North Island: One hour by launch out of Victoria, the Seychelles islands' sleepy capital (I opted out of the chopper ride), I waded ashore at North Island, a just-opened private island hideaway cum eco-Noah's Ark in the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. I found my way to the main lodge, designed by South African architect Silvio Rech to dramatize the Seychelles' ancient role as a crossroads of Asian, Indian and African cultures. Rech underlined the theme with a hand-crafted ensemble of rich woods, intricate details and contrasting textures: The lodge's floors gleam with teak and sand-blasted pine, and thick, gnarled trunks of takamaka and casuarina trees support thatch roofs woven by Balinese artisans from imported ylang-ylang fronds. And not a wall in sight: The "rooms" are open to every tropical breeze and sea sound. The result is beyond stylish. It is, as a visiting Londoner observed, "achingly hip and sexy--the perfect place for a fashion shoot." Robinson Crusoe, meet Giorgio Armani.
Not bad for an island that Jon Duncan, North Island's environmental manager, tells me "had been abandoned and ecologically degraded for decades." Enter Wilderness Safaris, which operates upscale, ecologically responsible safari lodges and bush camps in seven African countries. In 1998 Wilderness introduced what Duncan calls "the Noah's Ark concept"--a total ecological restoration to protect and restore North Island's native flora and fauna. Some of the species to be reintroduced, such as the giant Aldabra tortoises for which the islands are famous and the Seychelles magpie robin, are rare, and this may be one of the only places you'll see one in the wild.
Arriving at my villa, an imposing spread of nearly 5,000 square feet, I'm happy to see that nonendangered humans are also well-sheltered on North Island. Each of the island's 11 secluded thatch-roof villas has its own distinctive setting. In my villa, number 2, the master bedroom comes with a 180-degree view of the sea, floors of burnished teak and, under a cathedral ceiling, an immense bed carved from dark Indonesian wood. My compound also includes a plunge pool and a study with satellite TV and high-speed Internet connections. And of course Nisbert, my personal butler, has his own spiffy little kitchen to see to my drinks and snacks.
It's hard to break away from these posh digs. According to one staff member, "Some guests, especially honeymooners and big names, immediately vanish into their villas for their entire stay." Too bad. Outside, they could prowl the island's coral reefs or swim with the docile whale sharks that hang out just offshore.
Back at the ranch, Chef Geoffrey Murray, formerly of SoHo's Boom and Miami's Bang, prepares a flavorful and refined fusion of traditional Seychellois cuisines: Asian, Indian, African and French. Says Geoff, "When you blend local produce with Creole flavors, something wonderful happens." Geoff's happenings usually involve tuna, sea bass, snapper and other fish caught minutes before in North Island's waters, often by guests, and grilled over a banana-leaf fire. The lodge's outdoor dining area, like the rest of North Island, combines the rustic with the refined: simple tables crafted from weathered timber set with Milanese linens, French porcelain and glasses of Reidel crystal.
The dining area also attracts an unusual clientele: large hawksbill turtles that crawl ashore to nest on the beaches, sometimes at tableside. No charge for the floor show.
::::
Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoiled gem in the purest sense.
Posted by vacationtechnician at April 20, 2004 02:05 PM | TrackBack