena are shy at the waterhole, we hear them most nights during their howling concerts. An unusual sighting this month was a Blacksmith Plover which found a home at our waterhole for two days.
Little Kulala is situated on a large private reserve, bordering the Namib Naukluft Park, in the heart of the Namib. The camp offers magnificent views of the famous red dunes of Sossusvlei, mountainous scenery and vast open plains.
Little Kulala has eight thatched and canvas chalets of Kulalas, each built on a wooden platform to provide maximum airflow. A popular option with outdoor enthusiasts is to sleep under the stars - mattresses are placed on private stargazing platform on top of each room.
The main lodge has a lounge, bar, dining area and plunge pool, with a view of the dunes. The verandah overlooks a waterhole. Early morning guided game drives to the spectacular dunes are through a private gate on the Tsauchab River.
Game drives and walks are also offered on the private reserve. Here, guests can enjoy incredible views, desert game and smaller desert fauna and flora. Another option, at an extra cost, is early morning ballooning, beginning at first light.
The 60-minute balloon safari offers a truly unique experience to soar silently above the magnificent sand dunes and desert - with a champagne breakfast served at your landing site.
On the edge of the oldest desert in the world, this is not a game rich area, however, whatever game we see is interesting and dramatised by the contrast between the desert and animals like Springbok, Gemsbok (Oryx) and Ostrich who manage to survive in these harsh conditions.
Night drives using spotlights often encounter small mammals such as Aardwolf, Bat Eared Fox, Hares and sometimes Spotted Hyenas
LOCATION� Kulala is 350 km south of Windhoek and can easily be reached by sedan car.
� The entrance is situated 17 km south of Sesriem on the road 826 (follow the signpost with arrows on the C36).
PRICING / CHILD POLICY
High Season: July to October
Shoulder Season: January to June & November to December
☼ Children over the age of 8 years are welcome
ACCOMMODATION
Number of units:
Eight chalets in total comprising:
� 7 x "kulalas" each with twin beds (there are 4 extra beds available for children/triples)
� 1 x family room which sleeps 5
� 4 x tour leader/guides can be accommodated in rondavels
19 guests in total can be accommodated plus tour leaders
Chalet details:� Each "kulala" is especially adapted to the unique desert conditions, built on a platform to ensure maximum airflow, thatch roof provide a cool respite from the sun
� Ceiling fans ensure a breeze at all times.
� All rooms are en-suite with shower, flush toilet and hand basin.
� Each room has a private veranda with view of the majestic dunes without seeing the neighbours.
� A private rooftop area on top of the bathroom gives guests the opportunity of spending a night under the magnificent night sky for which bedrolls are available.
CAMP DESCRIPTION� The main lodge comprises of the reception, lounge, bar, dining room and veranda.
� Thatch roofed
� There is a swimming pool with shaded area if guests want to relax
GAME VIEWING
A water hole in front of the main building gives the opportunity to see Oryx, Springbok, Bat Eared Fox, Aardwolf, Ostrich and Jackals. Some Spotted Hyenas can be heard at night.
ACTIVITIES� Nature drives into the desert in 3 x 10 seater and 1 x 6 seater 4 x 4 vehicles
� Walking Trails
� Visits to Bushman painting sites
� Visit to Sossusvlei and Sesriem
� Balloon safaris (additional cost, even if guests are on Fully Inclusive rate. Closed 15 January to 15 February)
� Horse riding safari (on request and at an additional cost)
� The Scenic sundowner tour is one of the best scenic safaris in the Namib. This exclusive tour is ended with a Champagne sundowner.
� Private vehicles can be booked at an additional cost, subject to availability.
SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE
Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.
05h00 - Wake Up
05h30 - Light breakfast is served
05h55 - Depart on Sossusvlei excursion
Full buffet brunch is served on the dunes
Return to Lodge
15h45 - Depart on afternoon activity
19h00 - Dinner at the Lodge
ELECTRICITY & WATER� Solar heating for hot water
� 220v power is available in each kulala camp 24 hours a day
� Video battery recharging facilities are available; please bring spare battery and adaptors.
DRINKS POLICY
Drinks on game drives and house-wine at dinner are included in the Fully Inclusive rate. All other drinks are excluded unless pre-arranged (for an extra cost all drinks can be included).
LAUNDRY POLICY
A daily laundry service is included in the nightly tariff.
EXTRAS PAYMENT
Payment can be affected by: Travellers' cheques, cash or Visa/MasterCard
FLYING / DRIVING TIMES
To/from Windhoek 1 hour 15 mins
To/from Swakopmund 1 hour
Self drive � 5 hours from/to Windhoek (350 Km)
Self drive � 6 hours from/to Swakopmund (380 Km)
AIRSTRIP DETAILS
Geluk Airstrip co-ordinates
S 24.40.6, E 015.48.1
Gravel surface
15 minutes from camp
GRATUITY SCHEDULE
The following is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards:
R 100 per guest per day. This will be divided up amongst the camp staff.
*`�*-.,_,.-*`�*-.,_,.-*�
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.
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Serra Cafema Namibia Safari Report - June 04
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June has been a great month for Serra Cafema. We were very busy with the peak season starting. Our guests came from all over the world, from as far as New Zealand and as close as South Africa. Serra Cafema is a knock out for our guests, some saying they now no longer have to go to the moon, Serra Cafema is better.
The Himba tribe continues to amaze people. Even though not many of them have remained at the village, they still give the guests a good impression on how they live in this barren area. They really have such a rich culture, there is so much to learn from them.
We still have not had any rain, however, some of the animals are returning to the area. Temperatures have dropped somewhat in the mornings and evenings, however, the fireplace in the main area is very cozy and the best spot to warm up and relax after a long day out on the quad bikes. We are also getting more and more foggy mornings in camp, it sure makes getting out of bed very difficult.
The water level of the Kunene is going down quite rapidly, making the boat trips shorter and the crocodile viewing better with a 3 meter croc daily waiting at the rapids close to camp. The bird life is great. Night life has been booming with regular sightings of Black-backed Jackal and Brown Hyaena around camp.
Serra Cafema remains the best place to end your safari in Namibia, or even Botswana. After a hectic safari of getting up early in the mornings and being kept busy throughout the day, Serra Cafema is the spot to come and relax at. Our activities will also keep you busy, but the water in the late afternoons and evenings will sooth your soul back to normality.
Come see for yourselves how beautiful our dunes and mountains are, this is a little peace of heaven on earth.
Serra Cafema Camp is one of the most remote camps in all of Southern Africa and offers one of the most memorable experiences in Namibia. The small 16 bedded camp, whose only access is by aircraft, is located in the extreme north-west of Namibia and is further away from Namibia's capital city, Windhoek, than from Botswana's Okavango Delta.
Serra Cafema shares this region with the wonderful and colourful Himba people who are some of the last true nomadic people of Africa. The Kunene River is the only permanent source of water and creates an oasis along its banks surrounded by rugged mountains and sand dunes.
The camp is situated under big shady Albida trees overlooking the Kunene River and comprises 8 canvas and thatched chalets that are raised off the ground, each with its own en-suite bathroom. Other facilities include a small swimming pool, dining room and bar. One goes to sleep at night to the gurgling water sounds from the rapid just downstream from camp.
In stark contrast, during the day, guests spend their time exploring one of the planet's driest deserts. Activities include enjoying the breath-taking landscape scenes with Springbok, Ostrich and Oryx dotted here and there, traversing the sand dunes in 4x4 Landrovers and boating on the Kunene River where we can watch for the Kunene crocodiles.
Walking in the remote mountain and river valleys are also a highlight. Serra Cafema is often visited by the native Ovahimba families who live in the nearby vicinity, which gives guests the opportunity to learn about their lifestyle and traditions.
Guests can get into some of the massive sand dunes to the west of the camp.
Game viewing in this area is limited to large herds of Oryx and springbok in the Hartman's valley. The Kunene River has a large population of Nile Crocodiles. Cinderella Waxbills, Rufous Bellied Palmtrush and Grey Kestrels are three species of bird not seen anywhere else in southern Africa, Palm nut vultures are seen occasionally as well as a number of the Namibian endemics. There are also a number of endemic reptiles.
LOCATION- Situated on the southern bank of the Kunene River
- At the foot of the Hartman's valley.
PRICING / CHILD POLICY
High Season: July to October
Shoulder Season: January to June & November to December
Children over the age of 8 years are welcome
ACCOMMODATION
Number of tents:
7 tents comprising of:
- 1 double tent with king size bed
- 4 twin tents
- 1 family tent
- 2 en-suite guide / pilot rooms.
This camp can accommodate 15 guests (if including a family) plus tour leaders.
Tent details- En-suite bathrooms with indoor and outside shower.
- Private viewing decks overlooking the Kunene river valley and the Serra Cafema hills.
- Overhead fan
- Large mosquito nets
- Large luxuriously appointed Meru tents which are raised off the ground
CAMP DESCRIPTION- Situated under big, shady Albia trees with uninterrupted views of the Kunene river valley.
- The camp is elevated on wooden decks with walkways to each tent.
- Small pool
- Dining area and bar
GAME VIEWING
Game viewing in this area is limited to large herds of Oryx and springbok in the Hartman's valley. The Kunene River has a large population of Nile Crocodiles. Cinderella Waxbills, Rufous Bellied Palmtrush and Grey Kestrels are three species of bird not seen anywhere else in southern Africa, Palm nut vultures are seen occasionally as well as a number of the Namibian endemics. There are also a number of endemic reptiles.
ACTIVITIES- Nature drives in Hatman's valley in open land rovers.
- Traversing the sand dunes on quad bikes
- Boating on the Kunene River
- Walks in the valleys and at the waterfalls
- Visit to a working Himba village
- Full day outings with picnic lunch
SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE
Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.
06h00 - Wake up
07h00 - Full breakfast
07h30 - Depart on full day outing which can include walking, visiting a nearby village, quad biking or boating on the Kunene River. A picnic lunch is included
19h00 - A three course dinner is served in camp
Stargazing
ELECTRICITY AND WATER- 12v Power with facility to charge video battery
- Water is solar heated
- 12v power for lighting and fans in the tents
DRINKS POLICY
Drinks on game drives and house-wine at dinner are included. All other drinks are excluded unless pre-arranged (for an extra cost all drinks can be included).
LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service is included in the nightly tariff
EXTRAS PAYMENT
Payment can be affected by cash, travellers' cheques or Visa/MasterCard
FLYING TIME
Windhoek 3hrs 20 mins
Swakopmund 2hrs 30 mins
AIRSTRIP DETAILS
Hartmann Valley and following are the airstrip details:
Latitude: S17 22 37.0
Longitude: E012 15 22.0
Altitude: 1900ft
Length: 850m
Heading: 02/20
GRATUITY SCHEDULE
The following is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards:
R100 per guest per day. This will be divided up amongst the camp staff.
SUGGESTED LUGGAGE LIST
1. Good quality sunglasses - preferably polarized. Tinted fashion glasses are not good in strong light
2. Sun hat
3. Golf-shirts, T-shirts and long-sleeved cotton shirts
4. Shorts/skirts
5. Long trousers/slacks
6. Track suit
7. More formal attire for your stay at prestigious city hotels or on one of the luxury trains.
8. Underwear (sports bra recommended on game drives as the roads can be bumpy and uneven) and socks
9. Good walking shoes (running/tennis shoes are fine)
10. Sandals
11. Swimming costume
12. Warm winter jersey
13. Warm Anorak or Parka and scarf / gloves for the cold winter months (May to September)
14. Light rain gear for summer months (late November to April)
15. Camera equipment and plenty of film
16. If you wear contact lenses, we recommend that you bring along a pair of glasses in case you get irritation from the dust
17. BINOCULARS - ESSENTIAL (Night vision binoculars are not essential but highly recommended if your safari includes night activities)
18. Newman's bird book if you are a keen birder
19. Personal toiletries (basic amenities supplied by most establishments)
20. Malaria tablets (if applicable)
21. Moisturizing cream & suntan lotion
22. Insect repellent e.g. Tabard, Rid, Jungle Juice, etc
23. Basic medical kit (aspirins, plasters, Immodium, antiseptic cream and Anti-histamine cream etc)
24. Tissues/"Wet Ones"
25. Visas, tickets, passports, money etc
26. Waterproof/dustproof bags/cover for your cameras.
Please note that bright colours and white are NOT advised whilst on safari. Please remember that there may be a restriction on luggage limits on your safari - please ensure that you have the details from your agent according to your itinerary and ask your agent ahead of time if you would like details on the feasibility and costs of taking excess luggage with you on any of these restricted luggage safaris.
*`�*-.,_,.-*`�*-.,_,.-*�
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.
Safari Field Reports
About The VacationTechnician Company
The VacationTechnician Company Conservation Campaign
Makalolo Camp Zimbabwe Safari Report - June 2004
Plan a Makalolo Safari with vacationtechnician.com
Either we've all acclimatised to the Hwange weather or Mother Nature is saving a cold surprise for later! The winter weather has been quite bearable with minimum temperatures ranging between 3 and 12 degrees Celsius. Overall, these sunny days have boasted a comfortable average of 27 degrees Celsius and the pleasant temperatures can be attributed to the cloud cover that has been keeping the warmth in. However, after sunset, the temperatures drop quite rapidly and it is necessary to wrap up! Some guests have donned their bath robes on the morning and evening drives and have started a new fashion trend at Makalolo!
On 8 June we witnessed the transition of Venus with the sun - looking through welding helmet glass; Venus was seen as a small dot on the lower right hand side of the sun's circumference. Considering the last one was seen 1000 years ago, it was quite a highlight for our young generation!
False Mopane and Zambezi Teak appear to be the only trees resilient enough to withstand the colder temperatures and proudly display their green foliage amongst the surrounding tones of brown, tan, khaki and yellow. The abundance of dry grass carpeting the plains could be a potential fire hazard this season, which our pans seem well prepared for! The bush is brittle and thinning out gradually as awesome herds of buffalo and elephants plough and mow through the desiccated maze of moisture less vegetation. Seas of skeletal dried wild hibiscus will hopefully be eradicated in the process, as they are making the landscape look rather unkempt.
Some of our guests had the privilege of experiencing the big six all in one day, plus wild dogs and honey badgers thrown in for good measure! Our most memorable sighting of the month was that of a very relaxed rhino cow and calf captured at Little Mbiza amongst the tall golden grass in the soft light just before sunset. Foster and his guests did an approach on a male rhino whilst on a walk at Mbiza and everyone found that rather exhilarating! Leopard sightings are improving drastically and most of them have been close encounters! Most sightings have been on the way back into camp from evening game drives and have been on the road which junctions the road to our compound - obviously, this is a young male clambering around familiar territory which is being seen on a regular basis!
Wild dogs have once again hit the headlines as our resident pack of 5 has been sighted hunting and killing both impala and kudu at Ngweshla. One misty morning, we heard the cry of a young animal in front of tent 9, and upon investigation, discovered the dogs devouring the body a young kudu cow. After eating their full, they sunned themselves at the pan in front of camp for a few hours.
During an evening of dinner table conversation, our guides debated the size of honey badgers! It was very ironic that on the following morning's transfer to the airstrip, a honey badger was nearly flattened when it ran onto the road in front of the vehicle! That same evening, a pair of honey badgers was seen at Somavundla and apparently this had been the best honey badger sighting for Doug Kew. After having not seen honey badgers in our concession for some time, as well as the guides contesting whose size was more accurate, it made for fantastic first hand experience for our guests!
Lion sightings have been poor, due to the fact that our former resident pride now belongs to Linkwasha! Apparently the new male in or concession (aka Vuka) has been lingering around Little Mak. Though his spoor has been seen on the road on several occasions, he himself has been extremely elusive but Lion Research has confirmed that he is definitely in the Little Mak area. On an evening drive to Mbiza, game drive guests and guides discovered the fresh carcass of a young collared lioness. The remains were brought back to camp for research purposes and it is believed that the 18 month old lioness was killed by the eight young male cubs that are part of the pride prowling around Linkwasha, intending on forming their own coalition/s. Foster recovered the skull from this young lioness and has put it on display in our living area!
Elephant and buffalo activity have been outstanding! Elephants are congregating in large herds around various mineral licks and water holes and are still amazing our guests with their frequent visits to the swimming pool for a quick drink. Valentine awed guests on an afternoon drive with the sighting of a baby buffalo that had been born just minutes before! They witnessed the mother buffalo eating the after birth!
Some good probability sightings for the month have been as follows: 100% for elephant, giraffe, impala, black-backed jackal, springhare, wildebeest and zebra. Aardwolf 3%, bat-eared fox 13%, lesser bush baby 3%, bush buck 3%, buffalo 87%, caracal 3%, cheetah 7%, eland 27%, genet 7%, honey badger 7%, hyaena 7%, hunting dog 10%, side-striped jackal 43%, kudu 53%, leopard 20%, lion 17%, rhino 13%, roan 13% and wildcat 3%.
Red-billed francolins have topped the charts this month with their breeding behaviour! We are seeing new little clutches of chicks running around camp almost on a weekly basis! Twice during the month, the guinea fowls in front of camp have had close encounters with a Martial Eagle! One morning the guinea fowls went into a raucous flutter as a Martial swooped down onto the flustered flock and connected with a guinea fowl in mid-flight! Fortunately for the guinea fowl it was a near miss and it escaped unscathed, bar a few feathers which we retrieved for display purposes! The second time it happened, the guinea fowls had wisened up to the Martial's tactics and made for the trees! A little banded goshawk was seen drinking in the bird bath outside the dining area on a very cold winter's morning. We spotted a juvenile crowned crane waking across the plains at Ngweshla with both parents. We were rather excited with this finding because it proved that our familiar friends' nest had withstood the abundance of water during the rainy season and they had a young one to prove it!
Makalolo Plains is situated in a remote area within the vast Hwange National Park and is one of the few camps built within the Park. Hwange is legendary for its wonderful array of wildlife and massive herds of Elephant and Buffalo - especially in the dryer winter months.
There are excellent opportunities to view game from open 4x4 vehicles during the early morning and late afternoon, when game is most active. Foot safaris are also offered, and are accompanied by an armed professional guide. The camp is set in a unique location, overlooking the Samavundhla Pan - which attracts game in good concentrations.
The entire camp is raised on wooden boardwalks and platforms, giving guests excellent views over the waterhole and floodplain in front of the camp. Accommodation consists of nine large, comfortable tented rooms with en-suite shower, toilet and basin - all with hot and cold running water.
There is an outdoor shower for those who enjoy showering under the stars. The lighting in the rooms is battery powered - ensuring peace and quiet in camp. Meals are enjoyed in the separate raised dining area.
There is also a lounge, pub and plunge pool. The camp has hides overlooking the waterhole, which allow guests to enjoy close up game viewing.
Summer sees the large antelope herds migrate onto the plains, closely followed by their predators. Elephants, Buffalo, Sable, Roan, Giraffe, Wildebeest, Impala and sometimes even Gemsbok can be seen here. The area is one of the best for predators - Lion, Leopard, Wild Dog and Cheetah are regularly sighted, along with the smaller African Wild Cat, Serval, Honey Badger, Civet and Hyena. The area has a number of waterholes which attract game in large concentrations, especially during the winter months. Guests can sit at a waterhole and watch the passing parade of animals as they come to quench their thirst. For the bird watcher, Makalolo offers a wonderful range of birding, from Miombo species right through to the Kalahari species.
LOCATION
o Situated in the South Eastern section of Hwange National Park on a private concession.
PRICING
High Season: 1 July - 31 October
Low Season: 1 January - 30 June and November/December
ACCOMMODATION
There are nine tents consisting of:
Seven twin bedded tents (can be set up as double beds if required)
One honeymoon tent, and one tour leader or guest tent.
This camp can accommodate 16 guests and one tour leader or 18 guests, if all in one group, with tour leader in basic staff accommodation.
Sold to a maximum of 16 guests on a FIT basis
Tent details:
o Luxury tents raised off the ground on teak decking
o En-suite bathrooms within tents with showers
o Fans
o Tents have outside showers
o Honeymoon tent has an outside bath
o Wooden doors, and no zips
o Mosquito proof
o Gas radiator heaters in winter months
o Soaps, shampoos and insect repellents are supplied in each room
CAMP DESCRIPTION
The camp is built on a raised teak platform under thatch overlooking the Somavundhla plain, and set in a stand of teak trees.
o Telescope for on-deck viewing
o Plunge pool on raised deck
o Curio shop
o Conference facilities available on request, if group books out whole camp o Dining room, lounge and pub are thatched
o Library
o Game viewing platform
o Bunker hide in pan in front of camp
GAME VIEWING
There are Lion, large herds of Elephant, Buffalo, Hyena, Giraffe, Sable, Wildebeest, Impala, Waterbuck and Reed Buck.
The highlight here is the large open plains, where one can see large quantities of animals. Summer game viewing is excellent with Wildebeest, Zebra and Eland found in abundance on the plains. In winter the water holes are magnets for Elephant and on some days each water hole can get up to 1000 Elephants coming down to drink.
ACTIVITIES
o Game drives in 2x7-seater and 2x9-seater vehicles (wind-resistant ponchos are provided during winter months)
o Walking safaris with armed professional guide
o Bunker hide underground in front of camp next to waterholes
o Hides in the trees overlooking waterhole
SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE
Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.
summer/winter
05h00/06h00 - Wake Up
05h30/06h30 - Light breakfast
06h00/07h00 - Game drive, canoeing, boating, walk with drinks and snacks
10h30/11h00 - Brunch/lunch
- Option to rest or sit at hides
15h30/15h30 - Afternoon tea
16h00/16h00 - Game drive / walk with drinks and snacks
20h00/20h00 - Dinner under the stars or under thatch
ELECTRICITY & WATER
o Camp has 220v generator-powered electricity, power is stored in 12v batteries which power the lights and fans in the rooms
o Video camera batteries can be charged while out on a game drive
o Water for showers etc is heated by solar power
DRINKS POLICY
All drinks are included in the nightly tariff, except for imported champagne and hard to obtain drinks such as Bourbon.
LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service, weather permitting, included in the nightly tariff.
EXTRAS PAYMENT
Curios and/or tips/gratuities will be billed to the tent number and settled on check-out. Payment can be made in cash (US$), travellers' cheques and Visa or MasterCard credit cards.
If guests wish to tip, our recommended tipping schedule is as follows:
Guides - US$5.00 per person per day
General camp staff - US$3.00 per person per day
Specialist guides (if applicable) - US$10.00 per person per day. This is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards.
FLYING TIMES
to/from Hwange Airport - 20 minutes
Victoria Falls to the camp's strip - 55 minutes
Makalolo to Giraffe Springs - 30 minutes
AIR STRIP DETAILS
Linkwasha airstrip is located 30 minutes' drive from camp.
Air strip co-ordinates: S19.07.93, E27.12.79
1000m long, grass strip, can take King Airs 90's, provided that they have high flotation landing gear.
HEALTH
There are a few basic health matters that require care and attention. We are obviously not medical practitioners and the following points are recommended guidelines only. Please consult your doctor and also check with your health department prior to departure for any changes in health regulations.
a) Malaria
Malaria within South Africa's borders is only prevalent in a few areas. It is encountered mainly in northern and eastern Mpumalanga, northern Kwa-Zulu Natal, and the border areas of the Northern and North West Provinces. Malaria is also common in the lower lying areas of Swaziland. It can also be found throughout Mozambique and Zimbabwe, and much of Botswana. Northern Namibia is also a malaria area. Should you be visiting these areas malaria precautions are advised.
Malaria transmission is at its highest during the warmer and wetter months of November through to April. From May through to October the risks of acquiring malaria are reduced.
The malaria parasite requires a human host in order to complete its life cycle. In most cases, our camps are situated in remote, unpopulated areas, so the chances of contracting malaria are very slim. Nonetheless, it is worth taking preventative measures.
Both chloroquine-resistant and normal strains of malaria are prevalent in Africa. Malaria is transmitted by a very small percentage of female Anopheles mosquitoes. They are only active in the early evening and throughout the night, at the times when one is usually sleeping or sitting around the campfire.
MALARIA prophylactic recommendations for southern African travellers:
Expert opinion differs regarding the best approach to malaria prophylaxis. It is important to bear in mind that malaria may be contracted despite chemoprophylaxis, especially in areas where chloroquine resistance has been reported. Please remember that the best insurance is the preventative kind: avoid being bitten by using mosquito repellents liberally. Wear long-sleeved shirts and trousers/slacks in the evenings. If staying in a bungalow or tent, spray with an insecticide like DOOM to kill any mosquitoes that may have flown into your room. Mosquito coils are effective.
If you become ill on your return, while still on prophylaxis or even once you have stopped taking them, ensure that your doctor does everything to establish that your illness is not malaria.
Malaria is not a serious problem if you are sensible and take basic precautions. There have been very few cases of our guests contracting malaria during our 19 years to date, of operation.
b) Water
It is very important that you drink plenty of water especially during the warmer months. It is generally recommended that guests drink at least 2 to 3 litres (4 to 6 pints) of water per day to limit the effects of dehydration. This excludes tea, coffee and alcoholic beverages, which act as diuretics and can actually contribute to dehydration.
Generally, water throughout Southern Africa is safe to drink directly from the tap. However, bottled water is readily available, so please do not allow yourself to become dehydrated.
c) Other Health Issues
There are no other health issues that one needs to be overly concerned with.
GUESTS COMMENTS
"Thank you for making our 40th anniversary celebration so very memorable! We had the most incredible guide spottings - just unbelievable! We definitely will spread the word about how wonderful game and staff are!" BARB & JIM GIFFORD, WISCONSIN, USA
"Thank you Foster, Tendai and Shelley for a wonderful time here at Makalolo. We loved all the personal attention and friendly atmosphere here. Yay for the walking safari - right up to that big white rhino! I'm sure some of our best photographs and best memories will be from you guys here!" THE HEARD FAMILY, WASHINGTON DC, USA
"Thanks so much to all for a wonderful and heart warming experience here! It's a magical place full of very special moments. Can't think of a place I'd rather be". DENISE LANDAU, COLORADO, USA
Hakuna Mutata from all at Makalolo!
*`�*-.,_,.-*`�*-.,_,.-*�
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.
Safari Field Reports
About The VacationTechnician Company
The VacationTechnician Company Conservation Campaign
Plan a Linkwasha Safari with vacationtechnician.com
Linkwasha Safari Report - June 2004
June has brought us a bit of everything as far as weather is concerned. The beginning of the month was freezing, our lowest temp being 2 deg C at 7 o'clock in the morning!!! Towards the middle of the month some cloud blew in from the south. This certainly warmed things up for us at night and early in the morning. The last half of the month the days generally started off with a cold breeze coming in from the south east and cloudy to begin with. Most clouds would have dissipated by midday. Our highest temp for the month was 27 deg C.
The Linkwasha concession looks in fine shape. The bush is full of colour now with the various trees leaves starting to turn, especially the bright yellow of the Ordeals behind camp. The grass on the plains in front of camp still fairly long and although mostly golden brown there are still a few patches of green grass. The plains at Ngamo have been well grazed by all the Wildebeest and Zebra but a good amount of grass still remains. Waterholes are all looking good and the unpumped natural holes still have good amounts of water.
Despite the constant change in the weather here this month, especially with the cold wind, our species total for this month stood at an impressive 38! Our daily average was 19,5 species and on our best day 23 species were seen.
The Bat Eared Foxes are all coming out just after midday now to escape the cold nights and mornings, and we regularly have a group of 6 feeding on the plains in front of camp.
Aardwolf have been seen on 3 occasions this month, twice near camp and the other from Back Pans. It seems the one near camp is becoming very relaxed with the vehicles now enabling guests to get a good view of this rare nocturnal mammal. Huge herds of Buffalo are now starting to reappear at the waterholes and are all in great condition. Most herds have a good number of young in them.
The big Eland herds have moved off the plains now and remaining are a few small herds of bulls. Elephants made a huge come back at the beginning of the month and we were starting to have them drink out of the swimming pool regularly at night. As soon as the cloudy weather blew in the bigger herds moved off.
Most of the Elephant sightings have been of small breeding herds or bulls. We darted and removed a snare from a 3 year old calf at Ostrich Pan on the 27th. All went well and the calf was seen again in the herd and doing well on the 30th near Back Pans.
Ngamo has been amazing this month for Giraffe where we have sighted some herds in excess of 20 animals. Hyaenas have been very vocal at night around camp and on one evening we were disturbed at the fire by some chasing Wildebeest right through the camp.
The young male Leopard is still patrolling the boardwalks in camp and one often picks up his sandy tracks on the concrete of the main building. One night guests driving back to tent # 9 & 10 spent about 15 minutes with him as he climbed into a Leadwood on the lookout for Spinghare. Lion sightings this month have been very good. We have been spending good time with the pride of 10 and also with the huge Black Maned chap who comes through to check that all's in order with his ladies. We spent a whole morning with the pride at Back Pans as they chased and harassed a troop of baboons for about 30 minutes before tuning their focus on a small herd of Buffalo coming down to drink. We positioned the vehicles on some raised ground and then patiently sat and watched as they stalked the grazing Buffalo. They approached the Buffalo from three different directions and after 45 minutes one young male started the charge. The Buffalo scattered in all directions and after 5 minutes of what seemed like total chaos 3 young males and a young lioness separated a cow from the herd. They jumped onto its back trying to bite the spine and only once the forth lion jumped on its back did it actually go to ground. As they are inexperienced hunters at this stage they were not able to kill the Buffalo and all the bellowing attracted the attention of the now gathered herd. They rushed back, charging, and chased the lions off the shocked cow. She was up in a second and staggered back, amazed at the change of events, into the safety of the herd. While all this was happening one of the adult lionesses killed a small calf that had also been separated. In a short space of time she too was driven off the carcass and the Buffalo would not let he lions feed for over an hour as they guarded the dead calf. All this happened within 30 yards of the vehicle and completely out in the open, a truly awesome experience!
Sightings of the Rhino have been great. He seems to do circuits of the concession and his favorite hang outs are in front of camp, Scotts Pan, Back Pans and Ngamo. We have had no further sightings of the cow with her calf.
Our sighting percentages for this month are : Aardwolf 13%, Bat Eared Fox 87% , Buffalo 83% , Eland 43% ,Elephants 100% , Giraffe 100% , Spotted Hyaena 43% , Leopard 13% , Lion 40% , White Rhino 33% and Sable 73%.
Birding Linkwasha
This months total was 137 species. The pair of Wattled Cranes which arrived late last month are still at Ngamo and with all the water still there are plenty of water birds hanging around on the fringes of the pans. Other interesting sightings were 8 Painted Snipe feeding together at the main pan, the pair of White-backed Ducks in the Hippo pool with ducklings, a White-headed Vulture on a nest near Scotts Pan, Arnot's Chats in the False Mopane Forrest at Ostrich Pan, A Southern Boubou at Ngamo in the Acacia Woodland and a female Cape Shovellor at Ngamo Pan.
Linkwasha Camp is divided into two luxury tented camps - one with seven tents, and the other with three. Linkwasha is situated in a private concession area within Hwange National Park. The area includes many diverse habitats, including Kalahari savannah, acacia woodlands, as well as palm islands and teak forests.
This habitat diversity attracts many different animal populations and over 400 species of birds. The area is known for its big game, particularly the predators, as well as large herds of Elephants and Buffalo during the winter months. Summer months offer a complete contrast, as many of the plains-game (and their predators) migrate to this section of the park to enjoy the lush grazing on the open savannah. Game drives in open 4x4 vehicles, hides and guided walks form part of the Linkwasha experience.
The tented rooms, built under thatch, are large and comfortable. Each room has en-suite facilities including a shower, basin, and flush toilet - and an outdoor shower. A raised walkway links the rooms, the lounge and dining room. Each room overlooks an expansive plain in front of camp - so different species of game can be sighted on the savannah.
NOTED GAME VIEWING
The area is known during our winter months for its big game, in particular large concentrations of Elephant and Buffalo. Lion, Leopard, Cheetah and Hyena are regulars, and their prey includes all the plains game. Roan and Sable are seen in the woodlands. Birdlife is abundant and diverse. During the summer, after the first rains, we see a large influx of the plains game - Eland, Zebra, Giraffe and Wildebeest arrive in large concentrations to feed off the new grasses and shrubs on the plains, closely followed by their predators.
LOCATION
o The camps are situated within the South Eastern section of Hwange National Park on a private concession bordering onto Makalolo Plain's concession in Zimbabwe.
PRICING
High Season: 1 July - 31 October
Low Season: 1 January - 30 June and November/December
Camp Descriptions
There are two camps next to each other. A three-roomed camp and a seven-roomed camp, which means we can accommodate 6,14 or 20 guests.
Linkwasha Camp Main:
There are seven tents in total consisting of:
six twin bedded tents
One honeymoon tent with outside bath
This camp can accommodate 14 guests.
Little Linkwasha Camp:
Three tents in total consisting of:
Two twin bedded tents
One honeymoon tent with outside bath
This camp can accommodate six guests.
Tour leader accommodation is in staff area, with shared bathroom
Tent details:
o En-suite bathrooms in tent
o Outdoor showers
o Fans
o Mosquito proof
o Wooden doors
o Luxury tents under thatch
o Gas radiator heaters in the winter months
o Soaps, shampoos and insect repellents are supplied in each room
CAMP DESCRIPTION
o Slightly raised decks under thatch
o Plunge pool in each camp
o Fantastic views across the floodplains and waterhole
o Curio shop
o Library
o Outdoor boma for dinner under the stars as well as regular dining room under thatch
GAME VIEWING
Lion, large herds of Elephant, Buffalo, Hyena, Giraffe, Sable, Wildebeest, Impala, Waterbuck, Reed Buck.
The large open plains allow one to see large quantities of animals. Summer game viewing is excellent with Wildebeest, Zebra and Eland found in abundance on the plains. In winter the water holes are magnets for Elephant and on some days each water hole can get up to 1000 Elephants coming down to drink.
ACTIVITIES
o Game drives in 3x7 and 1x9-seater 4x4 landrovers
o Walking safaris with an armed professional guide
o Hides
o Wind and water resistant ponchos are provided for game drives
SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE
Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.
summer/winter
05h00/06h00 - Wake Up
05h30/06h30 - Light breakfast
06h00/07h00 - Game drive, canoeing, boating, walk with drinks & snacks
10h30/11h00 - Brunch/lunch
- Option to rest or sit at hides
15h30/15h30 - Afternoon tea
16h00/16h00 - Game drive / walk with drinks and snacks
20h00/20h00 - Dinner under the stars or under thatch
ELECTRICITY & WATER
o Camp has 220v generator-powered electricity, power is stored in 12v batteries which power the lights and fans in the rooms
o Video camera batteries can be charged while on a game drive
o Water for showers etc is heated by solar power
DRINKS POLICY
All drinks are included in the nightly tariff, except for imported champagne and hard to obtain drinks such as Bourbon.
LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service, weather permitting, included in the nightly tariff.
EXTRAS PAYMENT
Curios and/or tips/gratuities will be billed to the tent number and settled on check-out. Payment can be made by cash (US$), travellers' cheques, and Visa or MasterCard credit cards.
If guests wish to tip, our recommended tipping schedule is as follows:
Guides - US$5.00 per person per day
General camp staff - US$3.00 per person per day
Specialist guides (if applicable) - US$10.00 per person per day. This is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards.
FLYING TIMES
to/from Victoria Falls - 50-60 minutes
to/from Hwange airport - 20 minutes
Makalolo to Giraffe Springs - 30 minutes
AIR STRIP DETAILS
Linkwasha airstrip is located 45 minutes' drive from camp.
Linkwasha airstrip co-ordinates: S 19.07.93, E 027.11.79
1000m long, grass strip, can take King Airs 90's, provided that they have high flotation landing gear.
GUEST COMMENTS
P.S & S.S - CT - USA - "Thank you for the Rhino and the Lions. We were charmed by the peaceful surroundings and the troubles of the world seemed to vanish! Wish all people were able to experience this "wild" life!"
A.B - CA - USA - "What a wonderful time and super guides. Best sunset pictures ever!"
K.D & D.D - WA - USA - "FANTASTIC! INCREDIBLE! A piece of heaven!! Great rooms, incredible food and warm and hospitable hosts. We could not have wished for more. It has met our expectations in every way!"
*`�*-.,_,.-*`�*-.,_,.-*�
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.
Safari Field Reports
About The VacationTechnician Company
The VacationTechnician Company Conservation Campaign
Plan a Jacana Safari with vacationtechnician.com
The reports from Botswana's Chobe sightings are great as usual. Guests were fortunate enough to see wild dogs, as well as a herd of Roan antelope. Their bird list was well into the 40's even though it was only their first day. The second day was as lively as the first and they had some amazing encounters with Chobes many elephants.
Linyanti also proved to be fantastic - we came across loads of Roan antelope , Giraffe, Zebra, Warthog as well as Hippo's. We watched a baby elephant splashing around in the mud having a great time. Great photo opportunities for the guests.
We also managed to find two pairs of lusty lions. The first pair were gracious enough to let us watch them in the act, whilst the other two seemed to be having a bit of a lovers tiff and were giving each other the cold shoulder.
That evening we took a small night drive, and managed to get a brief look at a leopard who was running with a baboon in its mouth. That following day we went for a mekoro canoe excursion, where we saw many letchwe, sable bill storks, and elephants. The canoe trip is always a big highlight for vacationtechnician guests and something different to being in the vehicle.
Back at camp we caught sight of two lions lying on their side, they allowed us to watched them for a while, but then got a little irratated by us and got up and began roaring, the booming shock wave left our guests speechless and wide eyed.
At Kaparota, we decided to leave the vehicle behind and go for a walk, we found a dead buffalo accompanied by several lion paw prints. That night we saw quite a few hyena and also the kubu pride who didn't do to much of anything except lounge around. The next day we came across a massive herd of buffalo which could have easily totaled up to 1000 individuals. That evening we found a genet that was in full view, as well as leopard, probably the nicest few of elephant that we had throughout the entire trip, it was a truly awesome sight.
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Kwara camp
* Good viewing two days ago of a pride of 3 males, 2 females and 3 cubs\
* Evening viewing of a female leopard hunting impala near Tsum Tsum � she was unsuccessful.
* Numerous groups of bachelor herds of elephants
* Large groups of Zebras and Wildebeest.
* Nigh-time viewing of Aardwolf as well as African Wild Cat, Civet and Serval
* Cheetah viewing for a couple of days � adult female with 2 cubs
* Nomadic hyena sighted frequently, but no active dens yet.
* Sighting of a python late last week.
* Excellent water birds in front of the camp and in the marshes including Saddle-billed storks, Wattled Cranes, Egrets, as well as Spur-wing and Egyptian Geese.
* The water is right in front of the camp.
Lagoon camp
* A male leopard was followed at night � it stalked and killed a springhare.
* Lagoon pride (3 females and 4 cubs) seem feeding on an impala that they had filched from Wild dogs.
* A young male cheetah was spotted by on of the Lagoon staff as it was walking past the lounge on the guest pathway.
* Large numbers of both buffalo (one herd exceeding 1000) and elephant sighted on drive as winter game-viewing gets into full swing.
* The lagoon pride 3 lionesses and 4 cubs were watched feeding on a giraffe.
* 3 roan antelope
* African wild cat, caracal, a group of 6 bat-eared foxes foraging as well as an Aardwolf basking in the sun
* General game sightings have been excellent � zebra, wildebeest, impala and giraffe
Lebala camp
* Large numbers of elephant in herds ranging from 50 � 100 strong are coming down to the river adjacent to camp daily.
* 3 herds of buffalo up to 400 strong are being seen regularly on drive
* Regular sightings of a pride of 7 lions with cubs � they killed a giraffe between Lebala and Lagoon Camps.
* 2 sightings of cheetah including a Male chasing and killing a scrub hare.
* Male leopard seen regularly around camp as well as a fem stalking but missing an Aardvark
* 4 python sightings in 2 days as well as sightings of a cobra and a puffadder � getting in a last feed before winter.
* Wild dogs � the Selinda pack of 14 spending some time in the southern traversing as well as regular sightings of the Lebala pack of 5 with the pregnant Alpha Female.
* 2 active hyena dens, 4 adults with 9 cubs and 12 adults with 2 cubs seem nightly.
* good sightings of zebra, wildebeest and giraffe with night-time sightings of honeybadger, Serval hunting, Civet, African Wild Cat and Bushbaby.
* Ground hornbills having been seen flying over the camp several times and have been heard most mornings.
To learn more about Botswana safaris with vacationtechnician.com click these links:
Botswana Safari Reports
Botswana Safari Guides
Kwando
Okavango Delta
Luxury Okavango Delta Safari Camps
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Last night we had a fantastic sighting at the Ongava Tented Camp in the Etosha National Park, Namibia watering hole, it happened right in front of the lapa.
Straight after dinner at about 21h00, ten lions surrounded the water hole, very thirsty indeed. After they quenched their thirst, two of the lions walked in between the tents, the rest made their bed next to the water hole besides the trees. The guests sat and watched them for about an hour. Hein then escorted all the guests to their tents.
We heard the roaring of these beautiful creatures the entire night.
The next morning at 5 'o clock the entire camp got a wake-up call. The waitress, Magda put on the lights at the lapa when a lion lying in front of the lapa charged her, luckily Jan the scullery guy, was standing behind her and pulled off a bare-banger.
Needless to say the whole camp woke up instantly. NJ, the guide, and Hein charged down to the lapa immediately to investigate. The lions casually left the camp area allowing the guests to be put at ease before being escorted to the lapa. What an extremely exciting 12 hours!
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Chitabe Trails Safari Report
Dear Friends,
As the rest of Botswana's Okavango Delta experiences the inundation of an early flood and a late deluge, rising and falling with the ebb and flow of an ancient rhythm of life-giving waters, Chitabe remains but a distant goal in the timeless history of the surging waters' memory- when once the island was completely encircled by water, we await the marvels of this phenomenon again.
The climate has settled into an autumn chill- clear bright skies, with chilly evenings and mornings. The average temperatures have altered somewhat dramatically, with highs around 29 degrees and lows around 12 degrees Celsius. We huddle around the fire for early morning breakfasts, tucking into bowls of Ben's delicious hot porridge as the dawn chorus of Swamp Bou Bous, Meyer's Parrots and Starlings welcome the sunrise.
The African Marula Trees have provided a feast for our local fauna- baboons, squirrels, elephants and resident humans have been indulging in the delicious fruit, which have covered the ground below their magnificent boughs.
The bushbuck ewe that calls Chitabe Trails island home has dropped, and she and her lamb are often seen picking their delicate way through the vegetation. She has particularly beautiful markings, and her offspring is a gorgeous carbon copy of her�
At the outlying pans, Saddlebill Storks, Wattled Cranes, Spurwing, Pygmy and Egyptian geese, Pied Kingfishers and Blackwinged Stilts are delighting in the abundance of water- a birder's paradise!
A fond farewell to our migrant species of feathered friends, who have finally headed north- apart from one woodland kingfisher who seemed to have lost his compass, or enjoyed our company so much that he left a few weeks after all the rest had gone.
On our eastern boundary, the once mighty Gomoti channel has risen again from a long period of drought, risen and fallen, the water claimed by the thirsty sands of the Kalahari below. Hippo have moved into the area after a long absence, and their calls reverberate into the African night, competing with the mighty roars of the four massive Gomoti lions, as they have been named, who have also recently appeared from the Moremi area.
Our resident coalition of male lions in the Chitabe sandbelt area have developed an interesting adaptation. Previously being buffalo specialists, they would bring one down almost every week, but now since the buff have not been in the area for some time, they have begun killing giraffe on a semi-regular basis, and have even brought down the occasional juvenile elephant.
The lioness that brought her cubs into the relative safety of the camp has moved her brood off- after she introduced them to her former pride-mate and her year-old cub. We were all mesmerised by the meeting, which took place in the middle of the day right in front of the camp. Before she left, the Warrs from the UK were treated to the sight of her calling out and suckling her cubs right outside their tent!
Ebineng was out on the Gomoti when he spotted three lionesses stalking a buffalo. One completed her final charge and was able to leap onto its back. With her sisters bring up the rear, the buffalo thundered away and into the channel, sending up plumes of spray in all directions. When Ebs and his guests were again able to see clearly, the buffalo was making off on the other side of the floodplain, leaving a disappointed-looking lioness on the other side of the water!
We have had a sighting of a lactating female cheetah in the area, which would be a pretty good indicator of cubs being somewhere nearby- although we haven't seen them yet, the grasses are still very high, but just starting to turn to a tinge of autumnal dun. Later in the month they will begin to flatten and die down, affording us better viewing opportunities.
Leopard sightings have been good, and there are at least six in the area close to camp- occasionally we hear the large male who lives in the island alongside give his unmistakable rasping call, sending the baboons into a fury of shouts and roars. Relax has also spotted a lactating female in the acacia woodland, so hopefully we might spot her cub or cubs soon!
Speaking of cats, vacationtechnician clients saw a young female caracal on sunset road, which was a truly memorable experience, as they are extremely shy and hard to spot.
The Moonstone Pack of six wild dogs have been sighted several times this month- and although they are a small and raggedy pack in comparison to the larger Mogogelo pack, they are doing well, hunting impala successfully in the sweet-grass areas of mopane woodland. We are expecting a litter from them in July, when they will form a den- this should hopefully swell their numbers somewhat�
The walking season is upon us again, and we have walkers out there almost every day, soaking in the wonders of being on foot out there in our glorious wilderness. This is an experience enriched by encountering things one would not normally notice from a noisy moving vehicle- the engagement of all of the senses (including some that have no name), revelling in your body, at one with the majesties of creation that surround you. Sleeping out in the hide, serenaded by the plinking sounds of the reed frogs, listening to the whoops of hyena giggling at their own private jokes, and hippos chortling to themselves in the channels is an experience few will ever forget.
The sunsets have transformed once again into their winter splendour- the sky is like the inside of a cobalt Faberge egg as the golden orb of the sun sinks us into another star-studded African night. Listening to the chirrups of the scops owls and the warbling lament of the nightjars as we sit around the fire of an evening reminds us all what a special and wondrous place Chitabe is, and we invite you to share the joys both great and small of simply being here.
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Client Comments
Ora and Michael Singer (New York)- " Ben was and amazing, outstanding guide who was very aware of what we had and had not seen, and chose our route accordingly!"
Fred and Gill Schwab (UK)- " The friendliness, warmth and hospitality here are the very best. Staying here is like staying with friends. A big thank you to everybody."
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Dear Friends,
I share with you an extraordinary event that took place on Monday, May 10, 2004, as we were navigating from Puerto Egas, James Island towards Bartolom� Island. Our First Officer and Expedition Staff noticed the presence of cetacean activity along the horizon, and once near the sighting area they were looking at Orca Whales (Orcinus orca), unfortunately, also called Killer Whales.
The Captain authorized to slow down the ship's speed, and to lower our Zodiac landing craft. The environmental sensitivity, skill, support and enthusiasm shown by our staff is a key element in achieving unique wilderness experiences. Afterwards, and for over an hours time, vacationtechnician guests enjoyed spectacular views of one of the world's most amazing marine mammals.
Once in the water, the Expedition Team, led by Chief Naturalist Alejandro Villa, carefully approached this pod of whales, which included three females and one male. Males are larger than females, and have a dorsal fin twice the size of those of females. An ecologically-sound approach generated an extended contact with the whales. With the advantage of having digital photographic equipment, Alejandro documented the event, gathering vast material in both photos and video. One-of-a-kind material for our graphic marketing efforts, training, web page, and of course on board lectures and presentations!
And so, life continues its determined course in the Gal�pagos Islands. Our guests will return home with a vivid image of this extraordinary event, and without a doubt, will recommend this destination and our services. It is this kind of events that provide magic to these islands, and to vacationtechnician Expedition Philosophy.
When was the last time you saw Orca Whales in the wild? Gal�pagos waits for you.
vacationtechnician.com Nature Reading
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."
Mark Tennant
Mark has been a guide in Botswana and helped to developed our guide training and wildlife experience for the first 5 years.
His passion for birds and the African wilderness developed while he worked for the Vulture Study Group in the early 1980's. In 1991 he decided to move permanently into the bush where he worked at Phinda in Northern Zululand. As part of the team he was involved in staff training and worked developing the guest experience there.
Mark is a professional photographer and his work has earned him a number of international photographic awards. Coupled with his intimate knowledge of animal behaviour, he is regularly called upon by international film crews to assist in the production of wildlife documentaries. He has been the subject of a TV series as well.
Besides wildlife, photography and birds, Mark is a knowledgeable about frogs and butterflies. These interests and background makes him a highly informative and entertaining guide.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
The distances between camps were so great we had to cover them in what is called a 'light aircraft', but which is more like a biscuit tin with a propeller.
Those with a fear of flying should not attempt this trip.
After an hour of bumping around, a thousand feet above the Botswana scrubvelt, our lawn mower with wings was angled at 45 degrees to scare the elephants off the dirt airstrip before we circled again at a stomach-churning angle into a buffeting descent against the rising midday hot air currents. Finally, we crunched down into Kwando in the Chobe conservation area.
My son had been sick into a leaky paper bag, his friend was shaking his head saying: 'Never again, I will never go in a small plane ever again in my life.' (We only had five more booked on our itinerary.) My travelling companion, the only other adult apart from the pilot - an Aussie woman with attitude - was sitting sobbing, head between legs.
My hands were trembling and sweating, and although it had taken us nearly three days' flying to get here via Johannesburg, Victoria Falls and Kasane, I fully intended to reschedule our entire holiday and get us all out by any route possible rather than go up in one of those things again, even if it meant a 10-week trek across the desert with oxen.
We unloaded ourselves and got into an open-top Jeep to bounce off past termite mounds, vultures, and about 150 curious elephants. Antelope and giraffe darted out of the way as we careered through dust tracks at speed to avoid sinking into the sand. It was bloody hot. This was not Disney, this was real and it was difficult not to feel that we had entered a dream.
In fact, what we were seeing was so strange and so wondrous that within three minutes my son was saying, 'This is the best holiday of my life, ever', his friend was saying, 'I hope we never leave here', and my adult companion, having made an apparently instant recovery, was insisting we set off immediately on the night drive to see if we could find the hyenas which were evidently gnawing over a recent cheetah kill somewhere off to our left through a thorny thicket.
To get anywhere this good, this interesting, this mind-blowing, maybe you have to suffer a bit. If it were easy to get to, it wouldn't be the thousands of square miles of unspoilt wilderness choking with wildlife and natural history that it is.
In your average safari park they take you down well-trodden routes to the game, which might be a few scrawny lions which have already appeared in a thousand home videos and know which is their best profile.
Botswana is the last true wilderness of Africa, and apart from the Okavango Delta, it's mostly flat and dry. We divided our trip between Chobe, which is a savannah full of bushes, trees and more wildlife than a David Attenborough documentary, and the Makgadikgadi Pans (pronounced ma-caddy-caddy), a desert made of salt where the horizon is so wide you can see the Earth's curve.
Our accommodation was large, old-style khaki tents with bucket showers and hanging canvas wash baskets. By day it was ridiculously hot and at night it was Dartmoor cold. The dusty wind let up for about an hour a day.
Apart from the food, which was really good at both camps, we were away from our usual comforts and soon realized that this was going to be a trip which would register highly on the strength-of-character scale.
In Botswana, as our guide explained, you are in a wilderness and you go out in the early morning and after sundown with a high-powered torch to see what you can find.
As it happened, during our three days at Kwando we were outrageously lucky and saw just about everything that Nature could chuck at us: basking hippos, a herd of shy zebra, every kind of antelope, two cheetah dragging their full bellies to the shade, a leopard running off with a dead baboon in its mouth being chased out of the area by 50 or so live ones, hyenas, jackals, wildebeest, buffalo, wart hogs and enough species of exotic bird to make an ornithologist twitch.
There was also an untapped stream of information from our guide about the way Nature works in the bush; how the acacia tree has evolved in tandem with the giraffe; why the leadwood tree stays standing for 50 years after it has died. The school field trip will never be the same for the children.
There were two guides on the Jeep, one driving and telling us about the landscape, the other, a lookout with awesome eyesight, sat on a small seat on the bonnet. (Kwando Only)
Occasionally, Lets, our lookout (tracker), would leave his perch and come and sit in the back seats with us.
This was when we were approaching the more dangerous animals, and was presumably to avoid him looking like the angry horns of the large Toyota beast.
We quickly learned to listen very carefully to Mr Fish, our guide at Kwando, not just because his knowledge was encyclopaedic, but also in order to avoid being speared, eaten or nibbled at by Nature.
'Don't turn your back on a lion, it will see you as prey' is more than an interesting or academic titbit when you are 15ft away from a mother lion whose cubs are gambolling towards you, and she is making a noise like a giant motorcycle turning over at four times less than its maximum potential.
By the end of the first day we were hanging on his every word. The boys were captivated; here was a real life Ace Ventura.
There were dents and a tusk-sized hole in the side of the Jeep where an elephant had recently skewered it when another guide had mistakenly thought he was showing his guests an example of a 'mock charge'.
We soon realized we were completely dependent on Mr Fish in this hostile terrain.
At night, we were relieved that he escorted us to our tent with his torch, because there was a hippo sniffing around it, and the main thing with a hippo, as Mr Fish explained, is not to get between it and the water because it will try to get back there when alarmed, destroying anything which gets in its way, including you.
Having seen the size of a hippo's open jaw that morning as its skull lay glinting in the sun being picked over by vultures, we were more than happy to let Mr Fish stamp on the ground and make funny noises at our night visitor until it had pottered off into the dark.
Possibly, what makes Botswana so special is that it is a relatively late starter in the safari business. It achieved independence in the mid-Sixties under Sir Seretse Khama, who established a multiparty democracy there, and he ensured that nearly 20 per cent of the land is protected.
In terms of conservation, Botswana is a world leader, something which became apparent at our second stop, Jack's Camp, on the edge of the largest salt pan desert in Africa. Our hardiness must have been improving because we managed the second light aircraft flight with a little more dignity, and were beginning to feel almost rugged.
The Makgadikgadi Pans is a place where geology, anthropology and a string of other ologies meet. As the water disappeared from what was, millions of years ago, a giant inland lake, all that was left was this vast area of dry, salty, white mud.
We drove out on to it on light quad bikes to avoid sinking, and encouraged by Indiana Jo, our macheteed guide - an even more heroic figure to the boys walked off to see what we could find. Within a quarter of an hour we had collected maybe 20 or 30 genuine Stone Age hand tools which had been lying around there for the past 200,000 years or so.
After re-scattering them, Jo gave us a brief, child-friendly talk about the shifting of tectonic plates and the difference between early and middle Stone Age man, before serving up gin and tonic (tonic contains quinine, an anti-malarial agent, and the boys didn't miss the gin).
When we watched the sun not so much set as fall behind the curve of the Earth, there being nothing but flat salt pan in every direction. I've never seen such a horizon, even at sea. Nor have I seen a canopy of stars so vast.
Three days later, there was salty dust in every crease and pore of our skins and thorn scratches on every available area of leg, having been out walking with bushmen who showed us how they lay traps for black korhaan birds, dig for porcupines and wrestle water out of the ground.
After a morning spent sitting around the massive baobab tree dedicated to the 19th-Century explorer Chapman listening to Indiana Jo tell us the story of Livingstone and explain to us the history of the carvings on the tree, we felt we were leathery travellers, and could handle anything that the Great Outdoors could spring on us.
One of the boys said that this wasn't a holiday, it was a test of how brave you are. And by then we felt we were pretty brave.
In the visitors book at Jack's Camp we left the comment that the children, who are both under 10, had come out to Africa as boys, but were leaving it as men. When the going gets tough, the tough get on another light aircraft and fly back to Johannesburg with battered clothes, crusty, faithful boots and a faraway look in their eyes.
By the end of our trip, we'd been charged by 30 elephants, growled at by lions, shaken our shoes every morning for scorpions, and put ourselves through every precaution against malaria known to person kind (apart from Lariam, the one with the side-effects).
But nothing could compare with the test of endurance visited on us by Sabena.
On the return flight, our new-found nerves of steel began to erode during the five-hour wait on board the plane at Johannesburg prior to it being cancelled. We were dumped without a hotel room in the Jo'burg suburbs, with no one from Sabena to be seen.
This bunch of explorers had turned into a fractious mob arguing about Game Boy scores.
After 30 sleepless hours, we managed to transfer our return tickets to SAA and finally got home, minds expanded, to the laundry, the mail, the answerphone, and the leaking boiler.
We had been through the experience of a lifetime, out in a wilderness the size of France with the Kalahari dust still in our eyes, and fantastical images of leopards, cheetah, lions, giraffes, baboons and the freshly killed carcass of a zebra still vivid in our minds.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Ngala South Africa
On the animal front, the head high grass has been making game viewing a little trying at times. It has also made things a little harder for the usually highly efficient wild dogs. The 18 strong pack has been missing terrified impala fairly regularly as most of the time they cannot see what they are chasing. In some areas they have resorted to trotting along as if on pogo sticks, their heads peeping up out of the grass periodically as they scan the surrounds for potential quarry. No doubt the impala are most grateful for the thick sward.
There seem to be a plethora of male leopards around at the moment. Two testosterone charged males were seen the other day in quite close proximity with scratches and other assorted wounds baring testimony to a territorial battle. These young males are trying to assert themselves as they attain adulthood.
Other highlights of the week have included, three 300-strong herds of buffalo doing their best to control the grass explosion in the south of the reserve; wave upon wave of red billed queleas surging across the skies; a juvenile great spotted cuckoo being fed by a flock of Burchell's starlings(the young cuckoo was already bigger than his hosts).
Spectator?
A recent morning drive had not been as successful as a guide would like to offer to one�s guests. Pleasant enough sightings of zebra, giraffe, wildebeest and impala had ensured that the early start had not been a complete waste of time.
En route home, we stopped to watch a mature male giraffe browsing on an Acacia nigrescens some 7-odd metres off the road. Assuming he would turn his not-altogether-unattractive rear end on us & go lumbering off through the thicket, we were surprised when he turned instead to face us, his gentle eyes looking from one member of the vehicle to the next. More surprisingly, he took first one step & then two & then proceeded until he was within a metre & a half from the Land Rover of amazed onlookers.
The only sound was the swishing of his fly-swatter tail as each guest, ranger & tracker absorbed the tranquillity of the moment � locked in his gentle stare. The awed silence persisted as he slowly ambled past us to the road & made a graceful exit from the centre stage.
I have often wondered whether it is in fact more truthful to assume that the animals are viewing us rather than us viewing them ... Now we know.
Nosy Neighbour
I�m ashamed to admit that my new neighbour has become aware of my insatiable desire to monitor her every move. I rush home every morning to watch her scuttling to and fro. An intensely house-proud single mother, I see her leave, only to watch her return, delighted with the quarry she has procured.
�She� is a species of Thread-Waisted Wasp and her home is a small hole at the bottom of my front step. I am alerted to her arrival by her incessant humming as she goes about her chores � flying off determinedly, only to return a short while later bearing a fat green caterpillar carried in her fore-legs. The caterpillar, now paralysed, is laid to one side whilst she busies herself, digging through the surface sand until she locates the well-concealed entrance holed-up by a small stone, which she easily removes. A quick visit to the �kids�, she nips inside before conducting yet another spring-clean and, finally, enters the hole backwards, dragging the debilitated caterpillar with her.
When the �kids� hatch from the eggs she has neatly laid inside the tunnel, they will spend the first few days of their short lives feeding on this caterpillar and perhaps a few others before digging their way to the surface and assuming their own allotted place in the greater scheme of things.
As she carefully replaces the stone, checking it obsessively before covering it with a thin layer of sand, I can�t help but marvel at the whole process. Not so marvel-ous if you�re a caterpillar though ...
Quelea mayhem
The noise is completely deafening. It is most impressive in the early morning as the birds wake and continue the business of building their nests in preparation for breeding. Tens of thousands of red billed queleas rouse and start chirruping at each other from the knobthorn thicket the colony has chosen to produce the next generation. The little birds have chosen this spot for the safety of the trees and also the six foot sward of thickly seeded grass that has sprung up on the gabbro derived soils. Clouds of birds swish with incredible collective synchrony as though they have rehearsed every move a hundred times. From inflorescence to heavy seed filled inflorescence they swoosh. Culms bend and sway under the weight of the little birds as they pluck protein the rich seeds, nattering excitedly to each other.
The colony has attracted the inevitable bevy of raptors. Tawny eagles seem to be the most abundant predator. They sit not really knowing where to start as great squadrons of queleas shoot by. Whalberg�s eagles look equally as gleeful and confused. A rarely seen lanner falcon, far more used to grabbing fast moving prey, has also been spotted swooping in and plucking the odd straggler from the melee. A now fat resident gabar goshawk has also made the most of the good times. We continue to watch with interest.
The coming of life
The long awaited rains have come in surplus at Ngala and have transformed it into a lush green paradise with running rivers and streams, marshy vleis and scattered pans.
As well as the vegetation growth and insect explosion the frog and toad populations have boomed in this amphibian paradise turning the nights into an orchestral masterpiece. The terrapins and tortoises are out of aestivation and are as common on roadsides as pedestrians on a London side walk. Met with mixed reactions, there have been some impressive snakes seen including two huge Egyptian cobras, big black mambas, an almost resident African rock python at Clara dam, boomslangs and more. Above all the increased birdlife has been the most interesting and surprising with sightings of birds seldom or never seen here including many black storks, African jacanas, little grebes, African spoonbills, a malachite kingfisher, painted snipes, African and Corn crakes, dozens of white winged widows and hundreds of harlequin quails.
Ngala Trackers and Rangers
Great sightings despite (or because of?) rain
The rain, mist and sleet have not been entirely unproductive. The wild dogs have been sighted daily for the last week and a half such that guests no longer believe us when we tell them how lucky they are to see these extremely endangered hounds.
A cheetah was watched in awe, tearing after a terrified impala. Unfortunately the speedy cat narrowly missed probably because impala ducked into a fog patch. The rain has caused an explosion of grass growth. This, combined with the damp conditions, has brought a number of seldom seen birds. White winged widows (one record prior to this year), harlequin quails, fan-tailed cisticolas and kurrichane buttonquails have abounded in the long wet grasslands. Two sightings of painted snipe have also delighted birding guests peering out from under their ponchos. We have even had our first record of a corn crake!
Until next time we will be trying not to drown as the Timbavati moves into day 21 of uninterrupted flow.
Canine Chaos
We rounded the corner 100 metres from camp to find their patchy tan-white-and-black forms lightly trotting away from us. �Wild Dogs!� The eyes of the guests, who knew about the second-most endangered carnivore in Africa, lit up.
We followed them at their easy gait, watched them enter the Mopane woodland, and then circled around ahead to wait for them to emerge onto a large clearing. Our hearts stopped as we saw a large herd of impalas on the clearings feeding alongside a troop of baboons. All eyes were fixed on the edge of the thick Mopane woodland. The treeline exploded as the 15 Wild Dogs raced into the clearings. Impalas snorted and kicked their heels as they zig-zagged away from the danger; baboons barked and hurtled in a beeline for the safety of the Mopane trees. Unusually, the pack of hunters seemed overwhelmed and tried to chase all in sight - their lack of focus proved to be their downfall, as they regrouped in the clearing empty-handed. Slowly, we started breathing again...
Timbavati Flood
The Timbavati River is dry for most of the year. It is a wide river stretching over 60m in some areas. The recent deluge in the lowveld has transformed the Timbavati and its tributaries. The river came down in flood two weeks ago. It flowed 1.5 metres deep bank to bank making it utterly unfordable. Its smaller tributaries also broke their banks in some areas and filled the waterholes to over flowing. And so from a landscape of dust and desolation, devoid of grazing and water, Ngala has turned into a lush green swathe dotted with pans and wallows. The grass is almost too tall to look over. It has sent up inflorescences on long culms to pick up and send pollen off on the wind. Unusual birds for Ngala have been spotted (white winged windows and harlequin quails) and the herds of buffalo have dispersed to smaller groups to take full advantage of the abundant grazing and water. We eagerly await more as the clouds build.
Battle of the Wahlberg's
Heading home after game drive at night can be a fairly quiet affair. Not so on this particular evening! The spotlight caught the flurry of movement as a large shape launched itself from the branches of a Combretum in the East & landed in a heap on the other side of the road.
The shape was in fact two Wahlbergs� Eagles locked in battle � their talons clenched, tumbling around the ground: biting, scratching - neither of them prepared to capitulate. The sounds of their shrieking cut through the night air & gave the effect of a wild, angry banshee. Coupled with their thrashing about in the underbrush, the eerie sounds were their only give-away as we sat speechless in the dark and cold night air.
The next morning, the only evidence of the great battle was the tell-tale scuff-marks in the sand, littered by an occasional feather ...
Ngala's Gold Medal Winner
Just a few minutes into our morning safari a female cheetah was spotted just ahead of us. We hadn�t even seen her yet when we noticed a heard of impala feeding very close by. Seconds later, we saw her. She was trotting straight at the impala, her face blank and her eyes bright in total concentration just like an olympic sprinter poised in the starting blocks.
At that moment, I felt like the sprinter. With everybody hushed and holding my breath all I could here was the blood pumping through my eardrums as my heart rate shot through the roof. The start gun in this case was the ear piercing blast of an impala alarm call. I still close my eyes and see the rest in slow motion. The impala took off in every direction, one straight towards us followed by the sprinting predator now turned Ducati superbike leaning over like Valantino Rossi in the last tight bend towards the finishing line. The finishing line in this case was right behind us and she got the gold medal: a young female impala!
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Africa's three big cats - lion, leopard and cheetah - all capture and kill their prey in much the same manner as a domestic cat kills a mouse. The body proportions, dentition and claws of all cats - from lions to lynxes - is basically the same. Body size, social habits and habitat preferences are what separates most members of the family Felidae.
Although the way in which large cats stalk or approach their prey differs, the actual method of killing is similar. The first objective is to bring the quarry to the ground, and for medium-sized prey this is achieved by grasping the hindquarters. With its feet firmly on the ground, a lion or leopard pulls an antelope to the ground by hooking its talons into its rump and tugging downward. If in pursuit of fleeing prey, cats reach out with their forepaw to trip their quarry. For very large prey such as buffalo, lions may jump onto the animal's back, using their own body weight to topple the victim. Once an animal is off its feet, the cat goes for the throat or muzzle, clamping its jaws tight to suffocate the prey. With small prey, a bite is delivered to the neck to sever the spinal chord.
Whenever a cat hunts and dispatches prey, it must minimise the chance of injuring itself - a sprained leg or broken canine tooth, could easily lead to starvation.
In many parts of Africa, lion, leopard and cheetah occur side-by-side. They are able to coexist because they have different habitat and prey preferences, which reduces competition. Different hunting strategies are employed not only by the different big cats, but also for the various prey species which they hunt.
Leopard
The leopard is the most adaptable of Africa's big cats, with the widest range of prey. Large males can tackle quarry up to the size of adult Topi although they rarely take such risks. Medium-sized and small antelope, as well as warthog, are favoured prey in most areas. The leopard relies on its stealth and patience to approach its prey. Successful hunts usually demand that the leopard surprises its victim, pouncing before it can react and pulling it to the ground. Smaller prey, such as hyraxes, hares and monkeys may be chased and cornered before being clawed and bitten on the back of the neck or throat. In some parts of their range, leopard are almost entirely nocturnal hunters, but in other areas (notably the South African lowveld) they are active throughout the day. Individual leopards may acquire a preference for certain prey animals and develop particular hunting strategies. Warthog may be captured as they leave or enter their underground burrows, entailing a lengthy wait for a patient leopard. Catfish will be plucked from shrinking pools at the end of the rainy season by a leopard which ignores other quarry.
Lion
Lion are the only truly social cats and adult females typically hunt in pairs or groups. When hunting favoured prey such as wildebeest or zebra, lions usually stalk to within 30 metres before rushing at them. In most cases the lions will wait until the quarry has turned away or has its head down. Once it detects danger, the victim bolts but it may be too late. On rare occasions, (and invariably in daylight) lion may ambush prey, with one member of the pride lying in wait as its partner forces the quarry to run in its direction. The sheer abundance of prey can also determine hunting strategies. When great herds of migratory wildebeest are milling about, lions can simply rush into them and pull down one or more of the confused animals. When the same herds gather to cross the Grumeti or Mara rivers, lions simply wait at favoured crossing points and pick off the startled wildebeest. Although male lions have the reputation (quite deserved) of pirating free meals from hardworking lionesses, they are called upon when extra large prey is tackled. Several females may corner and threaten a buffalo, but it will usually take a big male to topple such a beast. In northern Botswana, some large lion prides have taken to preying on young and even sub-adult elephant, and this entails tight teamwork to separate their targets from defensive adults. In South Africa's Kruger National Park, lions appear to have become adept at killing giraffe by attacking them on tarmac roads where the tall mammals lose their foothold on the slippery surface. Lions generally have a higher success rate when hunting after dark.
Cheetah
Built for speed, cheetah hunt by day. They are less reliant on stalking than leopard or lion, but most successful hunts involve walking slowly towards their prey, and �freezing' their posture each time the quarry looks in their direction. Once a cheetah gets to within a range of 50 metres or less, it will sprint towards the prey, instantaneously singling out one individual. With its quarry in full flight, the cheetah's strategy is to catch up with it and strike out, clipping its back legs. The faster a gazelle or antelope is running, the more readily it tumbles. Such a fall may cause a broken leg, but within seconds the cheetah takes hold of its victim's throat and clasps its jaws tightly. Cheetah only have about 300 metres in which to catch their prey, because they cannot continue at full speed beyond that. Gazelles often evade cheetah by turning sharply, while animals which stand their ground are rarely attacked. Cheetah are less adaptable than lions or leopards, but some individuals may become adept at hunting in thick bushland where sprinting is impossible. At Kwandwe, in the Eastern Cape Province, some Cheetah have broken all the 'rules' and have taken to hunting on moonlit nights.
Watching any of the big cats on the hunt is one of the most thrilling elements of a safari. With astute and sensitive guides and an intimate knowledge of predator territories vacationtechnician guided safaris provide some of the best opportunities to witness this behaviour.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Kwando Wildlife Report 14-19 April 2004
Kwara
* One nice sighting of a male Leopard.
* A group of 3 Cheetah (female plus 2 youngsters) were followed hunting but were unsuccessful.
* The resident male Lions were followed but did not get up to much.
* Nocturnal sightings include Porcupine, Serval and Genet.
* Good general game with Elephant bulls in and around camp, Zebra, Tsessebe, Red Lechwe, Giraffe, Impala, Baboons and Warthog.
* A Little Bittern was seen from the boat plus plenty other birds and Hippo.
Lebala
* Elephant numbers are picking up and are being seen in sizeable herds.
* Lions have been seen on and off and have disappeared into the Mopane woodlands for the last 3 days.
* Spectacular Cheetah kill on Impala was witnessed from start to finish near camp.
* Nocturnal sightings include a good diversity of Owl species, Serval, Springhares and Genets.
* Good general game with Giraffe, Zebra, a surprising herd of 10 Eland, Impala, Kudu and a small group of Buffalo.
Lagoon
* There has been one sighting of the pack of Wild Dogs hunting but no kills were seen or found.
* Excellent sighting of the 2 Leopard cubs again who were found resting.
* Good activity at the Hyena den and it seems like 2 females are sharing the same burrow with 2 youngsters each.
* Nocturnal sightings include Porcupine, Serval and African Wild Cats.
* General game includes large numbers of Elephants, large numbers of Giraffe, Zebra, Blue Wildebeest, Impala, Red Lechwe, Warthogs and Steenbuck.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
A Rhino in Botswana's Okavango Delta sizes up vacationtechnician wildlife-watchers. "Safaris might be the key to winning the conservation battle in Africa," says Colin Bell, whose company won the World Legacy Award in the Nature Travel category.
On June 8, 2004, at National Geographic's Washington, D.C., headquarters, Queen Noor of Jordan is scheduled to again present the World Legacy Awards (WLA) for sustainable tourism�a joint program of National Geographic Traveler magazine and Conservation International (www.wlaward.org).
Queen Noor presided over the first WLA ceremony last year, announcing winners in three categories: Nature Travel, Heritage Tourism, and Destination Stewardship. Each winner works to protect the natural and cultural quality of the places we visit, supports local communities, and gives us lasting travel memories.
This week, in anticipation of the 2004 ceremony, we present the winners of 2003 as described in Traveler (September 2003), starting with the Nature
Wilderness Safaris, Southern Africa
"To me, there is no more uplifting, inspirational, or educational form of travel than a safari," Colin Bell, founder of Wilderness Safaris, tells me. So I'm learning in northern Namibia at the company's Skeleton Coast Camp, a 600,000-acre (240,000-hectare) reserve, one of 44 eco-friendly Wilderness Safari camps in seven African countries. The experience is more than just touring Earth's oldest desert (55 million years) with sand dunes that vibrate and hum under the chilly Atlantic winds. It's more than tracking springbok and desert elephant; more than combing beaches flecked with garnet, agate, and diamond; more even than visiting the nomadic Himba to witness their centuries-old way of life. It's complete immersion in the large, fantastic world of the desert.
When I ask if any industrial use threatens this land, our amiable guide, Douw Steyn, says, "Yes. It's widely used in the tourist trade." He shows us a gravel plain lacerated by the truck tires of joyriding tourists, saying the tracks will take a century or more to disappear. Southern Africa-based Wilderness Safaris, by contrast, has built its reputation on minimizing tourism damage and maximizing its benefits to both people and nature.
At the Mombo Camp in Botswana's Okavango Delta, for instance, my gin and tonic came with a slide show on the Wilderness Safaris backed rhino reintroduction program here. Poachers eradicated rhinos here in the early 1980s, but now 21 white rhinos nibble about. On a walking safari at Jao Camp, also in the Okavango, local guide Frank Mashebe thrilled guests by unlocking the secrets of�of all things�termite mounds. (They have an air-conditioning system, for instance).
Wilderness Safaris won its award partly because it hires, trains, and promotes talented locals like Mashebe. At Botswana's Savuti Camp, another skilled guide, Benson Siyawareva, tracked down the rare African wild dog, or "painted wolf." Only 5,000 or so still roam, but he finds a pack of 16�the gift of conservation.
"Our conservation ethic and community-based tourism model have resulted in threatened land becoming protected," Bell tells me. "And our Children in the Wilderness project, which has given week-long safaris to a thousand underprivileged African children, should help create the next generation of African conservationists."
For more information book via safari specialists such as New York-based vacationtechnician.com.
Watch for the Heritage Tourism winner in two weeks, and the announcement of the 2004 World Legacy winners on June 8.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
PHOTOGRAPHY
The choice of the correct camera equipment and film will determine the quality of your photographs on the trip. For good photography of birds and animals, a good SLR camera and telephoto lens is necessary. A zoom lens can be extremely useful on safari and the minimum recommended size is 200mm.
Consideration should be given before travelling with any lens bigger than 400 mm as most interesting shots are taken using hand held equipment. The new high-resolution digital cameras are outstanding and give great quality images, especially if you are using a digital camera body which takes normal camera lenses. Camera bodies like the Canon D60 and 1D are superb. The advantage of digital photography is that one can get instant feedback and adjustments can be made in the field to your techniques to ensure that your photographs are the quality that you would like. Color reversal film (slides) will give far better quality than prints.
Our guides have found that they are getting the best results using Fuji film. Fuji has brought out a good high-speed film that gives good color with very little grain (less so than any of their competitors). This is especially useful when using a big lens in low light situations. The guides' personal preference is the slower film (either 50 or 100 ASA) as this gives almost perfect quality for normal light. However, you may consider going to 200 ASA for a larger lens in low lighting conditions. The new Fuji 400, we believe is giving great results too.
The only disadvantage with the low ASA film is that you need a tripod for the early morning and evening shots.
IMPORTANT: BRING SPARE FILM (ALTHOUGH IT IS AVAILABLE IN MOST CAMPS/LODGES) AND A SPARE CAMERA BATTERY.
PASSPORTS & VISAS
International visitors require a valid passport together with onward travel documents. All passport holders should verify with vacationtechnician or relevant consulate concerning visa entry requirements. If you are extending your journey to other countries, please establish entry requirements for those countries as well. Please ensure that you have all the necessary visas prior to departure (unless available on entry).
VIDEO
Charging facilities for video cameras are very limited on the safari, so please bring enough batteries to last you at least 3 days of video filming. If you have a 12V charging pack which can be connected to the vehicle via the cigarette lighter, you may be able to charge your battery when it is travelling on the longer drives. Please bring your own attachment to connect your charger or video to the cigarette lighter.
WALKING
Walking is not allowed in the Chobe National Park nor the Moremi Game Reserve. It is allowed outside these reserves including much of the Okavango Delta. Walking can, however, lead to encounters with potentially dangerous WILD ANIMALS. Walking is, therefore, at your own risk. Never walk around unescorted.
DRIVING CONDITIONS
If visiting remote areas or national parks and reserves, the roads could be rough and bumpy and occasionally we will travel "off road", where it is possible that injuries may occur - if for example a hidden pothole is struck. Neither the vacationtechnician nor our staff members, associates nor agents can be held liable for any accidents or any damages!
RESPECTING WILDLIFE & SAFETY WHEN STAYING AT SAFARI CAMPS/LODGES
The wild animals are not like those found in theme parks They are not tame.
Most of the safari camps are unfenced and dangerous animals can (and do!) wander through the camps. Many of the animals and reptiles you will see are potentially dangerous. Attacks by wild animals are rare. However, there are no guarantees that such incidents will not occur. vacationtechnician, our staff members, associates, agents, or their suppliers can be held liable for any injuries caused during an incident involving the behaviour of wild animals.
Please listen to the camp staff and guides. The safety precautions need to be taken seriously, and strictly adhered to.
Do not go wandering off on your own without a guide -even to your tent.
After retiring to your tent at night, don't leave the tent!
Observe animals silently and with a minimum of disturbance to their natural activities. Loud talking on game drives can frighten the animals away.
Never attempt to attract an animal's attention. Don't imitate animal sounds, clap your hands, pound the vehicle or throw objects.
Please respect your driver-guide's judgment about proximity to lions, cheetahs and leopards. Don't insist that he take the vehicle closer so you can get a better photograph. A vehicle driven too close can hinder a hunt or cause animals to abandon a hard-earned meal.
Litter tossed on the ground can choke or poison animals and birds and is unsightly.
Never attempt to feed or approach any wild animal on foot. This is especially important near lodges or in campsites where animals may have become accustomed to human visitors.
Refrain from smoking on game drives. The dry African bush ignites very easily, and a flash fire can kill animals.
SATELLITE & IRIDIUM TELEPHONES
Telecommunications in the urban areas are easily accessible but please note that the campsites you may be visiting could be located in very remote parts of Southern Africa and do not have telephones.
An increasing number of guests have been bringing satellite phones along with them on safari. As most people come on safari to get away from it all, we feel that we must set some limitations on the use of these phones when on safari. We suggest the following guidelines on the use of satellite phones:
1. Please ensure the ring tone is kept at a low volume to avoid disturbing other guests.
2. Please use your phone in the privacy of your tent and not any of the common areas: dining area, bar/lounge area, or on any of the vehicles or on game drives.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Our mokoro trips are one of the most enjoyed activities. We presently have 2 mokoro stations - each offers different vistas around the area, either a breaking dawn to remember or a memorable sunset. vacationtechnician guests are constantly commenting on this height of indulgence - toasting a breathtaking sunset from the mokoro with a G&T in one hand, and their bird book in the other. We offer a half or full day combination drive/mokoro safaris with picnics if requested.
A boating activity from Kwetsani is top of the list of highlights. There is no better way to appreciate the waterways of the Okavango Delta than from a boat moving through channels of papyrus, with abundant flora and water lilies where African Jacana hide along with Slaty and Little Egrets, Goliath Herons and a myriad of other water birds. Sightings of the hippo and crocodiles are also a big thrill for guests. We have a vehicle stationed at Hunda Island permanently and offer both half and full day drive/ boat safaris. vacationtechnician guests appreciate being able to see plains game on the drier savanna areas of Hunda with giraffe, zebra, kudu, buffalo, and elephant being regularly sighted. Some of the lucky ones were able to spend time with the Wild Dogs too.
Game drives around Kwetsani Island have been fantastic. The water has confined our drives to a smaller area, and involve exciting driving through water over half a metre deep in some places. The Kwetsani Pride has been very active and most guests visiting us have been able to see the 2 regal males with their pride - offering night time thrills with their territorial roaring.
A female leopard has been seen regularly on the island - playing out in the open, and frequently resting up in a shady tree - almost all our guests enjoyed a leopard encounter of some description this month. A very rare sighting of a cheetah had us all very excited. It is very unusual to have these cats in this part of the concession at this time of year with all the water around and was a lovely surprise.
The flood plains in front of the lodge are always alive with lechwe - with the water coming right up to the swimming pool, these unusual water antelope sometimes venture only 20m away from the swimming pool deck. Around Kwetsani Island serval, genet, porcupine and African wild cat have been spotted on late night game drives. Our honey badger population is as
cheeky and arrogant as ever, but great to have around the camp. Hyaena are also often seen both early in the morning and in the evening from the deck of the lodge.
The birdlife has been spectacular with many storks, egrets and Wattled Cranes wading across the floodplains just in front of camp. We had a small flock of Lesser Flamingo's in the channel behind Kwetsani for a week or two, and 4 African Skimmers were seen near MacFarlanes Bridge earlier in the month.
Each vacationtechnician guest has experienced either a Baobab dinner, bush cocktails or both. Compliments on the standard of food have been flowing as frequently as ever with our chefs often called to the table from the kitchen for applause. While the month started with deluge after deluge of rain, it seems the rainy season is slowly abating. We recorded 70mm of rain this month. The weather has been pleasantly warm to hot during the day, with windy evenings and the odd spectacular African thunderstorm on the horizons in the afternoons. Our March 2004 average low temperature was 21 and the high 32.
Kwetsani Camp Botswana is a five roomed luxury tented camp located in a private reserve 25km to the west of Mombo and to the west of the Moremi Game Reserve. The large elongated island on which Kwetsani is built is heavily wooded, cool and shady with Palm, Mangosteen and Fig trees and is one of the most remote camps in the entire Okavango Delta.
Kwetsani Camp is raised on stilts beneath the shady canopy, overlooking the expansive plains. The five wonderful, spacious tree-house chalets are built under a thatch roof, with wood, glass and a little canvas. All have en-suite facilities including a shower, flush toilet, twin basins and an additional outdoor shower for those who like showering in the open air. The camp overlooks an enormous floodplain that is dotted with lechwe and wildebeest. One can lie in one's room, or in the pool and watch the animals in front of the camp. All the Okavango's large predators are found here.
Activities include mekoroing, walking on palm-fringed islands and game drives during the day and night. The night drives are currently restricted , due to high flood water levels, to an hour drive around the camp island. In the height of the Okavango's annual floods, boats are used to get around the area and also to transfer to the islands where the game viewing vehicles are located. Lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, buffalo and elephant are all found in this area, as well as good concentrations of zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, and all the plains game. Access into this area is only by aircraft (dependant on the Okavango's flood levels, either Jao or Hunda airstrip is used for access to this camp).
Hippo, Sitatunga antelope and Crocodile reside in the deeper permanent lily~filled lagoons of the area. Lion, Leopard, Wild Dog, Cheetah, Tsessebe and Lechwe are among the major game attractions at Kwetsani. Nocturnal animals such as Porcupine, Aardwolf, Serval, Genet and Bushbaby can be observed on the night drives (water levels permitting).
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
News from the Kwando Concession in Northern Botswana
Quick Links to Kwando Botswana Information from vacationtechnician.com
Cheetah Hunt Lebala
Predator Safaris Kwando
Save the Botswana Bushmen Petition Drive
Kwara camp
* Excellent Leopard sightings of a female that was seen every day for 3 days
around the camp, walking around and marking its territory
* Good Cheetah sightings including the resident male that was found lying
up. A Cheetah kill on an Impala was seen from start to finish in an open
flood plain area. This was a female Cheetah with 2 cubs.
* Good Lion sightings of a mating pair that have busy for a few days. There
are 2 large males in the group but only one has established his dominance
and is mating with the female.
* There a 5 resident Elephant bulls that are hanging around camp and general
game viewing is good.
* Good birds in general with lots of activity before the migrants depart.
Lagoon camp
* Excellent Lion sightings and the 3 large territorial males have been
followed for 5 days in a row � no kills though! The pride of 5 females have
increased with the addition of 5 new cubs!
* Good general game of Tsessebe, Blue Wildebeest, Zebra, Impala, Kudu and
small groups of Elephants.
* Nocturnal sightings include African Wildcat, Springhares, Bush Babies and
Genets. There has also been some good sightings of Owls.
* Boat trips on the Kwando River are proving popular and the Kwando River
has risen 20 � 30 cm this past week. The Hippos are moving to the shallow
areas.
* An interesting sighting with birds included the successful rearing of
Striped Cuckoo nestling � one raised by a Cape Turtle Dove, and the other
raised by a Grey Loerie.
Lebala camp
* Pack of 5 Wild Dogs was seen 3 times for brief periods but they are
hunting mainly in the Mopane woodlands making it difficult to follow.
* Lion sightings include 2 large male together, a pride of 4 females and
numerous sightings of nomadic males.
* Excellent Leopard sightings of a female with 2 young cubs. These cubs are
relaxed and habituated to the vehicles. They have been seen virtually every
day.
* Excellent sightings of 2 Sitatunga that are being seen regularly from the
Lookout point in camp! One is a young male and the other is a young female.
* Good Cheetah sightings of a male on his own and then also of a female with
a sub adult male.
* Nocturnal sightings include African Wildcat, Serval and Caracal.
* Very good general game sightings, especially Giraffe. A grouping
comprising of 59 individuals was sighted! Other species include Blue
Wildebeest, Zebra, Red Lechwe, small groups of Elephants and also small
groups of Buffalo (18 � 100)
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Dominant Vumbura Male Lion attacks Hyaena
It was a happy hyaena, that is at least what it looked like. A few hyaenas were chewing away on the leftovers from a lion kill made earlier this morning. An unknown lion pride had caught an unsuspecting wildebeest in what is known as "Big Red Territory", the name referring to the mane of the dominant male lion in the north west of the Kwedi concession. They had just moved off, seemingly in a rush, as we arrived at the scene of the kill. But why so hasty? There were clearly not enough hyaenas to seriously threaten them.
20 minutes later, hyaenas still in feeding frenzy, we heard some zebra alarm calls in the distance. Shortly followed by a stampede of zebra on the horizon. Whatever had frightened the zebras, was coming our way. Another 10-15 minutes later we could make out the huge reddish mane of "Big Red", steering a clear course to the place of action. The hyaenas kept staring in his direction and all of us agreed that they must have seen Big Red approaching them in the high grass. He was still far away, leaving plenty of time for the hyaenas to keep on chewing. Big Red seemed on a mission, he moved fast and in a straight line until he was about 100 meters away, continuously being checked on by the hyaenas. He then lay down in the grass, observing the kill. The hyaenas clearly did not take this guy seriously enough as they did not realise when Big Red slowly emerged from his resting place and started to stalk them.
I was thrilled to get some lion-hyaena action as it had been a while since a had witnessed my last clash of these eternal enemies. None of us expected anything but a little chase by a lazy and way to slow male lion, however, things turned out differently. Big Red slowly crept forward, inching closer and closer by the minute. He was getting decent cover from the hyaenas in the grass, we had him continuously in sight. The game drive vehicle clearly had a better viewpoint than the hyaenas, however, we all agreed again that they must have been aware of his approach as they continuously scanned around.
Big Red was closing in, he took his time, inch by inch, meter by meter. He must have been about 25-30 meters away when he bursted into attack mode and came full speed towards the hyaenas. I was hoping for this as the vehicle was in a great position to photograph him running straight towards the camera. I was still convinced he would never be fast enough to get anywhere close to the hyaenas, as a result I had my 70-200mm telephoto lens mounted. I was wrong. The hyaenas were completely surprised by the attack and only realised the bad news when he was within 8-10 meters. Too late for one of them! I was still shooting with my 70-200mm lens when I realised he was going to catch one of them right in front of our eyes. I definitely had the wrong lens for this close action.
Before I could change my lens, Big Red grabbed one of the hyaenas by its neck/shoulder region. The hyaena screamed like hell, she had all the reason to. Big Red held it in a very strong grip. As they kept rolling in the grass, I kept shooting. It did not look good for the hyaena. I was certain Big Red was going to finish her off, not for a meal, but purely for territorial reasons. Lions will kill any potential competitor.
Surprisingly, Big Red suddenly let the hyaena go. Perhaps he just wanted to give it a warning or maybe he thought mortal wounds had already been inflicted. The hyaena shook itself off and simply trotted away. It had serious wounds on its neck and was bleeding heavily. As the hyaena walked away, we were certain it would not survive the next few days.
Big Red was still in a rage, searching for the invading lions. We followed Big Red for another hour and a half as he covered about 12km before he lost the other lion's scent. We then lost his tracks in the dense vegetation. What an exciting morning !! Vumbura and Little Vumbura did it again, delivering yet another thrilling and intense wildlife experience!
Vumbura Camp Botswana
(pronounced Vuumbera) is an 8-roomed tented camp situated to the north of Mombo, in a private concession bordering the Moremi Game Reserve in the extreme north of the Okavango Delta.
Vumbura offers both water and land activities. Mekoros (dug-out canoes) traverse the flood plains under the guidance of polers from the BaYei tribe, who have been using mekoros as their traditional form of transport for hundreds of years. Boats take guests onto the larger and deeper areas of water (water levels permitting).
Open 4x4 Land Rovers allow close proximity to animals in the savannah areas. This is possibly the only area in the Okavango where one can see Red Lechwe from a mokoro in the morning, then a Sable antelope from a game vehicle in the afternoon.
Add in Lion, Leopard, Elephant and Buffalo along with all the plains game, and one has an excellent all round game experience in a remote corner of the Okavango. Walks on the islands give guests the opportunity to enjoy Africa from a different perspective.
Each one of the 8 tented rooms has en-suite facilities with hot and cold running water, a shower, and flush toilet as well as an outdoor shower under the stars. The main dining, lounge and pub area is tucked beneath a canopy of indigenous trees with a view across the floodplain.
The camp has a plunge pool. Access into this area is only by aircraft and then by vehicle to camp. If the waters are high in winter, we may have to access the camp from the airstrip by mekoros or boat.
Little Vumbura Camp Botswana
is a beautiful six roomed tented camp situated to the north of Mombo in a private reserve bordering the Moremi Game Reserve in the northern reaches of the Okavango Delta. Little Vumbura offers both water and land activities, as well as walks for those who are keen. Mekoros (dug-out canoes) traverse the flood plains under the guidance of our experienced polers.
Open 4x4 Land Rovers allow guests to get close to animals in the savannah areas. However for much of 2004, this activity will be limited due to the high annual flood waters in the Okavango. For much of the March to October period, we will be boating to dry land and only board our game viewing vehicles there. Guests usually have the opportunity to see Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Sable and Buffalo, along with all the plains game, providing an excellent all round game experience in this remote corner of the Okavango.
Walks (on request basis only) around the islands give guests the opportunity to enjoy Africa from a different perspective. The tented rooms are large and comfortably appointed, with an en-suite bathroom with hot and cold running water, a shower, and flush toilet - and an outside shower under the stars.
The camp has a plunge pool too. Access into this area is only by aircraft and if the water levels are high in winter, a mokoro trip and / or a boat will transfer guests to camp.
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