Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe - With a name like that, one would think this town would have no trouble attracting tourists. After all, Victoria Falls, the town, is cheek-by-jowl with Victoria Falls, the waterfall - a jaw-dropping, heart-stopping torrent one mile wide and 300 feet high, its constant roar audible for a mile or more, its towering cloud of spray visible from the farthest horizon. Mere words do not do justice to Victoria Falls. One must see it to appreciate it.
Where better to start to see the waterfall than Victoria Falls, the town? Until lately, the answer was "nowhere."
In the contest for falls-hungry tourists, Victoria Falls towered over its only rival, Livingstone, just across the broad Zambezi River in Zambia. Lively Vic Falls embraced everyone from backpackers to jet-setters; bungee-jumpers to golfers. Livingstone, disheveled and sedentary, had some historic cachet: it is named after the explorer David Livingstone, the first European to see the falls. But for tourists, it was an afterthought. Then Zimbabwe imploded. And the tables turned.
Suddenly, prosaic Livingstone is hot, jamming visitors into new four-star hotels and river's-edge lodges, bursting with upscale craft and souvenir shops, clubs and casinos. Victoria Falls is not. "There's just no one coming here," a disconsolate businessman said, a conclusion borne out by even a brief stroll in the deserted shopping district. Since early 2000, when squatters began occupying that nation's white-owned farms in what would become a wholesale seizure of commercial farmland, tourism in Zimbabwe has hit the skids. Things grew worse in 2002, after President Robert G. Mugabe was re-elected in balloting marred by widespread violence. It deepened further last year, as inflation roared past 600 percent and fuel shortages became pervasive.
In truth, Zimbabwe's violence and repression have largely passed by Victoria Falls. The region is so solidly in the camp of Mr. Mugabe's political opponents - and such an important source of scarce hard currency - that the government has avoided measures seen in other opposition centers, like the invasions of pro-government youth militia, which might scare tourists away.
But Zimbabwe's reputation has grown increasingly ugly, especially among tourists from members of the Commonwealth nations, mostly former British possessions. Mr. Mugabe quit the Commonwealth in December after it refused to lift its suspension of Zimbabwe in protest of the nation's human rights policies.
One hotelier in Victoria Falls, who refused to be identified for fear of retaliation, said tourist traffic from Europe and the United States has been little affected by Zimbabwe's turmoil, but that visits from commonwealth nations have all but dried up. Some tour agencies in some Commonwealth nations have removed Zimbabwe from their lists, one South African agent said, and replaced it with package trips to Zambia.
During a recent visit to the Zambian side of Victoria Falls, Mike Carter, a New Zealand appraiser on vacation with his family, emerged raincoat-clad from the falls' drenching mist and said, "We never considered coming to Victoria Falls," the town. "We wouldn't bother going 'til they sort things out." Zimbabwe's loss has been Zambia's gain. Livingstone's hotel occupancy has jumped since 2000, to 50 percent from an average of 36 percent, despite a brace of new hotels.
The contrast with Victoria Falls could hardly be more stark. Zimbabwe businessmen say average hotel occupancy runs between 20 and 30 percent, and some of the bigger four-and five-star resorts have severely pared their staff to keep from closing. The world-famous grand dame of local hostelries, the Victoria Falls Hotel, marked its centennial in June with hallways of empty rooms despite an effort to lure celebrants with a 100th-birthday package. The plight of merchants is, if anything, bleaker. Souvenir shops on the main street to Victoria Falls sometimes pass the entire day without ringing up a single sale, one vendor said. Some wholesalers and street vendors have given up and moved their operations to Zambia, prompting a government minister to denounce them as unpatriotic in a recent meeting with the town's beleaguered businessmen.
Things could change, of course: longtime residents remember that Vic Falls prospered most in the 1970's, when Zambia's economic policies drove that nation and its Livingstone tourism business close to ruin. In the meantime, merchants and hotel operators might take a tip from a tourism Web site and try to turn their bitter plight into tourism lemonade. Zimbabwe's national parks "are completely safe to visit, as they are far from the cities where the instability exists," the site says. "Game lodges are desperate for occupants, so prices are extremely competitive. And low lodge occupancy means you'll have thousands of hectares of pristine game country virtually all to yourself."
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PARIS Jun 16, 2004
France on Wednesday launched a campaign against the pollution caused by junk mail with the distribution of household mailbox stickers warning against unsolicited marketing letters and brochures.
"Stop pub", the stickers proclaim, using the French word for advertisements.
"The abuse of brochures is dangerous for my planet. Please spare my mailbox," the stickers say, adding in small type: "No to unaddressed leaflets or brochures, yes to communal newsletters".
Environment Minister Serge Lepeltier, who unveiled the initiative, said postal workers and members of direct marketing and press distribution networks had to abide by the instructions on the stickers.
He said each household throws out around 40 kilogrammes (90 pounds) of junk mail each year, creating a significant recycling cost for local authorities.
If only five percent of the population adopt the stickers, 40,000 tonnes of paper may be saved, he said.
A union covering workers who distribute junk mail, the CFDT, said it viewed the measures as "anti-social" and a threat to the livelihood of the 50,000 people who stuff the unsolicited publications in letter boxes.
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Safari Field Reports
About The VacationTechnician Company
The VacationTechnician Company Conservation Campaign
Parts of Namibia's exotic Skeleton Coast could be submerged by the end of the century and its rich marine life badly hit by global warming, a report by the southern African country's environment and tourism ministry warns.
The 1,500-kilometre (937-mile) Namibian coastline -- which hosts tourist hotspots because of its unspoilt beauty and wildlife -- is dotted with ghostly shipwrecks, a testimony to the unforgiving Atlantic stretch that gives it its name.
A 130-page report, released last week for the UN's Framework Convention on Climatic Change, painted a bleak picture on the impact of global warming on the coastline and on the Benguela current running alongside.
"The cold Benguela current will experience temperature rises due to global warming, thus negatively impacting on the fisheries industry," it said.
"Over the last decade, a trend of warmer sea surface temperatures has been noted over the northern Benguela region," the report said, noting that temperatures could rise between two to six degrees Celsius (36 to 43 Fahrenheit) in Namibia by 2100.
"Marine biodiversity may also be impacted if there are shifts in the Benguela current system," it added.
Marine life off the coast rely heavily on the nutrient-rich upwellings of the cold Benguela current. "Any changes in the frequency, timing or distribution of upwelling would influence production", according to the report.
The sea level will have risen between 30 and 100 centimetres in 96 years from now, the report said "certainly inundating significant parts of Walvis Bay, Namibia's main port. The coastal towns of Swakopmnund and Henties Bay are also vulnerable".
According to marine scientist Jean-Paul Roux, the periodic warming of the Benguela System, called the Benguela Nino Events, has increased.
"During the 1995 Benguela Nino event, unusual mortalities of sardine, horse mackerel were noted ... the Namibian stock of Cape anchovy virtually disappeared while then sardine stock was reduced to its lowest level on record following this event", Roux wrote in a recent publication titled "Namibia's Marine Environment".
Fishing and fish processing are one of the former German colony's major export earners contributing to 10 percent of the gross domestic product.
Joe McGann, climate change coordinator in Namibia's environment and tourism ministry said that "even without the threat of climate change, Namibia faces absolute water scarcity by the year 2020."
"Namibia is highly dependent on its natural resources such as fish, minerals, agricultural land and wildlife", McGann added. "The variable rainfall, frequent droughts and reliance on subsistence agriculture combine to make Namibia highly vulnerable to climate change".
The Benguela current, which runs along the west coast of southern Africa, brings cold water from the South Pole. The current greatly reduces the amount of rainfall that falls along coastal areas, resulting in semi-arid and desert vegetation in the western coastal plains.
Significant resources are required to pre-empt or adapt to potential negative climatic effects, said Deputy Environment and Tourism Minister Petrus Ilonga Monday at the launch of the report.
"Climate change is not of our (Namibia's) making and we cannot be expected to bear the costs of this global problem alone."
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Namibia's Skeleton Coast is one of our planet's most beautiful places and is now host to one of our finest safaris. Over much of the past decade, access to this private area within the National Park has been restricted.
However, in April 2000 we opened our 12-bedded, luxury tented camp and we can now offer superb 4 or 5 day fly-in safaris to this incredible area, with guaranteed departures every Wednesday and Saturday.
Close on 300,000 hectares (660,000 acres) of the National Park has been set aside as an exclusive safari experience for those who want to really get away! It is wild, desolate and uninhabited - and stunningly beautiful.
The Benguela Current brings cool, plankton and fish~rich waters all the way from Antarctica and moderates the temperatures in the region. Mean temperatures year round vary from a high of 28� C (82�F) to a low of 10�C (50�F). Summers are incredibly mild, even though we are in the desert!
The cool ocean air meets the warm desert air and nearly every morning mists cover the coastline, bringing life~sustaining moisture to the desert's fauna and flora.
This is a safari that will rival anything in Africa for those who enjoy the excitement of wild and remote places.
The Secretariat of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) has received over 50 proposals from its member governments to adjust the rules governing the international trade in various wildlife species.
The proposals offer detailed arguments on how to improve the conservation and sustainable use of the African elephant, the minke whale, the great white shark, various tropical birds, trees and orchids, numerous turtle species, the southern white rhinoceros, two species of crocodile, the bald eagle, several medicinal plants and many other species.
Governments will accept, reject or adjust these proposals for amending the CITES Appendices at a conference in Bangkok from 2 - 14 October. These Appendices list species that are at risk and whose import and export is controlled through a permit system (Appendix II) and species that are already endangered and that may not be commercially traded (Appendix I).
The African elephant is a regular feature of the CITES agenda.
Following a 1989 ban on the international ivory trade, CITES permitted some one-off sales in 1997 and again in 2002. The 2002 sales from Botswana (20 tonnes), Namibia (10 tonnes) and South Africa (30 tonnes) have not yet occurred pending the establishment of baseline data on poaching and populations.
Namibia has now submitted a proposal for an annual export quota of two tonnes of ivory. Both Namibia and South Africa are proposing to trade elephant leather commercially in addition to ivory.
Japan is recommending that three populations of minke whale be transferred from Appendix I to Appendix II. CITES currently forbids any international trade in whale products. Madagascar and Australia propose adding the great white shark to Appendix II. No sharks were included in Appendix II until two years ago, when the whale shark and the basking shark were added.
Marine and freshwater turtles and land tortoises are under various degrees of threat around the world, and many are already listed in the CITES Appendices. Six additional species are now proposed for inclusion in Appendix II. They are the soft-shelled pig-nosed turtle, McCord's snake-necked turtle, the Malayan flat-shelled turtle, the Malayan snail-eating turtle, the Asian soft-shelled turtle and the flyriver turtle. In addition, the Malagasy spider tortoise is being proposed for Appendix I.
Sea animals on the agenda in Bangkok will include the humphead wrasse (a large and valuable reef fish occurring in the Indo-Pacific), south-east Asia's Irrawaddy dolphin and the Mediterranean date mussel. Birds will include the yellow-crested cockatoo, the lilac-crowned parrot, the peach-faced lovebird and the painted bunting.
One of the new proposals recommends transferring the African lion from Appendix II to Appendix I. Other proposals call for easing the trade restrictions on the bald eagle and the southern white rhinoceros and introducing the permit system. The US proposes removing the bobcat, now on Appendix II, from the CITES regime.
Three proposals concern crocodiles. Cuba proposes to transfer the Cuban crocodile from Appendix I to Appendix II. Namibia would like to do the same for its national population of the Nile crocodile. Zambia, whose population of the Nile crocodile is already listed on Appendix II, is now requesting an annual export quota of no more than 548 wild specimens.
Madagascar proposes adding the leaf-necked geckos and the coloured serpent considered the country's most spectacular snake to CITES via Appendix II. Kenya proposes the same listing for two species of viper.
The plant proposals would introduce Appendix II permit requirements for Asia's commercially valuable agarwood and ramin trees plus a number of Asian trees belonging to the Taxus genus. Also on the agenda are an orchid from Colombia and a cactus from southern Africa.
The CITES Secretariat will now review and analyse all of the proposals it has received. It will publish its preliminary technical and scientific assessment of the proposals together with its preliminary recommendations in early June.
Thousands of species around the world are endangered as a result of human activities such as habitat destruction, poaching, over-harvesting, and pollution.
CITES was adopted in 1973 to address the threat posed by just one of these activities: unsustainable international trade. To date, some 166 countries have become Parties to the treaty, making it one of the world's most important agreements on species conservation and non-detrimental use of wildlife.
Even after commercial fishing and the timber industry are set aside, the international trade in wildlife is big business, estimated to be worth billions of dollars annually and to involve more than 350 million plant and animal specimens every year. Unregulated international trade can push threatened and endangered species over the brink, especially when combined with habitat loss and other pressures.
CITES accords varying degrees of protection to some 30,000 plant and animal species depending on their biological status and the impact that international trade may have upon them. Appendix I contains fewer than 600 animal species and a little more than 300 plant species, whereas Appendix II covers over 4,100 animal species and 28,000 plant species seven times as many animal species and ninety times more plant species. Appendix III, which includes species that are protected within the borders of a member country, lists over 290 species.
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Gorilla Decline
Ten years ago, about 17,000 Eastern Lowland Gorillas roamed the eastern Congo. But since 1994, their numbers have been slashed by more than 70 percent and fewer than 5000 gorillas remain. There is hope, however, as a new multimillion dollar investment looks to strengthen the protection of the gorilla's habitat and reverse the decline in their population. Conservation International is supporting The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGFI) to help the gorillas and other animals and plants found in their habitat.
Source: www.conservation.org
Uganda Safaris and Gorilla Tracking/Trekking Holiday from vacationtechnician
Sunsets May Help to Guide Migratory Birds
A sunset may do more than refresh the soul. It could recalibrate the internal compasses of migrating songbirds, U.S. and German researchers reported.
The researchers, who attached radio transmitters to thrushes and then followed them by car at night, said their findings help explain how birds fly across the equator at night without getting lost.
The experiment, published in the journal Science, is one of the first to use free-flying birds instead of captive birds in a laboratory. Martin Wikelski of Princeton University in New Jersey and colleagues in the United States and Germany first caught several dozen thrushes and attached tiny radio transmitters to them.
Knowing that birds use magnetic fields to orient themselves, they put some birds in an artificial magnetic field to confuse them and then let them all go. The birds that had not been tricked flew north, as they usually do, but the birds exposed to the artificial field flew west, the researchers said. The next evening, all the birds were free to see the sun. Subsequently, all flew north again. "We suggest that birds orient with a magnetic compass calibrated daily from twilight cues," the researchers wrote.
Source: Reuters
Birding in Africa with vacationtechnician
New Action Plan for Seabirds
Seabirds across the Southern Ocean are set to benefit from new conservation plans. New Zealand and the Falkland Islands have each adopted new National Plans of Action for Seabirds (NPOAs).
In the Falkland Islands the long-term survival of many seabirds (including the Black-browed Albatross, with 70% of the global breeding population) has been boosted by the Falklands Government's adoption of its National Plan of Action for Seabirds. The plan was drafted by Falklands Conservation (BirdLife in the Falklands) and the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (BirdLife in the UK), under the guidelines of the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation. The introduction of local mitigation measures to the longlining fleet has led to a significant reduction in the number of seabirds killed in recent years. The vast majority of seabird mortality in the Falkland Islands is now caused by factory trawlers that discharge offal. The adoption of a specific plan to address the problems caused by trawling makes a significant first in seabird conservation around the world.
In New Zealand, the BirdLife representative, Forest and Bird, has broadly welcomed the release of the New Zealand plan, which will apply to all seabirds affected by commercial and non-commercial fishing methods. However, the organisation has raised concerns that the plan's emphasis on voluntary mitigation methods is likely to mean that many thousands of albatrosses and petrels will still be needlessly killed each year by New Zealand fisheries. Currently at least 10,000 albatrosses and petrels are killed annually in New Zealand waters by trawlers and longliners, with a two-tier system appearing to be in place. Japanese tuna boats operating under strict regulations in New Zealand waters have reduced seabird by-catch from 4,000 birds per year to fewer than 20 individual birds. However, a New Zealand fishing boat recently caught 300 seabirds in a single month. These discrepancies are explained by the fact that the Japanese tuna boats have 100% observer coverage and strict requirements to follow, but New Zealand boats do not. Forest and Bird point out that New Zealand has pushed for regulations in a range of international fisheries (including the Antarctic). Yet there appears to be a double standard being proposed, with voluntary methods within New Zealand and strict regulations on the high seas. Forest and Bird will be monitoring the implementation of the NPOA and stress that an early review of the plan will be essential.
Source: www.birdlife.org
Pelagic Sea Birding in South Africa with vacationtechnician
Young Female Chimps Upstage Males
It would seem young female chimpanzees take their studies a little more seriously than their male classmates, a study in the journal Nature has shown. Females learn from their mothers how to gather termites much faster than males - who prefer to spend more of their time playing, US scientists say. Elizabeth Lonsdorf and colleagues conducted their research on wild chimps in Tanzania's Gombe National Park. They say the gender differences are similar to those seen in young humans.
Girls and boys pick up fine motor skills such as writing at different rates, and the team suggests its research could therefore indicate that sex-based learning differences may have an ancient origin. Educationalists trying to develop learning strategies for children could find the work instructive, the scientists believe.
In a four-year long field study, the team observed 14 young chimps and their mothers engaged in the practice of 'fishing' termites out of mounds with tools made from vegetation. The research found the females learned the skills earlier, spent more time at it and tended to catch more termites with each try.
The young males spent a lot of their time playing and swinging around - behaviours the team says may help them in typically male adult activities later in life, such as hunting and struggling for dominance.
"The availability of animal protein is limited for chimpanzees. They can fish for termites or hunt colobus monkeys," explained Dr Lonsdorf, who carried out the study with Lynn Eberly and Anne Pusey. "Mature males often hunt monkeys up in the trees, but females are almost always either pregnant or burdened with a clinging infant. This makes hunting difficult. But termites are a rich source of protein and fat. Females can fish for termites and watch their offspring at the same time. Adult females spend more time fishing for termites than males do. The young of both sexes seem to pursue activities related to their adult sex roles at a very young age."
Source: www.news.bbc.co.uk
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Greenland's ice cap under threat
Greenland's ice sheet could disappear within the next 1,000 years if global warming continues at its present rate, a report in Nature magazine suggests.
Jonathan Gregory and colleagues from the University of Reading, UK, say their studies forecast an 8 degrees Celcius increase in Greenland's temperature by 2350. They believe that if the ice cap melts, global average sea level will rise by about 7 metres. And even if global warming was halted the rise could be irreversible, they say.
The researchers estimated that Greenland was likely to pass a threshold of warming beyond which the ice sheet - second in size to Antarctica - could not be sustained unless much greater reductions were made in emissions of greenhouse gases. They found that over the next 350 years, global warming was likely to pass the critical threshold in 34 out of 35 model calculations.
If the ice sheet was removed, Greenland would be a lot warmer because the land surface would be at a lower altitude and reflect less sunlight. "Unlike the ice on the Arctic Ocean, much of which melts and reforms each year, the Greenland ice sheet might not re-grow even if the global climate were returned to pre-industrial conditions," says Dr Gregory.
A broad consensus of mainstream scientific opinion holds that human-produced greenhouse gases, such as carbon dioxide (CO2), are driving an unnatural rise in global temperatures. Before industrialisation, the atmosphere contained 280 parts per million (ppm) of CO2. At present, it stands at 370 ppm.
The only international agreement on cutting greenhouse gases is the UN's Kyoto Protocol, which requires industrial countries to make a small cut in global emissions by a time frame of 2008-12. But the pact is in limbo. It still needs to be ratified by Russia to take effect and in any case has been abandoned by the United States, the world's biggest CO2 contributor.
Source: www.news.bbc.co.uk
Global Warming Information from vacationtechnician.com
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
The dolphin/human connection and healing The connection between humans and dolphins has been documented historically since ancient Grecian times and possibly even earlier. It has been proposed that the notion of unconditional
positive regard that dolphin encounters create is healing in itself. Dolphins seem to possess the extraordinary ability to trigger the healing processes within us. People have reported feelings of profound inner peace and states of euphoria after swimming with these incredible marine mammals.
Sufferers from psychological and physiological disturbances, such as acute depression, attention deficit disorders, post-traumatic depression and bi-polar disorders have made remarkable and in some cases, even permanent recoveries after swimming with wild dolphins. The sound vibrations
emitted from dolphins are said to have potent influences on the body, mind and spirit.
This hypothesis has been reinforced through the work of Dr Horace Dobbs. Dr Horace Dobbs first noted the idea that dolphins have healing powers in the UK in the mid-1970s.
Two incidents convinced him that dolphins have a special therapeutic influence on the human mind and spirit. In the first, Geoff Bold, a lifeboat mechanic who was close to nervous breakdown, swam with a friendly dolphin called Donald. After this encounter, Bold's depression was considerably lifted. A few years later, when Dr Dobbs took a group of people out to see Simo, a friendly bottlenose dolphin swimming off the coast of Wales, he was intrigued to note that the dolphin spent most time with one man, Bill Bowell. Then aged 54, Bowell had previously suffered both a heart attack and a nervous breakdown, and had slipped into a state of deep depression. The meeting with Simo was a
remarkable turning point for him. He described the dolphin encounter as more therapeutic than all the anti-depressant drugs he had been taking. After subsequent swims, Bowell started to change from being apprehensive, withdrawn and nervous into an altogether more confident and outgoing
person.
�Dolphins have always evoked in me most of the values we humans are striving for, especially freedom and love. I could never justify their confinement. Since I started in 1974, I have conducted all of my research with wild dolphins in the open sea. It was their choice to participate. They were always free to swim away at any time - and often did. It was a challenge, but I succeeded in showing that it is possible to work with totally free wild dolphins that chose to associate with humans.� - Dr. Horace Dobbs
" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."
Soul Safaris Dolphin Experience �
Located along a miles long white powder beach in southern Mozambique, a resident pod of over a hundred gentle and playful dolphins are waiting for you to join them for a stay in paradise.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Dear Friends,
I share with you an extraordinary event that took place on Monday, May 10, 2004, as we were navigating from Puerto Egas, James Island towards Bartolom� Island. Our First Officer and Expedition Staff noticed the presence of cetacean activity along the horizon, and once near the sighting area they were looking at Orca Whales (Orcinus orca), unfortunately, also called Killer Whales.
The Captain authorized to slow down the ship's speed, and to lower our Zodiac landing craft. The environmental sensitivity, skill, support and enthusiasm shown by our staff is a key element in achieving unique wilderness experiences. Afterwards, and for over an hours time, vacationtechnician guests enjoyed spectacular views of one of the world's most amazing marine mammals.
Once in the water, the Expedition Team, led by Chief Naturalist Alejandro Villa, carefully approached this pod of whales, which included three females and one male. Males are larger than females, and have a dorsal fin twice the size of those of females. An ecologically-sound approach generated an extended contact with the whales. With the advantage of having digital photographic equipment, Alejandro documented the event, gathering vast material in both photos and video. One-of-a-kind material for our graphic marketing efforts, training, web page, and of course on board lectures and presentations!
And so, life continues its determined course in the Gal�pagos Islands. Our guests will return home with a vivid image of this extraordinary event, and without a doubt, will recommend this destination and our services. It is this kind of events that provide magic to these islands, and to vacationtechnician Expedition Philosophy.
When was the last time you saw Orca Whales in the wild? Gal�pagos waits for you.
vacationtechnician.com Nature Reading
Contact vacationtechnician.com
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
In the mists of the Virunga Volcanoes of central Africa the last remaining mountain gorillas face extinction. The rarest and largest of the great apes, they are among our closest relatives yet one of the most endangered mammals on earth. They are threatened by poaching, loss of habitat, disease and war. Mountain gorillas are an important resource for the people of Rwanda, Congo and Uganda across whose borders their tiny forest habitat stretches. Political instability and war have caused many set-backs, but as peace slowly returns, the economic potential of mountain gorilla conservation has also re-emerged.
The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund continues the work started by its founder thirty years ago protecting the mountain gorillas. It also works to ensure the people of the region genuinely benefit from their unique natural heritage.
In the Virunga volcanoes of central Africa Dian Fossey discovered the gentlest of the great apes. She lived amongst the mountain gorillas for nearly 20 years and shamelessly defended them from poachers.
In Rwanda, she founded the Karisoke Research Centre (1967) to provide the world's primary focus for mountain gorilla conservation and research. Through the pages of National Geographic magazine and countless television appearances she focused world attention on the gorillas' plight.
She began raising money to pay for anti-poaching, and in 1978 set up the first ranger patrols in Rwanda. She was murdered by an unknown attacker in the early hours of December 27, 1985, in her cabin at Karisoke. Her friend Alan Root, the wildlife filmmaker who introduced her to gorillas in 1967, recalled in Swara magazine: An occupational therapist with lung problems, a great fear of heights and no training in animal behaviour, Dian was hardly tailor-made for the job of following gorillas among the steep ravines of a 14,000-foot, rain-shrouded volcano. With only a two-day crash course on data collection from Jane Goodall to guide her, Dian recorded everything she saw, and from the beginning she saw clearly that gorillas were doomed unless something was done about the uncontrolled encroachment and poaching that was going on. Over the next 13 years Dian collected a vast amount of data on mountain gorillas. Her work, and that of the co-workers who joined her in the later years, not only led to a greater understanding of gorillas, but to a world-wide concern for their safety.
Saving the Gorillas in the Mist - the work of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
With more than 30 years experience to build on, the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund has determined an optimum annual programme to ensure the long-term survival of mountain gorillas. Its aim is to reinforce and encourage African ownership, build local capacity, and empower grass-roots initiative by applying successful conservation, research, education and development techniques through existing local networks.
Science & Research
Since Dian Fossey began her study of gorillas in Rwanda in 1967, scientific research has been central to mountain gorilla protection and the basis of all conservation planning. The Fund's on-going scientific and research projects, coupled with an effective system for collection and distribution of scientific data, allow conservationists to make informed decisions and plan new projects effectively.
Applied Conservation
Ranger patrols and law enforcement within the national parks have always been the main deterrent to poaching and the unsustainable use of forest resources. The Fund provides training, equipment and material support for national park rangers, wildlife veterinarians and local conservation groups, which, along with an effective regional communications network, continue to reinforce the front-line of mountain gorilla protection.
Community-Based Conservation
The survival of the endangered mountain gorillas is above all dependent on their human neighbours. The Fund's long-term programme of grass-roots projects aimed at sustainable development, conservation education and small-scale enterprise initiatives for the communities living adjacent to and within the gorilla habitat will help realise the full economic potential of mountain gorilla conservation for the region and encourage a strong conservation culture among the local people.
Public Awareness
Through the pages of National Geographic magazine and the release of Gorillas in the Mist, Dian Fossey effectively ended the trade in mountain gorilla infants and curios across the world. Our strong media relations and hard-hitting campaigns continue to raise local, national and global awareness of the plight of the endangered mountain gorillas - especially in times of war and political instability.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Global Warming Facts from the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation
May 12, 2004 New York Times
Global Warming Ignites Tempers, Even in a Movie
By SHARON WAXMAN
LOS ANGELES, May 11 � Any studio that makes a $125 million movie about global warming is courting controversy. But 20th Century Fox does not seem to have fully anticipated the political firestorm being whipped up by its film "The Day After Tomorrow."
Environmental advocates are using the film's release, scheduled for May 28, as an opening to slam the Bush administration, whose global warming policies they oppose. Industry groups in Washington are lobbying on Capitol Hill to make sure the film does not help passage of a bill limiting carbon-dioxide emissions, which many scientists say contribute to global warming.
Meanwhile on Tuesday Fox sparred with celebrity advocates who complained that they had been disinvited to the movie's premiere, only to be reinvited later in the day.
All this is occurring as the entertainment industry is on the defensive, with television networks acknowledging they are censoring themselves to avoid being accused of promoting indecency and the Walt Disney Company distancing itself from a film critical of the administration's foreign policy.
In a telephone news conference on Tuesday former Vice President Al Gore compared the exaggeration of the film's premise to the approach of the Bush administration to global warming.
"There are two sets of fiction to deal with," Mr. Gore said. "One is the movie, the other is the Bush administration's presentation of global warming." He accused the White House of "trying to convince people there's no real problem, no degree of certainty from scientists about the issue." The news conference was organized by moveon.org, an Internet-based liberal advocacy group.
Dana Perino, the spokeswoman for the Council on Environmental Quality, which coordinates environmental policy for the White House, said the administration's policies would reduce global warming threats without destroying jobs.
"While they're working on movies," she said, "we are advancing our scientific knowledge, developing transformational energy technologies and reducing the greenhouse-gas intensity of the American economy."
Early this week Laurie David and Robert Kennedy Jr., vocal anti-Bush environmentalists, said that Fox had withdrawn their invitation to the film's premiere in Manhattan but later called to reconfirm the invitation.
In between, a Fox spokesman said the studio had arranged a special screening for them and Mr. Gore a day before the premiere, and another screening for scientists.
Ultimately Fox chalked the invitation issue up to miscommunication.
Invited or not, Ms. David, a prominent member of the Natural Resources Defense Council, said Fox rejected an offer to have the premiere serve as a fund-raiser for any one of numerous environmental groups. (Studios often use premieres as charitable fund-raisers.)
Before learning from Jim Gianopulos, Fox Studio's chairman, that her invitation to the premiere had been reinstated, Ms. David said: "Fox is completely disinterested in raising any consciousness. In fact they're bending over backward to disassociate themselves from the environmental community."
She continued, "Any connections to anything political they're afraid will hurt the opening."
A Fox spokesman denied any attempt to play down the movie's environmental message or to distance the film from activists. "Clearly the movie is entertainment, but all of this activity creates additional interest, making it more topical," Jeffrey Godsick, the spokesman, said. "It's been wonderful."
Directed by Roland Emmerich, "The Day After Tomorrow" imagines a catastrophic climate change and the rapid arrival of a new ice age caused by global warming. Massive storms destroy Western Europe, Manhattan is covered in a sheet of ice, and tornadoes blast Los Angeles.
The film's trailer shows Dennis Quaid, who plays a paleoclimatologist, warning the vice president � played by an actor who closely resembles Vice President Dick Cheney � that "if we don't act now, it will be too late."
Fox, which financed the big-budget movie, is part of News Corporation, whose chairman and chief executive, Rupert Murdoch, is a strong supporter of Mr. Bush. Mr. Godsick said he did not know if Mr. Murdoch had seen the film.
Mr. Kennedy, an environmental lawyer, said on Tuesday that Fox's attitude toward environmentalists seemed comparable to other instances of self-censorship by media corporations in a politically charged climate.
"This is part of an unfortunate pattern that fits in with CBS canceling the Reagan mini-series and Disney refusing to distribute Michael Moore's film" "Fahrenheit 9/11," he said in an interview before his invitation to the premiere was reinstated. He was referring to recent controversies over political considerations affecting entertainment decisions.
"This is like back to the 1950's and 60's, where people in Hollywood were scared to death of Joe McCarthy, censoring artists, not distributing films, blackballing people," he said. "It's a classic thing that you're supposed to avoid in democracy, the merger of state and corporate power."
Mr. Godsick said that Fox, which plans to spend about $50 million to market the film, was not keeping any interested party at arm's length. The marketing strategy had no connection to the other recent episodes in Hollywood, he said.
"Look, different groups have different agendas," Mr. Godsick said. "Some are to politicize things, some are to go beyond that. The real power of the movie is to raise consciousness on the issue. That's a win-win for everybody."
The studio's Web site promoting the film, thedayaftertomorrow.com, does not include the words "global warming" in its synopsis of the story. But the site does include a section labeled "What can you do?" with a link to Future Forests, a nonprofit British group that promotes limiting carbon-dioxide emissions.
Mr. Emmerich ensured that the movie production participated in CarbonNeutral, a program that involves buying credits to offset carbon-dioxide emissions created during the movie's filming, Mr. Godsick said.
Fox marketing executives have expressed concern that the movie not be perceived as a scientific "treatise," as one executive put it, emphasizing that its appeal is as an action-adventure, roller-coaster-style experience.
Moveon.org said it planned to have thousands of volunteers handing out leaflets about global warming outside theaters when the movie opens. Meanwhile in Washington a coalition of industry groups, including the National Association of Manufacturers, is working to make sure that the movie does not contribute to the passage of a bill limiting carbon-dioxide emissions.
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Global Warming and Climate Change is the biggest environmental threat humanity will face in the 21st century. Caused by an overabundance of the heat-trapping gas, carbon dioxide, in the earth's atmosphere, global warming has caused changes in climate worldwide as well as disruptions and dislocations in habitats and wildlife.
"To me the question of the environment is more ominous than that of peace and war. I'm more worried about global warming than I am of any major military conflict." - UN Weapons Inspector Hans Blix, March 14, 2003
"Our house is burning down and we are blind to it.The earth and humankind are in danger and we are all responsible. It is time to open our eyes. Alarms are sounding across all continents. We cannot say we did not know! Climate warming is still reversible. Heavy would be the responsibility of those who refuse to fight it."
- French President Jacques Chirac, World Summit on Sustainable Development, Johannesburg, August, 2002
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Pre-empt Global Warming
by Mikhail Gorbachev
Mikhail Gorbachev, the last president of the Soviet Union, now heads Green Cross International. He sat down with NPQ editor Nathan Gardels on Oct. 7 in New York to discuss Russia's position on the Kyoto Protocol and US President George W. Bush's renewed push for nuclear non-proliferation.
NPQ | In his speech to the opening session of the United Nations General Assembly, United States President George Bush called for a renewed emphasis on stopping nuclear proliferation -- especially in North Korea and Iran -- to ensure the bomb doesn't fall into the hands of terrorists.
Yet, the US is planning a new generation of small, "more usable" nuclear weapons. And in its agreement with Russia to reduce warhead stockpiles, it has agreed only to "decommission" its weapons, not "demilitarize" them -- in other words, store them, not destroy them.
Doesn't this US posture undermine the credibility of the non-proliferation agenda?
Mikhail GORBACHEV | Much progress has been made between the US and Russia in reducing our nuclear arsenals. But, yes, this US posture is troubling. Since the US has refused to ratify the treaty to prohibit nuclear testing, it is clear it intends to go on perfecting its nuclear weapons. It is clear it is not thinking of abolishing nuclear weapons over the longer term. On the contrary, there is a new concept of American doctrine, as you mention, that foresees the "battlefield use" of nuclear weapons. This does away with the idea that the only purpose of nuclear weapons is as a deterrent.
It prompts other nations to ask, "Why must we abide by the non-proliferation treaty when the No. 1 member of the nuclear club continues to perfect and develop its own weapons?" That is a double standard.
If the US only thinks about its interests instead of the global good, other nations are asking why they, too, shouldn't be putting their own interests first as well?
These questions cannot be wished away. And they are not just being asked by authoritarian or terrorist states. Challenging this double standard is precisely what democratic India had in mind with its nuclear tests.
For now, the US doctrine has sown mistrust and suspicion among the world community.
NPQ | In the absence of a superpower competitor, what can be the aim of America trying to perfect a new generation of nuclear weapons?
GORBACHEV | That is a question, it seems to me, that the American democracy with its open debate about everything else ought to be discussing. It is, after all, a far more significant issue than Monica Lewinsky. Democracy doesn't seem to be working on this particular issue.
It is very important for America to understand how the only remaining superpower can act responsibly in the world. Why isn't it taking the lead, for example, on ratifying the Kyoto Protocol instead of withdrawing from it and trying to kill it?
NPQ | Well, the US doesn't seem to be the only power that doesn't like the Kyoto Protocol. When the US withdrew from the process, it was denounced as unilateralist. Now, Russia -- the critical industrial power whose ratification will make or break the treaty -- is balking. (Russian President Vladimir) Putin says he questions it. And his economic advisor said: "The Kyoto treaty will doom Russia to poverty, weakness and backwardness. If the US and Australia can't afford it, how can Russia?''
GORBACHEV | There is no doubt that reducing greenhouse gases will have costs -- it will take spending money, products may be more expensive, and it will affect competition. That can't be denied. But what is the alternative? Climate change is real, and its costs for the whole planet will be very real. These problems can be solved, especially as we modernize industry with environmental concerns in mind.
Leadership is about making hard choices, taking into account the long view. Let's hope that Russia does not stand on the sidelines on this issue of global warming. Let's hope it doesn't let the international community down. Whenever we have talked about this, President Putin said he will ratify the Kyoto Protocol in the end. I trust him on this, but as President (Ronald) Reagan used to say, "Trust, but verify."
NPQ | What do you think of the American doctrine of preemption?
GORBACHEV | Those who talk about leadership of the world all the time ought to exercise it. Rather than develop strategic doctrines of military preemption -- as we've seen in Iraq, where no weapons of mass destruction have yet been found -- let's act where the intelligence is clear: on climate change and other issues such as water, where today 2 billion people in the world don't have access to clean water. Let's talk instead about preempting global warming and the looming water crisis.
NPQ | In your time in power in the Soviet Union, we used to talk about the dictatorship of the proletariat. Now, more than a decade after the Cold War, we have something new -- a dictatorship of the consumer.
The mass market and political system give them what they want, when they want it, which is now. But the consumer calculus is self-interest; his horizon is short term. In the consumer societies, there is thus no constituency for the future -- for the long-term issues we've been discussing, from climate change to water.
How can a constituency for the future be built?
GORBACHEV | All of us, but particularly in America, consume too much for the planet's well being. Americans are less than 5 percent of the world population, but use 30 percent of all the energy. Gradually, we need to abandon the model of consumer society. If we continue with this model, we will surely undermine nature. And that, in turn, will undermine the stability of our societies.
Building a constituency for the future is, as I said, a task for political leadership. But it also requires an active civil society because, as we know and as you suggest, political leaders in today's more democratic world look most often to the next election, not the next generation.
To add to this problem, the great gap between rich and poor that has grown with globalization is already undoing the accomplishments of the democratic wave of the early 1990s. More and more, there is a trend toward authoritarianism as a way to cope with the dislocations of globalization.
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Seychelles - The Indian Ocean could lose most of its coral islands in the next 50 years if sea temperatures continue to rise and reefs badly damaged by global warming do not recover.
Global warming triggered the death of between 50 and 98 percent of coral reefs in a region stretching from northern Mozambique to Eritrea to Indonesia in 1998 and although there has been some recovery, scientists remain concerned. "We have reason to believe that if climate changes continue due to the carbon dioxide that is being pumped into the atmosphere, the temperatures at ground level and in the oceans will go up," Dr. Carl Lundin, head of the marine program of the Swiss-based World Conservation Union (IUCN), said.
"So virtually all the coralline islands have a decent chance of disappearing in 50 years," Lundin stated in Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles.
Coral reefs are among the most diverse and productive communities on earth. Found in warm, clear, shallow waters of tropical oceans worldwide, reefs have functions ranging from providing food and shelter to fish and invertebrates to protecting the shore from erosion.
Many coral reef organisms can only tolerate a narrow range of environmental conditions and are very sensitive to damage from environmental changes such as rising temperatures which can cause bleaching and eventual death.
Lundin said sustained warming up of ocean currents which followed the El Nino effect in 1998 resulted in bleaching and widespread damage to corals in the Indian Ocean.
"So a very large region has been affected and an awful lot of damage has been caused by the temperature increases which varied from one to two to generally up to five degrees Celsius."
The Seychelles' coralline islands of Amirantes, Aldabra, Bird island and Denis island which support unique ecosystems are seriously threatened.
"These islands are made of fossil reefs that have been raised out of the water but as erosion continues, they are likely to be gnawed away," said Lundin.
Lundin said there was some coral recovery with islands which lost up to 100 percent of their coral cover in 1998 having regained between two and 20 percent of their cover.
He attributed the gradual recovery of corals in Seychelles to time and the lack of negative development.
Take a virtual tour of the Seychelles newest luxury Eco Destination: North Island
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Botswana's Best Birding with Ken Newman
" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."
This 5-night safari to the Okavango Delta Botswanaat a time of the year when all the intra-African and European migrants are in residence and breeding is at its peak. We travel with Ken Newman, one of the region's foremost bird painters and authors. We travel to two Okavango camps offering contrasting habitats and birding experiences within the Okavango Delta.
Most of the region's rarities and endemics should be seen - from Pel's Fishing Owl to the diminutive Brown Firefinch. Within the waterways, savannahs and lagoons, countless herons, ducks, jacanas, eagles, vultures, ibis, storks, plovers and all the 'LBJ's should be found. Some of the rare species include Slaty Egrets, Wattled Cranes, Coppery-tailed Coucals, Black Coucals, Thick-Billed Cuckoo, Chirping Cisticola and Lesser Jacana.
Recommended time of year to travel - early to mid November.
About Ken Newman
Ken was born in England at an early age and stayed there for another 24 years. He scraped through school mainly through good marks for his early artwork and writing abilities, his main interests outside of school being: birds eggs, butterflies and similar creepy crawlies. Adolf Hitler interrupted his wildlife studies so Ken contributed to the dictator's downfall by teaching aeroplane recognition to carefree aircraft gunners, at the time not appreciating the value of this fully-paid-for bird identification training.
Post war Britain saw Ken in the art department of a London advertising agency that he enjoyed for four years, but eventually began to feel the need for more space and opportunity.
He arrived in South Africa in 1948 with a pioneering spirit and soon had one foot on the ladder to progress drawing soap bubbles for Lever Brothers in Durban. That bubble soon burst with the monotony of the situation and Ken moved to Johannesburg in 1950 where his graphic art career continued in between breakaway safaris until 1968 when birds took over his life.
Ken's introduction to bush life was an early trip to the Kruger National Park where he discovered that no one had much interest in, or knowledge of South Africa's birds. He was to learn that Ground Hornbills were Turkey Buzzards, Lilac-breasted Rollers were Blue Jays and that Grey Herons were Blue Cranes.
In 1955, having married his late wife Elisabeth (also an artist), they set off on a seven month round Africa safari, just camping and seeking wildlife. Two years later they did it again, this time taking pictures, especially of birds, for photojournalism.
Ken decided there was a real need for a beginner's guide to the birds of South Africa, and so he started on Garden Birds of South Africa. Faced with the problem of illustrations he decided to try painting. His first picture, a portrait of a Bateleur, was shown with pride to Elisabeth with the question "Do you think I could paint birds?" Her answer, short and to the point, was "No! Not a damn!" So he started.
GARDEN BIRDS OF SOUTH AFRICA was launched in 1967 and stayed on the bookshop shelves for another 30 years. Others followed in quick succession. Ken's paintings and books sell both locally and overseas, and he is much involved in matters ornithological.
Ken has been with Wilderness Safaris/vacationtechnician as a specialist guide, on a casual basis, since the company's early days. His prime interest is in the birds of southern Africa, an interest shared by his wife Ursula and their three children.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Ngala South Africa
On the animal front, the head high grass has been making game viewing a little trying at times. It has also made things a little harder for the usually highly efficient wild dogs. The 18 strong pack has been missing terrified impala fairly regularly as most of the time they cannot see what they are chasing. In some areas they have resorted to trotting along as if on pogo sticks, their heads peeping up out of the grass periodically as they scan the surrounds for potential quarry. No doubt the impala are most grateful for the thick sward.
There seem to be a plethora of male leopards around at the moment. Two testosterone charged males were seen the other day in quite close proximity with scratches and other assorted wounds baring testimony to a territorial battle. These young males are trying to assert themselves as they attain adulthood.
Other highlights of the week have included, three 300-strong herds of buffalo doing their best to control the grass explosion in the south of the reserve; wave upon wave of red billed queleas surging across the skies; a juvenile great spotted cuckoo being fed by a flock of Burchell's starlings(the young cuckoo was already bigger than his hosts).
Spectator?
A recent morning drive had not been as successful as a guide would like to offer to one�s guests. Pleasant enough sightings of zebra, giraffe, wildebeest and impala had ensured that the early start had not been a complete waste of time.
En route home, we stopped to watch a mature male giraffe browsing on an Acacia nigrescens some 7-odd metres off the road. Assuming he would turn his not-altogether-unattractive rear end on us & go lumbering off through the thicket, we were surprised when he turned instead to face us, his gentle eyes looking from one member of the vehicle to the next. More surprisingly, he took first one step & then two & then proceeded until he was within a metre & a half from the Land Rover of amazed onlookers.
The only sound was the swishing of his fly-swatter tail as each guest, ranger & tracker absorbed the tranquillity of the moment � locked in his gentle stare. The awed silence persisted as he slowly ambled past us to the road & made a graceful exit from the centre stage.
I have often wondered whether it is in fact more truthful to assume that the animals are viewing us rather than us viewing them ... Now we know.
Nosy Neighbour
I�m ashamed to admit that my new neighbour has become aware of my insatiable desire to monitor her every move. I rush home every morning to watch her scuttling to and fro. An intensely house-proud single mother, I see her leave, only to watch her return, delighted with the quarry she has procured.
�She� is a species of Thread-Waisted Wasp and her home is a small hole at the bottom of my front step. I am alerted to her arrival by her incessant humming as she goes about her chores � flying off determinedly, only to return a short while later bearing a fat green caterpillar carried in her fore-legs. The caterpillar, now paralysed, is laid to one side whilst she busies herself, digging through the surface sand until she locates the well-concealed entrance holed-up by a small stone, which she easily removes. A quick visit to the �kids�, she nips inside before conducting yet another spring-clean and, finally, enters the hole backwards, dragging the debilitated caterpillar with her.
When the �kids� hatch from the eggs she has neatly laid inside the tunnel, they will spend the first few days of their short lives feeding on this caterpillar and perhaps a few others before digging their way to the surface and assuming their own allotted place in the greater scheme of things.
As she carefully replaces the stone, checking it obsessively before covering it with a thin layer of sand, I can�t help but marvel at the whole process. Not so marvel-ous if you�re a caterpillar though ...
Quelea mayhem
The noise is completely deafening. It is most impressive in the early morning as the birds wake and continue the business of building their nests in preparation for breeding. Tens of thousands of red billed queleas rouse and start chirruping at each other from the knobthorn thicket the colony has chosen to produce the next generation. The little birds have chosen this spot for the safety of the trees and also the six foot sward of thickly seeded grass that has sprung up on the gabbro derived soils. Clouds of birds swish with incredible collective synchrony as though they have rehearsed every move a hundred times. From inflorescence to heavy seed filled inflorescence they swoosh. Culms bend and sway under the weight of the little birds as they pluck protein the rich seeds, nattering excitedly to each other.
The colony has attracted the inevitable bevy of raptors. Tawny eagles seem to be the most abundant predator. They sit not really knowing where to start as great squadrons of queleas shoot by. Whalberg�s eagles look equally as gleeful and confused. A rarely seen lanner falcon, far more used to grabbing fast moving prey, has also been spotted swooping in and plucking the odd straggler from the melee. A now fat resident gabar goshawk has also made the most of the good times. We continue to watch with interest.
The coming of life
The long awaited rains have come in surplus at Ngala and have transformed it into a lush green paradise with running rivers and streams, marshy vleis and scattered pans.
As well as the vegetation growth and insect explosion the frog and toad populations have boomed in this amphibian paradise turning the nights into an orchestral masterpiece. The terrapins and tortoises are out of aestivation and are as common on roadsides as pedestrians on a London side walk. Met with mixed reactions, there have been some impressive snakes seen including two huge Egyptian cobras, big black mambas, an almost resident African rock python at Clara dam, boomslangs and more. Above all the increased birdlife has been the most interesting and surprising with sightings of birds seldom or never seen here including many black storks, African jacanas, little grebes, African spoonbills, a malachite kingfisher, painted snipes, African and Corn crakes, dozens of white winged widows and hundreds of harlequin quails.
Ngala Trackers and Rangers
Great sightings despite (or because of?) rain
The rain, mist and sleet have not been entirely unproductive. The wild dogs have been sighted daily for the last week and a half such that guests no longer believe us when we tell them how lucky they are to see these extremely endangered hounds.
A cheetah was watched in awe, tearing after a terrified impala. Unfortunately the speedy cat narrowly missed probably because impala ducked into a fog patch. The rain has caused an explosion of grass growth. This, combined with the damp conditions, has brought a number of seldom seen birds. White winged widows (one record prior to this year), harlequin quails, fan-tailed cisticolas and kurrichane buttonquails have abounded in the long wet grasslands. Two sightings of painted snipe have also delighted birding guests peering out from under their ponchos. We have even had our first record of a corn crake!
Until next time we will be trying not to drown as the Timbavati moves into day 21 of uninterrupted flow.
Canine Chaos
We rounded the corner 100 metres from camp to find their patchy tan-white-and-black forms lightly trotting away from us. �Wild Dogs!� The eyes of the guests, who knew about the second-most endangered carnivore in Africa, lit up.
We followed them at their easy gait, watched them enter the Mopane woodland, and then circled around ahead to wait for them to emerge onto a large clearing. Our hearts stopped as we saw a large herd of impalas on the clearings feeding alongside a troop of baboons. All eyes were fixed on the edge of the thick Mopane woodland. The treeline exploded as the 15 Wild Dogs raced into the clearings. Impalas snorted and kicked their heels as they zig-zagged away from the danger; baboons barked and hurtled in a beeline for the safety of the Mopane trees. Unusually, the pack of hunters seemed overwhelmed and tried to chase all in sight - their lack of focus proved to be their downfall, as they regrouped in the clearing empty-handed. Slowly, we started breathing again...
Timbavati Flood
The Timbavati River is dry for most of the year. It is a wide river stretching over 60m in some areas. The recent deluge in the lowveld has transformed the Timbavati and its tributaries. The river came down in flood two weeks ago. It flowed 1.5 metres deep bank to bank making it utterly unfordable. Its smaller tributaries also broke their banks in some areas and filled the waterholes to over flowing. And so from a landscape of dust and desolation, devoid of grazing and water, Ngala has turned into a lush green swathe dotted with pans and wallows. The grass is almost too tall to look over. It has sent up inflorescences on long culms to pick up and send pollen off on the wind. Unusual birds for Ngala have been spotted (white winged windows and harlequin quails) and the herds of buffalo have dispersed to smaller groups to take full advantage of the abundant grazing and water. We eagerly await more as the clouds build.
Battle of the Wahlberg's
Heading home after game drive at night can be a fairly quiet affair. Not so on this particular evening! The spotlight caught the flurry of movement as a large shape launched itself from the branches of a Combretum in the East & landed in a heap on the other side of the road.
The shape was in fact two Wahlbergs� Eagles locked in battle � their talons clenched, tumbling around the ground: biting, scratching - neither of them prepared to capitulate. The sounds of their shrieking cut through the night air & gave the effect of a wild, angry banshee. Coupled with their thrashing about in the underbrush, the eerie sounds were their only give-away as we sat speechless in the dark and cold night air.
The next morning, the only evidence of the great battle was the tell-tale scuff-marks in the sand, littered by an occasional feather ...
Ngala's Gold Medal Winner
Just a few minutes into our morning safari a female cheetah was spotted just ahead of us. We hadn�t even seen her yet when we noticed a heard of impala feeding very close by. Seconds later, we saw her. She was trotting straight at the impala, her face blank and her eyes bright in total concentration just like an olympic sprinter poised in the starting blocks.
At that moment, I felt like the sprinter. With everybody hushed and holding my breath all I could here was the blood pumping through my eardrums as my heart rate shot through the roof. The start gun in this case was the ear piercing blast of an impala alarm call. I still close my eyes and see the rest in slow motion. The impala took off in every direction, one straight towards us followed by the sprinting predator now turned Ducati superbike leaning over like Valantino Rossi in the last tight bend towards the finishing line. The finishing line in this case was right behind us and she got the gold medal: a young female impala!
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Africa's three big cats - lion, leopard and cheetah - all capture and kill their prey in much the same manner as a domestic cat kills a mouse. The body proportions, dentition and claws of all cats - from lions to lynxes - is basically the same. Body size, social habits and habitat preferences are what separates most members of the family Felidae.
Although the way in which large cats stalk or approach their prey differs, the actual method of killing is similar. The first objective is to bring the quarry to the ground, and for medium-sized prey this is achieved by grasping the hindquarters. With its feet firmly on the ground, a lion or leopard pulls an antelope to the ground by hooking its talons into its rump and tugging downward. If in pursuit of fleeing prey, cats reach out with their forepaw to trip their quarry. For very large prey such as buffalo, lions may jump onto the animal's back, using their own body weight to topple the victim. Once an animal is off its feet, the cat goes for the throat or muzzle, clamping its jaws tight to suffocate the prey. With small prey, a bite is delivered to the neck to sever the spinal chord.
Whenever a cat hunts and dispatches prey, it must minimise the chance of injuring itself - a sprained leg or broken canine tooth, could easily lead to starvation.
In many parts of Africa, lion, leopard and cheetah occur side-by-side. They are able to coexist because they have different habitat and prey preferences, which reduces competition. Different hunting strategies are employed not only by the different big cats, but also for the various prey species which they hunt.
Leopard
The leopard is the most adaptable of Africa's big cats, with the widest range of prey. Large males can tackle quarry up to the size of adult Topi although they rarely take such risks. Medium-sized and small antelope, as well as warthog, are favoured prey in most areas. The leopard relies on its stealth and patience to approach its prey. Successful hunts usually demand that the leopard surprises its victim, pouncing before it can react and pulling it to the ground. Smaller prey, such as hyraxes, hares and monkeys may be chased and cornered before being clawed and bitten on the back of the neck or throat. In some parts of their range, leopard are almost entirely nocturnal hunters, but in other areas (notably the South African lowveld) they are active throughout the day. Individual leopards may acquire a preference for certain prey animals and develop particular hunting strategies. Warthog may be captured as they leave or enter their underground burrows, entailing a lengthy wait for a patient leopard. Catfish will be plucked from shrinking pools at the end of the rainy season by a leopard which ignores other quarry.
Lion
Lion are the only truly social cats and adult females typically hunt in pairs or groups. When hunting favoured prey such as wildebeest or zebra, lions usually stalk to within 30 metres before rushing at them. In most cases the lions will wait until the quarry has turned away or has its head down. Once it detects danger, the victim bolts but it may be too late. On rare occasions, (and invariably in daylight) lion may ambush prey, with one member of the pride lying in wait as its partner forces the quarry to run in its direction. The sheer abundance of prey can also determine hunting strategies. When great herds of migratory wildebeest are milling about, lions can simply rush into them and pull down one or more of the confused animals. When the same herds gather to cross the Grumeti or Mara rivers, lions simply wait at favoured crossing points and pick off the startled wildebeest. Although male lions have the reputation (quite deserved) of pirating free meals from hardworking lionesses, they are called upon when extra large prey is tackled. Several females may corner and threaten a buffalo, but it will usually take a big male to topple such a beast. In northern Botswana, some large lion prides have taken to preying on young and even sub-adult elephant, and this entails tight teamwork to separate their targets from defensive adults. In South Africa's Kruger National Park, lions appear to have become adept at killing giraffe by attacking them on tarmac roads where the tall mammals lose their foothold on the slippery surface. Lions generally have a higher success rate when hunting after dark.
Cheetah
Built for speed, cheetah hunt by day. They are less reliant on stalking than leopard or lion, but most successful hunts involve walking slowly towards their prey, and �freezing' their posture each time the quarry looks in their direction. Once a cheetah gets to within a range of 50 metres or less, it will sprint towards the prey, instantaneously singling out one individual. With its quarry in full flight, the cheetah's strategy is to catch up with it and strike out, clipping its back legs. The faster a gazelle or antelope is running, the more readily it tumbles. Such a fall may cause a broken leg, but within seconds the cheetah takes hold of its victim's throat and clasps its jaws tightly. Cheetah only have about 300 metres in which to catch their prey, because they cannot continue at full speed beyond that. Gazelles often evade cheetah by turning sharply, while animals which stand their ground are rarely attacked. Cheetah are less adaptable than lions or leopards, but some individuals may become adept at hunting in thick bushland where sprinting is impossible. At Kwandwe, in the Eastern Cape Province, some Cheetah have broken all the 'rules' and have taken to hunting on moonlit nights.
Watching any of the big cats on the hunt is one of the most thrilling elements of a safari. With astute and sensitive guides and an intimate knowledge of predator territories vacationtechnician guided safaris provide some of the best opportunities to witness this behaviour.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
V A G A B O N D I N G >: Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Excellent description of finding the Mountain Gorillas in the Bwindi National Park, Uganda. Additional information on gorilla tracking or trekking can be reviewed here:
Uganda
Bwindi Inpenetrable Forest
Gorilla Trekking Photo Primer -the lighting is very difficult under the dense forest canopy!
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
vacationtechnician.com Botswana Safari Guide Profiles: Richard Randall
Richard who speaks English and French, is a vacationtechnician professional guide with more than 30 years of bush experience in Southern Africa. He is a citizen of Botswana and lives in Maun. Richard is one of the best ornithologists and birdwatchers in Southern Africa, and is considered one of the top safari guides.
No wonder he was given the responsibility to share his knowledge and the beauty of the bush with thousands of people from around the world, among them Bill Clinton and Hillary Clinton former President of the United States.
Richard always tries to show the bush as an amazing ecological complex of organisms, small and big, all of which he considers equaly important and fascinating. The wildlife of Africa is much bigger than the spectacular mammals that we all love and want to photograph, and in the process we miss the whole immense drama of life.
"the best guides = the best safaris~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."
Je suis arriv� en Afrique australe en 1957 a l�age de cinq ans avec mes parents qui avaient �migr� l� de l'Europe. Tr�s t�t j'ai d�velopp� un int�r�t vif en ce qui concerne, en effet une passion pour, la faune qui abondait dans beaucoup de parcs dans notre nouveau pays la Rhod�sie, maintenant le Zimbabwe. La plupart des mes vacances ont �t� pass�es dans la nature o� je pouvais �tudier la flore et faune locale. Plus tard, pendant que j��tait '� l'�cole secondaire et ensuite � l'universit�, j'augmentais mon horizon de naturaliste pour inclure des visites aux parcs et r�serves au Kenya, au Mozambique, en Afrique du Sud et au Malawi. J'ai travaill� pendant quelques ann�es en tant qu'administrateur de gouvernement dans des endroits �loign�s et sauvages du Zimbabwe.
J'ai visit� la premi�re fois le delta de l�Okavango en 1977 et j�etais tellement impression� que j'ai d�cid� plus tard de me d�placer l�, prenant le poste de Directeur des Op�rations et Naturaliste pour une compagnie de safari bas�e au coeur du delta. Pendant mon temps dans le Delta j'ai accompagn� beaucoup de groupes et d�individus en promenades 4x4, � pied et en de bateau, et j�ai form� les guides professionnels locaux. Certains de ces groupes �taient associ�s avec des mus�es ou les �tablissements universitaires (par exemple l�universit� de Harvard, le mus�e Smithsonian et la California Academy of Science). J'ai �galement men� des groupes de langue fran�aise, ayant appris le fran�ais � partir de ma m�re qui �tait parisienne. En 1992 j'ai obtenue le poste de Directeur G�n�ral et Naturaliste dans un nouveau et grand loge de safari � Kasane, dans le nord lointain du Botswana. J'�tait responsable de 12 guides professionnels et j�ai personnellement pris en charge le guidage sp�cialis�.
Pendant mon temps l�-bas, j'ai guid� sur demande, des groupes, des familles et des personalit�s internationaux. Parmi le dernier �taient le Pr�sident du Botswana, le Pr�sident Rawlings du Ghana, le Premier Ministre de la Malaisie, Princesse Alexandra du Royaume Uni et, en 1998, j�ai �t� s�lectionn� p�r la Miason Blanche des Etas Unis pour conduire un Safari sp�cialement pour le Pr�sident Clinton des et son �pouse Hilary. Depuis juillet 2002 j'ai r�sid� dans la ville de Maun, et j�ai tenu le poste de G�rant d�une compagnie de safari, ou je travaille aussi comme guide professionnel pour des exp�ditions dans le delta de l�Okavango, les parcs de Mor�mi et de Chob�. Mes int�r�ts entournent les mammif�res, les oiseaux (je suis membre du Comit� de BirdLife Botswana), les reptiles, les amphibies, la flore et l'astronomie. Je suis un citoyen du Botswana.
Apart l�anglais et le fran�ais, je parle aussi le Setswana (du Botswana) et le Shona.(du Zimbabwe).
KWANDO SAFARIS G�RE 4 CAMPS, INTIMES, PRIV�S ET PERSONNELS.
� Kwara Camp situ� au sein des 175. 000 hectares de la concession de Kwara, dans le delta de l�Okavango
� Lebala Camp situ� dans la partie sud des 232.000 hectares de la concession de Kwando
� Lagoon Camp situ� dans la partie nord des 232.000 hectares de la concession de Kwando
� Songwe Village situ� pr�s des chutes du lac Victoria Zambia sur 125 hectares de terrain priv�.
POUR QUOI KWANDO SAFARIS & vacationtechnician.com?
Kwando Safaris a �t� fond� afin d�offrir aux amateurs l�exp�rience unique d�un vrai safari africain � Tout ce que vous attendiez.
� Kwando Safaris n�organise ses safaris que dans des zones enti�rement priv�es.
� Nos camps sont ouverts toute l�ann�e.
� Pas plus de 6 h�tes par v�hicule.
� Nous organisons des randonn�es d�observation des animaux sauvages en dehors des pistes.
� Nous organisons des randonn�es nocturnes d�observation des animaux sauvages (30% des animaux les plus fascinants sont essentiellement nocturnes).
� Nous utilisons des bateaux � deux ponts d�observation afin de garantir une visibilit� panoramique maximale.
� Nous avons recours � des guides et traqueurs afin de maximaliser les possibilit�s d�observation de toutes les esp�ces.
� Nous proposons un tarif tout compris. � Pas plus de 8 tentes (16 lits) dans chaque camp.
� 3 repas sains et nutritifs chaque jour.
� Nos tarifs comprennent toutes les boissons alcoolis�es y compris les grandes marques, les vins, les autres boissons et les boissons fra�ches.
� Nos camps du Botswana, avec Songwe Village constituent un ensemble de 5 grandes destinations de safari.
� Service de r�ception et de reconduite � l�a�roport de Maun.
� Des camps intimes dans des emplacements priv�s avec un service personnel de style africain.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
A Rhino in Botswana's Okavango Delta sizes up vacationtechnician wildlife-watchers. "Safaris might be the key to winning the conservation battle in Africa," says Colin Bell, whose company won the World Legacy Award in the Nature Travel category.
On June 8, 2004, at National Geographic's Washington, D.C., headquarters, Queen Noor of Jordan is scheduled to again present the World Legacy Awards (WLA) for sustainable tourism�a joint program of National Geographic Traveler magazine and Conservation International (www.wlaward.org).
Queen Noor presided over the first WLA ceremony last year, announcing winners in three categories: Nature Travel, Heritage Tourism, and Destination Stewardship. Each winner works to protect the natural and cultural quality of the places we visit, supports local communities, and gives us lasting travel memories.
This week, in anticipation of the 2004 ceremony, we present the winners of 2003 as described in Traveler (September 2003), starting with the Nature
Wilderness Safaris, Southern Africa
"To me, there is no more uplifting, inspirational, or educational form of travel than a safari," Colin Bell, founder of Wilderness Safaris, tells me. So I'm learning in northern Namibia at the company's Skeleton Coast Camp, a 600,000-acre (240,000-hectare) reserve, one of 44 eco-friendly Wilderness Safari camps in seven African countries. The experience is more than just touring Earth's oldest desert (55 million years) with sand dunes that vibrate and hum under the chilly Atlantic winds. It's more than tracking springbok and desert elephant; more than combing beaches flecked with garnet, agate, and diamond; more even than visiting the nomadic Himba to witness their centuries-old way of life. It's complete immersion in the large, fantastic world of the desert.
When I ask if any industrial use threatens this land, our amiable guide, Douw Steyn, says, "Yes. It's widely used in the tourist trade." He shows us a gravel plain lacerated by the truck tires of joyriding tourists, saying the tracks will take a century or more to disappear. Southern Africa-based Wilderness Safaris, by contrast, has built its reputation on minimizing tourism damage and maximizing its benefits to both people and nature.
At the Mombo Camp in Botswana's Okavango Delta, for instance, my gin and tonic came with a slide show on the Wilderness Safaris backed rhino reintroduction program here. Poachers eradicated rhinos here in the early 1980s, but now 21 white rhinos nibble about. On a walking safari at Jao Camp, also in the Okavango, local guide Frank Mashebe thrilled guests by unlocking the secrets of�of all things�termite mounds. (They have an air-conditioning system, for instance).
Wilderness Safaris won its award partly because it hires, trains, and promotes talented locals like Mashebe. At Botswana's Savuti Camp, another skilled guide, Benson Siyawareva, tracked down the rare African wild dog, or "painted wolf." Only 5,000 or so still roam, but he finds a pack of 16�the gift of conservation.
"Our conservation ethic and community-based tourism model have resulted in threatened land becoming protected," Bell tells me. "And our Children in the Wilderness project, which has given week-long safaris to a thousand underprivileged African children, should help create the next generation of African conservationists."
For more information book via safari specialists such as New York-based vacationtechnician.com.
Watch for the Heritage Tourism winner in two weeks, and the announcement of the 2004 World Legacy winners on June 8.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
The atoll that time forgot: Aldabra Islands
Campaigners fear for future of giant tortoises and crabs.
For millennia the atoll known as Aldabra has bloomed in the absence of man. A speck in the Indian Ocean hundreds of miles from inhabited islands, it spawned tortoises big enough to knock over trees and crabs powerful enough to rip open coconuts.
White-throated rails, the last surviving flightless bird of the Indian Ocean, wandered the scrub, and in the lagoon darted sharks, ray, groupers and other exotic fish. Sailors occasionally landed but did not linger, for want of fresh water and timber.
But in the mid-1960s Britain appeared to deliver the unique ecosystem's death sentence by deciding to site a military base at Aldabra, effectively turning it into a giant aircraft carrier.
Campaigners rolled back that decision in what was feted as a landmark victory for the modern environmental movement, leaving the atoll's four main islands, Grande Terre, Malabar, Polymnie and Picard, largely untouched to this day.
Now that may change because a luxury safari camp is being planned for Aldabra. The age of ecotourism has caught up with the land that time forgot. The government of the Seychelles, the archipelago east of Africa which administers the atoll, has tendered for a resort to cater for the super-rich in anticipation of charging each visitor thousands of dollars a day.
The prospect has horrified conservationists. Tam Dalyell, the Labour MP who led opposition to the military base, vowed yesterday to launch a new campaign on behalf of Aldabra, which remains part of the British Indian Ocean Territory. "I am absolutely dismayed," he said. "It would alter the nature of the atoll. The idea was to keep it as pristine as possible."
Mr Dalyell, now the father of the House of Commons, said he would raise the issue in parliament when it resumes after the Easter break and lobby the Foreign Office.
But the South African company which has tendered to build the resort, Wilderness Safaris, said its environmental record was impeccable and it would manage the world heritage site better than scientists who, it said, treated the atoll as a private playground while stationed there for research.
"Why should it be scientists that have exclusive access? They can be the worst when it comes to looking after the environment," said a company director, Russel Friedman.
Aldabra is situated in the extreme south-west of the Seychelles archipelago, 375 miles east of Africa, 250 miles north-west of Madagascar and 685 miles south-west of the main Seychelles population centre, Mah�.
It is the world's largest raised coral atoll; its last submergence was about 125,000 years ago. It hosts endemic insects, plants and mammals, including 152,000 giant tortoises, the world's largest population of this reptile. Believed to live beyond 100 years, the tortoises weigh up to 250kg (39 stones) and are known to push over shrubs and small trees when foraging for food.
Robber crabs measuring up to a metre long - the world's largest terrestrial arthropods - rove the beaches and climb palm trees in search of coconuts, which they open with huge pincers. The world's second largest population of frigate birds use the atoll for their sanctuary.
Described by Sir David Attenborough as "one of the wonders of the world", the atoll was declared a world heritage site by the UN in 1982.
The government of the Seychelles, whose beaches attract celebrities such as the England rugby star Jonny Wilkinson, wants to attract rich tourists and for Aldabra to pay its own way.
"It costs us $500,000 a year to run Aldabra," Lindsey Chong Seng, executive director of the Seychelles Island Foundation (SIF) which manages Aldabra, told Reuters. "In order to maintain the atoll, we have to put Aldabra on a sustainable footing by introducing an upmarket eco-lodge."
He said plans included building six blocks, accommodating a total of 12 people, on the western island of Picard. Visitors will be expected to pay up to $2,000 (�1,090) a night.
Wilderness Safaris, a vacationtechnician.com partner, is the only company to have tendered, according to Mr Friedman. The Johannesburg-based company runs 48 lodges across southern Africa, many of them in environmentally sensitive areas.
Non-governmental organisations promised funding but it never materialised, Mr Friedman said, prompting the authorities to seek alternative means.
He envisaged a maximum of 20 visitors spending a week at a time on the atoll, adding that it would be better off hosting monitored tourists than PhD students duplicating predecessors' research.
"It's an awesome place, really amazing. If you go there and don't enjoy yourself there must be something wrong with you," Mr Friedman said.
But he said the company had asked the authorities to suspend the tender process for 12 months while the tourism market improved.
A marine researcher who spent several months on the island but declined to be named said a luxury safari camp would compound rising sea temperatures and erosion which are already threatening the ecosystem.
Mr Dalyell echoed those concerns, claiming that no matter how well intentioned, a resort would damage the atoll.
Paradise being lost
The Galapagos Islands
The Galapagos archipelago, 600 miles off Ecuador, was discovered by Charles Darwin and is home to giant tortoises, lava lizards and penguins. The ecosystem is threatened by fishermen demanding laxer laws and by the 2001 oil spill which killed 60% of the unique marine iguanas. The tourist trade is also a concern.
Great Barrier Reef
Off Queensland, the 1,250-mile long series of reefs is home to sharks, turtles and more than 1,500 types of fish. Concern that overfishing is depleting marine life has led to a law that will leave tourism the only permitted industry in one-third of the world heritage site. The million visitors a year bring problems of pollution.
Maldives
A chain of islands off the Indian sub-continent, the Maldives are a sought-after destination for scuba divers. But the coral reefs are being damaged by effluent by the tourist cabins. Global warming makes their disappearance a real possibility.
Antartica
Mining and mineral exploitation has been banned from the last great wilderness, which occupies a 10th of the plane. It is home to penguins, albatrosses, elephant seals and whales. But there is a also a burgeoning cruise industry. Environmentalists point out that if you leave a footprint in moss on Antartica it will take at least 10 years to recover.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
As they padded across the grass in unison, there was something distinctly otherworldly about them.
This pride of white lions has been brought to Britain as one of the rarest attractions of the animal kingdom. It is estimated there are only 70 in the world -- and four are now on show at the West Midland Safari Park in Worcestershire, southern England.
At a cost of $500,000, 16-month-old Mubuto, his sister Natasha, their half-sister Johanne, 15 months, and unrelated Maryn, 19 months, were bought from the Kruger National Park in South Africa.
The animals are not albinos because their tawny eyes are the same as any lion, but they are affected by a genetic condition known as leucism, which means they lose the normal pigmentation in their skin and fur.
In the wild, such cubs are sometimes killed by members of their pride, or picked off by hyenas. They also make profitable targets for poachers.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
This month has been one of quite incredible transformation. 2004 could just
enter the record books as one of the most remarkable years in the Okavango
Delta in living memory... after two years of below-average floods we are
finally seeing the full power and beauty of the Delta, in a way not
witnessed for 20 years... this year's flood is going to be awesome!
Water which fell months ago as rain in the highlands of Angola has slowly
been making its way towards Mombo, across Namibia's Caprivi Strip and down
the Okavango Panhandle, filtered by great stands of papyrus and sand banks,
until it began arriving in the Mombo area at the very beginning of the month
- a good two months early.
Combined with this we have had much of our year's rainfall arriving late in
the rainy season, with the result that huge amounts of water have caused
some radical changes in our area in the last few weeks... It is hard to
believe that an area as flawless and beautiful as Mombo could be improved
upon, but the arrival of the floodwaters have lifted the area to a new
level...
Those of us who have had the privilege of calling Mombo home for some time
are particularly taken aback by the earliness and intensity of the water
flows into the Mombo area. Comparing this year's flood with last year's,
there is already much more water here than there was at the height of last
year's much less impressive inundation.
You can see the water pushing in day by day as it creeps nearer and nearer
to the steps of Mombo. The view across the floodplains from the main area is
simply breathtaking - infinite expanses of green grass and reeds, and
occasional stretches of open water which reflect the glittering sun. The
floodplain is dotted with the black, half-submerged shapes of buffaloes,
each with a brilliant white cattle egret perched on its back.
The arrival of the floodwater at Mombo has brought many animals and birds in
closer to Mombo - we have seen slaty egrets and pygmy geese searching
flooded grassy areas for food, and we have had some remarkable moonlit
sightings of groups of hippos grazing. The buffaloes and red lechwes
especially have been enjoying the lush vegetation in the newly flooded
plains.
The late rains have added to this spectacular transformation - we have had
another good month for rainfall, with most of the rain occurring during
afternoon thunder storms, carefully timed so as not to interfere with game
drives!
As we head into winter, temperatures have been a little cooler - the sun has
lost a little of its intense summer heat and daytime temperatures are very
pleasant.
In March we have had a total of 121.5mm of rain, giving us a total of 400mm
since November. This however is only just above the average likely to be
experienced in this area around Maun during the summer season. While
temperatures have been generally getting cooler, with some cloudy and windy
days being experienced, the sun has been particularly intense following
rainstorms. This is probably due to there being less dust in the atmosphere
after each rain shower. Minimum recorded temperatures have ranged from 18�C to 23�C, with an average daily minimum of 20.16�C. Maximum temperatures have ranged from 21�C to 30�C, with an average daily maximum of 28.00�C.
This "sunshine and showers" weather has meant that we have regularly enjoyed
seeing rainbows arch over the Mombo floodplains... anyone looking for the
pot of gold at the end of the rainbow need go no further than Mombo!
As well as a month of water, March has been a month of leopards. After an
absence of almost a year, the Maun Road female leopard made a welcome
re-appearance in some of her old haunts, now accompanied by a ten month old
cub. This means that we currently have three female leopards in the area
with cubs born at various times during the last year. We believe that there
are about 30 leopards in total in and around the Mombo game drive area.
The huge Burned Ebony male leopard used the cover of some of the new plant
growth to kill an impala, and then concealed his kill close enough for us to
have some very personal encounters with this incredible but elusive
predator, the ultimate in deadly stealth.
March has also been a month of frogs - the nightly chorus fills the Mombo
opera house to the rafters, with hippos, hyaenas, and lions, all performing
too to create a perfect nocturnal African symphony - sounds that we know
none of our guests will ever forget...
As we reach the end of March, the moon is waxing again towards its monthly
zenith, casting a silvery light over the buffaloes and hippos as they graze,
and casting shadows over the water as the giant eagle owls drift silently
among the raintrees.
In the Camp itself, we are continuing to refine the many little details that
make a stay at Mombo or Little Mombo so special... couples on honeymoon are
enjoying intimate and romantic private dinners and our chefs have been busy
making special cakes for birthdays and wedding anniversaries. Freshly boiled
water delivered to each tent with the morning wake-up call gives our guests
the chance to have an "emergency" cup of coffee at first light - although of
course they soon realise that the bush experience delivers a far greater
boost to the body and soul than caffeine ever could!!
As this area undergoes its annual change into a much more watery kingdom, we
are taking advantage of living in a huge natural classroom to extend our
meet and greet talks to explain to guests some of the wonder of the flood
and the rivers that turn their backs on the sea. Many guests have commented
that this additional information has really helped them get even more out of
their Mombo experience as it has further opened their eyes to the wonder
that is the Okavango Delta...
While some of our roads have flooded and are now impassable, this has not
compromised the quality of the game viewing experience at Mombo in any way.
Rather, game viewing is in many ways more intense as with the floodplains
now inundated, many animals have been pushed into smaller areas in the
centre of islands. The beauty of Mombo, and the reason that it boasts such
exceptional numbers and variety of game, is that it encompasses a variety of
different and contrasting habitats, thus providing the perfect habitat for a
great many species of animal and bird all year round.
Recent unusual sightings include a caracal (a large lynx-like cat) and a
large grey mongoose, the largest southern African mongoose but a very
secretive animal and hard to spot despite its size. Also a male leopard
mating with two females at the same time, and somehow dividing his time (and
energy!) between the two of them. Also some rare daytime sightings of honey
badgers and porcupines.
Perhaps the most spectacular sighting was one which set a new Mombo record:
seven of the reintroduced white rhinos grazing together on a large open area
known as Suzi's Duckpond. One quarter of all Botswana's wild rhinos together
in one place at the same moment. It was late afternoon, and the sky was
brilliantly lit up by the setting sun, bathing the whole scene in that
special soft light so beloved of photographers... and what a scene to
photograph! In the background were hundreds of zebra, and a quick glance
around the area would also reveal giraffe, warthog, wildebeest, jackal and
tsessebe... Meanwhile the abrupt alarm calls of impala hung on the still air
as they spotted the female leopard we had watched playing with her cub only
a few minutes earlier... and that was not so very long after we had seen one
of the four black rhinos near the airstrip... the kind of hour that only
ever seems to happen at Mombo - a place so magical that it can have
twenty-four hours like that in just one day!
And of course we have still to see this year's flood reach its peak, so no
doubt many more spectacular moments and special sightings await us... 2004
is simply flying by, proof (if any were needed) of how much fun we are
having...
So the Okavango flood continues to push into the Mombo area, carrying us
forward to who knows what new adventures... We can only be certain of one
thing, that 2004 is going to be a memorable year for Mombo in a great many
ways... so you are all invited to help make these memories even more
special!
As ever, we will leave the final word on Mombo to some vacationtechnician guests who stayed with us in this special place in March:
� Everything was fantastic - a true five star plus experience - thanks
for everything
� Everything was simply perfect
� Francis (our guide) was top rate in all areas. A very dignified
gentleman and a prize for your Camp
� Thank you for the most wonderful three days
� The Little Mombo staff truly contributed to making this visit to
paradise a once in a lifetime (hopefully not!) experience
� It could not have been more enjoyable. We had the best time and will
come again
� Roger & Ella's hospitality made my group feel welcome & at home...
thanks for a wonderful visit.
� This trip was our first and we felt very spoiled and fully intend to
return. Thank you for making our African experience so great and unique
� We do not want to leave Little Mombo! Leigh & Sharon are the best
host and hostess...
� Mombo is a very special place! We now appreciate Africa even more!
Looking forward to our return!
� Everything exceeded our expectations - we can't wait to share it
with our friends
� Nothing was too much trouble for the staff - they were wonderful
� My stay at Mombo has been the highlight of ALL my trips - Mombo is a
MUST!
Mombo Camp is situated on Mombo Island, adjoining the northern tip of Chief's Island, and is within the Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango Delta in northern Botswana. The camp offers abundant big game viewing, arguably the best in Botswana.
The highlight here are the concentrations of plains game and all the predators - including the big cats! Lion sightings are particularly good. Mombo is built on an island that is surrounded by open floodplains. The camp is largely built in and around the shade of some large mangosteen, ebony and fig trees and overlooks a wonderful floodplain that teems with game.
The camp has 9 comfortably furnished, luxurious tents, raised off the ground. The guest's rooms and the walkways that connect the rooms to the living area are up to 2m off the ground, allowing game to wander freely through the camp - but at the same time allowing for guest safety. One often finds that animals take refuge under the rooms. The canvas rooms are spacious and well appointed and have en-suite facilities under canvas and an additional outdoor shower for those who enjoy a shower under the stars.
The dining room, pub and living area overlook the open plain in front of the camp and there is a plunge pool for relaxing in the heat of the day. Activities at Mombo include morning and afternoon game drives in open 4x4 Land Rovers.
The game viewing in the area is excellent and guests could see lion, leopard, large herds of buffalo, cheetah, wild dog, elephant, white and black rhino, hyena, giraffe, wildebeest and zebra. Access into this area is only by aircraft.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
The Story of Lonesome George the Chobe Elephant
We sat dead still. Nobody moved, not even to raise a camera and take a photo. A massive bull elephant was standing only a few metres away. He stretched his trunk out inquisitively, smelling the large obstacle that was parked adjacent to his path. When he carried on towards the water, the Land Rover and all its occupants breathed a huge sigh of relief.
This particular bull elephant was in musth. The secretions from his temporal gland, the dribbling between the back of his legs and the overpowering pungent odour gave away the fact that he had an excess of testosterone and other male hormones coursing through his body. This male was looking to mate - and fortunately for us, he decided that the Land Rover was not in oestrus. The fact that he was on his own and looking for female company meant that he quickly earnt the nickname of lonesome George.
We drove down to the Chobe River in Botswana and waited for George at a point on the river where elephants often gather to drink. Sure enough after a few minutes he came trundling along with the hurried but enthusiastic gait of a thirsty elephant. We watched him drink, slurping the cool clean water from the very surface. He then began to bathe and splash. His enjoyment clearly showed that cool clean water of the Chobe was definitely more than just something to drink.
We were just about to move on and have a look at some lions which we had found that morning when we saw a large breeding herd of elephants moving down to the spot where George was drinking. We all seemed to feel a connection to George - he was part of only a half finished story yet to be written. A collective decision was made see if George might possibly "get lucky" with the any of the female elephants in the breeding herd. The lions would have to wait!
Sure enough George stopped his aquatic cavorting and moved on to the more serious business of finding a willing female. As the herd drank, George methodically approached all the adult females, again using his trunk to try and detect any excessive levels of oestrogen.
As we watched, two more breeding herds came down, one after the other. There were now, close to a hundred elephants of varying ages all drinking and cavorting (already used cavorting). We felt sure that George would find a mate amongst this lot. He was easy to pick out from the rest of the scrum as he was truly gigantic, standing at least three feet taller than any of the other elephants.
We were parked in the same spot for over two hours, watching not only George but the rest of the elephants, drink, play, mud, dust and some of the younger ones just lay down and sleep. Slowly, the different herds began to dissipate, some heading north across the vast floodplains, some moving back to the teak woodlands. As the sun hit the horizon one elephant remained at the drinking spot on the river - Lonesome George.
He slowly moved off, displaying none of the enthusiasm that we had seen earlier in the afternoon. Using the same elephant path, he moved back up the sand ridge in the direction of our campsite. As it was getting dark we also had to move in that direction.
Whilst fortune had not favoured George, we felt fortunate to have been able to spend an afternoon with him. We had all gained a small insight into the trials and tribulations that are part of daily elephant life.
More than likely George is probably still lonesome - that is often the way with bull elephants. However he will certainly not be forgotten, at least by those of us on the vehicle him that afternoon.
::::
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
The Story of Lonesome George the Chobe Elephant
We sat dead still. Nobody moved, not even to raise a camera and take a photo. A massive bull elephant was standing only a few metres away. He stretched his trunk out inquisitively, smelling the large obstacle that was parked adjacent to his path. When he carried on towards the water, the Land Rover and all its occupants breathed a huge sigh of relief.
This particular bull elephant was in musth. The secretions from his temporal gland, the dribbling between the back of his legs and the overpowering pungent odour gave away the fact that he had an excess of testosterone and other male hormones coursing through his body. This male was looking to mate - and fortunately for us, he decided that the Land Rover was not in oestrus. The fact that he was on his own and looking for female company meant that he quickly earnt the nickname of lonesome George.
We drove down to the Chobe River in Botswana and waited for George at a point on the river where elephants often gather to drink. Sure enough after a few minutes he came trundling along with the hurried but enthusiastic gait of a thirsty elephant. We watched him drink, slurping the cool clean water from the very surface. He then began to bathe and splash. His enjoyment clearly showed that cool clean water of the Chobe was definitely more than just something to drink.
We were just about to move on and have a look at some lions which we had found that morning when we saw a large breeding herd of elephants moving down to the spot where George was drinking. We all seemed to feel a connection to George - he was part of only a half finished story yet to be written. A collective decision was made see if George might possibly "get lucky" with the any of the female elephants in the breeding herd. The lions would have to wait!
Sure enough George stopped his aquatic cavorting and moved on to the more serious business of finding a willing female. As the herd drank, George methodically approached all the adult females, again using his trunk to try and detect any excessive levels of oestrogen.
As we watched, two more breeding herds came down, one after the other. There were now, close to a hundred elephants of varying ages all drinking and cavorting (already used cavorting). We felt sure that George would find a mate amongst this lot. He was easy to pick out from the rest of the scrum as he was truly gigantic, standing at least three feet taller than any of the other elephants.
We were parked in the same spot for over two hours, watching not only George but the rest of the elephants, drink, play, mud, dust and some of the younger ones just lay down and sleep. Slowly, the different herds began to dissipate, some heading north across the vast floodplains, some moving back to the teak woodlands. As the sun hit the horizon one elephant remained at the drinking spot on the river - Lonesome George.
He slowly moved off, displaying none of the enthusiasm that we had seen earlier in the afternoon. Using the same elephant path, he moved back up the sand ridge in the direction of our campsite. As it was getting dark we also had to move in that direction.
Whilst fortune had not favoured George, we felt fortunate to have been able to spend an afternoon with him. We had all gained a small insight into the trials and tribulations that are part of daily elephant life.
More than likely George is probably still lonesome - that is often the way with bull elephants. However he will certainly not be forgotten, at least by those of us on the vehicle him that afternoon.
::::
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.