Mvuu Camp/Lodge MalawiMalawi Safari Report - June 2004
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Clear blue skies, chilly mornings and all the time drying out���. By the end of June there is very little palatable grass left in Liwonde National Park. The open areas east of the Lodge have taken on the dry barren desert appearance usually only seen in the last weeks of the dry season. There is not a blade of grass left in the area, piles of elephant dung are scattered every few meters across the sandy exposed earth and the Acacia tortilis have been heavily shredded, with broken branches and strips of bark dangling from their trunks. On the night of the 12th the elephants returned to finish off a job started last November. They ate away at the scarred trunk of the Baobab in the middle of the open area, eventually toppling the massive tree bringing to an end, in a single night, what has been a feature of the landscape for hundreds of years. The hippo have given up their nightly migrations into the interior of the park and instead spend their nights grazing on the last remaining areas of grass along the edge of the marshes. The entire elephant population has moved to the river, with numerous small herds scattered from Chinguni in the south to Mvera in the north. By the end of the month most boat trips during the heat of the day were recording well over a hundred elephant in a two to three hour period. The nightly nocturnal visits to the lodge by breeding herds to feed in the lush riverine vegetation along the edge of the lagoon have once again become the norm. The Mopane leaves have started turning to a golden brown colour, carpeting the woodland floors with rich rusty colours in the late afternoon light. The water holes scattered inland have mostly died out with only a handful still supporting small muddy puddles at their centre. Towers of billowing smoke that mark the perennial bush fires that rush through the tall dry thatching grass in the east of the park have become a feature on the distant eastern horizon. Only the nightly chill in the air and crisp clear skies in the morning give any indication that the height of the dry season is still to come.
As the month progressed so the level of crocodile activity in the lagoon increased as the crocs moved into their breeding season. The large territorial male has recommenced frequent high profile patrols around the lagoon in a routine that takes him from the shallows at the eastern end of the lagoon, past the tents, below the dining area and along the edge of the walkway out to the mouth of the lagoon before looping back around close to the far bank before returning. Every few meters it surfaces, exhaling with a loud hissing noise to make sure any potential challengers are fully aware that they enter the lagoon at their peril. When not on patrol it positions itself high on the sand bank opposite tent 3 in a very impressive display of bulk and armoury, showing off assets that make it one of the most efficient predators on the planet.
The Boehm's bee eaters have started nesting and are seen in numbers perching low in the branches along the lodge pathways, before swooping on an unsuspecting insect flying past. A sharp snapping noise as the bird grabs the insect and returns to the perch to batter its victim on the branch before swallowing it whole. The persistent watcher is soon rewarded as the birds frequently return to their nests and give away the small hole in the ground with a few scratch marks around the edge of it, the only sign of activity going on below. Out along the edge of the water the usual residents ensure that any-one spending a quiet half hour in the hammocks on the tent balconies is entertained with an insight into the bustling goings on of life in the lagoon. The large open billed stork is a constant fixture, perched on one of the dead Acacia's over the water, watching life go by. The pair of fish eagles sit high in the fever trees, recording the passing of time with their echoing call that for many visitors is the signature tune of Africa. Down on the water lilies and grasses of the floating island at the lagoon edge, Black crake, Squacco and Green backed heron, Little bittern, Cattle egrets, African jacana's and numerous Weavers, Warblers and Prinia's all strive to make a living in a busy world. A rustling in the leaves under the thickets, reveals the slow methodical movements of a large monitor lizard, creeping toward the water while all the time the background melody as the robins and palm thrushes strive to out perform each other.
By the second week of the month elephant herds had arrived is such numbers along the river that it became impossible to even begin to explain to guests that two months ago we had to search far and wide to get even a glimpse of an elephant. Breeding herds appear out of the mopane woodland in the early hours of the morning, heading west to the marshes and river. They follow the tree lines along the long dry sandy river beds of the Ntangaye, Nangondo, Namandanje and Mwalasi rivers before plunging into the still waters of the lagoons at the mouths of the rivers flooded back inland from the Shire River. They spend the day light hours submerged up to their midriffs feeding in the tall reeds and marshes. The flood plain south of the Ntangaye River has become a fascinating hot spot of late afternoon activity. To the south lies large stretches of uninterrupted marsh, that comes to an abrupt halt as the tall riverine thickets along of Ntagaye River protrude right to the edge of the Shire. To the north the marshes give away to the high river banks in the area of Mvuu. Numerous herds of elephant spend the day slowly moving north through the marshes before arriving at the open flood plains of the southern Ntangaye by late afternoon. From here they rush across the open areas into the thickets to the north. Several herds often appearing at once out of the reeds, followed by the ever present wondering bulls. Huge social gatherings have been occurring at the edge of the thickets as the breeding herds meet and offer their greetings. Calves and young bulls are noisily disciplined as they get carried away in the excitement of meeting distant relatives, while the large solitary bulls use the opportunity to prove their dominance to the young bulls still attached to the breeding herds. On the evening of the 21st we parked the vehicle alongside the fever tree grove on the edge of the southern Ntangaye flood plain. In the golden light of the late afternoon we watched as five breeding herds of between 10 - 20 in each emerged out of the tall reeds in the south, hurried in close formation across the open flood plain and stop at the edge of the tree line. Three large bulls waited at the edge of the reeds to greet each herd before rushing with them across the grass plain only to return within a few minutes to disappear into the reeds of the marsh and then reappear with the next herd. Each time the young bulls of the herd were singled out for special attention. The much larger bulls place their tusks and trunk on the smaller bull's forehead letting out a screech before driving the young bull backward for ten meters or so before it broke and ran for cover in the thickets.
The buffalo herds are still out in the far north eastern sector of the park, spoor can frequently been seen in the block between the northern sanctuary fence line, East road and the Old Niafulu Hills road. There are a number of water holes in this section all of which appear to be within a few weeks of completely drying out. In the last week of the month a couple of large bush fires spread in from the eastern park boundary and burnt much of the remaining grazing in the area so I suspect the herds will be forced to move in the next few weeks. If their movement patterns from last year are repeated they should move south into the grasslands immediately to the north of the Niafulu hills where a large water hole still has some water reserves. As this too dries out they then moved further south to the Mwalasi area. Both of these areas are within striking range of our game drives so we will hopefully record an increase in sightings in the coming months.
We have opened a new game drive road, aptly named Sable road, that cuts west from east road though the cathedral Mopane woodlands to eventually emerge at Mvera drive and the Shire. Late afternoon drives along this road have provided us with some fantastic sable viewing. Several breeding herds, numbering between 50 - 80 animals, have been recorded on each drive along a grassland spur that runs along a shallow drainage line. This road has added a fantastic new dimension to the game drives by cutting right through the heartland of the sables favourite habitat and providing the sort of sable viewing previously only a feature in the last few weeks of the dry season as the sable emerge from the woodland areas to drink at the Shire.
The Kudu bulls are still in close attendance to the small breeding herds frequently seen in the thicket areas. The highlight of the month was on the 28th when the Ntagaye herd appeared out of the thickets and strode out onto the open flood plain of the southern Ntangaye. The herd is made up of three mature females, three calves from last season, a young bull of 2-3 years and closely followed by a very large bull with spiral horns that must be close to two meters towering above him. One of the females appeared to be in season and was being followed very closely by the young bull. The dominant bull looked on without showing any undue concern. We then watched for more than half an hour as the young bull repeatedly mounted the female, without even as much as a glance of protest from the large bull in attendance. Obviously it hasn't read the books about the large dominant bulls chasing the young bulls from the herd and thus preventing interbreeding.
Drives in the breeding sanctuary have remained fairly quiet with sightings of sable, Liechtenstein's hartebeest and zebra. On the 14th the scouts on an anti poaching patrol reported coming across a leopard in the vicinity of the Mwalasi river mouth. On seeing them it apparently climbed down from the tree where it was resting and disappeared into the thickets.
Night drives in the second half of the month were a bit quiet with the combination of full moon and relatively cold temperatures keeping activity to a minimum. However we got very excited on the night of the 22nd when the spotlight beam revealed the small scurrying shape of a striped polecat in the vicinity of Staff and Flycatcher road junction. The second record in two months and only one of a handful of sightings in the ten years of the lodge's existence. A pangolin was also reported in the same area from one of the drives from the camp, again a once or twice a year occurrence. Civet and porcupine have continued to show up at regular intervals and sightings of genet, thick tailed and lesser bush baby, white-tailed and marsh mongooses are frequently recorded. The jackals have moved north into the area between crocodile sandbank and Old cormorant colony and are only seen occasionally at the moment. We have been treated to some excellent owl sightings with Pel's, white-faced, barred, wood, scops, giant eagle and spotted eagle owls all been record during the month.
The activity in the breeding colony of White breasted cormorants has reached fever pitch as the huge number of chicks scream for attention from the adults returning from their fishing sorties to the north. The commotion can be heard for more than a kilometre along the river. On the afternoon of the 6th I was sitting in the vehicle on the northern banks of the lagoon watching the hive of activity in the white coated Borassus palms across the water. I noticed that one of the palms right in the middle of the colony looked strangely out of place. Its leaves were the pale green colour of the palms further down stream away from the colony. The cormorants without exception were avoiding this tree. Closer inspection revealed a much larger nest tucked in above the clumps of Borassus fruit with the unmistakable shaped head of an adult fish eagle protruded from the top of the nest. A second bird called from the dead Lead wood to the north of the lagoon and its mate in the nest responded. Completely intrigued by the bird's choice of nesting sight I settled down to watch. Sure enough within half an hour the male Fish-eagle swooped off its perch and darted into the mass confusion of Cormorants in the colony. It made two or three unsuccessful attempts to catch a fleeing cormorant in flight before settling just above its nest. On three occasions since during the month we have watched as this scene was repeated and have twice found the fish eagles feeding on cormorants. While fish eagles in general have been quite often recorded to be catching and feeding on other birds, the deliberate sighting of a nest in amongst such an abundant food source as provided in the cormorant colony is something fascinating.
We recorded a very creditable 203 species of birds during the month, with three additions to our year to date records: African Black Sunbird, Southern Banded Snake eagle and a Southern Pochard. Of the Liwonde specials Lillian's Love Birds are prolific at the moment attracted in large flocks to feed on the small orange yellow fruit clustered on the top of the Euphorbias (ingens). We have recorded Brown breasted Barbets on three occasions and were once again treated to the sight of two Pel's fishing owls roosting high in an acacia albida during an early morning walk in the southern Ntangai thickets. The group of resident Spur-wing plovers has appeared to have expanded their range with a number of sightings of a second group of up to four birds in the vicinity of Borassus palm in the north to complement the frequent sightings in the vicinity of the Ntangaye mouth to the south. We have also had some very nice late afternoon sightings of a pair of White-backed night herons in the lagoon at the cormorant colony.
Mvuu Camp is situated just south of Mvuu Lodge on the banks of the Shire River in Malawi's Liwonde National Park.
It offers a wide range of options including camping, self catering and full board rates with activities. The activities on offer are the same as Mvuu Wilderness Lodge, but the camp is better suited either to families or those on a budget as rates are very reasonable.
A particularly rewarding way of arriving at Mvuu Camp is via the boat trip from Liwonde Town. This river trip takes you 30 kilometres along the Shire offering an excellent chance to see game and birds en route and also the ever changing scenery and vegetation along the banks.
There are nine comfortable walk in tents with shared facilities and five en suite brick chalets. A large wood and thatch dining and lounge area is situated nearby and offers a magnificent view upstream to the north. There is also a specially constructed boma for dinners under the stars.
among the "specials".
Elephant and Sable Antelope occur in large numbers, as do Hippo, Crocodile, Impala and Waterbuck. Leopard, Serval and the rare Oribi may occasionally be seen. Black Rhino have been reintroduced from South Africa's Kruger National Park, as have Zebra, Lichtenstein's Hartebeest, and Buffalo from elsewhere within Malawi.
Birds are prolific, especially along the Shire River where African Fish Eagle, Palmnut Vulture, African Skimmer and Pel's Fishing Owl are fairly common. Bohm's Beeeater, Lilian's Lovebird, Bat Hawk, Livingstone's Flycatcher, Whitebacked Night Heron and Brownbreasted Barbet are among the "specials."
LOCATION
� Situated to the south of Lake Malawi in the Liwonde National Park, the camp is built overlooking the Shire River, the main drainage river from Lake Malawi.
PRICING / CHILD POLICY
High Season: July to October, Easter and Christmas
Low Season: Rest of the year
Children over the age of 8 are welcome.
ACCOMMODATION
Number of tents:
5 Tents in total consisting of:
� 4 twin bedded tents
� 1 honeymoon tent with bath
� Guides/tour leaders accommodated in guest accommodation if available otherwise in staff quarters
This camp can accommodate ten guests; larger groups can also be accommodated in the nearby Mvuu Camp which sleeps up to 36 guests.
Tent details:
� Private veranda overlooking secluded lagoon
� En-suite facilities with a shower
� Tents are mosquito proofed
� Soaps, shampoos and insect repellents are supplied in each room
CAMP DESCRIPTION
Communal Area:
� Dining room and pub under thatch
� Swimming pool
GAME VIEWING
Superb area for Elephant, Hippo and Crocodile during the drier months in the middle of the year. Kudu, Sable, Impala, Waterbuck and Warthog are seen as well as Serval, Civet, Mongoose and Genets on night drives. Baboon, Vervet Monkeys, Bushbuck, Oribi, Leopard, Lion and Bush pig are also found and the birdlife is spectacular all year - Boems Bee-eater.
ACTIVITIES
� Game drives in 1 x 10 seater vehicle
� Night drives
� Boating in 1 x 10 seater safari boat
� Walks with experienced guides
� River Safaris
� The highlight here is superb river cruises where guests may get close to Hippos, Crocodile and wonderful birdlife. There is a Black Rhino re-introduction program and it is possible (with special permission) to visit the Rhino sanctuary in the park, which also contains Liechtenstein's Hartebeest and Buffalo.
SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE
Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.
06h00 Game Walk
07h00 Breakfast
08h00 Boat safari
12h00 Lunch
16h00 Game Drive
19h00 Dinner, table d' h�te or occasionally curry buffet or braai (barbecue)
ELECTRICITY & WATER
� 220v generator
� 12v solar for lights in the tents
� No plugs in the tents but can use plugs at reception if necessary
DRINKS POLICY
Drinks are not included in the nightly tariff and are charged to the guests account.
LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service, included in the nightly tariff
EXTRAS PAYMENT
Payment can be affected by cash or the following credit cards: Visa, MasterCard and American Express.
FLYING TIMES
To/from Lilongwe 55 minutes
To/from Blantyre 40 minutes
To/from Club Makalolo 20 minutes
AIRSTRIP DETAILS
Mvuu (Makanga)
Airstrip co-ordinates:
S 14.15, E35.18
1000m long
GRATUITY SCHEDULE
The following is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards:
Guides - US$5.00 per person per day
General Camp Staff - US$3.00 per person per day
Specialist Guides (if applicable) - US$10.00 per person per day
*`�*-.,_,.-*`�*-.,_,.-*�
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Malawi Guest Trip Report
David Chamberlain
vacationtechnician.com
Dear David,
I am trying to send you my feedback now, but it is very difficult as everything was perfect.
Lilongwe: Mr. Zack was the first person whom we met and he was so friendly. He organised everything for us and even cleared my chaos as we returned (I lost my boarding card!).
Heuglins: Lovely Tammy, heartily and sweet, wonderful accommodation and food! What was the building used for in former days?
Mvuu Lodge: Richard was so nice, he did everything for us, we had a different schedule every day, we visited the school, went up by speed boat to Lake Malombe, had breakfast in the bush etc. I think you know the lodge there. For me it was the one with the most "heart", the scenery, the tents, the inside of the tents, the welcome letter, the good-bye hippo, the friendly staff etc. etc. I just felt at home there and I was very sad to leave. Thank you again for offering this destination.
Transfer in Malawi: Private charter with Frank, punctual and a wonderful scenic flight underneath the clouds.
Kafunta: First a little disappointment, so big and "civilised" after Mvuu. But then we felt very comfortable too and were able to love the incredible view ! Tourists not so "serious" as in Mvuu.
Ron and Greg took us and 2 other visitors to the Island Bush Camp, it was wonderful. We did a lot of hiking, no buffalos or lions (Thank God for it!). Very well organised, we always had tea and sundowner in the bush, crossed the Lunga River barefoot and other adventures.
Suggestion: 2 nights after the bush in the lodge would be better, you can have your laundry done and relax a little bit because it was very strenuous (long trip during the day).
Transfer flight to Lower Zambesi was changed, we flew early in the morning and had to change planes in Lusaka. Usually we were a bit worried because nobody was able to tell us which plane we should catch in Lusaka but stuff from Airwaves did everything for us and we had just a brake for the toilet.
Lower Zambesi: Thanks god, only 2 nights in Sausage Tree! But wait a moment, I will explain.Transfer was by boat what we really enjoyed after all the driving in Kafunta. They kept us in Sausage Tree for lunch and a little rest and in the afternoon we arrived in Old Mondoro. There was no manager there, just Andrew our guide and the staff did everything perfect, just themselves, amazing! I really loved it there, we had the elephants crossing the river, only 2 or 4 guests, a wonderful scenery (have you ever been there? The woods are like in a fairy tale there!), beautiful walks and game drives and a really bush atmosphere!
The transfer to Sausage Tree was a game drive and we were able to realize the change of the vegetation and scenery. Great!
Sausage Tree: No critics at all but not what I expected! After this incredible trip with just a few guests the 14 tourist in Sausage Tree nearly "killed" us. Mostly English because of the BBC report I think the majority of them didn`t go there because of the bush but because it is a "must" and many of them felt very proud of being in a camp which was on TV! We were used to serious and interested safari guests who always were punctual. In Sausage Tree we always were delayed because people didn`t come in time. Nevertheless Kelly did a great job and organised a schedule for everybody.
So Mvuu was more and Sausage Tree was less of what I expected, but no critic at all! Maybe there is more tourism in the Lower Zambesi NP because of the Vic Falls. People visit the Falls and the park and then fly to Mauritius and so the 2 other places were more authentic for us.
Lusaka: Our pilot found the Holiday Inn shuttle bus for us and helped us with our luggage. In the hotel we were informed that we had a private transfer back to the airport, I think you booked us as VIPs everywhere?!
We went shopping there. As they changed our schedule in Mfuwe we only had 15 minutes for Tribal Textiles which I really regretted as I would have been interested in the production. But you can`t get everything! So Kelley wrote us down some markets in Lusaka where we were able to do our shopping. And as this was our "hippo Holiday" I bought a really big one (15 kgs!) which I packed in a new backpack and it arrived here! I am very happy because it is standing in front of our front door and is reminding me of this incredible trip. By the way I named it Richard!
Thank you very much for this perfect and well done organisation, I doubt if such a trip would be possible in Europe! I hope I can afford a trip sometimes again, my biggest wish is to go to the bush with my husband. But he can`t take any malaria prophylaxis so we won`t risk it. But if I could, I would take him to the Mvuu Lodge!
I hope that we keep contact somehow and I hope Ursula will send her feedback too. But no complaints from her either!
Thanks again for having organised and booked this wonderful trip for us and greetings to everybody I mentioned.
Many greetings from Austria.
Yours,
Martina
Mvuu Camp is situated just south of Mvuu Lodge on the banks of the Shire River in Malawi's Liwonde National Park.
It offers a wide range of options including camping, self catering and full board rates with activities. The activities on offer are the same as Mvuu Wilderness Lodge, but the camp is better suited either to families or those on a budget as rates are very reasonable.
A particularly rewarding way of arriving at Mvuu Camp is via the boat trip from Liwonde Town. This river trip takes you 30 kilometres along the Shire offering an excellent chance to see game and birds en route and also the ever changing scenery and vegetation along the banks.
There are nine comfortable walk in tents with shared facilities and five en suite brick chalets. A large wood and thatch dining and lounge area is situated nearby and offers a magnificent view upstream to the north. There is also a specially constructed boma for dinners under the stars.
among the "specials".
Elephant and Sable Antelope occur in large numbers, as do Hippo, Crocodile, Impala and Waterbuck. Leopard, Serval and the rare Oribi may occasionally be seen. Black Rhino have been reintroduced from South Africa's Kruger National Park, as have Zebra, Lichtenstein's Hartebeest, and Buffalo from elsewhere within Malawi.
Birds are prolific, especially along the Shire River where African Fish Eagle, Palmnut Vulture, African Skimmer and Pel's Fishing Owl are fairly common. Bohm's Beeeater, Lilian's Lovebird, Bat Hawk, Livingstone's Flycatcher, Whitebacked Night Heron and Brownbreasted Barbet are among the "specials".
LOCATION� Situated to the south of Lake Malawi in the Liwonde National Park, the camp is built overlooking the Shire River, the main drainage river from Lake Malawi.
PRICING / CHILD POLICY
High Season: July to October, Easter and Christmas
Low Season: Rest of the year
Children over the age of 8 are welcome.
ACCOMMODATION
Number of tents:
5 Tents in total consisting of:
� 4 twin bedded tents
� 1 honeymoon tent with bath
� Guides/tour leaders accommodated in guest accommodation if available otherwise in staff quarters
This camp can accommodate ten guests; larger groups can also be accommodated in the nearby Mvuu Camp which sleeps up to 36 guests.
Tent details:� Private veranda overlooking secluded lagoon
� En-suite facilities with a shower
� Tents are mosquito proofed
� Soaps, shampoos and insect repellents are supplied in each room
CAMP DESCRIPTION
Communal Area:
� Dining room and pub under thatch
� Swimming pool
GAME VIEWING
Superb area for Elephant, Hippo and Crocodile during the drier months in the middle of the year. Kudu, Sable, Impala, Waterbuck and Warthog are seen as well as Serval, Civet, Mongoose and Genets on night drives. Baboon, Vervet Monkeys, Bushbuck, Oribi, Leopard, Lion and Bush pig are also found and the birdlife is spectacular all year - Boems Bee-eater.
ACTIVITIES� Game drives in 1 x 10 seater vehicle
� Night drives
� Boating in 1 x 10 seater safari boat
� Walks with experienced guides
� River Safaris
� The highlight here is superb river cruises where guests may get close to Hippos, Crocodile and wonderful birdlife. There is a Black Rhino re-introduction program and it is possible (with special permission) to visit the Rhino sanctuary in the park, which also contains Liechtenstein's Hartebeest and Buffalo.
SUGGESTED DAILY ACTIVITY SCHEDULE
Below is only a suggestion as to what may happen in camp - as daily wildlife sightings tend to throw the schedule right out of schedule.
06h00 Game Walk
07h00 Breakfast
08h00 Boat safari
12h00 Lunch
16h00 Game Drive
19h00 Dinner, table d' h�te or occasionally curry buffet or braai (barbecue)
ELECTRICITY & WATER� 220v generator
� 12v solar for lights in the tents
� No plugs in the tents but can use plugs at reception if necessary
DRINKS POLICY
Drinks are not included in the nightly tariff and are charged to the guests account.
LAUNDRY POLICY
Daily service, included in the nightly tariff
EXTRAS PAYMENT
Payment can be affected by cash or the following credit cards: Visa, MasterCard and American Express.
FLYING TIMES
To/from Lilongwe 55 minutes
To/from Blantyre 40 minutes
To/from Club Makalolo 20 minutes
AIRSTRIP DETAILS
Mvuu (Makanga)
Airstrip co-ordinates:
S 14.15, E35.18
1000m long
GRATUITY SCHEDULE
The following is the suggested gratuity schedule only and is subject to service standards:
Guides - US$5.00 per person per day
General Camp Staff - US$3.00 per person per day
Specialist Guides (if applicable) - US$10.00 per person per day
*`�*-.,_,.-*`�*-.,_,.-*�
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.
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A stroll into the 19th Century
The room information at Kaya Mawa looked promising.
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Learn more about Malawi here.
"Turn your watch forward one hour and back 100 years. Likoma Island is the most remote outpost of the Malawi nation so relax and enjoy your escape from what we call the mainland."
We all got up at 05h45 and made our way to Joan's room where the morning tea was going to be served but more importantly to see the sunrise over the lake. We missed it the day before! Being on the southern tip of the island Kaya Mawa is one of the few places on Lake Malawi where you can see both sunset and sunrise.
Our plans to leave for our walk to the cathedral at 07h00 fell by the wayside when we all ordered 'the full monty' for breakfast instead of the healthy fruit and toast that we had boasted about having the night before after our 3 course dinner and wine under the stars! It is a battle of wills and once one person succumbs then we all did!!! Eggs, bacon, pancakes, French toast���� the list is endless.
We left at 08h30 with Davie as our guide carrying several bottles of ice cold water.
The walk takes about 45 mins to an hour at a leisurely place through the villages and over small hills. Likoma Island is only 7kms long and 4 kms wide and has a population of around 6000 people. The southern end is fairly flat and dry while the north is hillier and densely populated. The closer you get to the main town the more people you encounter. There were plenty of children, the bolder ones wanting to hold our hands and the shy ones running away as soon as we approached!
Early on in the walk Cristof one of my traveling companions produced a packet of balloons and showed them how to make those awful whistling sounds which provided entertainment for all including the parents close by!
Davie kept up an interesting running commentary on all the schools that we passed. The landscape is dotted with large baobab trees the most interesting being one that was overtaken by a strangler fig and has totally rotted away. Only the strangler fig is there in the shape of a baobab so we all got inside which felt like a natural thing to do!!!
What struck me most about this gentle stroll was how not how friendly the locals were- everyone in Malawi is friendly-but what an unintrusive cultural experience this is. The missionary heritage of Likoma means that nearly everyone speaks English and there are enough tourists that you are not viewed as a celebrity, but not enough that anyone modifies their behaviour at all to try to get you to part with your money. It is possible to wander into a village and start up a conversation with anyone.
We stopped en route at the tiny settlement of Khuyu and made a courtesy call on Dr. Kumpalotta, the island's only traditional healer and a man revered throughout Malawi. He is a great character with matted dreadlocks tucked into a turban and it is an interesting comment on the islander's broad minded outlook that he coexists quite happily with the Anglican churchgoers who will find nothing strange in consulting both the good Doctor and the trained medical staff at the island's only hospital.
All roads (there are 2 in total for the island's one vehicle to choose from) lead to the harbour at the little village of Chipyela where a visit to St Peters Cathedral is a must. Set above a busy traditional fishing harbour and in the middle of a simple African Village, the cathedral is impressive and incongruous in equal measure-a similar effect to driving through the most desolate part of the Namib desert to find the ornate Bavarian spires of Luderitz or seeing the huge manor house at Shiwa Ng'andu rise from the bush of Northern Zambia. Built at the turn of the 19th Century by the Universities Mission to Central Africa, it is a remarkable building which measures more than 100 meters. The crucifix above the pulpit is made out of a branch of the tree under which David Livingstone's heart is buried. The choir stalls are carved out of soapstone with elaborate designs. The sun shining through the large stained glass casts a beautiful light.
At the church we were met by the delightfully eccentric Mr. Vincent who is in his late 80's and gives you a tour of the cathedral gratis although as we found out, is not averse to a small gratuity if you have enjoyed his company-which you will. He took us all the way up into the bell tower and on to the roof for a wonderful view of the island. Strolling through the sparsely vegetated grounds of the cathedral we came across a host of crimson-rumped waxbills-this very rare bird is seen occasionally on the mainland but is best seen here on the island. When we had finished in the cathedral we wandered towards the busy beach full of fishermen cleaning their nets and as if by magic Swinson, the Kaya Mawa boatman arrived to take us back to the lodge. This 20 minute ride took the best part of an hour as we stopped off at 2 gorgeous little coves en route for a swim and a cold beer.
What a morning!!!
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Kaya Mawa Lodge - Likoma Island Malawi
Likoma Island is the larger of two small islands situated in the far north of Lake Malawi, well over on the east of the Lake and very close to the Mozambique coastline. To visit the island is to step back in time. Just 17 square kilometres with one small dirt road and two vehicles, the local people survive largely by fishing, and rice and cassava farming. The island has hundreds of huge baobab trees and a number of glorious sandy beaches and rocky coves. The waters are crystal clear throughout the year and the diving and snorkelling is among the best in Lake Malawi.
Kaya Mawa Lodge is situated on the south-western tip of the Island at the head of a crescent-shaped bay, surrounded by mango trees and ancient baobabs.
Translated as �Maybe tomorrow� in the local Tonga dialect the lodge uses the stunning natural surroundings of beach, rock, island and lake to create a lodge of unique character, imagination and very special ambience. With no machinery available on the island, Kaya Mawa Lodge was built entirely by hand, in partnership with the local community. It consists of ten stone and teak-framed thatched cottages set into a granite headland. There is a honeymoon house tucked away on its own private island that is reached by boat or a wooden walkway. Each cottage faces the lake and has a 7- by 6-foot mahogany four-poster bed, a shower, a sunken stone bathtub and a loo with a view. The view from the shower in the honeymoon suite defies description. All the cottages have private terraces with direct access to the water and some can only be reached by walkways built over the lake.
The stunning setting of the lodge and the unique comfort of the rooms means that many guests choose to make relaxation their main activity but enough activities are on offer to keep guests busy. Scuba (including Padi diving courses), snorkelling, swimming, sailing and visits to the local villages are part of the experience. Day trips to Mozambique can be arranged. Access is by air or by boat.
Climate
Likoma is the driest part of Malawi and also one of the hottest.
January/February/March: Hot days with rain often on the afternoon. The whole island becomes very lush and green and the views are fantastic. The rain dampens down the dust and puts out the fires of the late dry season and provides sparkling air and wonderful vistas of the forested shores of nearby Mozambique.
April/May: Dry warm days and pleasant cool nights with light breezes.
June/July/August: Dry with warm days and cool nights and occasional strong winds.
September/October: Hot to very hot days with warm nights.
November/December: Hot to very hot days-warn nights, perhaps some early light rain.
Accommodation
Kaya Mawa�s main building is situated high on a rocky promontory overlooking the lake and has three rooms on the lower western side of the promontory. On the long sweeping beach below and to the west of the main promontory there are another two chalets. At the far end of the beach a good 10 minute walk from the main building and set high on the rocks overlooking the bay are another two chalets. There are two rooms on their own rocky outcrops to the east of the main building. The honeymoon island is a good 50 metres out into the lake depending on prevailing water levels and is accessed by boat or by swimming.
Each room has: Raised four poster mahogany bed, sunken bath, shower and loo, fans, soaps and shampoos, outside seating area, insect repellent.
Camp
On the main promontory there is a bar, dining room and rock pool.
Activities
The stunning setting of the lodge and the unique comfort of the rooms means that many guests choose to make relaxation their main activity but enough activities are on offer to keep guests busy:
-Walking or biking around the island
-Swimming and snorkelling
-Diving Courses
-Motorized Watersports - Waterskiing, tube riding and wake snaking are offered as well as fishing trips.
-Sailing Safaris - the lodge has a small wooden skip for journeys around the island.
-Excursions to Mozambique - longer trips by motor or sailing boat to the wonderful beaches of nearby Mozambique can be arranged as well as overnight trips to Nkwichi Lodge and the Manda Wilderness area.
Suggested daily activity schedule
As this is not a game destination the activity schedule each day is very flexible. Some guests like to keep active all day long, some want to do nothing but relax on the beach and most want a balance between the two. Each day we chat to our guests and find out what they want to do from the activities available and then choose the correct schedule for them.
Meal schedule
Breakfast is usually between 07h00and 08h00 and comprises fruits, cereals, juices, tea, coffee and Full English with choice of eggs.
Lunches between 12h30 and 13h30 - usually light with fresh salads, quiches, fruit etc.
Dinners are 3 courses and served around 20h00.
Meal times are totally flexible and are set around activities-not the other way around.
Electricity and water
During daylight hours the lodge has mains electricity and this changes to solar lighting in the evening. The hot water system is from wood burning boilers-this wood comes from Mozambique and is an income generating community project. The suppliers earn income and this goes towards the upkeep of reforestation woodlots.
Extras payments
Extras can be paid for in either US$, Euros, South African Rand, British Pounds or Malawi Kwacha cash. There are no credit card facilities.
Flying times
Based on a Cessna 206 or similar, the flying times to and from Likoma are approximately as follows:
Lilongwe: 60 minutes
Chelinda Lodge Nyika: 35 minutes
Mvuu Lodge: 90 minutes
Airstrip Details
12 05 South
34 44 East
Elevation:1600 feet
Length: 800 metres
Drinks
Drinks are not included in the tariff and need to be paid for on departure.
Laundry
Laundry is free of charge and can usually be delivered back the same day.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.
Safari Field Reports
About The VacationTechnician Company
The VacationTechnician Company Conservation Campaign
TOP TEN SAFARI RECOMMENDATIONS
#1: Best all-round safari: Jacana Safari, Botswana. Excellent choice for first safari, also ideal for single travelers as there is no single supplement if you are �willing to share�. The group of no more than 8 has 100% exclusivity in all camps.
# 2: Best �Ultimate Safari� experience: Best of Southern Africa flying safari. Traveling by private dedicated aircraft between premier camps in best areas of 4 countries (Namibia, Botswana, Zambia & Zimbabwe). Excellent review by Travel Editor of New York Times who took this trip in May 2003.
#3: Best value for money: Zimbabwe fly-in safari. The Wilderness Safaris camps in Zimbabwe are being filled by savvy Africa travelers who know that it is during these times that one enjoys the finest wildlife encounters, at attractive prices.
# 4: Best �active� safari: Rhino Safari, Zimbabwe: game drives, foot safaris with best-qualified guides in Africa (Zimbabwe full pro guides); tracking rhino on foot, boating on Lake Kariba, canoeing on Lower Zambezi River, and more.
# 5: Best �new� trip for 2004: Gorilla treks in Rwanda are back!
#6: Best combination of two countries: Botswana and Namibia. Botswana has lots of opportunities for game-viewing, the incomparable Okavango Delta and it combines perfectly with Namibia�s desert and dune experience.
#7: Most unusual destination: Madagascar. Adorable lemurs, amazing people, strange spiny forests, always the unexpected. Just don�t expect everything to work 100%�
#8: Trip most likely to be a �life-changing� event: Mana Canoe Trail, Zimbabwe.
#9: Best honeymoon destination: North Island, Seychelles. No question.
#10: �Best kept secret� safari area: Mashatu Game Reserve, Tuli Block. Too many of our clients return from Mashatu with multiple leopard sightings or other fabulous game-viewing experiences for this area to remain �undiscovered� for long.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
"When my mother took me to Botswana and Zimbabwe in 2001, I fully expected it to be the "trip of a lifetime," never imagining that I would become so passionate about Africa, needing to return every year. So, yes, Africa is the best vacation place I've ever been. Why?
First and foremost -seeing the wild animals in their natural habitat. I have had a lifelong love for animals and have refused to set foot in zoos for over 30 years.
I can't begin to describe the thrill when first seeing a herd of elephants on the shore of the Gache Gache River in Zimbabwe. Or, getting within five feet of the mountain gorillas in Uganda. For me, NOTHING can compare to those experiences.
I think, for me, Africa provides an experience that is so profoundly different from my day-to-day existence. I live in San Francisco and have lived here, in the heart of the city, for my entire adult life. While I've visited Paris, London, Rome, Florence, Venice, Brussels, New York, which all have their individual charm and beauty and excitement, they are, for me, just variations of all major cities.
It was not until I visited Africa that I realized that I am no longer intrigued or even interested in spending my vacations that way--running around a city, going to museums, hanging out in cafes, finding restaurants, shopping, etc. etc. I can do all that home.
Africa allows me to just be....I am forced to relax and just look and listen and smell...No other place on earth provides that type of serenity".
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"The answer to the question for me is absolutely, completely, whole-heartedly, YES.
I have been completely around the world over a period of 2 years, years ago.
Went from east to west (starting in the states and then Hawaii, Japan etc.). Other times I have visited and lived in several countries.
Out of all of these, Africa is my favorite. Africa is special.
Outside of Africa, the country that makes the deepest impression is India, however I will never consider it a holiday - it is an experience. Some favorite cities - Kyoto, London. Crete was a wonderful holiday location.
But for me, an animal lover, everything pales compared to Africa.
-Waking up in the bush and wondering what wonderful animals I'll see today...?
-Heading out to a new camp and wondering what interesting people I'll meet.
Typically when we travel in other places we don't meet a lot of new people, at least not long enough to have a two-hour dinner conversation.
Wonderful, adventurous people that are also traveling and kind gentle people who live in Africa. I just feel that traveling in Africa was like nothing else I had done before and yes, it meant so much to me that I wish everyone I know could experience it.
I never felt so alive as I did there".
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
A Rhino in Botswana's Okavango Delta sizes up vacationtechnician wildlife-watchers. "Safaris might be the key to winning the conservation battle in Africa," says Colin Bell, whose company won the World Legacy Award in the Nature Travel category.
On June 8, 2004, at National Geographic's Washington, D.C., headquarters, Queen Noor of Jordan is scheduled to again present the World Legacy Awards (WLA) for sustainable tourism�a joint program of National Geographic Traveler magazine and Conservation International (www.wlaward.org).
Queen Noor presided over the first WLA ceremony last year, announcing winners in three categories: Nature Travel, Heritage Tourism, and Destination Stewardship. Each winner works to protect the natural and cultural quality of the places we visit, supports local communities, and gives us lasting travel memories.
This week, in anticipation of the 2004 ceremony, we present the winners of 2003 as described in Traveler (September 2003), starting with the Nature
Wilderness Safaris, Southern Africa
"To me, there is no more uplifting, inspirational, or educational form of travel than a safari," Colin Bell, founder of Wilderness Safaris, tells me. So I'm learning in northern Namibia at the company's Skeleton Coast Camp, a 600,000-acre (240,000-hectare) reserve, one of 44 eco-friendly Wilderness Safari camps in seven African countries. The experience is more than just touring Earth's oldest desert (55 million years) with sand dunes that vibrate and hum under the chilly Atlantic winds. It's more than tracking springbok and desert elephant; more than combing beaches flecked with garnet, agate, and diamond; more even than visiting the nomadic Himba to witness their centuries-old way of life. It's complete immersion in the large, fantastic world of the desert.
When I ask if any industrial use threatens this land, our amiable guide, Douw Steyn, says, "Yes. It's widely used in the tourist trade." He shows us a gravel plain lacerated by the truck tires of joyriding tourists, saying the tracks will take a century or more to disappear. Southern Africa-based Wilderness Safaris, by contrast, has built its reputation on minimizing tourism damage and maximizing its benefits to both people and nature.
At the Mombo Camp in Botswana's Okavango Delta, for instance, my gin and tonic came with a slide show on the Wilderness Safaris backed rhino reintroduction program here. Poachers eradicated rhinos here in the early 1980s, but now 21 white rhinos nibble about. On a walking safari at Jao Camp, also in the Okavango, local guide Frank Mashebe thrilled guests by unlocking the secrets of�of all things�termite mounds. (They have an air-conditioning system, for instance).
Wilderness Safaris won its award partly because it hires, trains, and promotes talented locals like Mashebe. At Botswana's Savuti Camp, another skilled guide, Benson Siyawareva, tracked down the rare African wild dog, or "painted wolf." Only 5,000 or so still roam, but he finds a pack of 16�the gift of conservation.
"Our conservation ethic and community-based tourism model have resulted in threatened land becoming protected," Bell tells me. "And our Children in the Wilderness project, which has given week-long safaris to a thousand underprivileged African children, should help create the next generation of African conservationists."
For more information book via safari specialists such as New York-based vacationtechnician.com.
Watch for the Heritage Tourism winner in two weeks, and the announcement of the 2004 World Legacy winners on June 8.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
PHOTOGRAPHY
The choice of the correct camera equipment and film will determine the quality of your photographs on the trip. For good photography of birds and animals, a good SLR camera and telephoto lens is necessary. A zoom lens can be extremely useful on safari and the minimum recommended size is 200mm.
Consideration should be given before travelling with any lens bigger than 400 mm as most interesting shots are taken using hand held equipment. The new high-resolution digital cameras are outstanding and give great quality images, especially if you are using a digital camera body which takes normal camera lenses. Camera bodies like the Canon D60 and 1D are superb. The advantage of digital photography is that one can get instant feedback and adjustments can be made in the field to your techniques to ensure that your photographs are the quality that you would like. Color reversal film (slides) will give far better quality than prints.
Our guides have found that they are getting the best results using Fuji film. Fuji has brought out a good high-speed film that gives good color with very little grain (less so than any of their competitors). This is especially useful when using a big lens in low light situations. The guides' personal preference is the slower film (either 50 or 100 ASA) as this gives almost perfect quality for normal light. However, you may consider going to 200 ASA for a larger lens in low lighting conditions. The new Fuji 400, we believe is giving great results too.
The only disadvantage with the low ASA film is that you need a tripod for the early morning and evening shots.
IMPORTANT: BRING SPARE FILM (ALTHOUGH IT IS AVAILABLE IN MOST CAMPS/LODGES) AND A SPARE CAMERA BATTERY.
PASSPORTS & VISAS
International visitors require a valid passport together with onward travel documents. All passport holders should verify with vacationtechnician or relevant consulate concerning visa entry requirements. If you are extending your journey to other countries, please establish entry requirements for those countries as well. Please ensure that you have all the necessary visas prior to departure (unless available on entry).
VIDEO
Charging facilities for video cameras are very limited on the safari, so please bring enough batteries to last you at least 3 days of video filming. If you have a 12V charging pack which can be connected to the vehicle via the cigarette lighter, you may be able to charge your battery when it is travelling on the longer drives. Please bring your own attachment to connect your charger or video to the cigarette lighter.
WALKING
Walking is not allowed in the Chobe National Park nor the Moremi Game Reserve. It is allowed outside these reserves including much of the Okavango Delta. Walking can, however, lead to encounters with potentially dangerous WILD ANIMALS. Walking is, therefore, at your own risk. Never walk around unescorted.
DRIVING CONDITIONS
If visiting remote areas or national parks and reserves, the roads could be rough and bumpy and occasionally we will travel "off road", where it is possible that injuries may occur - if for example a hidden pothole is struck. Neither the vacationtechnician nor our staff members, associates nor agents can be held liable for any accidents or any damages!
RESPECTING WILDLIFE & SAFETY WHEN STAYING AT SAFARI CAMPS/LODGES
The wild animals are not like those found in theme parks They are not tame.
Most of the safari camps are unfenced and dangerous animals can (and do!) wander through the camps. Many of the animals and reptiles you will see are potentially dangerous. Attacks by wild animals are rare. However, there are no guarantees that such incidents will not occur. vacationtechnician, our staff members, associates, agents, or their suppliers can be held liable for any injuries caused during an incident involving the behaviour of wild animals.
Please listen to the camp staff and guides. The safety precautions need to be taken seriously, and strictly adhered to.
Do not go wandering off on your own without a guide -even to your tent.
After retiring to your tent at night, don't leave the tent!
Observe animals silently and with a minimum of disturbance to their natural activities. Loud talking on game drives can frighten the animals away.
Never attempt to attract an animal's attention. Don't imitate animal sounds, clap your hands, pound the vehicle or throw objects.
Please respect your driver-guide's judgment about proximity to lions, cheetahs and leopards. Don't insist that he take the vehicle closer so you can get a better photograph. A vehicle driven too close can hinder a hunt or cause animals to abandon a hard-earned meal.
Litter tossed on the ground can choke or poison animals and birds and is unsightly.
Never attempt to feed or approach any wild animal on foot. This is especially important near lodges or in campsites where animals may have become accustomed to human visitors.
Refrain from smoking on game drives. The dry African bush ignites very easily, and a flash fire can kill animals.
SATELLITE & IRIDIUM TELEPHONES
Telecommunications in the urban areas are easily accessible but please note that the campsites you may be visiting could be located in very remote parts of Southern Africa and do not have telephones.
An increasing number of guests have been bringing satellite phones along with them on safari. As most people come on safari to get away from it all, we feel that we must set some limitations on the use of these phones when on safari. We suggest the following guidelines on the use of satellite phones:
1. Please ensure the ring tone is kept at a low volume to avoid disturbing other guests.
2. Please use your phone in the privacy of your tent and not any of the common areas: dining area, bar/lounge area, or on any of the vehicles or on game drives.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Catamaran Sailing Africa's Third Largest Lake
Recently "Mufasa" set off on her first exploratory voyage up the north, eastern shores of Lake Malawi, into Mozambique and Tanzanian waters. The yacht sailed up to Likoma Island, and we flew into Likoma, met the yacht there, and then carried on sailing North.
Our first port of call was Mbamba Bay, a very lovely little cove where we anchored down overnight. Next, onto Manda Bay, where the legendary story is told of how the first naval battle of world war 1 took place there. We sailed further north, arriving at Cape Kaiser and onto Lupingu, which is the site of an old monestry. The church is still functioning, but the monastry although well maintained, is empty. This far North, the majestic Livingstone Mountains form cliffs right down into the lake - quite spectacular.
We tried to enter the largest river which flows into the lake at Kathunga - the Ruhuhu River. No sooner had we stared along the river, when we hit a sand bank! Fortunately, "Mufasa" has a very shallow draft, and we managed to get out of the river and back onto the lake. We plan to try this again after the rains, and push through into the interior.
Heading back south, we stopped at Luili Mission and Papia Island. Here, in the centre of the bay is a landmark known as the sphinx. It is a huge rock, which stands regally looking out, exactly like a sphinx. We anchored down and did some snorkeling and scuba diving in the area. Some of our brave-hearted crew climbed the Sphinx and took a leap of faith into the water, after establishing that it was deep enough, and rock free below. We estimate the climb up his huge rock is equivalent of a four story building.
Sailing south we stopped at the skull shaped Mehlsaeka rocks. This area has an eerie feeling about it, a cold chill in the shadows of the cliffs, and we felt a need to move on. Our journey concluded with a return to Mbamba Bay, and then a beautiful sail back to Likoma Island. This ended a wonderful 6 nights on board "Mufasa", sailing into new territory and enjoying the comfort and luxury "Mufasa" offers. We relaxed at Kaya Mawa for a day, before taking our charter flight out.
We will be sailing these waters again during 2004 and beyond. vacationtechnician has an exciting itinerary entitled "Ultimate Lake Malawi Safari", which incorporates a stay at Kayak Africa, the fantastic live-aboard experience on "Mufasa" sailing up North, and stopping off for a few nights at Mchenga Nkwichi in Mozambique, Kaya Mawa on Likoma Island, exploring some of the bays mentioned in this update, and then a couple of nights at Chinteche before taking a road transfer back to Lilongwe.
Lake Malawi is Africa's third largest lake and stretches over 500 kilometres from North to South, and supports over 2000 species of fish, many endemic.
Palm fringed beaches and soaring mountains surround the warm crystal clear waters and picturesque fishing villages dot the shoreline, unchanged for thousands of years.
The northern lakeshore is the lushest region of the country with remnant patches of tropical rainforest and the dramatic backdrop of the Viphya mountains. This is the setting for Chintheche Inn.
Just south of Nkhata Bay, Chintheche Inn has a wonderful broad sandy beach and extensive grounds with many fine indigenous trees.
The Inn has 10 double rooms that open out onto the beach and are all brightly furnished using local crafts. All rooms are en suite with fans.
There is a central dining area and a swimming pool for those days when the lake is rough.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.