A stroll into the 19th Century
The room information at Kaya Mawa looked promising.
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"Turn your watch forward one hour and back 100 years. Likoma Island is the most remote outpost of the Malawi nation so relax and enjoy your escape from what we call the mainland."
We all got up at 05h45 and made our way to Joan's room where the morning tea was going to be served but more importantly to see the sunrise over the lake. We missed it the day before! Being on the southern tip of the island Kaya Mawa is one of the few places on Lake Malawi where you can see both sunset and sunrise.
Our plans to leave for our walk to the cathedral at 07h00 fell by the wayside when we all ordered 'the full monty' for breakfast instead of the healthy fruit and toast that we had boasted about having the night before after our 3 course dinner and wine under the stars! It is a battle of wills and once one person succumbs then we all did!!! Eggs, bacon, pancakes, French toast���� the list is endless.
We left at 08h30 with Davie as our guide carrying several bottles of ice cold water.
The walk takes about 45 mins to an hour at a leisurely place through the villages and over small hills. Likoma Island is only 7kms long and 4 kms wide and has a population of around 6000 people. The southern end is fairly flat and dry while the north is hillier and densely populated. The closer you get to the main town the more people you encounter. There were plenty of children, the bolder ones wanting to hold our hands and the shy ones running away as soon as we approached!
Early on in the walk Cristof one of my traveling companions produced a packet of balloons and showed them how to make those awful whistling sounds which provided entertainment for all including the parents close by!
Davie kept up an interesting running commentary on all the schools that we passed. The landscape is dotted with large baobab trees the most interesting being one that was overtaken by a strangler fig and has totally rotted away. Only the strangler fig is there in the shape of a baobab so we all got inside which felt like a natural thing to do!!!
What struck me most about this gentle stroll was how not how friendly the locals were- everyone in Malawi is friendly-but what an unintrusive cultural experience this is. The missionary heritage of Likoma means that nearly everyone speaks English and there are enough tourists that you are not viewed as a celebrity, but not enough that anyone modifies their behaviour at all to try to get you to part with your money. It is possible to wander into a village and start up a conversation with anyone.
We stopped en route at the tiny settlement of Khuyu and made a courtesy call on Dr. Kumpalotta, the island's only traditional healer and a man revered throughout Malawi. He is a great character with matted dreadlocks tucked into a turban and it is an interesting comment on the islander's broad minded outlook that he coexists quite happily with the Anglican churchgoers who will find nothing strange in consulting both the good Doctor and the trained medical staff at the island's only hospital.
All roads (there are 2 in total for the island's one vehicle to choose from) lead to the harbour at the little village of Chipyela where a visit to St Peters Cathedral is a must. Set above a busy traditional fishing harbour and in the middle of a simple African Village, the cathedral is impressive and incongruous in equal measure-a similar effect to driving through the most desolate part of the Namib desert to find the ornate Bavarian spires of Luderitz or seeing the huge manor house at Shiwa Ng'andu rise from the bush of Northern Zambia. Built at the turn of the 19th Century by the Universities Mission to Central Africa, it is a remarkable building which measures more than 100 meters. The crucifix above the pulpit is made out of a branch of the tree under which David Livingstone's heart is buried. The choir stalls are carved out of soapstone with elaborate designs. The sun shining through the large stained glass casts a beautiful light.
At the church we were met by the delightfully eccentric Mr. Vincent who is in his late 80's and gives you a tour of the cathedral gratis although as we found out, is not averse to a small gratuity if you have enjoyed his company-which you will. He took us all the way up into the bell tower and on to the roof for a wonderful view of the island. Strolling through the sparsely vegetated grounds of the cathedral we came across a host of crimson-rumped waxbills-this very rare bird is seen occasionally on the mainland but is best seen here on the island. When we had finished in the cathedral we wandered towards the busy beach full of fishermen cleaning their nets and as if by magic Swinson, the Kaya Mawa boatman arrived to take us back to the lodge. This 20 minute ride took the best part of an hour as we stopped off at 2 gorgeous little coves en route for a swim and a cold beer.
What a morning!!!
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Kaya Mawa Lodge - Likoma Island Malawi
Likoma Island is the larger of two small islands situated in the far north of Lake Malawi, well over on the east of the Lake and very close to the Mozambique coastline. To visit the island is to step back in time. Just 17 square kilometres with one small dirt road and two vehicles, the local people survive largely by fishing, and rice and cassava farming. The island has hundreds of huge baobab trees and a number of glorious sandy beaches and rocky coves. The waters are crystal clear throughout the year and the diving and snorkelling is among the best in Lake Malawi.
Kaya Mawa Lodge is situated on the south-western tip of the Island at the head of a crescent-shaped bay, surrounded by mango trees and ancient baobabs.
Translated as �Maybe tomorrow� in the local Tonga dialect the lodge uses the stunning natural surroundings of beach, rock, island and lake to create a lodge of unique character, imagination and very special ambience. With no machinery available on the island, Kaya Mawa Lodge was built entirely by hand, in partnership with the local community. It consists of ten stone and teak-framed thatched cottages set into a granite headland. There is a honeymoon house tucked away on its own private island that is reached by boat or a wooden walkway. Each cottage faces the lake and has a 7- by 6-foot mahogany four-poster bed, a shower, a sunken stone bathtub and a loo with a view. The view from the shower in the honeymoon suite defies description. All the cottages have private terraces with direct access to the water and some can only be reached by walkways built over the lake.
The stunning setting of the lodge and the unique comfort of the rooms means that many guests choose to make relaxation their main activity but enough activities are on offer to keep guests busy. Scuba (including Padi diving courses), snorkelling, swimming, sailing and visits to the local villages are part of the experience. Day trips to Mozambique can be arranged. Access is by air or by boat.
Climate
Likoma is the driest part of Malawi and also one of the hottest.
January/February/March: Hot days with rain often on the afternoon. The whole island becomes very lush and green and the views are fantastic. The rain dampens down the dust and puts out the fires of the late dry season and provides sparkling air and wonderful vistas of the forested shores of nearby Mozambique.
April/May: Dry warm days and pleasant cool nights with light breezes.
June/July/August: Dry with warm days and cool nights and occasional strong winds.
September/October: Hot to very hot days with warm nights.
November/December: Hot to very hot days-warn nights, perhaps some early light rain.
Accommodation
Kaya Mawa�s main building is situated high on a rocky promontory overlooking the lake and has three rooms on the lower western side of the promontory. On the long sweeping beach below and to the west of the main promontory there are another two chalets. At the far end of the beach a good 10 minute walk from the main building and set high on the rocks overlooking the bay are another two chalets. There are two rooms on their own rocky outcrops to the east of the main building. The honeymoon island is a good 50 metres out into the lake depending on prevailing water levels and is accessed by boat or by swimming.
Each room has: Raised four poster mahogany bed, sunken bath, shower and loo, fans, soaps and shampoos, outside seating area, insect repellent.
Camp
On the main promontory there is a bar, dining room and rock pool.
Activities
The stunning setting of the lodge and the unique comfort of the rooms means that many guests choose to make relaxation their main activity but enough activities are on offer to keep guests busy:
-Walking or biking around the island
-Swimming and snorkelling
-Diving Courses
-Motorized Watersports - Waterskiing, tube riding and wake snaking are offered as well as fishing trips.
-Sailing Safaris - the lodge has a small wooden skip for journeys around the island.
-Excursions to Mozambique - longer trips by motor or sailing boat to the wonderful beaches of nearby Mozambique can be arranged as well as overnight trips to Nkwichi Lodge and the Manda Wilderness area.
Suggested daily activity schedule
As this is not a game destination the activity schedule each day is very flexible. Some guests like to keep active all day long, some want to do nothing but relax on the beach and most want a balance between the two. Each day we chat to our guests and find out what they want to do from the activities available and then choose the correct schedule for them.
Meal schedule
Breakfast is usually between 07h00and 08h00 and comprises fruits, cereals, juices, tea, coffee and Full English with choice of eggs.
Lunches between 12h30 and 13h30 - usually light with fresh salads, quiches, fruit etc.
Dinners are 3 courses and served around 20h00.
Meal times are totally flexible and are set around activities-not the other way around.
Electricity and water
During daylight hours the lodge has mains electricity and this changes to solar lighting in the evening. The hot water system is from wood burning boilers-this wood comes from Mozambique and is an income generating community project. The suppliers earn income and this goes towards the upkeep of reforestation woodlots.
Extras payments
Extras can be paid for in either US$, Euros, South African Rand, British Pounds or Malawi Kwacha cash. There are no credit card facilities.
Flying times
Based on a Cessna 206 or similar, the flying times to and from Likoma are approximately as follows:
Lilongwe: 60 minutes
Chelinda Lodge Nyika: 35 minutes
Mvuu Lodge: 90 minutes
Airstrip Details
12 05 South
34 44 East
Elevation:1600 feet
Length: 800 metres
Drinks
Drinks are not included in the tariff and need to be paid for on departure.
Laundry
Laundry is free of charge and can usually be delivered back the same day.
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