26 October 2004
Mkambati People finally own their Land!
Under the restitution of land process in the post-1994 South Africa, the Mkambati community has been awarded their land and the ownership of the Mkambati Nature Reserve.
In 1919, the Mkambati people of South Africa�s Wild Coast were dispossessed of the land they lived on, stretching from the rolling hills of Pondoland to the Indian Ocean. After 1994, South Africa�s groundbreaking Land Restitution Act allowed them to begin the process of reclaiming their land. On October 17th, 2004, the process came to a successful conclusion with the signing ceremony, returning the land to its original owners. Since vacationtechnician.com partner Wilderness Safaris is a major partner of the Mkambati Land Trust, which represents the 40 000 people living on the boundary of the Mkambati Nature Reserve, Wilderness concession managers Charles and Linda van Rensburg were amongst those who came to take part in this historic moment.
The official signing ceremony took place at Mkambati Nature Reserve on Sunday the 17 October 2004. What a truly amazing day!
Despite the wind and rain, most of the people were kept nice and dry in the massive marquee styled tent provided by the Department of Land Affairs. It seated around 1500 people with hundreds and hundreds more standing outside trying to get a glimpse of the proceedings and the dignatories, most of whom were in traditional dress.
The Senior Delegates were as follows:
National Minister of Department of Agriculture and Land affairs, Ms T.Didiza Premier for the Eastern Cape, Ms N Balindlela Executive mayor - O.R Tambo District Municipality, Ms Z Capha MEC for Economic affairs and Tourism, Mr A De Wet MEC for Agriculture and Land Affairs, Mr M Mamase
Most of the ceremony was in Xhosa but we felt like we could understand every word from the excitement and electricity happening in the crowds. A few of the dignitaries even sang traditional Pondo songs that have existed for hundreds of years and the crowds responded in song, nearly lifting the roof, just proving that the Pondo culture is alive an kicking in the Mkambati community! Traditional Pondo and Xhosa dancers entertained the crowds as their drum rhythm set the tone for the masses to cheer them on.
One of the Mkambati Land Trust members, Mr Kuzwayo, gave a speech on the history of the Mkambati claim, telling the story of how the amaPondo tribe in Mkambati - 326 households - were forcefully removed from their 17 400-hectare land in 1920 after the area was zoned for the establishment of a leper institution. When the Transkei became one of apartheid South Africa�s �independent homelands� in 1976, a second forced removal took place as part of what was termed �betterment planning� and the leprosy institution was closed. Half of the land was allocated to Transkei Agricultural Corporation (TRACOR) to grow sugar cane and the other half was declared the Mkambati Game Reserve. In 2002, The Mkambati Land Trust was formed to represent 40 000 people living in the seven surrounding village wards inland from Mkambati. The Mkambati Land Trust now owns the land for and behalf of these inhabitants.
Part of the land claim covers a provincial protected conservation area that is presently used as a nature reserve. The claimants have made an undertaking to maintain it as a protected conservation area (and have even promised to double the size of the reserve in future.)
Finally the moment we were all waiting for arrived, as the three representatives stepped up to the podium to sign the document that would change the future of their community forever. To record the moment, Colin Bell leopard-crawled up to the signing table and zoomed in on the certificate that was handed to the chairman of the Mkambati Land Trust, Mr Vimba.
To show their gratitude to the Minister of the Department of Agriculture and Land affairs, Ms Toko Didiza, the Mkambati Land Trust presented her with a traditional Pondo garment as well as a cow, as a gift commemorating the special day. They rounded a up a herd of bulls that almost entered the tent, led her outside and presented her with the largest one. She was so taken back, that tears started rolling down her face.
There was an overwhelming sense of peace and contentment that came over the crowd; it almost became silent for minute or two. Then they all cheered and the celebrations began! There was enough food and tywala(traditional beer) to cater for 6000 people, so there was nothing stopping this party from happening!
Finally, after many months of hard work, we can look forward to the Mkambati Project getting off the ground. This project is a result of a unique partnership between the Mkambati Land Trust, Wilderness Safaris, the Eastern Cape Parks Board and local businessmen and aims to restore the Nature Reserve to its full potential and ensure that it is protected for posterity. This project will provide upliftment and positive change the lives of 40 000 of the poorest people in South Africa.
See you all at the new Mkambati!
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
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22 June 2004
BOTSWANA PRESIDENT PERSONALLY GIVES BLANKETS TO
BUSHMEN AND TELLS THEM NOT TO GO HOME
Plan a Bushman Safari with vacationtechnician.com
In a surprising move, last week the president of
Botswana personally visited New Xade, one of the
government sites where the 'Bushmen' were taken
after being expelled from their ancestral land.
Although it was only 3 weeks before the Bushmen
take his government to court for the right to
return to their land, President Festus Mogae was
accompanied by Sidney Pilane, the lawyer acting
for the government in the case.
Pre-judging the court's ruling, the president
told the San Bushmen that they should not try to
return to their land and also distributed
handouts of food, clothing and blankets.
He told the Bushmen: 'I am your father and I have come to
check up on my children.'
Stephen Corry, director of Survival, which is
very well-known in Botswana for its support of
the Bushmen, said today, 'To pretend that this
visit is not a blatant attempt to influence the
court case, and the British MPs' trip,* is just
na�ve.
In other countries, a visit from the head
of state - and defendant - so close to the court
hearing would not be allowed.
The irony is that the president's handouts actually reinforce the
state of dependency the Bushmen have been reduced
to. These hunter-gatherers are no longer allowed
to hunt and have been turned by the government
into beggars and prostitutes.
So the president's actions are in fact entirely in keeping with his
prevailing attitude, that the Bushmen are to be
stripped of their ability to lead lives outside
of government control. To call this 'development'
is just a mockery. It's an appalling 21st century
echo of how indigenous peoples in North America
were once robbed of their lands in exchange for a
few blankets.'
A Bushman who must remain anonymous said of the visit, 'This is just bribery.'
* A group of British MPs is due to visit New Xade
at the end of June 2004. They are: Nigel Jones, Dianne
Abbott, Tony Banks, Ashok Kumar, Alan Meale,
Roger Godsiff, Jane Griffiths, Andrew Hunter,
John Horam, Paul Keetch.
UK: New motion in Parliament on Bushmen
A second Early Day Motion has been tabled in the UK�s House of Commons supporting the Bushmen�s right to return to their homeland. 24 MPs have already signed; if you live in the UK, please urge your MP to sign too. The motion (EDM no. 1168) can be read at http://edm.ais.co.uk/weblink/html/motion.html/ref=1168. To locate your MP you can use the following website: http://www.locata.co.uk/commons/
BOTSWANA: Bushman hunters arrested
Three Bushmen from the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana have been arrested and charged with �unlawful hunting�. The three were hunting near the resettlement centre of New Xade, where they have been forced to live since the government evicted them from their reserve in 2002. The arrests are the latest in a rising tide of persecution of Gana and Gwi Bushman hunters. The Bushmen were banned from hunting and gathering in the reserve after the evictions, and since then those hunting around the resettlement centres have faced harassment, arrest and heavy fines or imprisonment. �I feel angry because I am a hunter and I�m not allowed to hunt. I have children but I don�t know how to feed them,� says one man. In the resettlement centres, the Bushmen are dependent on government rations.
For more information contact Miriam Ross on (+44)
(0)20 7687 8734 or email
[email protected]
Survival International is a worldwide organisation supporting tribal
peoples. It stands for their right to decide their own future and
helps them protect their lives, lands and human rights.
Survival International
6 Charterhouse Buildings
London EC1M 7ET
UK
Tel: (+44) (0)20 7687 8700
Fax: (+44) (0)20 7687 8701
General enquiries: [email protected]
http://www.survival-international.org
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
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June 22, 2004
DeBeers Diamonds: Last Straw for Botswana Bushman?
The court case that could decide the future of the Gana and Gwi
Bushmen will be held in July this year. Two hundred and forty-eight
Bushmen and Bakgalagadi are taking Botswana to court over the
government's forced eviction of them and their families from their
ancestral land, in what could be a test case for Bushman rights
across southern Africa.
Sign the Petition to support the Bushmen.
The case will begin on 4 July with an 'inspection in loco' of the
resettlement centres, and of the Bushman communities in the Central
Kalahari Game Reserve to which nearly 200 Bushmen have returned
despite government opposition. Fearing that their voices will not be
heard, as has been the case in previous government-led tours, the
Bushmen are calling for observers from the local and international
media to observe the 'inspection'.
The Bushmen want the government to recognise their rights to return
to their land and live there without fear of further eviction, and to
hunt and gather freely. The original case was dismissed on a
technicality in April 2002. The Bushmen appealed, and won the right
to have the case re-heard on its merits.
Note: Wildlife department permits are required to enter the Central
Kalahari Game Reserve. Entry to the resettlement centres outside the
reserve is unrestricted.
Permits are also required for filming. In the past, film makers have
sometimes been prevented from filming by the police, even when they
had the required permit.
For further information, please contact Kali Mercier at +44 20 7687
8731 or email [email protected]
--
Survival International
6 Charterhouse Buildings
London EC1M 7ET
UK
Tel: (+44) (0)20 7687 8700
Fax: (+44) (0) 20 7687 8701
General enquiries: [email protected]
http://www.survival-international.org
.::.
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and peaceful retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
.::. vacationtechnician.com = conserving the most enchanting wilderness chill out retreats on Earth .::.
Safari Field Reports
About The VacationTechnician Company
The VacationTechnician Company Conservation Campaign
June 1, 2004
DeBeers Diamonds: Last Straw for Botswana Bushman?
The court case that could decide the future of the Gana and Gwi
Bushmen will be held in July this year. Two hundred and forty-eight
Bushmen and Bakgalagadi are taking Botswana to court over the
government's forced eviction of them and their families from their
ancestral land, in what could be a test case for Bushman rights
across southern Africa.
Sign the Petition to support the Bushmen.
The case will begin on 4 July with an 'inspection in loco' of the
resettlement centres, and of the Bushman communities in the Central
Kalahari Game Reserve to which nearly 200 Bushmen have returned
despite government opposition. Fearing that their voices will not be
heard, as has been the case in previous government-led tours, the
Bushmen are calling for observers from the local and international
media to observe the 'inspection'.
The Bushmen want the government to recognise their rights to return
to their land and live there without fear of further eviction, and to
hunt and gather freely. The original case was dismissed on a
technicality in April 2002. The Bushmen appealed, and won the right
to have the case re-heard on its merits.
Note: Wildlife department permits are required to enter the Central
Kalahari Game Reserve. Entry to the resettlement centres outside the
reserve is unrestricted.
Permits are also required for filming. In the past, film makers have
sometimes been prevented from filming by the police, even when they
had the required permit.
For further information, please contact Kali Mercier at +44 20 7687
8731 or email [email protected]
--
Survival International
6 Charterhouse Buildings
London EC1M 7ET
UK
Tel: (+44) (0)20 7687 8700
Fax: (+44) (0) 20 7687 8701
General enquiries: [email protected]
http://www.survival-international.org
.::.
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense...
The Weapon of Mass Destruction?
vacationtechnician conservation
vacationtechnician Paradise Paradigm
The dolphin/human connection and healing The connection between humans and dolphins has been documented historically since ancient Grecian times and possibly even earlier. It has been proposed that the notion of unconditional
positive regard that dolphin encounters create is healing in itself. Dolphins seem to possess the extraordinary ability to trigger the healing processes within us. People have reported feelings of profound inner peace and states of euphoria after swimming with these incredible marine mammals.
Sufferers from psychological and physiological disturbances, such as acute depression, attention deficit disorders, post-traumatic depression and bi-polar disorders have made remarkable and in some cases, even permanent recoveries after swimming with wild dolphins. The sound vibrations
emitted from dolphins are said to have potent influences on the body, mind and spirit.
This hypothesis has been reinforced through the work of Dr Horace Dobbs. Dr Horace Dobbs first noted the idea that dolphins have healing powers in the UK in the mid-1970s.
Two incidents convinced him that dolphins have a special therapeutic influence on the human mind and spirit. In the first, Geoff Bold, a lifeboat mechanic who was close to nervous breakdown, swam with a friendly dolphin called Donald. After this encounter, Bold's depression was considerably lifted. A few years later, when Dr Dobbs took a group of people out to see Simo, a friendly bottlenose dolphin swimming off the coast of Wales, he was intrigued to note that the dolphin spent most time with one man, Bill Bowell. Then aged 54, Bowell had previously suffered both a heart attack and a nervous breakdown, and had slipped into a state of deep depression. The meeting with Simo was a
remarkable turning point for him. He described the dolphin encounter as more therapeutic than all the anti-depressant drugs he had been taking. After subsequent swims, Bowell started to change from being apprehensive, withdrawn and nervous into an altogether more confident and outgoing
person.
�Dolphins have always evoked in me most of the values we humans are striving for, especially freedom and love. I could never justify their confinement. Since I started in 1974, I have conducted all of my research with wild dolphins in the open sea. It was their choice to participate. They were always free to swim away at any time - and often did. It was a challenge, but I succeeded in showing that it is possible to work with totally free wild dolphins that chose to associate with humans.� - Dr. Horace Dobbs
" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."
Soul Safaris Dolphin Experience �
Located along a miles long white powder beach in southern Mozambique, a resident pod of over a hundred gentle and playful dolphins are waiting for you to join them for a stay in paradise.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
TOP TEN SAFARI RECOMMENDATIONS
#1: Best all-round safari: Jacana Safari, Botswana. Excellent choice for first safari, also ideal for single travelers as there is no single supplement if you are �willing to share�. The group of no more than 8 has 100% exclusivity in all camps.
# 2: Best �Ultimate Safari� experience: Best of Southern Africa flying safari. Traveling by private dedicated aircraft between premier camps in best areas of 4 countries (Namibia, Botswana, Zambia & Zimbabwe). Excellent review by Travel Editor of New York Times who took this trip in May 2003.
#3: Best value for money: Zimbabwe fly-in safari. The Wilderness Safaris camps in Zimbabwe are being filled by savvy Africa travelers who know that it is during these times that one enjoys the finest wildlife encounters, at attractive prices.
# 4: Best �active� safari: Rhino Safari, Zimbabwe: game drives, foot safaris with best-qualified guides in Africa (Zimbabwe full pro guides); tracking rhino on foot, boating on Lake Kariba, canoeing on Lower Zambezi River, and more.
# 5: Best �new� trip for 2004: Gorilla treks in Rwanda are back!
#6: Best combination of two countries: Botswana and Namibia. Botswana has lots of opportunities for game-viewing, the incomparable Okavango Delta and it combines perfectly with Namibia�s desert and dune experience.
#7: Most unusual destination: Madagascar. Adorable lemurs, amazing people, strange spiny forests, always the unexpected. Just don�t expect everything to work 100%�
#8: Trip most likely to be a �life-changing� event: Mana Canoe Trail, Zimbabwe.
#9: Best honeymoon destination: North Island, Seychelles. No question.
#10: �Best kept secret� safari area: Mashatu Game Reserve, Tuli Block. Too many of our clients return from Mashatu with multiple leopard sightings or other fabulous game-viewing experiences for this area to remain �undiscovered� for long.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Hello Friends,
ZIMBABWE - WORTH A SECOND LOOK?
If you are at all interested in Zimbabwe, this is one Southern African country where the prices have not increased lately, so please give us a call for a quotation. We can put together a very attractive safari including Makalolo Plains (Hwange Game Reserve) and Matusadona Water Camp (on Lake Kariba), together with Victoria Falls.
On longer itineraries, the Mana Pools area can also be included - and adventurous types may wish to do the Mana Canoe Trail between Ruckomechi and Chikwenya. I have had more than one client tell me that this safari was a life-changing event.
While Zimbabwe has lately been a controversial destination due to the political situation there, the safaris are operated in very remote and very safe areas, completely isolated from any populated towns or cities. Zimbabwe has had excellent rains so far this season, which is good news for the game later on in the year. The wildlife sightings have been absolutely awesome! On a recent safari vacationtechnician clients spotted over 20 different mammal species in one game drive in Hwange National Park � including Wild Dog, Lion, and the very rare Red Hartebeest.
NEW ZAMBIA PACKAGES
Zambia's magnificent national parks are relatively unknown, but our associates Star of Africa has unveiled a series of stunning safari destinations in four of Zambia's most game-rich areas. The lodges offer a diverse choice of environments, and represent a very exciting upmarket wildlife circuit. When managing director Dave Bennett was here in Europe recently, he told me that the game-viewing at some of the camps have been extraordinarily good, with some clients experiencing as many as 5 different leopard sightings on one game drive. Dave tells me that game-viewing in the Lower Zambezi area is very similar to that of the near legendary Mana Pools area of Zimbabwe.
Two of our clients with St. Louis Zoo Travel recently traveled to the South Luangwa region of Zambia on an inspection trip, where they spent several days with Star of Africa, whom they described as 'a real winner in Zambia'. Our clients were complimentary about the level of guiding, the accommodations and the wildlife.
Here is what they had to say about Puku Ridge: "The accommodations are superb. Each unit is huge, with a sitting area, a deck overlooking the plain, sunken tub, etc. Quite reminiscent of Jao Camp in Botswana. The dining area is nicely laid out, overlooking a pool built into the side of the hill. Wildlife is all over the place." They were equally impressed with the other camps and experienced some excellent game-viewing such as observing a pack of 22 wild dogs, large herds of Black Lechwe, good views of the endemic Thornicrofts Giraffe and much else besides, including a great number and variety of birds.
Star of Africa has now introduced several package deals which include all or some of their lodges, at attractive rates. For example the 9-day 'Zambian Spice Trail' safari includes 2 nights at each of Star of Africa's luxury lodges in the Victoria Falls area (Sussi & Chuma); Lochinvar National Park (Lechwe Plains Tented Camp); Lower Zambezi National Park (Kulefu Tented Camp) and South Luangwa National Park (Chichele Lodge or Puku Ridge). Please call or e-mail for detailed itineraries and prices which start at around $3,000.00 p.p. sharing for an 8-day 'Classic Zambezi' safari which includes 3 nights in the Lower Zambezi area.
MADAGASCAR MAKING A COMEBACK
The good news from Madagascar is that it is safe to travel to the country again. A new broom sweeps clean in the form of new President Marc Ravolamanana who is reputed to be a man of great vision.
Madagascar isn't for everybody, and at times it can be a difficult place to travel due to poor roads and other minor inconveniences. However, if you can handle the fact that not everything may happen exactly as per the timing on the printed itinerary, it may just be the place for you. Just the other day I saw comedian John Cleese in a television interview situation where the reporter wanted him to be 'funny'. All Cleese wanted to do was talk about the lemurs he had seen on a recent trip to Madagascar, where he did some charitable work. Like so many before him, John Cleese was clearly totally enchanted by these amazing creatures. He went on and on about how beautiful and entertaining they were, how many different kinds there are, and how endangered many of them were due to habitat loss. One could sense that Clease would much rather be in a forest in Perinet than the television studio he found himself in...
Anybody that's been to Madagascar can relate. I am not a great 'monkey' fan, and I generally consider the few African monkey species which I have seen, especially the cheeky Vervet monkeys, to be a bit obnoxious. By contrast, Madagascar�s lemurs are stunning. It took me all of 15 seconds to fall in love with the first species of lemur I had a good look at, namely the Ringtailed Lemur, at Berenty. Following a family group of Ringtails around on a foraging expedition at Berenty, was one of my best nature experiences ever. The mothers were casting me a wary eye, and the little ones almost seemed to be 'daring' one another to get close to me, and then dart away. I was so close that I could see the particular type of flowers that they were picking, ever so daintily but very effectively, steadily moving from one shrub to another.
So take off the watch, brush up on a few words of French, and book a trip to Madagascar. You will love the lemurs! And possibly a lot of other things too - the people, the birds, the reptiles, the spiny forest, and simply being in a country that is just so 'different' in almost every way one can imagine.
NEWS FROM SOUTH AFRICA
When is the best time of the year to visit South Africa? Definitely during the South African Spring (Fall in the northern hemisphere). South Africa is a year-round destination but the far north-eastern part of the country - where the major game reserves are located - is prone to hot, humid and often rainy conditions in the summer months from December through about March.
So if you are planning a trip to South Africa, and have some flexibility with your dates, September and October are probably the two best months. The winter months of June, July & August are good too, just a bit cold and with a significant chance of rain in the Cape.
From the outset of the year, many South African venues and suppliers have either held or lowered their rates for 2004 and 2005. There are quite a few good special offers goings, the best of which is: From May through the end of September, stay for 2 nights at either Jock Safari Lodge (inside Kruger Park), Sanbona (south-western Cape) or Shamwari (Eastern Cape) and stay for 3 nights free (Room Only basis) at either Lake Pleasant in Knysna or Steenberg Hotel in Cape Town. Sanbona Game Lodge has over 7 different Rock art sites for guests to enjoy. It is also home to cheetah as well as the 'big five' mammals. There are over 165 bird species including Black and Fish Eagle. Hot air ballooning is available as an optional extra.
The Cape Grace is offering a 4 night stay for the price of 3 nights until 19 December 2004. This is an effective 25% reduction on a 4 night stay.
Great news is that Chapman's Peak on the Cape Peninsula has reopened and the views are absolutely amazing. Even better is that Wilderness Safaris are not charging an additional fee for either their Private or Scheduled Tours utilizing the improved toll road.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Ngala South Africa
On the animal front, the head high grass has been making game viewing a little trying at times. It has also made things a little harder for the usually highly efficient wild dogs. The 18 strong pack has been missing terrified impala fairly regularly as most of the time they cannot see what they are chasing. In some areas they have resorted to trotting along as if on pogo sticks, their heads peeping up out of the grass periodically as they scan the surrounds for potential quarry. No doubt the impala are most grateful for the thick sward.
There seem to be a plethora of male leopards around at the moment. Two testosterone charged males were seen the other day in quite close proximity with scratches and other assorted wounds baring testimony to a territorial battle. These young males are trying to assert themselves as they attain adulthood.
Other highlights of the week have included, three 300-strong herds of buffalo doing their best to control the grass explosion in the south of the reserve; wave upon wave of red billed queleas surging across the skies; a juvenile great spotted cuckoo being fed by a flock of Burchell's starlings(the young cuckoo was already bigger than his hosts).
Spectator?
A recent morning drive had not been as successful as a guide would like to offer to one�s guests. Pleasant enough sightings of zebra, giraffe, wildebeest and impala had ensured that the early start had not been a complete waste of time.
En route home, we stopped to watch a mature male giraffe browsing on an Acacia nigrescens some 7-odd metres off the road. Assuming he would turn his not-altogether-unattractive rear end on us & go lumbering off through the thicket, we were surprised when he turned instead to face us, his gentle eyes looking from one member of the vehicle to the next. More surprisingly, he took first one step & then two & then proceeded until he was within a metre & a half from the Land Rover of amazed onlookers.
The only sound was the swishing of his fly-swatter tail as each guest, ranger & tracker absorbed the tranquillity of the moment � locked in his gentle stare. The awed silence persisted as he slowly ambled past us to the road & made a graceful exit from the centre stage.
I have often wondered whether it is in fact more truthful to assume that the animals are viewing us rather than us viewing them ... Now we know.
Nosy Neighbour
I�m ashamed to admit that my new neighbour has become aware of my insatiable desire to monitor her every move. I rush home every morning to watch her scuttling to and fro. An intensely house-proud single mother, I see her leave, only to watch her return, delighted with the quarry she has procured.
�She� is a species of Thread-Waisted Wasp and her home is a small hole at the bottom of my front step. I am alerted to her arrival by her incessant humming as she goes about her chores � flying off determinedly, only to return a short while later bearing a fat green caterpillar carried in her fore-legs. The caterpillar, now paralysed, is laid to one side whilst she busies herself, digging through the surface sand until she locates the well-concealed entrance holed-up by a small stone, which she easily removes. A quick visit to the �kids�, she nips inside before conducting yet another spring-clean and, finally, enters the hole backwards, dragging the debilitated caterpillar with her.
When the �kids� hatch from the eggs she has neatly laid inside the tunnel, they will spend the first few days of their short lives feeding on this caterpillar and perhaps a few others before digging their way to the surface and assuming their own allotted place in the greater scheme of things.
As she carefully replaces the stone, checking it obsessively before covering it with a thin layer of sand, I can�t help but marvel at the whole process. Not so marvel-ous if you�re a caterpillar though ...
Quelea mayhem
The noise is completely deafening. It is most impressive in the early morning as the birds wake and continue the business of building their nests in preparation for breeding. Tens of thousands of red billed queleas rouse and start chirruping at each other from the knobthorn thicket the colony has chosen to produce the next generation. The little birds have chosen this spot for the safety of the trees and also the six foot sward of thickly seeded grass that has sprung up on the gabbro derived soils. Clouds of birds swish with incredible collective synchrony as though they have rehearsed every move a hundred times. From inflorescence to heavy seed filled inflorescence they swoosh. Culms bend and sway under the weight of the little birds as they pluck protein the rich seeds, nattering excitedly to each other.
The colony has attracted the inevitable bevy of raptors. Tawny eagles seem to be the most abundant predator. They sit not really knowing where to start as great squadrons of queleas shoot by. Whalberg�s eagles look equally as gleeful and confused. A rarely seen lanner falcon, far more used to grabbing fast moving prey, has also been spotted swooping in and plucking the odd straggler from the melee. A now fat resident gabar goshawk has also made the most of the good times. We continue to watch with interest.
The coming of life
The long awaited rains have come in surplus at Ngala and have transformed it into a lush green paradise with running rivers and streams, marshy vleis and scattered pans.
As well as the vegetation growth and insect explosion the frog and toad populations have boomed in this amphibian paradise turning the nights into an orchestral masterpiece. The terrapins and tortoises are out of aestivation and are as common on roadsides as pedestrians on a London side walk. Met with mixed reactions, there have been some impressive snakes seen including two huge Egyptian cobras, big black mambas, an almost resident African rock python at Clara dam, boomslangs and more. Above all the increased birdlife has been the most interesting and surprising with sightings of birds seldom or never seen here including many black storks, African jacanas, little grebes, African spoonbills, a malachite kingfisher, painted snipes, African and Corn crakes, dozens of white winged widows and hundreds of harlequin quails.
Ngala Trackers and Rangers
Great sightings despite (or because of?) rain
The rain, mist and sleet have not been entirely unproductive. The wild dogs have been sighted daily for the last week and a half such that guests no longer believe us when we tell them how lucky they are to see these extremely endangered hounds.
A cheetah was watched in awe, tearing after a terrified impala. Unfortunately the speedy cat narrowly missed probably because impala ducked into a fog patch. The rain has caused an explosion of grass growth. This, combined with the damp conditions, has brought a number of seldom seen birds. White winged widows (one record prior to this year), harlequin quails, fan-tailed cisticolas and kurrichane buttonquails have abounded in the long wet grasslands. Two sightings of painted snipe have also delighted birding guests peering out from under their ponchos. We have even had our first record of a corn crake!
Until next time we will be trying not to drown as the Timbavati moves into day 21 of uninterrupted flow.
Canine Chaos
We rounded the corner 100 metres from camp to find their patchy tan-white-and-black forms lightly trotting away from us. �Wild Dogs!� The eyes of the guests, who knew about the second-most endangered carnivore in Africa, lit up.
We followed them at their easy gait, watched them enter the Mopane woodland, and then circled around ahead to wait for them to emerge onto a large clearing. Our hearts stopped as we saw a large herd of impalas on the clearings feeding alongside a troop of baboons. All eyes were fixed on the edge of the thick Mopane woodland. The treeline exploded as the 15 Wild Dogs raced into the clearings. Impalas snorted and kicked their heels as they zig-zagged away from the danger; baboons barked and hurtled in a beeline for the safety of the Mopane trees. Unusually, the pack of hunters seemed overwhelmed and tried to chase all in sight - their lack of focus proved to be their downfall, as they regrouped in the clearing empty-handed. Slowly, we started breathing again...
Timbavati Flood
The Timbavati River is dry for most of the year. It is a wide river stretching over 60m in some areas. The recent deluge in the lowveld has transformed the Timbavati and its tributaries. The river came down in flood two weeks ago. It flowed 1.5 metres deep bank to bank making it utterly unfordable. Its smaller tributaries also broke their banks in some areas and filled the waterholes to over flowing. And so from a landscape of dust and desolation, devoid of grazing and water, Ngala has turned into a lush green swathe dotted with pans and wallows. The grass is almost too tall to look over. It has sent up inflorescences on long culms to pick up and send pollen off on the wind. Unusual birds for Ngala have been spotted (white winged windows and harlequin quails) and the herds of buffalo have dispersed to smaller groups to take full advantage of the abundant grazing and water. We eagerly await more as the clouds build.
Battle of the Wahlberg's
Heading home after game drive at night can be a fairly quiet affair. Not so on this particular evening! The spotlight caught the flurry of movement as a large shape launched itself from the branches of a Combretum in the East & landed in a heap on the other side of the road.
The shape was in fact two Wahlbergs� Eagles locked in battle � their talons clenched, tumbling around the ground: biting, scratching - neither of them prepared to capitulate. The sounds of their shrieking cut through the night air & gave the effect of a wild, angry banshee. Coupled with their thrashing about in the underbrush, the eerie sounds were their only give-away as we sat speechless in the dark and cold night air.
The next morning, the only evidence of the great battle was the tell-tale scuff-marks in the sand, littered by an occasional feather ...
Ngala's Gold Medal Winner
Just a few minutes into our morning safari a female cheetah was spotted just ahead of us. We hadn�t even seen her yet when we noticed a heard of impala feeding very close by. Seconds later, we saw her. She was trotting straight at the impala, her face blank and her eyes bright in total concentration just like an olympic sprinter poised in the starting blocks.
At that moment, I felt like the sprinter. With everybody hushed and holding my breath all I could here was the blood pumping through my eardrums as my heart rate shot through the roof. The start gun in this case was the ear piercing blast of an impala alarm call. I still close my eyes and see the rest in slow motion. The impala took off in every direction, one straight towards us followed by the sprinting predator now turned Ducati superbike leaning over like Valantino Rossi in the last tight bend towards the finishing line. The finishing line in this case was right behind us and she got the gold medal: a young female impala!
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Africa's three big cats - lion, leopard and cheetah - all capture and kill their prey in much the same manner as a domestic cat kills a mouse. The body proportions, dentition and claws of all cats - from lions to lynxes - is basically the same. Body size, social habits and habitat preferences are what separates most members of the family Felidae.
Although the way in which large cats stalk or approach their prey differs, the actual method of killing is similar. The first objective is to bring the quarry to the ground, and for medium-sized prey this is achieved by grasping the hindquarters. With its feet firmly on the ground, a lion or leopard pulls an antelope to the ground by hooking its talons into its rump and tugging downward. If in pursuit of fleeing prey, cats reach out with their forepaw to trip their quarry. For very large prey such as buffalo, lions may jump onto the animal's back, using their own body weight to topple the victim. Once an animal is off its feet, the cat goes for the throat or muzzle, clamping its jaws tight to suffocate the prey. With small prey, a bite is delivered to the neck to sever the spinal chord.
Whenever a cat hunts and dispatches prey, it must minimise the chance of injuring itself - a sprained leg or broken canine tooth, could easily lead to starvation.
In many parts of Africa, lion, leopard and cheetah occur side-by-side. They are able to coexist because they have different habitat and prey preferences, which reduces competition. Different hunting strategies are employed not only by the different big cats, but also for the various prey species which they hunt.
Leopard
The leopard is the most adaptable of Africa's big cats, with the widest range of prey. Large males can tackle quarry up to the size of adult Topi although they rarely take such risks. Medium-sized and small antelope, as well as warthog, are favoured prey in most areas. The leopard relies on its stealth and patience to approach its prey. Successful hunts usually demand that the leopard surprises its victim, pouncing before it can react and pulling it to the ground. Smaller prey, such as hyraxes, hares and monkeys may be chased and cornered before being clawed and bitten on the back of the neck or throat. In some parts of their range, leopard are almost entirely nocturnal hunters, but in other areas (notably the South African lowveld) they are active throughout the day. Individual leopards may acquire a preference for certain prey animals and develop particular hunting strategies. Warthog may be captured as they leave or enter their underground burrows, entailing a lengthy wait for a patient leopard. Catfish will be plucked from shrinking pools at the end of the rainy season by a leopard which ignores other quarry.
Lion
Lion are the only truly social cats and adult females typically hunt in pairs or groups. When hunting favoured prey such as wildebeest or zebra, lions usually stalk to within 30 metres before rushing at them. In most cases the lions will wait until the quarry has turned away or has its head down. Once it detects danger, the victim bolts but it may be too late. On rare occasions, (and invariably in daylight) lion may ambush prey, with one member of the pride lying in wait as its partner forces the quarry to run in its direction. The sheer abundance of prey can also determine hunting strategies. When great herds of migratory wildebeest are milling about, lions can simply rush into them and pull down one or more of the confused animals. When the same herds gather to cross the Grumeti or Mara rivers, lions simply wait at favoured crossing points and pick off the startled wildebeest. Although male lions have the reputation (quite deserved) of pirating free meals from hardworking lionesses, they are called upon when extra large prey is tackled. Several females may corner and threaten a buffalo, but it will usually take a big male to topple such a beast. In northern Botswana, some large lion prides have taken to preying on young and even sub-adult elephant, and this entails tight teamwork to separate their targets from defensive adults. In South Africa's Kruger National Park, lions appear to have become adept at killing giraffe by attacking them on tarmac roads where the tall mammals lose their foothold on the slippery surface. Lions generally have a higher success rate when hunting after dark.
Cheetah
Built for speed, cheetah hunt by day. They are less reliant on stalking than leopard or lion, but most successful hunts involve walking slowly towards their prey, and �freezing' their posture each time the quarry looks in their direction. Once a cheetah gets to within a range of 50 metres or less, it will sprint towards the prey, instantaneously singling out one individual. With its quarry in full flight, the cheetah's strategy is to catch up with it and strike out, clipping its back legs. The faster a gazelle or antelope is running, the more readily it tumbles. Such a fall may cause a broken leg, but within seconds the cheetah takes hold of its victim's throat and clasps its jaws tightly. Cheetah only have about 300 metres in which to catch their prey, because they cannot continue at full speed beyond that. Gazelles often evade cheetah by turning sharply, while animals which stand their ground are rarely attacked. Cheetah are less adaptable than lions or leopards, but some individuals may become adept at hunting in thick bushland where sprinting is impossible. At Kwandwe, in the Eastern Cape Province, some Cheetah have broken all the 'rules' and have taken to hunting on moonlit nights.
Watching any of the big cats on the hunt is one of the most thrilling elements of a safari. With astute and sensitive guides and an intimate knowledge of predator territories vacationtechnician guided safaris provide some of the best opportunities to witness this behaviour.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
"When my mother took me to Botswana and Zimbabwe in 2001, I fully expected it to be the "trip of a lifetime," never imagining that I would become so passionate about Africa, needing to return every year. So, yes, Africa is the best vacation place I've ever been. Why?
First and foremost -seeing the wild animals in their natural habitat. I have had a lifelong love for animals and have refused to set foot in zoos for over 30 years.
I can't begin to describe the thrill when first seeing a herd of elephants on the shore of the Gache Gache River in Zimbabwe. Or, getting within five feet of the mountain gorillas in Uganda. For me, NOTHING can compare to those experiences.
I think, for me, Africa provides an experience that is so profoundly different from my day-to-day existence. I live in San Francisco and have lived here, in the heart of the city, for my entire adult life. While I've visited Paris, London, Rome, Florence, Venice, Brussels, New York, which all have their individual charm and beauty and excitement, they are, for me, just variations of all major cities.
It was not until I visited Africa that I realized that I am no longer intrigued or even interested in spending my vacations that way--running around a city, going to museums, hanging out in cafes, finding restaurants, shopping, etc. etc. I can do all that home.
Africa allows me to just be....I am forced to relax and just look and listen and smell...No other place on earth provides that type of serenity".
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"The answer to the question for me is absolutely, completely, whole-heartedly, YES.
I have been completely around the world over a period of 2 years, years ago.
Went from east to west (starting in the states and then Hawaii, Japan etc.). Other times I have visited and lived in several countries.
Out of all of these, Africa is my favorite. Africa is special.
Outside of Africa, the country that makes the deepest impression is India, however I will never consider it a holiday - it is an experience. Some favorite cities - Kyoto, London. Crete was a wonderful holiday location.
But for me, an animal lover, everything pales compared to Africa.
-Waking up in the bush and wondering what wonderful animals I'll see today...?
-Heading out to a new camp and wondering what interesting people I'll meet.
Typically when we travel in other places we don't meet a lot of new people, at least not long enough to have a two-hour dinner conversation.
Wonderful, adventurous people that are also traveling and kind gentle people who live in Africa. I just feel that traveling in Africa was like nothing else I had done before and yes, it meant so much to me that I wish everyone I know could experience it.
I never felt so alive as I did there".
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
A Rhino in Botswana's Okavango Delta sizes up vacationtechnician wildlife-watchers. "Safaris might be the key to winning the conservation battle in Africa," says Colin Bell, whose company won the World Legacy Award in the Nature Travel category.
On June 8, 2004, at National Geographic's Washington, D.C., headquarters, Queen Noor of Jordan is scheduled to again present the World Legacy Awards (WLA) for sustainable tourism�a joint program of National Geographic Traveler magazine and Conservation International (www.wlaward.org).
Queen Noor presided over the first WLA ceremony last year, announcing winners in three categories: Nature Travel, Heritage Tourism, and Destination Stewardship. Each winner works to protect the natural and cultural quality of the places we visit, supports local communities, and gives us lasting travel memories.
This week, in anticipation of the 2004 ceremony, we present the winners of 2003 as described in Traveler (September 2003), starting with the Nature
Wilderness Safaris, Southern Africa
"To me, there is no more uplifting, inspirational, or educational form of travel than a safari," Colin Bell, founder of Wilderness Safaris, tells me. So I'm learning in northern Namibia at the company's Skeleton Coast Camp, a 600,000-acre (240,000-hectare) reserve, one of 44 eco-friendly Wilderness Safari camps in seven African countries. The experience is more than just touring Earth's oldest desert (55 million years) with sand dunes that vibrate and hum under the chilly Atlantic winds. It's more than tracking springbok and desert elephant; more than combing beaches flecked with garnet, agate, and diamond; more even than visiting the nomadic Himba to witness their centuries-old way of life. It's complete immersion in the large, fantastic world of the desert.
When I ask if any industrial use threatens this land, our amiable guide, Douw Steyn, says, "Yes. It's widely used in the tourist trade." He shows us a gravel plain lacerated by the truck tires of joyriding tourists, saying the tracks will take a century or more to disappear. Southern Africa-based Wilderness Safaris, by contrast, has built its reputation on minimizing tourism damage and maximizing its benefits to both people and nature.
At the Mombo Camp in Botswana's Okavango Delta, for instance, my gin and tonic came with a slide show on the Wilderness Safaris backed rhino reintroduction program here. Poachers eradicated rhinos here in the early 1980s, but now 21 white rhinos nibble about. On a walking safari at Jao Camp, also in the Okavango, local guide Frank Mashebe thrilled guests by unlocking the secrets of�of all things�termite mounds. (They have an air-conditioning system, for instance).
Wilderness Safaris won its award partly because it hires, trains, and promotes talented locals like Mashebe. At Botswana's Savuti Camp, another skilled guide, Benson Siyawareva, tracked down the rare African wild dog, or "painted wolf." Only 5,000 or so still roam, but he finds a pack of 16�the gift of conservation.
"Our conservation ethic and community-based tourism model have resulted in threatened land becoming protected," Bell tells me. "And our Children in the Wilderness project, which has given week-long safaris to a thousand underprivileged African children, should help create the next generation of African conservationists."
For more information book via safari specialists such as New York-based vacationtechnician.com.
Watch for the Heritage Tourism winner in two weeks, and the announcement of the 2004 World Legacy winners on June 8.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
As they padded across the grass in unison, there was something distinctly otherworldly about them.
This pride of white lions has been brought to Britain as one of the rarest attractions of the animal kingdom. It is estimated there are only 70 in the world -- and four are now on show at the West Midland Safari Park in Worcestershire, southern England.
At a cost of $500,000, 16-month-old Mubuto, his sister Natasha, their half-sister Johanne, 15 months, and unrelated Maryn, 19 months, were bought from the Kruger National Park in South Africa.
The animals are not albinos because their tawny eyes are the same as any lion, but they are affected by a genetic condition known as leucism, which means they lose the normal pigmentation in their skin and fur.
In the wild, such cubs are sometimes killed by members of their pride, or picked off by hyenas. They also make profitable targets for poachers.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
PHOTOGRAPHY
The choice of the correct camera equipment and film will determine the quality of your photographs on the trip. For good photography of birds and animals, a good SLR camera and telephoto lens is necessary. A zoom lens can be extremely useful on safari and the minimum recommended size is 200mm.
Consideration should be given before travelling with any lens bigger than 400 mm as most interesting shots are taken using hand held equipment. The new high-resolution digital cameras are outstanding and give great quality images, especially if you are using a digital camera body which takes normal camera lenses. Camera bodies like the Canon D60 and 1D are superb. The advantage of digital photography is that one can get instant feedback and adjustments can be made in the field to your techniques to ensure that your photographs are the quality that you would like. Color reversal film (slides) will give far better quality than prints.
Our guides have found that they are getting the best results using Fuji film. Fuji has brought out a good high-speed film that gives good color with very little grain (less so than any of their competitors). This is especially useful when using a big lens in low light situations. The guides' personal preference is the slower film (either 50 or 100 ASA) as this gives almost perfect quality for normal light. However, you may consider going to 200 ASA for a larger lens in low lighting conditions. The new Fuji 400, we believe is giving great results too.
The only disadvantage with the low ASA film is that you need a tripod for the early morning and evening shots.
IMPORTANT: BRING SPARE FILM (ALTHOUGH IT IS AVAILABLE IN MOST CAMPS/LODGES) AND A SPARE CAMERA BATTERY.
PASSPORTS & VISAS
International visitors require a valid passport together with onward travel documents. All passport holders should verify with vacationtechnician or relevant consulate concerning visa entry requirements. If you are extending your journey to other countries, please establish entry requirements for those countries as well. Please ensure that you have all the necessary visas prior to departure (unless available on entry).
VIDEO
Charging facilities for video cameras are very limited on the safari, so please bring enough batteries to last you at least 3 days of video filming. If you have a 12V charging pack which can be connected to the vehicle via the cigarette lighter, you may be able to charge your battery when it is travelling on the longer drives. Please bring your own attachment to connect your charger or video to the cigarette lighter.
WALKING
Walking is not allowed in the Chobe National Park nor the Moremi Game Reserve. It is allowed outside these reserves including much of the Okavango Delta. Walking can, however, lead to encounters with potentially dangerous WILD ANIMALS. Walking is, therefore, at your own risk. Never walk around unescorted.
DRIVING CONDITIONS
If visiting remote areas or national parks and reserves, the roads could be rough and bumpy and occasionally we will travel "off road", where it is possible that injuries may occur - if for example a hidden pothole is struck. Neither the vacationtechnician nor our staff members, associates nor agents can be held liable for any accidents or any damages!
RESPECTING WILDLIFE & SAFETY WHEN STAYING AT SAFARI CAMPS/LODGES
The wild animals are not like those found in theme parks They are not tame.
Most of the safari camps are unfenced and dangerous animals can (and do!) wander through the camps. Many of the animals and reptiles you will see are potentially dangerous. Attacks by wild animals are rare. However, there are no guarantees that such incidents will not occur. vacationtechnician, our staff members, associates, agents, or their suppliers can be held liable for any injuries caused during an incident involving the behaviour of wild animals.
Please listen to the camp staff and guides. The safety precautions need to be taken seriously, and strictly adhered to.
Do not go wandering off on your own without a guide -even to your tent.
After retiring to your tent at night, don't leave the tent!
Observe animals silently and with a minimum of disturbance to their natural activities. Loud talking on game drives can frighten the animals away.
Never attempt to attract an animal's attention. Don't imitate animal sounds, clap your hands, pound the vehicle or throw objects.
Please respect your driver-guide's judgment about proximity to lions, cheetahs and leopards. Don't insist that he take the vehicle closer so you can get a better photograph. A vehicle driven too close can hinder a hunt or cause animals to abandon a hard-earned meal.
Litter tossed on the ground can choke or poison animals and birds and is unsightly.
Never attempt to feed or approach any wild animal on foot. This is especially important near lodges or in campsites where animals may have become accustomed to human visitors.
Refrain from smoking on game drives. The dry African bush ignites very easily, and a flash fire can kill animals.
SATELLITE & IRIDIUM TELEPHONES
Telecommunications in the urban areas are easily accessible but please note that the campsites you may be visiting could be located in very remote parts of Southern Africa and do not have telephones.
An increasing number of guests have been bringing satellite phones along with them on safari. As most people come on safari to get away from it all, we feel that we must set some limitations on the use of these phones when on safari. We suggest the following guidelines on the use of satellite phones:
1. Please ensure the ring tone is kept at a low volume to avoid disturbing other guests.
2. Please use your phone in the privacy of your tent and not any of the common areas: dining area, bar/lounge area, or on any of the vehicles or on game drives.
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Michael Wines
New York Times
Friday, April 2, 2004
Excerpt:
Full Article Here
The British are coming to South Africa: 463,000 of them last year, up 45 percent in the last five years. So are the Germans: an increase of more than 50 percent since 1998. The Chinese may be the fastest-growing segment of all: More than 33,000 visited in 2003, an increase of almost 30 percent in a year.
And Americans? They have not come - not in the numbers dreamed of by South African hoteliers, restaurateurs and safari operators, who have now set about to change that.
South Africa is pursuing the American tourist - the last big game, so to speak, to elude this nation's increasingly savvy tourism industry. Last month, the government tourism office opened a Web site, www.southafrica.net/heritage, aimed at black and white Americans intrigued by the country's lush culture and uplifting recent history, and commercials extolling its charms are playing on U.S. television.
The idea, says Prudence Solomon Inzerillo, president of South African Tourism: U.S.A., is to broaden the nation's appeal beyond its base of aging baby boomers to a new, pick-up-and-go class of younger American urbanites who want a new thrill.
"They've heard of South Africa, but they're not quite sure what it holds," she said in a telephone interview from her Manhattan office. "Most Americans have a hard time with Africa. If something negative happens, they think it is happening all over the continent." The challenge, she said, is to separate South Africa's generally upbeat story from some of southern Africa's more problematic ones.
On the face of it, South Africa does not seem such a hard sell to Americans. This is Africa's first-world outpost - an effusively friendly English-speaking land with a rich mix of European and African culture, heart-stopping scenery and sophisticated food.
But, as for many tourist-hungry nations, Americans are a difficult sell these days. The threat of terrorism has affected travel by Americans far more than those from other countries; the U.S. economy also has been a factor...
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Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
On the 3rd & 4th of March 2004 we accompanied the Mkambati Land Trust and all the chiefs & their headman to Ndumo & Rocktail Bay Lodge South Africa.
Leaving at 3am, in the pouring rain on a slippery dirt road was no fun, but once we had collected everyone there was an amazing sense of excitement and anticipation buzzing around the coach. When the bus arrived in the community, it was like nothing anyone had ever seen, it was as though a space ship had landed and the pneumatic doors were a huge fascination.
We had our little one year old with us, and she was like a mascot, everyone had a turn to baby-sit, they even gave her a Xhosa name- Monampondo (little Pondo girl). She was feeding the Lady Chief her cheese curl chips!!!
The rainy cold weather was soon forgotten and all they wanted to do was watch videos. We showed "Hole in the Wall" documentaries, the Wilderness Safaris "Conservation Through Tourism" video, "The greatest Shoal on Earth" as well as Paul Newman Classics such as "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid" and "Road to Perdition".
We stopped just outside of Durban at an Ultra City for breakfast; most of them were totally confused with the sugar sachets and through them into their tea as is, paper and all! It was back on the long road after breakfast. Chatting to some of the ladies, most had never been further than Durban so for them this was an adventure to say the least. We had loads of discussions and meetings and really got to know each other on a personal level.
Jozini dam was the next leg stretching stop, everyone loved the scenery and took plenty photographs.After a beautiful singing session and a prayer by Mr. CK Qalaba, vice chairman of the Trust, we arrived at the Ndumo turn off at 4pm and the Mkambati Land Trust members hopped off the coach and got onto two landrovers that were waiting for them, major excitement and countless photos were taken of them on the vehicles. The chiefs and headmen remained on the bus with Linda and Tatum and went off to Rocktail Bay. It was still pouring with rain and out came the ponchos, well this everyone loved, all you could see were little eyes peeping back at you and huge smiles!
Arrival at Ndumo:
Jono & Nelly did an amazing welcome, everyone was totally overwhelmed. Mr. Nogilla nearly suffered from severe burns getting hot water out of the pump flasks at the camp fortunately we caught him in time. Once everyone went to their tents I never saw them! But boy could I hear them! That camp was vibrating with excitement. Dinner time came and everyone piled into a wonderful spread. Immediately after dinner, everyone went to bed, like clock work. The next morning some folk went on the boat & others on the Landrover. They all had a wonderful time and got to see what Ndumo is all about. Brunch came and went in a heartbeat, I recon 60 eggs were consumed. Jono then took everyone and showed them the back of house and the staff accommodation. Having Jono and Nelly as the Managers, was really an eye opener.
We then made our way to Rocktail Bay, South Africa...
We parked the coach at the Cashew Nut Plantation, and hopped into a landrover, thank goodness it had drop down sides as by this time it was raining cats and dogs. Needless to say everyone still wanted a poncho as the other group used them. It was a long and tedious road to Rocktail and we only arrived at the camp at 6pm, fifteen hours traveling, and everyone was still smiling, only too happy to have arrived at our destination. We were warmly welcomed by all Rocktalians, given a quick brief and shown to our rooms.
Meeting back at the pub for dinner, there was an air of satisfaction; we had all had hot showers and were feeling great. Drinks were served and when asked how they liked their rooms they all broke into a sing song of how wonderful they were.
Dinner was amazing as usual, and as the last knife and fork were put together, all the chiefs and headmen stood up in unison and excused themselves, they were off to bed........and could not wait to get back to their rooms to enjoy their luxurious accommodations.
In the morning, there was no sign of anyone, the guys only came out of their rooms at 9am, I asked them if they had overslept and they said no they had been up since 6am, enjoying their rooms!
They had a quick breakfast, trying everything on offer and then Simon took them on a tour of the lodge, back of house and to the beach. We said our goodbyes and off they went to Ndumo, in drier conditions thank goodness.
The Trust arrived at Rocktail at 2.30pm, very excited about the animals they had seen and the overall experience. We had high tea and zooted off to the beach, all in swimming gear. They took one look at the rough surf and plonked themselves on the sand dune. Charles, the coach driver and one of the Trust members braved the ocean, they were tossed around like corks and the rest of us had a good laugh. We had a short meeting on the beach and went back to the lodge to shower.
After an early dinner, we asked who wanted to go on a turtle drive and to our surprise everyone was keen, so off we went with Gugu and Mbongeni, and managed to see a nest of loggerheads scrambling for the sea. Everyone was amazed, asking questions and very concerned for the young hatchlings who had been nabbed by the crabs already. Back to the lodge for a well deserved sleep, as we were up early for our long road home.
After breakfast Robbie took us on a tour of the back of house, and we departed with thick clouds looming in the distance.
Sadly we departed for the long road home, collected the chiefs from Ndumo and we were on our way, and the rain came down!! Being in the coach was like being inside a beehive, chattering and laughing, stories about Ufudu (turtles) and crocodiles.
We stopped at the large craft and fresh produce market just outside of Empangeni, the guys bought gifts for their families and copious amounts of those small sweet pineapples, we have to confess we indulged in some too!
The last stop was the Ultra City for a take away dinner and then all the way home in the rain.
The last stretch on the gravel road was hair-raising to say the least, the coach was slipping and sliding all over the show, but Johan our driver was fantastic and handled the awful conditions like a pro, he got us all home safely.
After dropping everyone at their homes, we arrived at the entrance to the Reserve at around 2am, exhausted and happy to be in one piece, only to find they had dug a huge hole on the road to lay a pipe...so we had to maneuver around the pine trees around the back with the coach, we managed to get around and finally got to the cottages for a well deserved sleep........except Tatum, our one year old was wide awake after all the activity, so we got to bed at around 3.30am but it was the best sleep we have ever had!
The next day Charles followed the bus out to the tarred road, there must have been 2000 people standing in the rain alongside the road, just to get a glimpse of the "space ship" how they knew it was coming through at that time we don't know.
The trip was more than worthwhile; to have been able to expose these good folk to the "Wilderness Way" was truly a pleasure. We have had a tremendous response to it all and have certainly paved the way forward.
Rocktail Bay Lodge is situated in the northern reaches of the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park in northern KwaZulu Natal, South Africa. This whole area has been declared a World Heritage Site. Situated offshore from Rocktail Bay is the Maputaland Marine Reserve which offers an additional sanctuary with extraordinary diving and snorkelling encounters with huge shoals of fish, dolphins and whales.
The lodge is situated meters inland from the warm Indian Ocean and the most incredible beaches in all of South Africa. Surrounding Rocktail Bay to the north and south of the lodge there must be something like 40km of pristine and undisturbed beaches. Rocktail Bay itself was named after a trawler that sank off the Bay many years ago. The lodge is built out of the wind, just inland from the beach and within the forest canopy of vegetated dunes that occur along Maputaland's coastline. Rocktail offers perhaps the most private beach experience in South Africa, with a pristine coastline where it is possible to walk for hours without meeting another soul.
Accommodation is in 11 "tree-house" chalets. Each en suite room has its own balcony and an additional outdoor shower in the forest. The main area of the lodge has an inviting lounge, and meals are enjoyed either in the main dining room, at the poolside or outdoors under a huge Natal Mahogany tree.
At Manzengwenya, 11km south of the camp, we have our own fully accredited dive-centre with an unrivalled diving operation anywhere in South Africa. We offer boating excursions out to sea and around low tide to enjoy SCUBA (and snorkelling) on the pristine coral reefs offshore. (Please take special note that dive certification and pre-booking is compulsory for SCUBA activities).
Other lodge activities include fly-fishing, snorkelling, swimming and drives to Black Rock, the nearby hippo pools and to the surrounding community in open 4x4 Land Rovers. During the summer months Rocktail Bay Lodge is integrally involved in the ongoing turtle research that has been going on since the 1960s. Guests are able to accompany the resident turtle expert on research drives at low tide at night helping to monitor the turtle's nesting numbers and the turtle's behaviour.
NDUMO WILDERNESS CAMP is one of the oldest game reserves in South Africa having been proclaimed in 1924. It is situated in the Maputaland region of northern KwaZulu/Natal just south of the Mozambique border. Ndumo Game Reserve is about 10 000 hectares in extent and boasts approximately 60% of all bird species found in South Africa. The Green Coucal, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Pink Throated Twinspot and African Broadbill are among the residents throughout the year. Game includes both Black and White Rhino, Buffalo, Giraffe, Blue Wildebeest, Zebra, Hippo, Crocodile, Nyala, Red Duiker and the elusive Suni, plus a wide variety of antelope and general game. All tents are equipped with the following for your convenience: bath towels, hand towels, torch, laundry bag and list, mosquito coil, insect repellent spray & bird list.
Ndumo Wilderness Camp has a large area of wooden decking and boardwalks. Stiletto type heels can get caught in the cracks and can cause damage to the woodwork. They are therefore discouraged ;-)
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