Okavango Delta, Botswana

Okavango is unique in Africa - a supreme wildlife area combining the best of vehicle-based game-viewing with the unforgettable experience of exploring the waterways by dugout canoe or mokoro, or motor boat.

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Sprawling languidly over the northern reaches of Botswana, a sparsely populated country of arid semi-desert in which drought is the norm rather than the exception, the Okavango Delta is an unexpected oasis of sparkling waterways and labyrinthine papyrus-lined channels, palm-fringed islands and fertile floodplains surrounded on all sides by desiccated Kalahari sandveld. The Okavango River, rising far to the north near the town of Huambo in the strife-torn Angolan hinterland, is the Delta's cord of life. The third largest river in southern Africa (after the Zambezi and the Gariep), it swells with summer rains and sweeps down from the Benguela Plateau before leveling out and meandering across Namibia's Caprivi region, where it tumbles turbulently down the Popa Falls. It enters Botswana a few kilometres north of Shakawe, and here it slows to form what is known as the Okavango Panhandle, a narrow, meandering 100-kilometre artery that eventually spills over to form the 15 000-square-kilometre fan-shaped Okavango Delta.

The Okavango Delta is one of Africa's quintessential safari destinations, one of the world's last great unspoiled and untamed wilderness areas. The largest inland delta on earth, it is an ecosystem rivalling any other in complexity and variety, the glittering jewel in southern Africa's ecological crown.

While it is true that lions and elephants probably top the list of 'must sees' for most safari goers (and the Okavango can provide them aplenty) much of the charm of this particular destination is its natural, pristine beauty. Uncounted and uncharted miles of twisting channels, often no more than hippo-width; a myriad palm-shaded virgin islands unmarred by signs of humanity; crystal-clear lagoons, their soft, sweet waters blanketed with the scented blossoms of day- and night-flowering waterlilies; and countless smaller creatures like the tiny, gem-like painted reed frogs, delicate butterflies and brilliantly coloured dragonflies dancing their way across the surface.

And then there are the birds... More than 500 species have been recorded throughout Botswana, many of them in and around the waterways of the Okavango - though don't expect to tick too many of them in amongst the papyrus, for only the few specialist papyrus-dwellers are likely to be seen here. Elsewhere, however, birdlife abounds: ducks and geese, storks and herons, the elegant but endangered wattled crane Grus carunculata, cormorants and darters, waders galore, vultures and eagles, pipits and crombecs, babblers and barbets, shrikes and sunbirds... you name it, you're likely to find at least one representative!

The Okavango Panhandle is the destination of choice for anglers from across the globe, for this is the domain of the powerful tigerfish, perhaps the best freshwater fighter of them all, as well as several delicious varieties of bream. Unfortunately though, the proliferation of commercial net-fishermen - and their unregulated activities in recent years - has caused a serious decline in the size and numbers of fish taken by sport anglers.

The dense riverine vegetation and broad sandy riverbanks do, however, attract large numbers of aquatic and other birds and this is one of the best places in southern Africa to see breeding colonies of southern carmine bee-eaters Merops nubicoides, white-fronted bee-eaters Merops bullockoides and African skimmers Rhynchops flavirostris. The Panhandle is also home to the 'uncommon' white-backed night heron Gorsachius leuconotus, Pel's fishing owl Scotopelia peli, black egret Egretta ardesiaca and a plethora of ducks, waders and kingfishers - enough to keep serious birders twitching for days on end.

Although the Panhandle has several safari destinations, these are primarily dedicated to angling and to a lesser extent to birdwatchers. This part of the Okavango falls outside of the protection offered by the Moremi Game Reserve and so there is little in the way of wildlife apart from crocodiles, hippos and the occasional sighting of the elusive swamp-dwelling sitatunga antelope. Among the better-known lodges in the region are Shakawe Fishing Camp (despite the name, a premier birding stopover), Drotsky's Cabins (angling specialists) and further downstream, Nxamaseri, noted for both its birding and fishing.

Once the Okavango River has spilled from the Panhandle to trickle through the myriad waterways of the Delta, its charm and beauty become truly evident. It takes the summer rains several months to filter their way down from the Angolan highlands, and it is not before late March that the waters begin to seep over the dry floodplains of the Delta proper. It is only months later, around July, that 'high water' is attained. This, then, is the fragile but enchanted wilderness that makes Botswana unique in all Africa, the magical magnet that draws wild animals in their thousands from across the harsh, dry surrounding countryside; a wetland acclaimed as one of the most important unspoiled ecosystems on our troubled planet.

The Okavango Delta does not have the grandeur of Kenya's Masai Mara or Tanzania's Serengeti, with a million migrating wildebeest, but this shimmering oasis in the heart of the Kalahari 'desert' is a natural phenomenon startling enough to compare with Amboseli's stunning backdrop of the glacier-clad Mount Kilimanjaro, or the natural amphitheatre of the Ngorongoro Crater. And though today there are far more visitors and operators than a decade ago, the Okavango has escaped the blatant over-commercialization that has spoiled much of East Africa, thanks in part to the Botswana government's 'low volume, high cost' tourist policies.

Most camps and lodges in the Okavango are in the 10-20 bed category, providing intimate and personal service reminiscent of Old Africa, the majority offering luxurious en suite accommodation in spacious and airy tents à la Ernest Hemingway and Robert Ruark. This is safari country in the finest tradition, although it is essential to choose your operation carefully, for much of the Delta - and many of the lodges - offers water-based activities only, with not much in the way of large game. On the other hand, a true Okavango safari should not be seen simply as another quest for the Big Five, and it is probably essential to visit at least three camps or lodges within the Delta and its immediate surroundings for a clear impression of everything the region has to offer.

Mention the word safari, though, and immediately thoughts turn to lion and leopard, buffalo and elephant, giraffe, kudu, warthog, wildebeest... Yes, the Okavango has them too, but don't expect to see them everywhere, or in the numbers associated with some of the other parks of southern and East Africa. Botswana once did have herds of wildebeest to rival those of the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem, but these are no more, decimated by the effects of veterinary cordon fences erected (at EU insistence) to ensure the health of beef herds raised to feed the masses of Europe.

However, Botswana does have - at 71 500 - perhaps the largest elephant herd outside of Tanzania, and its lions are regarded as among the biggest and most magnificent on the African continent. Herds of buffalo roam the Okavango floodplains, with occasional aggregations topping a thousand animals - an indelible memory for those fortunate enough to witness them.

Many of the safari destinations in and around the Delta are noted for their gameviewing, with regular and good sightings of lion, leopard, cheetah, hyaena and wild dog among the predators, and elephant, buffalo, hippo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and several antelope species, including greater kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros, among the rest. But the Okavango also has a few specials unlikely to be seen elsewhere in southern Africa, such as the red lechwe Kobus leche and sitatunga Tragelaphus spekei, semi-aquatic and aquatic antelope respectively, adapted to life in and around the swamps and floodplains.

These are but a few of the attractions of an Okavango safari, and I've yet to hear of a disappointed customer after a well-balanced itinerary taking in the many varied areas on offer. But as mentioned earlier, it is essential that a trip be planned and properly co-ordinated - too many visitors do leave disappointed simply because they have not done their research beforehand. Simply put, Moremi is not the Okavango, Savuti is not the Okavango, Chobe is not the Okavango ... a visit to Botswana is not necessarily a visit to the Okavango! Certainly, part of the Moremi Game Reserve falls in the Okavango, but the places generally seen by visitors to the Moremi Game Reserve (and I refer particularly to those self-drive tourists in their own 4x4s) are far removed from the heart and soul of the Delta and provide little other than a dry land experience. To experience the Okavango at its best, it is virtually imperative that one flies into a facility situated somewhere in its watery heart.

Okavango camps and lodges can be divided into several categories, and anyone planning a visit to the area would be wise to enquire into which their intended destination falls. The Okavango itself is not a game reserve or national park and vast areas of the Delta are unprotected and open to abuse, although the recent reallocation of concession areas has alleviated this to a large degree.

Some camps and lodges are situated in areas where hunting - either professional or subsistence - can and does take place (the season runs from early April to mid-September), with the result that game in these areas can be scarce, skittish and almost impossible to approach. The sound of gunfire and the sight of carcass-laden vehicles make for a disconcerting safari experience, and generally these operations are best avoided during the hunting months.

Many Okavango camps are situated in the heart of the wetlands and visitors to these are unlikely to see much in the way of game other than aquatic species such as hippos, crocs, and possibly lechwe and sitatunga. Birdlife, beauty and tranquillity are the main offerings here, while most offer outings in dugout mekoro or eco-friendly fibreglass alternatives silently punted along the channels by competent polers. Powerboat excursions - increasingly frowned upon by the eco-purists because of their noise and pollution - to explore the larger lagoons and waterways are also usually on offer, while some include walking trails with trained (and armed) guides. Two of my favourite 'water camps' are Xaxaba (run by Gametrackers) and Jedibe Island Camp (Okavango Wilderness Safaris), although there are many others I've never visited. An Okavango safari without a stopover in a water camp cannot truly be regarded as an Okavango safari!

Chief's Island is the Okavango's largest single land mass, at about 100 kilometres long and 15 kilometres wide. It is a prominent tongue of the Moremi Game Reserve that extends northwards into the permanent waters of the Delta. Flanked on the east and west by two of the Delta's major rivers, the Santantadibe and the Boro, it is a year-round treasurehouse of wildlife and is perhaps Botswana's top safari destination. There are limited accommodation options available on the island, but Mombo, run by Okavango Wilderness Safaris (OWS), is famous for its big game. This camp has become renowned in recent years as perhaps the best place in Africa at which to see large packs of wild dogs Lycaon pictus. OWS have exclusive use of the area in which Mombo is situated, offering a high degree of privacy and exclusivity for their guests. As a gameviewing destination, it ranks as possibly one of the best in all of Africa.

Many of the better Botswana lodges occur in private concession areas, usually outside the national parks, where concessionaires have exclusive rights - including the very important permission to drive offroad to approach or seek animals. There can be few things more frustrating than seeing lions 200 metres off the track and not being allowed to drive closer, as is most often the case in game reserves and parks (Kenya's Masai Mara National Reserve is the notable exception). Camps in the private concessions can also offer night drives, enabling guests to see the many nocturnal creatures.

There are also lodges within the Moremi Game Reserve on the south-eastern edge of the delta, and most are located at Xaxanaka lagoon from where they operate both boat excursions into the Delta proper, and 4x4 game drives. The Moremi is one of Africa's great game reserves and at certain times of the year wildlife concentrations here can be spectacular, particularly late in the dry season between September and November. The usual drawbacks to in-park lodges and camps do, however, apply: restricted hours (sunrise to sunset) and the need to remain on the network of roads and tracks.

For those of a more adventurous spirit, or on a limited budget, there are many 'mobile safari' operators, mostly based in the Okavango's administrative capital of Maun, who will conduct safaris where the tents and camp crew move along with the clients from area to area. These trips require a more hardy approach from the participants, though there are operations ranging from total luxury to bottom-line budget. Most of the time, these camps will be set up in the game reserves and national parks, but some operators have negotiated the limited use of concession areas.

An Okavango safari doubtlessly offers something for everyone, but it is its uniqueness rather than its spectacular wildlife that sets it apart from other wilderness destinations. The very fact that this huge, pristine oasis can exist in the midst of one of the driest and harshest of Africa's habitats is a miracle in itself, and one worthy of experiencing for that reason alone. The elephant, lion, leopard and buffalo are the bonus that make the Okavango Delta an unforgettable experience.

GETTING THERE
The Okavango Delta lies in the north-west corner of Botswana and although there is road access via Namibia through Mamuno and Mohembo, the entry point for most visitors is the town of Maun at the Delta's south-western limit. Maun is accessible by road and air.

GETTING AROUND
From Maun, light aircraft are the quickest and best way to get around the Delta if time is a consideration. Most of the private lodges have their own landing strips and three strips serve the Moremi Game Reserve. For the do-it-yourselfers, some of the lodges can be accessed overland, but the Delta (including Moremi) is definitely 4x4 country. Suitable vehicles can be hired in Maun if you don't fancy the long drive from South Africa, Namibia or Zimbabwe.

If you are going it alone, careful planning is essential as there are no shops or fuel stations. Campers will need to carry all their food requirements, water and mechanical spares.

BEST TIME
May through to October/November are considered the best months, with August to November being the best for game-viewing as these are the dry months when seasonal waters dry up and game concentrates around permanent water. The later your visit, however, the more chance of being caught out by early summer rains. In the wet season, from the end of November through to February, the heat and humidity are intense and the game is more widespread because of the wide availability of water. However, if you are a birding fanatic, the wet months are the time for many migrant specials. March to July can also be very pleasant with good game-viewing - the Delta is usually well greened at this time and generally there are fewer visitors. For fishing enthusiasts the best time is September through to February - fishing tackle can usually be hired at camps noted for their angling opportunities.

THE EXPERIENCE
Okavango is unique in Africa - a supreme wildlife area combining the best of vehicle-based game-viewing with the unforgettable experience of exploring the waterways by dugout canoe or mokoro, or motor boat.

GAME-VIEWING
Excellent, especially during the dry months. All the 'Big Five' are present (although rhino are extremely scarce), as are all the other plains animals associated with the African savanna. Okavango antelope specials are the red lechwe - the sight and sound of a herd surging through the shallows is unforgettable - and the elusive sitatunga.

PRIVATE CAMPS
There are about 40 in the Delta/Moremi region and they range from luxury hotel-type accommodation with aircon to rustic fishing camps. The majority fall into the 'Out of Africa' category - the 'rooms' are old-style African safari tents, well appointed and with en suite bathrooms (often reed-walled). Most are of a good standard, but inevitably some are better/more luxurious than others. Well laid-out deck/open-air lounge and dining areas are de rigueur, food is by and large excellent, and most have well-stocked curio shops.

SAFETY
Other than the possibility of petty theft (at public campsites, very seldom, if ever, at the private lodges) visits to Okavango hold no personal security risks. Nevertheless, standard precautions of locking away valuables are advised. Biting and stinging insects can be problematic and repellents should be at hand. Malaria is present so prophylactic treatment is advised - consult your doctor or pharmacist prior to your trip. Visitors should ensure that they are covered by personal medical insurance. Remember, all wild animals are dangerous, so obey camp rules to the letter; not to do so is not only stupid, it also puts other lives at risk. The Delta is often punishing hot, so a good hat, sunscreen and water should always be to hand.

BOOKS
Newman's Birds of Botswana (Southern Books) and Sasol: Birds of Southern Africa (Struik) are the best bird guides, and you shouldn't be without Chris and Tilde Stuart's Field Guide to the Mammals of Southern Africa (Struik) and Duncan Butchart's Wild About the Okavango (Southern). The Shell Field Guide to the Common Trees of the Okavango Delta and Moremi Game Reserve, by Veronica Roodt, is wonderfully informative, as is Plants of the Okavango Delta.

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