Walking Safaris in Botswana

One of the Selinda Pride at the Kwando Concession Botswana April 2003 by vacationtechnician.com

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" best guides = best safaris ~ a bad guide in the best camp will ruin your safari."

It takes about an hour to fly from the small towns of Kasane or Maun to the Selinda Reserve, one of Botswana's most remote and least spoiled private concession areas. Once you're there, with feet firmly on the ground, you'll get a whole new perspective on 'wilderness'. Walking through this harsh and beautiful terrain will reconnect you with nature ... and give you that buzz that comes from an adrenalin surge.

From my vantage point in a Cessna at about 2 000 metres above Botswana, I peered down at the flat, featureless landscape criss-crossed by well-worn elephant highways - ample proof of the region's massive pachyderm population, which at last count numbered anything between 45 000 and 80 000. I was on my way to the Selinda Reserve, which lies to the north-east of the Okavango region, near the wild and remote Linyanti Swamps, and straddles the Selinda (or Magweqana) Spillway.

Within this 1350-square-kilometre private concession area, which is held by Kasane-based safari operators Linyanti Explorations, there are two intimate, luxury tented camps. The larger Selinda, offers accommodation for a maximum of 12 guests in six tents while Zibalianja has six beds in three spacious East African-style tents. It's not the opulence of these camps that brings me to Selinda, though, but the opportunity to join in a three-day walking trail through the reserve.

Selinda's walking safaris generally start at Zibalianja (or 'Zib') camp, see through two nights at smaller 'fly camps', then finish off at Selinda (or vice versa), thus giving participants a taste of luxury at the start and end of the walk. Which doesn't mean to say that the two fly camps, Tshwene and Mokoba, are lacking more-than-adequate comfort.

On the first morning of the trail, after rising early and downing a healthy breakfast, we strode out of Zib camp shortly before 06h30. Walking single file behind 24-year-old guide Gary Hayter, we headed north across the dry floodplains. Gary's job is one that many safari guides long for and dream about - leading walking safaris through one of the last truly wild and undeveloped corners of Africa.

As we walked and talked, Gary pointed out things of interest - giraffe in the distance, a warthog scurrying away with its tail erect like a bristling antenna, fresh porcupine tracks and the scat of a spotted hyena, white with calcium. From time to time we'd stop and examine a plant, learning what the local people use it for or which animals particularly enjoy browsing it. Once, Gary stopped abruptly and pointed to lion spoor - a big male had passed this way in the early hours of the morning. We all tensed up and began to pay more attention to our surroundings, scanning any cover for a glimpse of the big cat, not sure whether we wanted to see him or not...

As we walked along I reflected on why people come to Africa, and more specifically why they would want to walk in some of the wildest parts of the continent. Walking safaris are not the best way to see wildlife. Most of the time, the animals see, hear and smell you long before you see them, and generally move off. Unless you're adept at stalking, in most reserves it's far easier to get close to game in a vehicle than it is on foot.
Grant Nel, a director of Linyanti and a former trail guide, explains, 'Being in a vehicle, you're removed from the environment and it's like looking through a window at the wildlife. But when you're on foot, you suddenly become part of the environment, the wildlife notices you and you take notice of things around you that you would never see otherwise.'

I think the adrenalin factor also plays a role. The chance of encountering lions while on foot, or of being charged by an elephant, adds a delicious touch of spice, an element of danger, that appeals to the adventurer in many of us.

Another big plus of a walking safari is the excellent birding opportunities it offers. Soon after we had stopped to watch some little bee-eaters hawking insects, we entered a glade of towering leadwood trees, grateful for the respite from the fierce October sun. A little later, I caught a whiff of wood smoke on the breeze, then spotted several tents spaced out among the trees. We'd reached our first overnight stop, Tshwene Camp, named for the baboons ('tshwene' is Setswana for 'baboon') that live in the trees nearby.

Gary's partner Michelle greeted us warmly and we were soon gratefully downing glasses of iced fruit juice. Though we'd walked only about seven or eight kilometres, we'd been going for more than four hours and most of us were feeling somewhat footsore.

We were shown to our spacious walk-in tents, then reconvened for an excellent lunch of quiche, cold meats, fresh salads and freshly baked bread. It was all extremely civilized - no baked beans and bully beef here! After a lengthy siesta, we gathered for tea before setting off for an afternoon stroll. Later, after hot showers, it was time for an iced drink at the fireside, another of Michelle's haute bush-cuisine meals, coffee and a nightcap, then early to bed.

The second day's walk was similar to the first, starting after an early wake-up call and breakfast at the fireside. It took us through mixed woodland and then mopane scrub, and past numerous dry waterholes. We saw an assortment of game, including giraffe, kudu, impala, zebra, warthog, wildebeest and tsessebe, along with a pair of black-backed jackals that scampered away as we approached.

Once again, Gary took the time to point out items of interest, chatting informally about the ecology of the area. He showed us a small shrub, the bluebush, which the local people use to clean their teeth: they chew a twig or root to form a frayed end which resembles a toothbrush.

We encountered a large breeding herd of elephants moving through the woodland, and skirted around them downwind. The elephants didn't notice us passing, and we watched them from a safe distance as they went about feeding in the forest. Later we marveled at a pair of bateleurs as they flew majestically overhead, then walk-ed up to a towering vegetable ivory palm to observe a white-backed vulture perched in it. The going became quite heavy when we had to walk through thick sand, but our spirits rose when we encountered a small herd of roan antelope.

Once again it was nearing midday when we arrived at our second over-night stop. Mokoba Camp is named for, and set under, a group of tall knob-thorn trees ('mokoba' in Setswana) overlooking a floodplain fringing the swamps of the Kwando River. It's an idyllic spot with a wonderful view from the lunch table, set atop a huge, flat-topped termite mound. The afternoon followed the pattern of the previous day - a gentle stroll to ease the stiffness from aching calf muscles, a sundowner and a brisk walk back to camp in the fading evening light.

We were up early the next morning and after a light breakfast set off on our final day of the safari. We strode across the floodplain, following fresh lion spoor for some way and at the same time admiring the enormous palms that decorate the area. Suddenly we were brought up short by Gary's terse 'Lion!' Our eyes followed his finger pointing across the grass-land: less than 100 metres away a lone lioness stood on a small mound, staring intently in our direction, her tail flicking in agitation.

For about 20 minutes she walked ahead of us, then flopped down on the side of a termite mound. We continued our walk, deviating slightly so as not to approach her too closely. She barely gave us another glance as we passed more intent on observing a group of impala feeding some distance away across the floodplains. This is what walking trails are about: getting back in touch with nature, and that buzz that comes from a jolt of adrenalin through the system.

As the sun rose higher, the breeze that had helped keep us cool for the past two days abated, and it was a relieved group of walkers who saw the welcoming structure of Selinda camp in the distance. Immediately our strides lengthened and the pace picked up. We could almost hear the ice clinking in those glasses already...

• The Selinda Walking Trail operates from 1 March to 30 November each year, accommodating a maximum of four guests at a time.

• Each trail generally lasts three days, with two nights spent in small but comfortable trails camps and the final night at either Zibalianja or Selinda safari camp.

• Trail guests should be older than 16 and younger than 70, and be physically fit, though the walks never exceed more than 7-8 kilometres in the mornings and about 3-4 kilometres in the late afternoons.

• Guests are not expected to do any camp chores. All luggage is transported by vehicle from one camp to the next each day.

• All walks are accompanied by a trained and competent armed guide, who is in radio contact with base camp at all times.

• A support vehicle accompanies the safari for the duration of the trip.

THE CAMPS
• The camps have hot and cold bucket-type bush showers and flush toilets.

• There is no electricity; lighting in all camps is by gas, paraffin or solar power. Video-camera batteries may be charged in the camp back-up vehicle, providing that you supply your own 42-volt cigarette lighter charger. There are also charging facilities in the main camps but you must supply your own adapters.

• Accommodation in the trails camps is in comfortable, walk-in tents with two single beds each, mattresses and full bedding.

• Meals on safari are table d'hôte and are prepared by the trails camp hostess around the campfire.

• All bar requirements are determined prior to departure and carried in the camp supply vehicle, which is equipped with a refrigerator.

• Laundry is washed and ironed daily.

WHAT TO TAKE
• Sturdy but comfortable walking shoes are recommended.

• Walkers should wear muted bush colours such as olive green, brown or dark khaki (no light colours such as white, yellow or light khaki). They should avoid black and peacock blue, which attract tsetse flies.

• Binoculars are essential.

• For photographers, a 70-300mm zoom lens, and perhaps a wide-angle, is probably all that's needed. Longer lenses and tripods are a liability and are unlikely to be used much.

• A good sunscreen and a broad-brimmed hat are essential year-round.\

• The winter months (June to August) can be very cold at night and in the early mornings and a warm, windproof jacket is recommended. At other times, a fleecy sweatshirt should suffice for the occasional cool moments.

• A small daypack will be useful.

PRECAUTIONS
Northern Botswana is a malaria area and suitable precautions should be taken, including wearing long sleeves and trousers in the evenings when mosquitoes are most active.

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