Zambia Today...

In contrast, the north, surrounded by the Democratic Republic of Congo to the west, Tanzania to the north and Malawi to the east, has remained relatively untouched, with little or no tourism infrastructure development. But this is its charm.

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We were sharing a cool drink at a roadside market stall, when the young Bemba man turned to me and said, 'I can see why you have come here. It is because so few others do.' That was not my initial reason for heading to northern Zambia, but rather to explore the lakes and waterfalls and, hopefully, to glimpse my first shoebill and black lechwe in the Bangweulu Swamp. But as I meandered my way deeper into the countryside, I began to realize how insightful his judgment had been, not only of my preferred type of travel destination, but also at the overall appeal of this little-known part of Africa that was home for him. This is where the water meets the sky... a place for those intrepid travelers who nurture the wisdom imparted by that young man. A place where time and schedule lose their meaning, and the temptations and conveniences of commercial tourism soon lose their appeal.

The North
Zambia has many well-known wilderness and cultural attractions for those in pursuit of safari and adventure excursions. The national parks and river systems in the western, southern and eastern regions of the country are mostly well-established destinations and they receive the majority of the annual visitor quota. In contrast, the north, surrounded by the Democratic Republic of Congo to the west, Tanzania to the north and Malawi to the east, has remained relatively untouched, with little or no tourism infrastructure development. But this is its charm. Numerous large lakes with their adjoining wetland systems and a multitude of rivers and waterfalls make it a veritable water world. Beyond the lakes and waterways, rural African life dominates the lush landscape with villages, markets and small-scale agricultural plots hugging the roadsides and lakeshores. And there are some unique wildlife experiences to be had, whether it's on land or under water that you are searching for rare and endemic species.

The Lakes
Pride of place amongst the northern region's many lakes belongs to Lake Tanganyika, one of the world's longest lakes and its second deepest freshwater one. Although Zambia can claim only seven per cent of the lake's surface area at its southern tip, this is enough to get an idea of its vastness and, if you are afloat on its waters, the sensation of being enveloped by an inland sea. Access to the lake is best from Kasaba Bay Lodge or Ndole Bay Lodge, both of which are comfortable resorts offering a host of activities from the western shore. For divers, there are over 300 species of fish, mostly endemic cichlids, and for fishermen there are tigerfish and perch. Both lodges offer the equipment and craft for these sports as well as boating excursions. While Ndole Bay is the preferred birding destination because of its setting amongst dense woodland, Kasaba Bay is a better option for those in search of game. It is situated in the Nsumbu National Park and the rare blue duiker and the last elephant herd can be seen there roaming the lakeshores. Animals were once prolific in the park but it has suffered over the past few decades from the effects of poaching, uncontrolled hunting and a lack of funding.

Lake Bangweulu and Lake Mweru, although also impressive bodies of water, have a rather different appeal that is centred on the activities of village life. Mweru, with its deep and muddy floor providing nutrient-rich feeding grounds, is the fish basket of the region. Most of the people living along its shores are involved in the fishing industry in some way.

Bangweulu, which means 'the place where the water meets the sky', also has a thriving fishing industry centred in the somewhat run-down town of Samfya. In contrast to Mweru, it is a shallower lake with a sandy bottom and so does not offer the same commercial yields, but is well stocked with Africa's prize angling species, the tigerfish. The lake is part of a greater system that links it to the Bangweulu Swamp and Lake Kampolompo through a maze of densely vegetated wetland systems, which in turn are splintered by a myriad of narrow flowing channels. Visitors to Lake Bangweulu should head for Tigerfish Haven, a small lodge and campsite along the road to the mission town of Twingi. Those who wish to explore the waterways can hire a boat and a guide here.

The Swamp
It is a mystery why this extended wetland system is not either a national park or a protected area, as of all the wilderness regions in the north, Bangweulu Swamp has some of the densest concentrations of wildlife, including Zambia's sought-after black lechwe and shoebill.

The swamp is fed by 17 rivers and is part of a greater basin-type system that includes Lake Bangweulu and a series of floodplains on the southern and western edges. It is these vast floodplains that are home to the endemic black lechwe, which gather in herds of up to 10 000 when the flood levels recede. Tsessebe, reedbuck, oribi and common duiker are to be found towards the edges of the floodplains where the flat grasslands merge with the miombo woodland. Within the wetlands, hippo and crocodile are common in the lagoons and along the waterways, while elephant and buffalo are seasonal visitors.

Bangweulu is also a birdwatchers' paradise. It lies at the extreme south of the pelican-like shoebill's range which, although an elusive species, is readily seen on the swamp fringes during the months after the rains. The swamps provide rich feeding grounds for flocks of pelicans, storks, ibises, herons and most of the waterfowl species. Other specials include bittern, long-toed flufftail, white-cheeked bee-eater and Fülleborn's longclaw. For birders, the best time to visit is through the winter months when the wetlands are more accessible. Shoebill Camp, the only lodge in the area, provides a very comfortable stopover and will be able to supply guides for exploring the swamp. Bangweulu is a must-see highlight for anyone undertaking a trip to northern Zambia.

The National Parks
Although the region has six designated national parks, the grim reality is that only one, Kasanka National Park, sustains viable populations of game - probably because it is the only park managed by a private trust with access to ongoing funding. Another, Nsumbu National Park, has reasonable populations of game concentrated around Kasaba Bay, but poor management and poaching is taking its toll on its inland sections. The other parks have been almost totally poached out and facilities for visitors are minimal or non-existent.

Kasanka, a small park of 420 square kilometres lying on the southern fringe of the Bangweulu Basin, is well worth a visit if you are travelling in the region, as it offers some of the best sitatunga sightings anywhere in southern and Central Africa. It also has healthy populations of puku, sable, waterbuck, Lichtenstein's hartebeest, hippo, bushpig and the rare blue monkey, but sightings of elephant and buffalo are erratic. Kasanka does play host to what is possibly the largest migrational gathering of straw-coloured fruit-bats in the world. Every year in October anywhere between one and five million of these large bats begin gathering for three months of feeding before heading north again during January. For birders, the park has a bird list of over 350 species, which includes Ross's lourie, Pel's fishing owl and osprey.

People and Places
Northern Zambia has a high population density, primarily because of all the water, which affords the growing number of settlements a lifestyle based on fishing and subsistence agriculture. Travelling in well-populated areas does not suit everyone but, in this instance, the friendly and vibrant nature of the people is one of the most memorable aspects of the area. Mostly Bemba, the people of the north will welcome you as one of their own, whether you are amongst them in the fishing markets on the lakeshore or mingling with them in the dusty village streets. The Bemba are known for the intricate and colourful artwork adorning the walls of their mud homes. Take the time to stop and allow the locals to show you the techniques used in the decorative aspects of their home-building or become a part of the market scene when the fishing boats arrive back from a night on the water. For those who are interested in the history of the Bemba, the Moto-Moto Museum at Mbala is worth a half-day visit.

David Livingstone is one of the continent's most famous explorers and his memorial is not far from the Kasanka National Park. The spot where he eventually succumbed to illness and exhaustion holds significance for any traveller and is worth a visit. Along the road to Kawambwa is the Mbereshi Mission, a stately red-brick church constructed by the London Missionary Society in the early 1900s. If you pass by on a Sunday afternoon you may catch the church's traditional drumming group practising with dedicated exuberance on the lawns in front of the main entrance.

For those who are fascinated by tales of colonial adventure and intrigue and are travelling in the Chinsali district between Mpika and Isoka, there is the story of Colonel Gore-Brown and the rambling manor house and estate of Shiwa Ng'andu he built in 1932. Gore-Brown's dream was to plant groves of citrus trees from which he would extract the essential oils for export. Shiwa Ng'andu is in the process of being restored and does not yet offer overnight accommodation, but the nearby Kapishya Hot Springs is a good place to stay. It offers a delightfully rustic lodge on the banks of a lazy stream and the chance to while away your time in the warm crystal waters of the hot spring.

Not far off the Great North Road are two archaeological sites, the Nsalu Cave, just north of Serenje, and the Nachikufu Cave near Mpika, both of which were inhabited 20 000 years ago by Stone Age inhabitants who left behind some interesting rock paintings.

From ancient rock art and more recent colonial history to exploring the waterways of the Bangweulu Swamp by boat, northern Zambia has something special to offer travellers, and not just that so few of them go there.

THE WATERFALLS
A trip to northern Zambia could be planned around the many waterfalls alone, as there are at least 10 sites worth visiting in the region. Most are reasonably accessible and all are without the distractions of commercial tourism. The Lumangwe Falls, about 95 kilometres from the town of Kawambwa, and the Kalambo Falls, near the eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika, are the most impressive.

The geographic layout of Lumangwe (almost a mini version of Victoria Falls but without the drenching spray or the perpetual drone of helicopters and microlights overhead) allows one a full-frontal vista of its striking 150-metre-wide, 50-metre-high water wall. Take time to explore the surroundings - follow the small path leading down to cool crystal pools directly below the main flow of the falls or amble upstream along the river edge beneath a subtropical canopy that is home to troops of blue monkeys.

The Kalambo Falls offer an entirely different perspective. At 220 metres high, they are said to be the second highest falls in Africa and the 12th highest in the world. The waters enter Lake Tanganyika on Zambia's border with Tanzania in the north-east of the country, dropping away from the escarpment in a narrow spouting jet of white which, from a distance, resembles a giant horse's tail. Approaching the falls from land is difficult as the terrain is rough and once you're there, your view is restricted by the narrowness of the river and its precipice. The best way to see the falls is in a boat from below.

Other falls worth visiting include the 80-metre-high Kundalila Falls off the Great North Road, the Ntumbachusi Falls near Kawambwa and the Kabweluma Falls, a short distance downstream from Lumangwe. There are no facilities at any of these waterfall sites, so visitors need to cater for all their own needs.

NORTHERN ZAMBIA

GETTING ABOUT
A 4x4 vehicle is recommended when travelling these regions. While the tar roads are good, the dirt roads can be very challenging. Make use of fuel stations when they appear and be prepared to pay up for both petrol and diesel.

WHEN TO GO
Avoid the summer rainy season as the dirt roads become very difficult to negotiate. April through to October is the most comfortable period.

HEALTH
The region is a high-risk malaria area - prophylactics are recommended. Bilharzia is a possibility in some of the lakes. Take your own drinking water.

WHERE TO STAY
Kasaba Bay Lodge and Ndole Bay Lodge on the shores of Lake Tanganyika offer very comfortable stopovers. Tigerfish Haven on the shores of Lake Bangweulu and Shoebill Camp in the Bangweulu Swamp are also recommended. For the rest, one needs to be self sufficient and prepared for camping out.

SAFETY
Be careful not to stray into the Democratic Republic of Congo on Zambia's western border and do not approach the same country's section of Lake Tanganyika while in a boat. For the rest, Zambians are incredibly welcoming and friendly.

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