Africa's Warm Heart, Malawi

Lake Malawi with vacationtechnician

Vacationtechnician personalized luxury adventure travel transports you to the most exquisite wilderness and chill out retreats on Earth. Conserving rare biodiversity through low volume tourism; our aim is your indulgence -at no one's expense. Plan now to be assured a rejuvenating escape at a restful pace -to an unspoilt gem in the purest sense.

MAKING THE MOST OF AFRICA'S WARM HEART

Malawi, a landlocked ribbon of land hemmed in by its bigger neighbors Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique, has much to offer visitors. We pick the not-to-be-missed highlights of this diverse, friendly country, often dubbed 'the warm heart of Africa'.

LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK
For birders and wildlife enthusiasts, Liwonde is both the most accessible and one of the most rewarding options in Malawi. Situated along the southern edge of Lake Malombe, which is no more than an extension of Lake Malawi's southern tip, the park's focus is on the wildlife that thrives along the Shire River. Apart from the hippo, crocodile and elephant seen regularly within its confines, summertime also brings many migrant birds, adding to an impressive year-round species tally. African skimmers, waders and waterfowl patrol the river sandbars, while white-breasted cormorants rule the roost among the dense groves of raffia palms. Regular sightings of Pel's fishing owl, African finfoot, Böhm's bee-eater, palm-nut vultures and brown-breasted barbet will ensure 'lifers' for many of the bird buffs.

ZOMBA AND MOUNT MULANJE
Nestling below the Zomba Plateau, the sleepy city of Zomba was the country's capital until 1975, but now serves only as an administrative and university centre. Spend some time cruising Zomba's leafy streets, taking in the historical sights that reveal its obviously colonial past, and then wind your way up the gravel road that leads to the heights of the plateau. The delights at the top include the splendid views that stretch towards Mount Mulanje, and the Ku Chawe Inn, one of Malawi's premier hideaways. A stay in these lazy, balmy surroundings is all about walking in the forests and birding along the many mountain streams - or try fly-fishing for trout and bass in the surrounding dams and a round of golf at the Zomba Country Club.

Heading south from Zomba will put you on the road to Mount Mulanje, which guards the south-eastern corner of Malawi and, at 3 002 metres, is the country's highest peak. The most majestic views to be had are from the small town of Mulanje as the mountain rises in a steep and towering sweep from its dusty streets. Although it is often swaddled in layers of swirling cloud, be patient and, sometime during the day, the massif will reveal itself. If you are adventurous you may accept the challenge of a full-day haul to the top, or you can simply ramble through the montane forests. (Before climbing, contact the local mountaineering club for an update on conditions.)

The region is also the heart of Malawi's tea-growing industry. Row upon row of rolling plantations reach up to the lower slopes of the mountain, quilting the countryside in a landscape of green patchwork. If you are visiting during picking season, take a leisurely drive through the hinterlands, stopping along the roadside to share in the ways of tea picking with the rural folk.

THE LAKESHORE
Lake Malawi, covering some 23 000 square kilometers, is Africa's third-largest inland water body and the lake surrounds include a variety of habitats and ecosystems, providing many contrasting experiences for visitors.

Lake Malawi and its shore can be enthralling, but it can also be disappointing: the harsh reality is that, in numerous places, far too many people are making an unregulated living both on and along the lake's shores, raising concerns for its future as Malawi's 'great provider'. The concern is not that it is being exploited, for that is the right of a country and its citizens, but it is the general disregard for the few regulations that are in place and, in many instances, the wholesale abuse of the resources that are so alarming. No body of water, no matter how large, can continue to offer up its nutritional content indefinitely and, in return, take humankind's waste without some negative bearing on its longevity.

The ongoing deforestation, combined with poor farming practices along the lake's feeder systems and its banks, have resulted in massive soil erosion, which deposits tons of silt into the lake every year. The issue is compounded by the apparent lack of understanding and consideration by locals for the lake's future and the lack of both education and policing by the authorities. Nevertheless, the lakeshore can offer a special experience and remains a must for any visitor.

Cape Maclear and the Lake Malawi National Park
Lake Malawi's clearest and calmest waters lap the long and lazy beach that fronts Chembe Village - the focal point of the Lake Malawi National Park - on this southern peninsula. Chembe has a thriving fishing community, best appreciated by strolling the beach as the fishing boats return with the catch or by enjoying a meal in one of the many family-owned 'restaurants' in the village.

A day trip along the shoreline offers a special insight into Malawian village life, but a few nights spent on either Mumbo or Domwe islands will capture the essence of Lake Malawi. The underwater world is equally enthralling, as the lake has one of the world's richest populations of freshwater fish. Between sessions of kayaking the blue of the bay, snorkeling the shallows around the boulder-edged islands will bring you eye to eye with many of the approximately 1 000 species of cichlids, 350 of which are endemic, that occur in these waters.

Nkapola Lodge and Livingstonia Beach
Both Nkapola and Livingstonia Beach are set along the sandy edges of shallow bays, and offer visitors a one-stop holiday option with plenty of both indoor and outdoor sports and games to keep a family occupied for days. While sailing, boating, canoeing and waterskiing are available throughout the day, morning snorkeling trips may be taken to Bird Island (from Nkapola) and Namalenje Island (from Livingstonia). From Nkapola, day tours include a trip to Mangochi and the Lake Malawi Museum or to the Malindi pottery factory. The district is also well known for its intricately crafted mats, masks, baskets and carvings.

Secluded Livingstonia Beach boasts one of Malawi's most famous restaurants, offering the finest fish dishes to be had along the lakeshore.

Chintheche Lodge
Chintheche Lodge is the most ideal base from which to explore the northern shores of Lake Malawi, with Nkhata Bay to the north, Candy Beach to the south, and the surrounding highland country all within reach. While Candy offers one of the flattest and most expansive beaches on the entire lakeshore, Nkhata Bay is a bustling fishing village, tucked into the hillsides and overlooking a deep and narrow cove below. Nkhata Bay also has a well-known scuba-diving school that offers value-for-money diving courses throughout the year.

The town of Mzuzu is the capital of the north and the hour's drive there from Chintheche is a scenic wonder, passing through many rural villages along the way. Keen birders in search of the rarer coucals, louries, robins and flycatchers should spend time in the Kalwe Forest, a patch of subtropical woodland between Chintheche and Nkhata Bay.

Likomo Island
Although Likomo may be rather difficult to reach at times - unless you can track down the Ilala, the only scheduled way to reach the island - you are in for an unusual stopover. But there is no telling how long you will be there because, irrespective of your own schedule, the old steamer plies its way up and down the lakeshore on a timetable that has meaning only to its skipper. Head for either Nkhata Bay or Nkhotakota, but make sure you get there before sunrise - and then settle in for the day. Once on Likomo, accommodation options are limited, but at least two establishments offer both camping and rooms. A visit to the island is both a historical and an outdoor adventure. Spend your days marveling at St Peter's Cathedral, built by Anglican missionaries in the early 1900s, and exploring the baobab- and rock-encrusted shores, or just let it all soak away on sublime beaches and in enticing waters.

Livingstonia Mission
There are two routes to Livingstonia and both are something of a mission in themselves. The more familiar of the two passes through the lakeshore town of Chiweta before it swings left and onto a dirt road that soon becomes a mountain pass, snaking its way up the face of the Khondowe Plateau. It is not advisable to follow this route in a sedan car, and in the wet season it is often sensible not to undertake it at all. Although the route provides spectacular views, don't be distracted, as you need to stay focused on the narrow and uneven track, which has 20 hairpin bends en route. The alternative road is longer and takes you through the 'backdoor' via Nchenachena and along a meandering dirt track that passes through a number of scenic villages tucked against the surrounding hillsides. The answer, of course, is to arrive using one route and to depart on the other.

Established in 1894 by the Scottish missionary Dr Robert Laws, Livingstonia is one of only a few Malawian monuments that remain in reasonable condition. The mission has a venerable atmosphere about it, an aura that seems more apparent because of the isolated location in the airy heights atop the plateau. Livingstonia should be visited as one would a retreat - to rest and withdraw and let time slip by. Stroll among the weathered red-brick buildings - a cathedral, hospital and manor house with museum - or just sit on the mountain ridge and gaze at the breathtaking views that sweep down onto the northern lakeshore and across to Tanzania. A morning walk will get you to the impressive Manchewe Falls and back, passing through the tiny village and allowing you the chance to mingle with the locals.

Nyika National Park
Tucked away in the far north-western corner of Malawi is the largest of the country's five national parks. Encompassing the Nyika Plateau and its surrounding low-lying belts of sub-montane and miombo forest, Nyika National Park is a singularly unique part of Africa. In many ways, it defies conventional description, as it is so unlike the more typical scenery of the continent. It's a distinctive and fascinating wilderness landscape where Scottish highland moor meets rolling African savanna, the collage interspersed with conspicuous patches of relict evergreen forest. The seemingly endless panoramas have distant frames of rugged mountain vistas, their fine-edged clarity enhanced by layers of cool, crisp air. Adding to the visual impact is the very palpable mood that pervades the plateau's elevated space. It's like a soothing spirit of remoteness that allows for solitude and calm to envelop both body and mind. It is extremely apt, then, that the name Nyika, a Swahili word derived from Tanzania's old colonial name Tanganyika, literally means 'the place of wilderness'. More recently, the name has also assumed a local definition to the Phoka and Tumbuka people, meaning 'the place of the short grasses'.

Although the park does have a network of gravel roads that allow for great vehicle safaris, the horseback experience of the vacationtechnician safari takes you that much closer to the game, and riding the plains enhances the essence of Nyika's wilderness spirit. The park is well known for its healthy herds of eland, roan antelope (reputedly the densest concentration in Africa) and a subspecies of Burchell's zebra. Morning and evening walks will introduce you to the park's array of orchids (about 200 species, of which 12 are endemic) and wild flowers, and to many of its impressive tally of 450 bird species.
infotravel

Getting there
Both South African Airways and Air Malawi fly regularly from Johannesburg to Lilongwe and Blantyre. Bookings and enquiries can be made through vacationtechnician.

Health requirements
Although there are no official health requirements on entry, it is a good idea to have inoculations against cholera and yellow fever, simply because some border-post officials may insist on certificates. Most importantly, however, take precautions against malaria. Bilharzia may be found in isolated, mostly swampy areas of Lake Malawi with high population densities, but the government has recently embarked on a bilharzia control programme.

Getting around
Air Malawi has good domestic connections, but it is advisable to hire a 4x4 if you want to explore the national parks. Remember, however, that many of the roads become impassable during the wet season, so check beforehand. The road to Nyika National Park is not good, the short journey taking as long as six hours. However, Air Malawi flies in weekly, landing on the dirt runway at Chelinda Camp. If you are just traveling between Lilongwe or Blantyre and the southern lakeshore, many of the hotels and operators have shuttle services, or you could hire a standard vehicle.

When to visit
The best time to travel is from May to September, as this is outside the heavy summer- rainfall season. It is not advisable to explore the parks during the wet season (any time from October to April). At the same time, however, Nyika is littered with flowering orchids in September and October, and August to December are the best months for birders. September, then, is your best bet.

What to pack
Take the standard traveling pack - medical kit, torch, sun protection and film - but remember that curio-sellers are very happy to exchange their wares for clothes and shoes, and school children are desperate for pens and paper. There is often only one pen for a class of 30 pupils, so if you do take photographs of children, payment of a pen will be much appreciated.

What to bring back
Wooden carvings and curios are excellent value, and commissions can be given for anything from chessboards to chairs. However, bear in mind that forests are being chopped down, partly to accommodate this home industry. If the prices were higher, less might need to be sold and, therefore, fewer trees would need to be chopped down. Prices are currently outrageously low - and tourists still haggle!

Where to stay
Chelinda Camp in Nyika National Park offers self-catering cottages or full-board rooms, with a restaurant and bar. The campsite in the forest is very basic and you need to bring all your own supplies - there are lock-up cupboards to protect your food from scavenging hyaenas, but if you are cycling, be sure to safeguard your tires from hyaena teeth by tying your bike in a tree.

Mvuu Wilderness Lodge and Camp in Liwonde National Park consists of five luxury tents, the honeymoon tent being one of the best in the region. The tents are all en suite, each with a private balcony overlooking the river. Meals are elaborate affairs under the stars and around bomas. The camp has double cabins as well as camping amenities, with a restaurant or self-catering facilities.

Remember, however, that distances between the national parks are vast, although there are a number of sound overnight options en route: Chintheche Inn on the northern lakeshore is the perfect setting at which to stop before attempting the road up to Nyika. The rooms are on a private beach, with plenty of water activities, and the restaurant may well be the best in Malawi.

Highlights
Horse safaris and night drives in the national parks. Watching the sun rise to the sounds of fish eagles at the camps of Kayak Africa. Hearing local legends while floating down the crocodile- and hippo-infested waters of the Shire River in Liwonde National Park.

Lowlights
The bad roads mean that even short distances take many hours of bumpy driving. Tourists haggling over the prices of curios - curio-sellers should be seen as artists, and their wares and ideas respected. A price lowered by a few cents in Western terms could mean the loss of a meal for a whole family.

Malawi Reading
Africa’s Warm Heart
Liwonde National Park
Birding in Malawi

Malawi Holiday Inquiry